Image "splits" in two on H4D 40 with long exposures

[kenkenman]

Has anyone ever witnessed a line that goes down the middle of a 3F image and a definitive split of an image with regards to color? On a recent trip I was shooting a lot of 2-4 minute exposures (sometimes into the sun, sometimes not) and shot to Phocus 3, Lightroom CC, and to card. In all instances I got this split image effect going on. The image gets better when processed through Phocus but it's still kind of there. LR doesn't fix it at all. And I tried downloading an earlier version of Phocus to test but couldn't get anything earlier than the latest V2 to work on location (which didn't help anyway). The blad has the latest firmware, too and I'm using all the latest Adobe stuff.

Any clues as to what's going on or how to fix it? A friend suggested it was the sensor mapping gone wrong.

Examples:



Thanks!
Ken

[rogerxnz]

I understand this effect is called "panelling" and I would expect your dedicated converter Phocus would fix it. Certainly, Lightroom cannot.

See this article:   
http://www.davidebarranca.com/2012/04/phase-one-digital-back-adobe-camera-raw-7-cs6-paneling-bug/

Sorry, that's all I know apart from my experience with 60 and 80 MP backs. I think I got away with using Lightroom with my 60MP back but I know that it is essential to use Capture One with my 80MP back.

I'm sure others will know more. BTW, have you tried using Capture One? Does that improve the image?
Roger 
 

Has anyone ever witnessed a line that goes down the middle of a 3F image and a definitive split of an image with regards to color? On a recent trip I was shooting a lot of 2-4 minute exposures (sometimes into the sun, sometimes not) and shot to Phocus 3, Lightroom CC, and to card. In all instances I got this split image effect going on. The image gets better when processed through Phocus but it's still kind of there. LR doesn't fix it at all. And I tried downloading an earlier version of Phocus to test but couldn't get anything earlier than the latest V2 to work on location (which didn't help anyway). The blad has the latest firmware, too and I'm using all the latest Adobe stuff.

Any clues as to what's going on or how to fix it? A friend suggested it was the sensor mapping gone wrong.

Examples:

Thanks!
Ken

[E.J. Peiker]

I'm sure others will know more. BTW, have you tried using Capture One? Does that improve the image?
Roger

He's asking about a Hasselblad so he can't use Capture One.

[Doug Peterson]

I understand this effect is called "panelling" and I would expect your dedicated converter Phocus would fix it. Certainly, Lightroom cannot.

Quadranting or Tiling are the terms I've heard used more often.

If you see it in Phocus I would contact your Hassy dealer.

[tcdeveau]

You can also contact Hasselblad support directly via the Hasselblad website. They were quite helpful whenever I had issues with my H4D-40. Never saw anything like the issue you're experiencing when I had mine though.

[pflower]

I had this problem unexpectedly with some of the earlier versions of Phocus 3.  Later versions cured it.  Are you certain that you are using the most recent version?  If so then Hasselblad support is your first port of call.

[BAB]

It looks like you have a cracked sensor due to an abundance of long exposure to violet light, this frequently happens close to the ocean due to the magnetic north being obstructed by earth atmosphere. or its sensor divorce a technical term which means the sensor fell out of love with the body.  A quick remedy would be to use a 8ft ladder placed in the ocean stand on the top rung of the ladder with your camera in hand attached to a strong rope. Set the camera to 4 min time exposure using F32, white balance set to cloudy and bracket exposures to 7 frames 2stops. Drop you camera in the ocean from ladder height just before the camera hits the water say the magic words "please fix this" then stop the immersion process from happening by limiting the amount of rope. This will scare the sensor into thinking its going to die a horrible drowning death and then it will behave.

J/K this might help (see) Torger answer: http://www.getdpi.com/forum/medium-format-systems-and-digital-backs/50367-iq160-tiling-issue.html

[sc_john]

To the OP,

I had this exact same problem with a P1 IQ260. In my case, the quadrant lines only showed up with long exposures. It was resolved by P1 tech support sending me a file to load into Capture One. In my case, the line was not in the original file, but was being generated by new release of C1 Pro (v7). The specific file sent by P1 was named "ZoneISOPicker", FWIW, and it fixed my problem. I would think that Hasselblad tech support should be able to help you.

Good luck,

John

[eronald]

Actually, there is banding all over the image. I think the sensor calibration is bad, or the electronics board has died.

Edmund

[kenkenman]

Thanks everyone for your insight. I'll double check on my Phocus version but will plan on contacting Hassy today and see what's up.

Thanks again and happy holidays!
Ken

[sailronin]

I had the same issue on a different sensor.  It was adjusted by the mfg who said it was a calibration issue on the processing board.

[kenkenman]

I had the same issue on a different sensor.  It was adjusted by the mfg who said it was a calibration issue on the processing board.

^ Thanks for the info. It's on its way to Sweden right now after a stop at Hasselblad Bron in Jersey. I'm hoping it's just something like that. I have friends with Phase backs who said it was probably something like that (though Phase apparently doesn't need the back. Just a raw file to calibrate to).

[voidshatter]

It's known as "tiling issue" and is a property of CCD digital backs.

The best solution is to go for a CMOS digital back instead.