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Author Topic: uh, trying to remember about converting an image to printer profile...  (Read 1825 times)

sgwrx

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i'm trying to remember what i learned about this a long time ago... but can't seem to find anything that exactly backs up what i think i remember...

i can take an image from raw converter which is in aRGB or ProPhoto, then convert that image to my printer paper (custom or canned) profile color space, then adjust for color saturation and what not.  for example crank up the saturation on an adjustment layer.

the point being, i don't have to worry about printing colors my printer can't print (OOG), yet i can still get saturation if i want really strong color saturated print.

i've been printing printer test images lately and gone through different combinations of printing direct from ProPhoto color space, converting to other color spaces, trying to adjust OOG colors via layers etc... desaturating.. all that jazz.

but i think i was starting to go down a rabit hole and make it more complicated than what i need :)

if i want a really saturated print, my options are:

1. you get what you get when you saturate the image in what ever profile you've chosen to use & Perceptual vs Rel Col. - example, a black to green gradient has a definite transition from out of gamut to in gamut

2. try to desaturate or darken/lighten colors that are OOG and see how it looks over all

3. change an image to the printer profile and adjust away happily ever after!

i know there's things i read about just this last option but i just can't seem to find them on the interwebs?  digitaldog maybe?

thanks,



EDIT: i mean, there's no cheating right?  you can't print what you can't print! haha.  you can only enhance colors to the point of being OOG, you lose some and gain some... the overall end game is to get colors to where you want them in the overall experience of the print.

ha. i think i'm getting my memory back :)

« Last Edit: September 13, 2017, 10:32:59 pm by sgwrx »
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Wayne Fox

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Re: uh, trying to remember about converting an image to printer profile...
« Reply #1 on: September 14, 2017, 02:24:07 pm »

Basically you are talking about soft proofing, which can be done quite a bit easier using the tools in PS or LR.  The problem with converting the image to the printer space then tweaking it is you are still making judgements on a third device (the display) which is remapping colors to it’s gamut, some of which the display cannot show but the image can contain and the printer can print. This means you are trusting the color management system in regards to handling the display, but distrusting it when it comes time to print? Of course this also applies to soft proofing.  I’ve known a few people who are soft proofing savants (Jeff Schewe comes to mind), but the vast majority of  those who try it just mess their image up and end up with banding or other issues.

The other issue is once you convert it to the printer space, you need to send it to the printer without any further color management, which can be difficult to nearly impossible with current OS’s.

I know it sounds simplistic, but the main purpose of Color management is to remap colors to various output devices and maintain as close as possible a visual match despite different gamuts and characteristics. If you have a good display, well calibrated and profiled, and a good output device that is well profiled the results should be excellent without jumping through any real hoops. The color management system will deal with the different gamuts.

Soft proofing to me has evolved to a simple tool to decide which rendering intent best suits the image i’m getting ready to print (relative or perceptual).  On almost all images the differences are subtle enough that either would work fine, but I do find an occasional image where the difference is substantial enough to be a factor.
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sgwrx

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Re: uh, trying to remember about converting an image to printer profile...
« Reply #2 on: September 14, 2017, 03:24:56 pm »


The other issue is once you convert it to the printer space, you need to send it to the printer without any further color management, which can be difficult to nearly impossible with current OS’s.


Ah, forgot about that.  What was so intriguing to me was that i could just convert it and never have to worry about OOG no matter what adjustments i did.

Really all we can do is bump up saturation (if that's what we want) and either deal with OOG to a point in each part of the image, or just let the translation do it's thing.

I have been able to soft proof and make adjustment layers to compensate for things though, and that seems the best overall approach.  do a separate set of adjustment layers for printing vs. onscreen - if needed.

I suppose a new printer with the ability to print more saturated colors.

thanks,
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dgberg

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Re: uh, trying to remember about converting an image to printer profile...
« Reply #3 on: September 14, 2017, 04:18:12 pm »

What printer do you have?

Garnick

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Re: uh, trying to remember about converting an image to printer profile...
« Reply #4 on: September 14, 2017, 05:15:46 pm »

You have already received some very valuable advice, but I will chime in to perhaps add something of value myself hopefully.  First of all, the vast majority of the printing I do is for customers who bring in or send image files of all flavours.  For that reason, most of my work is done in PS, since I find that I my PS workflow for that type of work is considerably faster than what LR can do for me.  The variety of work and the flow seems to fit PS more than LR for my purposes, although LR certainly has its pluses.  I would guess that perhaps roughly half of the images I print have been soft proofed.  My first step of course is to create a duplicate image for reference and then try to match it as closely as possible on the soft proofed image.  As a general statement I would say that the images that I would soft proof are the ones that I know will likely present more problems if not soft proofed.  However, soft proofed or not, I always run a test strip of a slice of the image that is most indicative of the full image.  From that I can make more adjustments and perhaps run another small test strip or two to get me as close as possible to what I need to see in the final print.  Once I have reached the final print stage I discard the duplicate image and save the printed image file with the adjustment layers as usual.  If I have used ouput sharpening(Photokit) I also leave a notation with the file as a reminder in case of reorders.  If soft proofing is used correctly and sparingly it can provide a good place to start, but I would never print a full image based solely on the soft proof, especially when printing on Matte papers or canvas.  For such papers I find soft proofing to be next to useless.  I work strictly with Epson Wide Format Printers, so I cannot offer any sort of advice or opinion on how well the other brands handle soft proofing. 

Gary                   
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sgwrx

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Re: uh, trying to remember about converting an image to printer profile...
« Reply #5 on: September 14, 2017, 09:14:16 pm »

thanks for the replies so far.  i have an epson 3380 that is just over 2 years old now i think, i got it to replace an r2400 that died.  i have been printing every week, mostly (you guys are going to think i'm crazy) on epson glossy or luster, and it's a test image from andrew's site i believe.  big grey microscopic balls or whatever in the middle, some red strawberries on the right and nice color gradients.  i know this is probably the worst image to mess around with saturation as it comes with large gamut and large range of extreme colors (the gradients).

as i have been doing these test prints, i kept thinking i wish i could get more saturation. that turned into what's the best way to get more saturation.  i have a custom paper profile for 1 paper - the baryta photographique from canson.  but, i'm not printing on that paper because it's a lot more expensive :)  mainly my weekly prints are just to keep the printer from getting dried out.

ANYWAY - as i've been playing around specifically with that image, i can bring OOG colors back into gamut with darkening and desaturating certain areas of the image, but in the long run it just seems like i'm back at an overall less saturated image.  meaning the top of the RGB and CMY gradients are pretty dull looking again as though i never oversaturated the image.

plus i'm finding that there are a lot of colors in that image that just aren't a strong suit of the 3880.  which i think can be said of many printers.

i have been able to get nice saturated strawberries, while the colors are not that much OOG, just a few gray patches here an there when i turn on photoshop's OOG warning.

captured images in the real world, for example i just shot a wedding for a friend not long ago, generally don't have a lot of OOG colors.  well, except for photos i shot of the couple in a garden where the yellows oranges reds and purples of the flowers were OOG.

so then i started thinking about all this again and forgot most of what i remember from the r2400 days.  and the bottom line again for me i think is, soft proof yes and try to make some small corrections.  but rely on photoshop's perceptual or rel. colormetric rendering to move things where they need to be because it's probably a lot more accurate than i can be.

and to just say something out loud mostly for my own benefit, Relative Colormetric will be a faithful print of colors that are within gamut, but those that are out of gamut are changed to fit.  Perceptual, with "crush" all colors that are out of gamut and in gamut, with some sort of calculated "curve".

so to me that means some photos which do not have many OOG colors are best printed (depending on previewing between the two) with Rel Col. some prints that have many OOG colors could be better printed with perceptual.

but then, i get back to trying to oversaturate... where it may push more and more colors OOG... so that's when i started thinking about what best to do there.

as another example, i have a photo of a diner on a street.  the diner is white stucco, the building next to it has old world orange/red brick and there is a bright blue sign with neon red light.  when i crank up the saturation of the photo, the bright blue sign (never mind the neon tubing) and orange/red brick get way out of gamut.  so then what do i do?  well, i desaturated and darkened those area a bit.  the overall photo still seems good, but the blue sign and orange/red brick are a little disappointedly less saturated.  in fact, i'll attach that photo here - in it's "unsaturated" form in ProPhoto tagged image made small.

i know it's pretty saturated now, but if i were going to do some crazy color abstract...
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Wayne Fox

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Re: uh, trying to remember about converting an image to printer profile...
« Reply #6 on: September 15, 2017, 12:14:57 am »

If a color is out of gamut, the CMS will push the color to the gamut of the output device. Basically this means the color is at the limit the device can produce. If you use relative intent, OOG colors are clipped to that maximum value.  If you use perceptual, it slides all the colors so the relationship between colors remain similar.  I don't know how you force the printer to print a color more saturation than it is cable of printing, seems a good profile will provide the best it can do scenario. you may be able to tweak the image so it "appears" to have more saturation, but it just seems unnecessary.

If an image lacks saturation, I suppose there could be several issues from the post processing to the viewing station lighting.  But trying to worry about what colors are OOG, especially using PS's worthless OOG indicator is a rabbit hole that is probably not worth climbing down.

I'm not sure of the image you describe  there are several out there. Bill Atkinson did the most well known one many years ago, Andrew has one, my favorite is Jack Fleshers on OutbackPhoto.com who combines some of the better images from the original Bill Atkinson evaluation target with a couple of new ones as well as some useful squares.  (http://www.outbackphoto.com/printinginsights/pi048/essay.html)  He talks about how he uses the target here ... http://www.outbackphoto.com/printinginsights/pi048/essay.html. (This sort of sounds like the one you are working with. )  Bill also did a couple of targets of gradient balls, I think he called them 14 balls and 28 balls, but they never look good printed and I believe were designed to expose problematic profiles, not to evaluate the profiles or the printer results.

If you are printing Outbackphoto.com's target and are not getting good results, something is wrong.  You shouldn't have to do anything to get great colors and good results with a 3880. If you are getting good results with the target, but not with your own work then reviewing the color management workflow and checking all your parameters would be something worth pursuing.
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Alan Goldhammer

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Re: uh, trying to remember about converting an image to printer profile...
« Reply #7 on: September 15, 2017, 07:25:49 am »

I'm not sure of the image you describe  there are several out there. Bill Atkinson did the most well known one many years ago, Andrew has one, my favorite is Jack Fleshers on OutbackPhoto.com who combines some of the better images from the original Bill Atkinson evaluation target with a couple of new ones as well as some useful squares.  (http://www.outbackphoto.com/printinginsights/pi048/essay.html)  He talks about how he uses the target here ... http://www.outbackphoto.com/printinginsights/pi048/essay.html. (This sort of sounds like the one you are working with. )  Bill also did a couple of targets of gradient balls, I think he called them 14 balls and 28 balls, but they never look good printed and I believe were designed to expose problematic profiles, not to evaluate the profiles or the printer results.

If you are printing Outbackphoto.com's target and are not getting good results, something is wrong.  You shouldn't have to do anything to get great colors and good results with a 3880. If you are getting good results with the target, but not with your own work then reviewing the color management workflow and checking all your parameters would be something worth pursuing.
I second this.  Any time I have a new paper to profile, this is the go to image for testing purposes.
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digitaldog

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Re: uh, trying to remember about converting an image to printer profile...
« Reply #8 on: September 15, 2017, 10:37:13 am »

i'm trying to remember what i learned about this a long time ago... but can't seem to find anything that exactly backs up what i think i remember...

i can take an image from raw converter which is in aRGB or ProPhoto, then convert that image to my printer paper (custom or canned) profile color space, then adjust for color saturation and what not.  for example crank up the saturation on an adjustment layer.

the point being, i don't have to worry about printing colors my printer can't print (OOG), yet i can still get saturation if i want really strong color saturated print.

i've been printing printer test images lately and gone through different combinations of printing direct from ProPhoto color space, converting to other color spaces, trying to adjust OOG colors via layers etc... desaturating.. all that jazz.

but i think i was starting to go down a rabit hole and make it more complicated than what i need :)

if i want a really saturated print, my options are:

1. you get what you get when you saturate the image in what ever profile you've chosen to use & Perceptual vs Rel Col. - example, a black to green gradient has a definite transition from out of gamut to in gamut

2. try to desaturate or darken/lighten colors that are OOG and see how it looks over all

3. change an image to the printer profile and adjust away happily ever after!

i know there's things i read about just this last option but i just can't seem to find them on the interwebs?  digitaldog maybe?


http://digitaldog.net/files/LR4_softproof2.mov


http://digitaldog.net/files/HowToEditSoftProof.pdf


And forget the out of gamut overlay; mostly useless:



The Out Of Gamut Overlay in Photoshop and Lightroom

In this 25 minute video, I'll cover everything you need to know about the Out Of Gamut (OOG) overlay in Photoshop and Lightroom. You'll see why, with a rare exception, you can ignore this very old feature and still deal with out of gamut colors using modern color management tools.

YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00O-GTDyL0w
High resolution: http://digitaldog.net/files/OOG_Video.mp4
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sgwrx

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Re: uh, trying to remember about converting an image to printer profile...
« Reply #9 on: September 15, 2017, 10:16:20 pm »

the test print i use is the top image on the outbackphoto link.

andrew thanks for the links!

before i research more/watch the videos etc... i  thought i'd be clever:  i went from ProPhoto to EpsonLuster then cranked up the saturation +30 +40 on the HSL adjustment layer, then coverted to sRGB and the results well, are definitely not what i was thinking although not bad.

next i confirmed the thought that i had, that most of my "real world" photos don't present too much of a problem even when the saturation is added - i mean that they generally satisfy my idea of being more saturated.  i have had photos in the past with deep rich yellows (like on an old WWII war bird aircraft) being wacky. or the bright rich reds of a shirt... all in direct sunlight.  heck, even a yellow race car.  i remember once asking myself "how do you print or even adjust yellow for viewing onscreen?".  seems that yellow has to be darkened.

anyway.  i feel like i'm back on track now - thanks!
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sgwrx

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Re: uh, trying to remember about converting an image to printer profile...
« Reply #10 on: September 16, 2017, 12:24:16 am »

andrew (or anyone else), in your video you bring look at the test print and see that there is a lack of detail in the very saturated pink fabric.  you then bring some detail back by desaturating it.  is a lack of detail always the result of having an oversaturated color?  i'm not sure if i'm asking this correctly?

i've also noticed that in one of my images that i'm revisiting, when i use a levels adjustment layer in PS, i hold down the alt key and adjust the right slider to the left, i see a representation of clipping or something, but also notice a lack of detail in one particular spot when the clipping is higher and more detail when the clipping is lower.

i notice that too when i'm at work use adobe camera raw, there is a similar thing that shows when you are clipping the highlights by holding down the alt key and dragging slider for exposure or white etc..

so oversaturation must just be one "thing" that can kill detail and highlights/exposure can be another "thing" that does it.

i suppose in the camera, if it's over exposed, it's clipping too.
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