For X-Trans raw files I've taken to either turning sharpening off in Lightroom or using something like Amount = 20, radius = .8, detail = 10, masking = 10. Then sharpening in Photoshop using Topaz Detail II.
I used to turn the detail up to about 80 for the X-T1, but a heavy use of that slider on the X-T2 files looks really nasty.
Yesterday I played with the demo version of long awaited Iridient X-Transformer. According to the website it "converts Fujifilm RAF images to DNG format using Iridient Digital's high quality RAW processing algorithms".
Initially the program wouldn't show the settings options in the main window. The culprit turned out to be the fact that I'd set the display in Windows 7 to show text and other items at 125%. Re-setting it to the default of 100% solved the issue. Now I have to lean closer to the screen to see what I'm doing.
This is not a review, but some observations after working on this photo (taken hand held and not intended as a test image):
Here is a crop comparing the dng from Iridient (sharpening set to low) on the left and Lightroom on the right with the above develop settings:
I'm interested in detail more than sharpness, and to be fair need to follow my usual workflow for X-trans files an run the Lightroom image through Topaz Detail. Here is a comparison with the same image from Iridient on the left and the Lightroom version on the right after being run through Topaz:
Now the version on the right now looks a little sharper, but on close examination I don't think it holds more detail. Furthermore, some edges have visible staircase artefacts that are not so apparent on the file from Iridient. Either Topaz or Lightroom seem to be more aggressive on edges.
Finally here on the left is the version from Iridient with sharpening set to medium and the same file above from Topaz:
I don't know what shows up on your screen, but on mine the grass in particular from the Iridient file looks more natural and the raw conversion seems to be better at avoiding "staircase" artefacts. The tree roots on the right are not sharper, but have more contrast. That is easy to adjust in Photoshop.
I tried putting the Iridient conversion with low sharpening through Topaz Detail, but really all the detail had already been drawn out, and there wasn't enough improvement to my eyes. The best version of all came from brushing in a little Photokit sharpener.
I don't think one raw processor can do everything, and I usually have two or three to use depending on the subject matter.
And this is still very much beta software. Assessing it in its current state, my conclusion is to reach for my credit card and purchase a licence. Bother, it's good.