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Author Topic: Optimizing print sharpness using Qimage  (Read 7015 times)

Damon Lynch

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Optimizing print sharpness using Qimage
« on: December 30, 2016, 03:59:11 pm »

I'm new to Qimage. I want to use it to optimise print sharpness. For the purposes of discussion, let's assume the image to be printed has carefully gone through the following workflow, maximizing sharpness:
  • Capture sharpening with Piccure+, Topaz InFocus or Lightroom
  • Image adjustment with a combination of Lightroom, Topaz Detail, Topaz Clarity, and Nik Color Efex's Pro Contrast
What Qimage's sharpening setting do you experienced Qimage users tend to use? Do you tend to use the same setting for almost all images, or vary it by what image you're printing and what paper you're printing on?

For an upcoming project I'm going to be printing a bunch of colour prints on 12"x12" (30.5cm x 30.5cm) Hahnemuhle Photo Rag Pearl using a Canon Pro-1000. Most pics will be from an 18 megapixel camera, the Canon 1D X. Given the square format, some will be crops of vertical images--hardly ideal, but such is life.
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Denis de Gannes

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Re: Optimizing print sharpness using Qimage
« Reply #1 on: December 30, 2016, 04:56:20 pm »

The link below is to the video tutorials on Qimage Ultimate. There is one there that explains the Deep Focus Sharpening available in Qimage. This is a creative sharpening feature.

With Qimage when you send an image to print at a particular size Qimage will automatically upsize the data being sent to the printer driver (this is all done non-destructively) and the original image file is not changed. Depending to the amount of resizing done you can then select the amount "print sharpening" to be applied or allow Qimage to apply it automatically.

http://www.ddisoftware.com/qimage-u/learn.htm

The screen capture shows the dialog box for choosing the print sharpening.
« Last Edit: December 30, 2016, 05:27:34 pm by Denis de Gannes »
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Bart_van_der_Wolf

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Re: Optimizing print sharpness using Qimage
« Reply #2 on: December 30, 2016, 05:14:45 pm »

I'm new to Qimage. I want to use it to optimise print sharpness. For the purposes of discussion, let's assume the image to be printed has carefully gone through the following workflow, maximizing sharpness:
  • Capture sharpening with Piccure+, Topaz InFocus or Lightroom
  • Image adjustment with a combination of Lightroom, Topaz Detail, Topaz Clarity, and Nik Color Efex's Pro Contrast
What Qimage's sharpening setting do you experienced Qimage users tend to use? Do you tend to use the same setting for almost all images, or vary it by what image you're printing and what paper you're printing on?

Hi Damon,

Qimage's Smart Sharpening attempts to preserve the sharpness of the original, regardless of the output size. By using the DFS sharpening method, you'll be guaranteed to not introduce halos, even at large output sizes. The default amount (5) of output sharpening is usually pretty good in doing that, but some media suffer from ink diffusion and might benefit from a higher setting. Besides that, one might do more than preserving sharpness despite the resampling. One might use higher settings to add even more punch than the original, or (less likely) use a bit less to deliberately take the edge of things. How that works out in the final print is highly subject dependent.

Quote
For an upcoming project I'm going to be printing a bunch of colour prints on 12"x12" (30.5cm x 30.5cm) Hahnemuhle Photo Rag Pearl using a Canon Pro-1000. Most pics will be from an 18 megapixel camera, the Canon 1D X. Given the square format, some will be crops of vertical images--hardly ideal, but such is life.

At what will work out to be something like 288 PPI, the results will be excellent (after QU resamples to 600 PPI and sharpens that) and Qimage will not even have to work that hard. The Hybrid SE interpolation method will avoid halos all together, Fusion might enhance some edge detail, but at 600 PPI that might even be hard to notice. DFS Smart output sharpening might be tried at a notch above the default amount of 5, maybe 6-7 or so if the subject tolerates that. The paper should not require much compensation, so it's more a matter of taste.

Qimage can also print test strips, smaller crops from the image, so you can print several versions with different (sharpening) settings on the same (smaller) sheet of paper, which can then visually be compared at the intended viewing distance for the larger prints. Here's a video about that Test Strip feature.

Cheers,
Bart
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John Hollenberg

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Re: Optimizing print sharpness using Qimage
« Reply #3 on: December 30, 2016, 05:36:02 pm »


Qimage's Smart Sharpening attempts to preserve the sharpness of the original, regardless of the output size. By using the DFS sharpening method, you'll be guaranteed to not introduce halos, even at large output sizes. The default amount (5) of output sharpening is usually pretty good in doing that, but some media suffer from ink diffusion and might benefit from a higher setting. Besides that, one might do more than preserving sharpness despite the resampling. One might use higher settings to add even more punch than the original, or (less likely) use a bit less to deliberately take the edge of things. How that works out in the final print is highly subject dependent.

I have been reasonably satisfied printing from Lightroom.  Does Qimage offer improvements over LR output sharpening and printing?
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deanwork

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Re: Optimizing print sharpness using Qimage
« Reply #4 on: December 30, 2016, 06:03:56 pm »

Yes, a lot more user control. It also works in conjunction with your usual printer driver so there is no need to deal with opening an already rasterized file in LR.

If you Like to print from Raw files LR's print module works great.

My workflow has always involved tweaking dozens of different things in Photoshop after the essential adjustments in LR have been done. 

J



I have been reasonably satisfied printing from Lightroom.  Does Qimage offer improvements over LR output sharpening and printing?
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jrsforums

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Re: Optimizing print sharpness using Qimage
« Reply #5 on: December 30, 2016, 06:12:08 pm »

The final/smart print sharpening video is at:

https://www.youtube.com/embed/ulsHxq-K-l4

Please note that is is the older Qimage Ultimate UI, not the better current one
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Denis de Gannes

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Re: Optimizing print sharpness using Qimage
« Reply #6 on: December 30, 2016, 06:17:58 pm »

I have been reasonably satisfied printing from Lightroom.  Does Qimage offer improvements over LR output sharpening and printing?
John, printing qualities cannot be viewed on screen and the only way that you can decide which software produces the results that you are satisfied with is by printing test samples.
I have been using Qimage since 2003 for printing and continue to do so because Lightroom which was introduced in 2006 and which I use as my main raw processing software has not produced improved prints for me.
To match upsizing quality of Lightroom for printing you will have to purchase software like "Perfect resize" for this purpose.
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Denis de Gannes

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Re: Optimizing print sharpness using Qimage
« Reply #7 on: December 30, 2016, 06:25:44 pm »

The final/smart print sharpening video is at:

https://www.youtube.com/embed/ulsHxq-K-l4

Please note that is is the older Qimage Ultimate UI, not the better current one

Thanks for that link John.
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Bart_van_der_Wolf

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Re: Optimizing print sharpness using Qimage
« Reply #8 on: December 30, 2016, 07:45:10 pm »

I have been reasonably satisfied printing from Lightroom.  Does Qimage offer improvements over LR output sharpening and printing?

Hi John,

Yes it does, but the visible difference may be small for some images and more clearly visible with others.

As mentioned, QU offers more control and more convenience. Recalling prior print job settings for certain papers is much better, positioning much more predictable, it offers automatic nesting, and it can use dithering to avoid posterization in smooth gradients (especially important with large output sizes). Output sharpening can be much more finely controlled. It also has a non-destructive Image Editor which can be used to tweak the master print file, e.g. to open up shadows if a certain matte paper tends to block them compared to a glossy version.

Things like printing multiple sizes with identical looking quality of an image are simple, and memory management can be much better for large format output. It can print larger formats than the printer allows, by automatically dividing the image in a mosaic of smaller image tiles. It can help with unclogging of individual ink colors, or perform preventative maintenance (even unattended with a user adjustable time interval). It can use a hot folder to print whenever images are added there, even remotely if the PC can receive images from e.g. a mobile phone or remote laptop.

So there is more to printing than only output (sharpening) quality, which is excellent with QU. It has its own high-quality resampling algorithms and a halo free DFS output sharpening method to make sure of that.

Cheers,
Bart
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samueljohnchia

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Re: Optimizing print sharpness using Qimage
« Reply #9 on: December 31, 2016, 12:56:07 am »

The Hybrid SE interpolation method will avoid halos all together, Fusion might enhance some edge detail, but at 600 PPI that might even be hard to notice.

Hi Bart, I refer to an old post by yourself comparing various Qimage interpolators: http://forum.luminous-landscape.com/index.php?topic=74359.msg592516

You said then, 'They all produce halos to a certain extent, with the exception of PhotoZoom Pro.' I saved the examples that you put in the other thread, reproduced below:




Indeed the Qimage interpolation options all produce halos, and rather wide yet soft halos at that, which would only get more obvious after sharpening. PZP Pro is outstanding with no halos. I wonder if Hybrid SE interpolation has changed since 2013 and the earlier examples are no longer valid? Thanks!
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Bart_van_der_Wolf

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Re: Optimizing print sharpness using Qimage
« Reply #10 on: December 31, 2016, 07:14:17 am »

Hi Bart, I refer to an old post by yourself comparing various Qimage interpolators: http://forum.luminous-landscape.com/index.php?topic=74359.msg592516

You said then, 'They all produce halos to a certain extent, with the exception of PhotoZoom Pro.' I saved the examples that you put in the other thread, reproduced below:




Indeed the Qimage interpolation options all produce halos, and rather wide yet soft halos at that, which would only get more obvious after sharpening. PZP Pro is outstanding with no halos. I wonder if Hybrid SE interpolation has changed since 2013 and the earlier examples are no longer valid? Thanks!

Hi Samuel,

Excellent, thanks for adding this. Do remember that we are looking at 300% upsampled edge detail, zoomed to 400%. So when you look at those edges at 25%, you'll see what it looks like on a low PPI device like most of our displays. With a 600 or 720 PPI printer, the halos will probably be impossible to spot unless a lot of sharpening was added.

As you can see, the Hybrid SE interpolation is striking a very good balance between maintaining sharpness and avoiding 'clearly visible' halo artifacts. How clearly visible, depends on the length of one's nose... It would be best at surviving additional Output sharpening, especially if that doesn't add halos of itself. The 'Fusion' resampling method is more aggressive, but a bit less stairstepped compared to the PS Bicubics. PhotoZoom Pro invents new detail, and does so very convincingly, but that requires a more convoluted workflow and produces a huge file for printing, something that Qimage does on-the-fly based on the original sized image input.

The results shown, are before applying DFS sharpening (or other output sharpening methods) which will not add new halos, but may enhance those halos that are there already. Hybrid SE, which has not changed since, probably offers the more robust basis, although it may need a bit more DFS sharpening than e.g. Fusion does to achieve the same punch.

So depending on image content and output magnification, Fusion with a Default Smart sharpening amount may be all you need, or Hybrid SE with a slightly higher amount setting.

Image content is very important in making these choices/decisions. Very high edge contrast against smooth backgrounds, like e.g. roof edges and power lines, needs more care and thus require Hybrid SE interpolation, and landscape shots with lots of foliage and lower contrast rock/soil detail may benefit from Fusion interpolation. They will all benefit from halo-free DFS sharpening, which is a very clever invention by Mike Chaney, the author of Qimage.

Cheers,
Bart
« Last Edit: December 31, 2016, 07:22:11 am by BartvanderWolf »
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samueljohnchia

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Re: Optimizing print sharpness using Qimage
« Reply #11 on: December 31, 2016, 08:10:27 am »

Hi Samuel,

Excellent, thanks for adding this. Do remember that we are looking at 300% upsampled edge detail, zoomed to 400%. So when you look at those edges at 25%, you'll see what it looks like on a low PPI device like most of our displays. With a 600 or 720 PPI printer, the halos will probably be impossible to spot unless a lot of sharpening was added.

As you can see, the Hybrid SE interpolation is striking a very good balance between maintaining sharpness and avoiding 'clearly visible' halo artifacts. How clearly visible, depends on the length of one's nose... It would be best at surviving additional Output sharpening, especially if that doesn't add halos of itself. The 'Fusion' resampling method is more aggressive, but a bit less stairstepped compared to the PS Bicubics. PhotoZoom Pro invents new detail, and does so very convincingly, but that requires a more convoluted workflow and produces a huge file for printing, something that Qimage does on-the-fly based on the original sized image input.

The results shown, are before applying DFS sharpening (or other output sharpening methods) which will not add new halos, but may enhance those halos that are there already. Hybrid SE, which has not changed since, probably offers the more robust basis, although it may need a bit more DFS sharpening than e.g. Fusion does to achieve the same punch.

So depending on image content and output magnification, Fusion with a Default Smart sharpening amount may be all you need, or Hybrid SE with a slightly higher amount setting.

Image content is very important in making these choices/decisions. Very high edge contrast against smooth backgrounds, like e.g. roof edges and power lines, needs more care and thus require Hybrid SE interpolation, and landscape shots with lots of foliage and lower contrast rock/soil detail may benefit from Fusion interpolation. They will all benefit from halo-free DFS sharpening, which is a very clever invention by Mike Chaney, the author of Qimage.

Cheers,
Bart

Thanks Bart for clarifying and the additional info. I counted a 11-12 pixel wide halo/edge in the Hybrid SE example, while Fusion is 17-18 pixels wide. The halos are extremely obvious at 25%, and quite hideous actually. I can still see them at 12.5% on my 100ppi display. Qimage interpolators create something of a ringing effect - there is the typical dark halo on the darker side of the edge, but past that there is a lighter halo. Very weird. I find that a 4-5 pixel halo with proper sharpening to be already too much when printing at 600ppi on my Canon. In addition, it does not seem as if it is possible to sharpen up those Qimage edges to the level of the PZP edge. Looks like Qimage interpolation will not be good enough for me, unfortunately.

At the moment, I am using Topaz Detail for my output sharpening, which also does not produce halos, on your most excellent recommendations in other threads. It is very, very good. I've not had the chance to compare it to DFS. Are there any quality advantages to DFS?
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Rado

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Re: Optimizing print sharpness using Qimage
« Reply #12 on: January 01, 2017, 10:40:42 am »

The problem with adding grain to an image is it's resolution dependent which means you really need to do it after you've set your image size and output resolution. It would be great of ACR/LR allowed one to add grain AFTER spewing the print size and rez (hum, maybe something to ask for) but the only way to do it in Photoshop is AFTER you have your final size/rez set–and that holds true for any 3rd party grain maker. Any resampling kills the grain structure :~(

This was discussed in the B/W subforum. What are my options if I wanted to combine printing with Qimage (for its resampling&sharpening) and adding grain with some 3rd party tools/plugins? It makes sense that the grain should be added only as the last step before printing, but how do I make it happen? Can Qimage be used just to resample&sharpen a file on the disk? I could then open it in Photoshop, add noise and send it back to Qimage...
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Bart_van_der_Wolf

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Re: Optimizing print sharpness using Qimage
« Reply #13 on: January 01, 2017, 11:44:57 am »

This was discussed in the B/W subforum. What are my options if I wanted to combine printing with Qimage (for its resampling&sharpening) and adding grain with some 3rd party tools/plugins? It makes sense that the grain should be added only as the last step before printing, but how do I make it happen?

Hi,

One could debate if it makes sense ...

What happens when you enlarge a negative optically? The grain structure gets enlarged as well. It thus scales based on the film format used. A 35mm negative needs more enlargement than a 6x6cm negative, and it shows in the resulting graininess of same sized output. That's also why TrueGrain has different film size options.

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Can Qimage be used just to resample&sharpen a file on the disk?

Yes, Qimage can print to file (instead of a printer). That's useful if you use an off-site printer, or for the type of experiment you are considering. It also allows to pixel-peep the data that would get sent to the printer.

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I could then open it in Photoshop, add noise and send it back to Qimage...

Do keep an eye on file size though. If you use Qimage to print to file, then it will resample to the selected printer's native PPI setting, which can result in huge files (even though they will be in 8-bit/channel mode). With normal printing, Qimage only generates that as a temporary intermediate on-the-fly file that gets spooled in chunks to the printer driver (to reduce memory overflow issues).

Cheers,
Bart
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Bart_van_der_Wolf

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Re: Optimizing print sharpness using Qimage
« Reply #14 on: January 01, 2017, 12:13:41 pm »

Thanks Bart for clarifying and the additional info. I counted a 11-12 pixel wide halo/edge in the Hybrid SE example, while Fusion is 17-18 pixels wide. The halos are extremely obvious at 25%, and quite hideous actually. I can still see them at 12.5% on my 100ppi display. Qimage interpolators create something of a ringing effect - there is the typical dark halo on the darker side of the edge, but past that there is a lighter halo. Very weird. I find that a 4-5 pixel halo with proper sharpening to be already too much when printing at 600ppi on my Canon. In addition, it does not seem as if it is possible to sharpen up those Qimage edges to the level of the PZP edge. Looks like Qimage interpolation will not be good enough for me, unfortunately.

Samuel, do make sure to watch the file data at the actually printed dimensions. Even at 25% zoom, it may be up to 7x larger than printed. Some halos can be visually beneficial in print which loses detail, and invisible at slightly larger viewing distance. But there is always a possibility to improve the output quality further, by using a more complex workflow. But for a very good trade-off between convenience/speed/quality, it's hard to beat Qimage.

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At the moment, I am using Topaz Detail for my output sharpening, which also does not produce halos, on your most excellent recommendations in other threads. It is very, very good.

Yes, 'Detail' rocks for Creative 'sharpening', but also for Output sharpening (although maybe a bit slow for very large output).

Quote
I've not had the chance to compare it to DFS. Are there any quality advantages to DFS?

DFS is basically USM without the halos (which is an impressive innovation, don't get me wrong), so it is very well suited for 'Smart' output sharpening that gives different sized output the same impression of sharpness. 'Detail' allows to push the limits of a specific upsampled size output file. So that might produce slightly different impressions of sharpness, because of the different number of pixels to work with.

DFS by itself is impressive as a convenient tool because it has a significant effect on how sharp the output looks, and it will produce exactly the same results for subsequent prints (repeat orders or replacement prints) that are produced at a later date, and it is fast.

Cheers,
Bart
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samueljohnchia

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Re: Optimizing print sharpness using Qimage
« Reply #15 on: January 01, 2017, 09:36:25 pm »

Samuel, do make sure to watch the file data at the actually printed dimensions. Even at 25% zoom, it may be up to 7x larger than printed. Some halos can be visually beneficial in print which loses detail, and invisible at slightly larger viewing distance. But there is always a possibility to improve the output quality further, by using a more complex workflow. But for a very good trade-off between convenience/speed/quality, it's hard to beat Qimage.

Thanks Bart for the additional information and advise. As is so often with these things, one needs to try it out for oneself. I went ahead and downloaded the 14 day trial for Qimage Ultimate, and proceeded to make some comparisons and prints. Indeed, Fusion, Hybrid and Hybrid SE are all significantly softer than PZP or Resize on close inspection, but for small amounts of upsampling, the visual differences in print are small. By the same, the differences between Qimage's interpolators and Photoshop's bicubic are small too. I am interested in getting the best quality out of my images, 'almost there' just isn't good enough.

Regarding the speed of Qimage, I am left befuddled. The trial version is x86, so I get memory issues when trying to work on large files to test Qimage's powers with huge data volume. But even with relatively small file size (the test file I used was 7400x9516), saving out a TIFF took 53 seconds and DFS took 56 seconds to run. In comparison, Photoshop saves the same file in less than 1 second, and Topaz Detail took less than 2 seconds after hitting the OK button (not counting the pre-processing at the initial launch stage). I don't know if the paid version is any better in this regard. If it isn't, it would be very frustrating for me to use. The user interface could also use some re-designing. The font sizes are comically too large. It was a bit frustrating that one can only resize based on pixel values when editing a single image. One cannot set the output size and ppi and the software determine the actual pixel size. It also does not allow to resize the width independently from the height - the aspect ratio is locked.

Quote
DFS is basically USM without the halos (which is an impressive innovation, don't get me wrong), so it is very well suited for 'Smart' output sharpening that gives different sized output the same impression of sharpness. 'Detail' allows to push the limits of a specific upsampled size output file. So that might produce slightly different impressions of sharpness, because of the different number of pixels to work with.

I took a good look at DFS. Actually DFS does produce halos, and they are quite wide and quite ugly. They are not obvious at 'normal' light handed settings, but the halos become very strong at high % settings, even when the radius is set to 1. I can easily make out the halos for Radius 1, 200% on screen, and I can just barely see the halos in a 600ppi print (image upsampled 400% by Fusion).

DFS has the tendency to lower the contrast of already low contrast detail. However, it is very good at avoiding sharpening and enhancing noise, which leads me to wonder if there is some kind of noise reduction going on too, which may explain why low contrast detail gets flattened. Fine textures are also smeared out by DFS, which results in a blotchy, plastic looking image. But - the edges of mid-high contrast detail is enhanced in a way that Topaz Detail cannot do. DFS does appear visually sharper in print for fine detail like twigs against sky albeit with some slight halos, but on textured surfaces like tree bark, it does not look as natural as the Topaz Detail rendering.

Topaz Detail is a totally different kind of sharpening. It seems to be more like a texture enhancement tool than a sharpening tool (one has to be careful about noise). It's more like Clarity but with a much smaller radius setting (I almost exclusively use small details settings in Topaz), and without the significant lightening or darkening of details on each side of the edge. Topaz Detail truly adds no halos even when the 'Small Details' setting is all the way up at 1.00.

I've long known about Qimage and have read many many good things about it. I'm just not sure if it really provides a leap of quality for my work. I hold anything you say in high regard, of course. Many recommendations and tips you have so generously provided have helped me tremendously to improve. I'm just not seeing this in Qimage at the moment.
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John Hollenberg

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Re: Optimizing print sharpness using Qimage
« Reply #16 on: January 02, 2017, 12:57:37 am »

What does "DFS" mean (it means nothing to me)?
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samueljohnchia

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Re: Optimizing print sharpness using Qimage
« Reply #17 on: January 02, 2017, 02:29:11 am »

What does "DFS" mean (it means nothing to me)?

Deep Focus Sharpening. Link
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Bart_van_der_Wolf

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Re: Optimizing print sharpness using Qimage
« Reply #18 on: January 02, 2017, 09:02:37 am »

Thanks Bart for the additional information and advise. As is so often with these things, one needs to try it out for oneself. I went ahead and downloaded the 14 day trial for Qimage Ultimate, and proceeded to make some comparisons and prints. Indeed, Fusion, Hybrid and Hybrid SE are all significantly softer than PZP or Resize on close inspection, but for small amounts of upsampling, the visual differences in print are small. By the same, the differences between Qimage's interpolators and Photoshop's bicubic are small too. I am interested in getting the best quality out of my images, 'almost there' just isn't good enough.

Hi Samuel,

Yes, the differences may be subtle at times, but a lot also depends on the subject matter. Sometimes the differences are more obvious than subtle. Of course, PZP and Perfect Resize can create even better upsampled result, as can Topaz Detail for detail enhancement, but these are specific image processing applications/plugins, not print management systems, and the results are (often large size) one-of's in a more involved workflow.

Mike Chaney has also said something to that effect, that Qimage may not produce the absolute best possible output, but produces by far the most convenient/consistent/repeatable high quality output hat usually leaves e.g. straight forward printing from Photoshop or other applications in the dust. This is often confirmed by new users of Qimage, they can clearly see the improvement compared to their e.g. Photoshop output. And in addition, QU adds a lot of print management workflow tools, including recalling prior printjobs and unclogging of single color channels, to name a couple.

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Regarding the speed of Qimage, I am left befuddled. The trial version is x86, so I get memory issues when trying to work on large files to test Qimage's powers with huge data volume. But even with relatively small file size (the test file I used was 7400x9516), saving out a TIFF took 53 seconds and DFS took 56 seconds to run.

Could you explain what was done exactly? When you say 'saving out a TIFF', is that upsampled? Also remember that 16-bit/channel data (and layers) is not absolutely necessary if you produce printed output. Qimage will (dither and) round to 8-b/ch anyway, to accommodate the printer driver. The dithering helps to visually smooth out potential quantization effects like posterization. You can also feed a highest-quality JPEG (with print-medium profile or a large colorspace) to Qimage, you'll be hard-pressed to see any difference in print. Qimage will do the resampling, sharpening, optional dithering, and finally the conversion to the output colorspace anyway.

And how did you determine the time DFS added (e.g. printed without and printed with DFS?)? Did you print to file, in which case Hard disk performance and Virus scanners can make a difference. Also make sure that you have (Edit>Preferences) Multithreading (Multi-Core processing) set to whatever works best on your system, and that Qimage isn't still building thumbnails in the background. Also memory fragmentation can play a role, which can be checked with holding down the Shift key when you click 'Help>Analyze Current Settings'. If the print file is larger than the largest contiguous memory block, then the Operating system has to manage memory, and maybe swap to disk. Remember that Print output files can become rather large, despite their single layer 8-b/ch data.

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In comparison, Photoshop saves the same file in less than 1 second, and Topaz Detail took less than 2 seconds after hitting the OK button (not counting the pre-processing at the initial launch stage). I don't know if the paid version is any better in this regard. If it isn't, it would be very frustrating for me to use.

Again, I do not know what we are comparing, so it's hard to comment on that. Doesn't Photoshop's Autosave play a role in this? And is the save time with or without resampling time? Qimage does everything at the same time, Resampling/Sharpening/Profile conversion/Dithering/anti-aliasing if down-sampling, and sending chunks to the Printer driver to avoid memory issues. I'm not so sure that there is less efficiency if you add up all the steps required to produce output, but maybe there is room for improvement, who knows? I'm sure Mike Chaney is willing to listen.

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I took a good look at DFS. Actually DFS does produce halos, and they are quite wide and quite ugly. They are not obvious at 'normal' light handed settings, but the halos become very strong at high % settings, even when the radius is set to 1. I can easily make out the halos for Radius 1, 200% on screen, and I can just barely see the halos in a 600ppi print (image upsampled 400% by Fusion).

That doesn't correspond with my tests, although we might interpret halos differently. Also make sure to view DFS separate from Resampling, which usually will produce a certain amount of halo (only something like a low contrast bi-linear resampling can avoid that, or special procedures like PZP uses).

If we take an abrupt change in image brightness between a uniform dark gray and a uniform light gray region, then sharpening that must enhance the edge contrast by lowering the dark gray values, and raising the light gray areas, otherwise it would not look 'sharper'. That's not really a halo, it's enhanced acutance, or edge contrast, there is no other way to give more acutance to such a transition.

On a slightly more gradual transition  (1 or more pixels) from darker to lighter one can use low amounts to reduce over/under-shoots , but they will not be very visually effective, and larger amounts may exaggerate the edge transition, but again that is simply the result of boosting acutance with a USM type of sharpening. DFS effectively suppresses that, but cannot (should not) eliminate the acutance boost, it just avoids the additional halo.
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DFS has the tendency to lower the contrast of already low contrast detail. However, it is very good at avoiding sharpening and enhancing noise, which leads me to wonder if there is some kind of noise reduction going on too, which may explain why low contrast detail gets flattened. Fine textures are also smeared out by DFS, which results in a blotchy, plastic looking image. But - the edges of mid-high contrast detail is enhanced in a way that Topaz Detail cannot do. DFS does appear visually sharper in print for fine detail like twigs against sky albeit with some slight halos, but on textured surfaces like tree bark, it does not look as natural as the Topaz Detail rendering.

Topaz detail is rather unique! But it is not a print mamagement application.

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Topaz Detail is a totally different kind of sharpening. It seems to be more like a texture enhancement tool than a sharpening tool (one has to be careful about noise).

Correct, besides the 'Deblur' slider control which performs deconvolution sharpening, it halo-free boosts spatial frequency detail. A negative Boost amount will reduce the amplification of graininess.

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It's more like Clarity but with a much smaller radius setting (I almost exclusively use small details settings in Topaz), and without the significant lightening or darkening of details on each side of the edge. Topaz Detail truly adds no halos even when the 'Small Details' setting is all the way up at 1.00.

Yes, but 'TL Clarity' boosts contrast, while 'TL Detail' boosts spatial frequencies.

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I've long known about Qimage and have read many many good things about it. I'm just not sure if it really provides a leap of quality for my work. I hold anything you say in high regard, of course. Many recommendations and tips you have so generously provided have helped me tremendously to improve. I'm just not seeing this in Qimage at the moment.

It's hard to compare hand tweaked results achieved by using a number of hand picked best-of-class procedures, with largely automatic productivity tools. The workflow benefits cannot be easily compared with hand tweaked results, because we are comparing different features and do so while pixel-peeping. In real output the differences will be hard to detect though, not impossible, but hard.

Cheers,
Bart
« Last Edit: January 02, 2017, 09:09:47 am by BartvanderWolf »
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samueljohnchia

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Re: Optimizing print sharpness using Qimage
« Reply #19 on: January 03, 2017, 06:09:24 am »

Mike Chaney has also said something to that effect, that Qimage may not produce the absolute best possible output, but produces by far the most convenient/consistent/repeatable high quality output hat usually leaves e.g. straight forward printing from Photoshop or other applications in the dust. This is often confirmed by new users of Qimage, they can clearly see the improvement compared to their e.g. Photoshop output. And in addition, QU adds a lot of print management workflow tools, including recalling prior printjobs and unclogging of single color channels, to name a couple.

Hi Bart, yes, this is why I am interested in giving Qimage a try.

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Could you explain what was done exactly? When you say 'saving out a TIFF', is that upsampled? Also remember that 16-bit/channel data (and layers) is not absolutely necessary if you produce printed output. Qimage will (dither and) round to 8-b/ch anyway, to accommodate the printer driver. The dithering helps to visually smooth out potential quantization effects like posterization. You can also feed a highest-quality JPEG (with print-medium profile or a large colorspace) to Qimage, you'll be hard-pressed to see any difference in print. Qimage will do the resampling, sharpening, optional dithering, and finally the conversion to the output colorspace anyway.

I started with a test file, a TIFF with no layers, and double clicked on it in Qimage. That brings me to some kind of editing window. 'Saving out a TIFF' means after edits like upsampling and/or adding DFS, I go to the menu 'File>Save as' to save out a TIFF version of my edits, so I can compare the results against PZP in Photoshop.

I don't believe I have seen any evidence that 16 bit printing is beneficial to 8 bit printing, so perhaps that is not an issue at all with Qimage. But it is nice to have the 16 bit Plug-in for my Canon iPF8400 too. I am still in the midst of weaning myself off from overly large working spaces to Joe Holmes' Dcam spaces, so the JPEG 8 bit route may eventually work, but not so for my current ProPhoto RGB Masters.

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And how did you determine the time DFS added (e.g. printed without and printed with DFS?)? Did you print to file, in which case Hard disk performance and Virus scanners can make a difference. Also make sure that you have (Edit>Preferences) Multithreading (Multi-Core processing) set to whatever works best on your system, and that Qimage isn't still building thumbnails in the background. Also memory fragmentation can play a role, which can be checked with holding down the Shift key when you click 'Help>Analyze Current Settings'. If the print file is larger than the largest contiguous memory block, then the Operating system has to manage memory, and maybe swap to disk. Remember that Print output files can become rather large, despite their single layer 8-b/ch data.

Again, in the editing window after double clicking on the test TIFF file in the main Qimage window. When I invoke DFS by changing the radius or % amount, a small window appears to give me a close up preview of an area of the image. The preview takes a long time to toggle between the before/after states! Topaz Detail 3 is almost instant. Click - instant refresh - release. So after I hit the 'OK' button, Qimage starts to do its DFS magic and I am left with a spinning cursor for almost 1 minute. No, I was not printing to file. Multi-core processing is turning on (by default). No thumbnails are building in the background.

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Again, I do not know what we are comparing, so it's hard to comment on that. Doesn't Photoshop's Autosave play a role in this? And is the save time with or without resampling time? Qimage does everything at the same time, Resampling/Sharpening/Profile conversion/Dithering/anti-aliasing if down-sampling, and sending chunks to the Printer driver to avoid memory issues. I'm not so sure that there is less efficiency if you add up all the steps required to produce output, but maybe there is room for improvement, who knows? I'm sure Mike Chaney is willing to listen.

So that is what is happening, I'm not convinced that it is a faster way to work just now. Perhaps overall it is more efficient, especially with the benefits of nesting and for those printing a lot. I tend to make my prints one at a time and spend quite a bit of extra time per print.

BTW what do the sharpening scale numbers 1-10 correspond to? Default is 5 - what is that in radius and amount % for DFS?

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That doesn't correspond with my tests, although we might interpret halos differently. Also make sure to view DFS separate from Resampling, which usually will produce a certain amount of halo (only something like a low contrast bi-linear resampling can avoid that, or special procedures like PZP uses).

If we take an abrupt change in image brightness between a uniform dark gray and a uniform light gray region, then sharpening that must enhance the edge contrast by lowering the dark gray values, and raising the light gray areas, otherwise it would not look 'sharper'. That's not really a halo, it's enhanced acutance, or edge contrast, there is no other way to give more acutance to such a transition.

On a slightly more gradual transition  (1 or more pixels) from darker to lighter one can use low amounts to reduce over/under-shoots , but they will not be very visually effective, and larger amounts may exaggerate the edge transition, but again that is simply the result of boosting acutance with a USM type of sharpening. DFS effectively suppresses that, but cannot (should not) eliminate the acutance boost, it just avoids the additional halo.
Topaz detail is rather unique! But it is not a print mamagement application.

Thanks for this. I've been rethinking the halo issue. I was looking at the results on actual photographs when making my earlier observations. A halo to me is just that, an obvious dark contour and/or an obvious light contour on either side of an edge. I've always thought that the best kind of sharpening would simply increase the MTF gradient, steepening it, of an edge, without creating any overshoots. If the edge is very soft/wide, 'thinning' the edge and reducing the zone of transition is the way to go, not lowering the dark gray values further and raising the light gray values - that would just create halos, no?

Check out the synthetic slant edge target I used as an experiment. 4 JPEG files, the original target and two renderings of DFS at amount 1000% with radius 1 and 3, one of Topaz Detail (Small Details 1.00). Turns out that Topaz Detail does add 'halos', pardon me if you think I am abusing the word. So - what on earth is happening? I don't see this with regular photographs. The halos with Topaz Detail are horrible! They are wider than the radius=1 halos with DFS, plus they have a zipper artifact. Where would the zipper artifacts come from? It's a dither-free 16 bit mode image in Photoshop. That's really disgusting! If anything, DFS radius=1 is much better.

I don't like how DFS reduces the tonal contrast of fine, low contrast detail. Also notice that the white and black halos are apt to be driven into clipping with high amount settings with DFS, while Topaz does not clip even at the maximum setting.

I've always thought that Topaz's Small Details was not quite small enough. Wouldn't a 'Ultra Fine Details' setting be nice?  ;)

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It's hard to compare hand tweaked results achieved by using a number of hand picked best-of-class procedures, with largely automatic productivity tools. The workflow benefits cannot be easily compared with hand tweaked results, because we are comparing different features and do so while pixel-peeping. In real output the differences will be hard to detect though, not impossible, but hard.

Indeed it would be difficult to make a direct comparison. What I am more interested in is if I can do anything to get even better quality output, plain and simple. It could be achieving the same quality faster, or better quality with the same amount of time and effort, or better quality with even more time and effort but worthwhile.
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