Having run a business that does this for people, I have probably done more lens/camera focus tuning than 99.99% of the photographers on the planet. The answer to your question is "it depends".
If you are a Nikon user - most definitely! It is very rare for a Nikon lens and Nikon body to be perfectly optimized at a zero setting and the probability of any third party lens requiring a zero offset is zero! Some combinations are especially bad like the Nikon 500mm f/4G VR (not the newer E lens) with any Nikon 1.4x TC - there is a 40% probability that the amount of tuning required falls outside of the tunable range. This is based on over 400 calibrations of that combination.
If you are a Canon user - if you are using the latest lenses with the latest bodies - basically 1Dx/5D3 or later and the generation 2 and 3 lenses, more often than not there is little to be gained as offsets are typicall within 1 or 2 points of zero or at zero. But put an older lens or a third party lens on or use an older teleconverter or body then you are in the same boat as Nikon - everything needs some amount of adjustment. The Canon 300mm f/2.8 lenses prior to the IS models are especially bad needing, in general 15 points or so of adjustment. There is no Canon combination that I have run across that can not be calibrated within the tuning window - if you have such a combo, there is something physically wrong, likely with the lens.
It is also important to note that there are many variables which can shift the optimum tuning point including ambient temperature and the light source being used. I do all of my tunings with a full spectrum light source but if you only use your gear in a studio with LED panels than I would do the calibration that way as there is likely a slight shift.
Another thing to note is that Nikon, in their latest bodies, builds in an auto focus tuning feature - it does not work very well and is all over the place. take 10 different samples and you will likely get 10 different answers , some wildly different from others. If you are going to do it this way, take many readings and throw out the obvious outliers and then average the rest.
One other thing, after reading the f/1.4 comment right above my post - if you calibrate a fast prime like an f/1.4 lens at f/1.4, it is likely to be off at smaller apertures. Fast primes tend to have significant focus shift as you stop down. For a landscape photographer using fast primes I recommend doing the cal at f/2.8, for portrait photographers at the aperture they are most likely to use. As an example, the very popular Sigma 35mm f/1.4 Art will have an offset value that is 5 points different at f/2.8 than it will at f/1.4.