It's also fairly easy to wrap cotton papers around the corners of masonite panels.
To hugely simplify, get the back of an oversized print wet with water diluted PVA glue, wait a few minutes for the paper to soften, put the panel down in the center of the print, press hard, wrap the flaps around the back, then start burnishing down both front and back until everything sticks. The back flaps take some coaxing, it helps to add undiluted glue to the flaps.
I have done this occasionally with Pura Velvet. Before gluing I give the face of the unmounted print a thin sealer coat of diluted Minwax Polycrylic so I can wipe off errant glue blobs with a wet towel while retaining some flexibility in the print, then one or more final coats after mounting when the glue is dry. You must mount the print within a 1/2 hour or so of applying that first thin Polycrylic coat when the paint is just barely past the tacky stage but still soft, otherwise you will get cracks. In addition to having excellent transparency, Polycrylic creates a positively bulletproof surface that is far harder than any canvas varnish I have ever used. This is an excellent presentation for high abrasion, finger-pokey, fingernail-scratching environments such as public corridors, restaurants, hospitals, etc. You can even use aggressive solvents to clean off graffiti.
I apply all Polycrylic coats with an HVLP gun, but I think rolling or brushing would also be OK as long as the first coat is applied fast enough to remain flexible while the flaps are folded. I roll on the dilute PVA.
I have noticed no potato chip effects on my oldest panels.
