Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: Stitching and Pano heads  (Read 4518 times)

George Barr

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 37
Stitching and Pano heads
« on: July 07, 2006, 02:25:42 am »

Bernard, thank you for your work on testing and reporting on the LD. Frankly after your report, I'm more interested in your experience with the Really Right Stuff Pano Head.

The LD is too heavy and too bulky to lug any distance and limitations in tilting would I think discount it's use.

I use a 1Ds2 which is both large and very heavy (as is the D2x) and wonder how sturdy you thought the pano head was for stitching - at the moment I use a wooden slider for 2D adjustment but have to guess when aiming the camera up or down, resulting in some tricky stitching situations. Your comments on experience with this device for stitching would be appreciated.
Thanks,

George
Logged

andythom68

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 28
Stitching and Pano heads
« Reply #1 on: July 07, 2006, 09:18:09 am »

Quote
Bernard, thank you for your work on testing and reporting on the LD. Frankly after your report, I'm more interested in your experience with the Really Right Stuff Pano Head.

The LD is too heavy and too bulky to lug any distance and limitations in tilting would I think discount it's use.

I use a 1Ds2 which is both large and very heavy (as is the D2x) and wonder how sturdy you thought the pano head was for stitching - at the moment I use a wooden slider for 2D adjustment but have to guess when aiming the camera up or down, resulting in some tricky stitching situations. Your comments on experience with this device for stitching would be appreciated.
Thanks,

George
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=69998\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Hi George,

I also have a 1Ds2 (with L-bracket) and I recently got the RRS omni pro pano kit. I have only used it twice but I can tell you it is a solid, well engineered piece of kit   So far I have used it for panos with the 50mm 1.4 and 16-35 2.8 (at 35mm) with no problems. Just as a test I also put my 70-200 2.8 on the camera to see how it would handle a heavier, longer lens and had no stability problems.

I have seen in the RRS catalogue pictures with large telephoto lenses attached to the "omni pro" so I guess it is able to cope with anything a mere mortal like me is going to throw at it  

It is not a cheap pano setup but unless I throw it off a mountain or blow it up it looks like it will last longer than me!


Anyone out there with some long term experience of this?


Andy
Logged

Fred Ragland

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 155
    • http://
Stitching and Pano heads
« Reply #2 on: July 07, 2006, 11:50:00 am »

I do panaromic work with a 1Ds2 with RRS L plate and RRS release plates on the lenses.  The RRS BH-55 LR has seen me through many journeys and works very well.

If I'm not flat stitching, I get every thing leveled up and then use the marked panning base to determine how far to rotate.  If I'm flat stitching with a shift lense, I've marked my L plate a'la Digital Outback Photo (go to Forums and use search) and use the marks to set the shift.  

The BH-55 is rated at 50 lbs., more than the heaviest load I've asked it to carry.
Logged

BernardLanguillier

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 13983
    • http://www.flickr.com/photos/bernardlanguillier/sets/
Stitching and Pano heads
« Reply #3 on: July 08, 2006, 11:34:17 pm »

Quote
I use a 1Ds2 which is both large and very heavy (as is the D2x) and wonder how sturdy you thought the pano head was for stitching - at the moment I use a wooden slider for 2D adjustment but have to guess when aiming the camera up or down, resulting in some tricky stitching situations. Your comments on experience with this device for stitching would be appreciated.
Thanks,

George
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=69998\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

hi George,

Thanks.

Well, it depends on the conditions and of the lens I would say.

Wind is the ennemy, just like when shooting 4*5. I tend to avoid doing multi-row panos when the wind blows too much.

Regarding lenses, I mostly do multi-row with my 35 mm f2 (equivalent to a 50 mm on your 1ds2), and that is completely OK. I also sometimes use the 70-200 f2.8, and that is basically too heavy with my current set up.

It would probably do if I mounted the lens + body assembly using the lens tripod collar, that is doable, but it requires the purchase of a rail that enables an accurate positioning of the lens. Currently I don't have one.

Hope that it helps,

Regards,
Bernard

George Barr

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 37
Stitching and Pano heads
« Reply #4 on: July 09, 2006, 10:37:47 pm »

Thanks Bernard. it does occur to me that most shots with the 70-200 or even 300 mm. lenses that are to be stitched are at near infinity anyway (if for no other reason than depth of field) and stitching should be relatively painless even with a bit of positioning  error - as long as it isn't huge - with the lens collar on as I move the camera from horizontal up for the stitch, the angle is about 20 degrees without any overlap so say 15 degrees. With the centre of the lens a good 6 inches above the centre of the ball head, this amounts to approx. 1.5 inches (gee, this is the first time I have used a trig calculation since university (say 38 years) (guess, that education wasn't wasted after all).

OK so 1.5 inches back or forward if the subject is 100 feet away (with the 70 mm. lens), then the image size changes by1.5/(100*12 inches)=.00125. This ratio multiplied by approx. 1500 pixels from centre to edge of the narrow side of the sensor, gives the pixel error at the corner assuming you line up the middle of the two images stacked one above the other - this amounts to 1500*.00125=2 pixels.

That is, at 100 feet with a 70 mm. lens tilted up to do a second row of images, the error induced by not using a 3D pan head is two pixels on the far left, two on the far right, zero in the centre.  Of course, you could angle the camera up then slide the camera forward 1.5 inches and reduce that pixel error to negligeable. Guess I won't be hanging my 70-200 off the 3D pan head, I can save it for stitches with wider lighter lenses.
Logged

SeanBK

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 531
Stitching and Pano heads
« Reply #5 on: July 10, 2006, 09:06:36 am »

George, based on Bernard's comments & seeing his results I got RRS BH-55 ballhead and ultimate-Pro Omni-Pivot package & L-barcket to use with my D2X (17-55 & 80-400) along with Hasselblad H1. I must say the quality of RRS is very good and it does handle heavy lenses quite well.
Logged

luong

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 259
    • http://www.terragalleria.com
Stitching and Pano heads
« Reply #6 on: July 19, 2006, 07:04:47 pm »

Bernard, I noticed that you have the BH-40 (rather than the BH-55 that RRS suggests for pro DSLRs). Do you have any reservations ? Was the fact that pan and main knobs were on opposite side a problem ? Did you use it with your Ebony ?
Logged
QT Luong - author of http://TreasuredLandsBook.com, winner of 6 national book awards

BernardLanguillier

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 13983
    • http://www.flickr.com/photos/bernardlanguillier/sets/
Stitching and Pano heads
« Reply #7 on: July 19, 2006, 08:10:55 pm »

Hello Luong,

I actually have both a BH-40 and BH-55, but my quest for ultra light trekking gear has led me to use the BH-40 more recently.

Frankly speaking, I haven't done a rigorous comparison of both and can only offer vague comments on these. My "feeling" is that the BH-40 + Gitzo 1257 does the job well when the conditions are good (not too much wind). I haven't shot with the Ebony too much on top of the BH-40, but didn't notice any sharpness problem when I did. Again I was lucky enough to shoot in mild weather mostly.

My guts feeling though is that the BH-55 is probably indeed a better pick when shooting 4*5 or multi-row panos if weight isn't too much of a concern.

Regards,
Bernard
Pages: [1]   Go Up