Hasselblad h6d-100c?

[BernardLanguillier]

Sorry guys, I was requested not to publish the images I shot, regardless of this issue.

Cheers,
Bernard

[BAB]

Bernard
If you remember was there a spirit leveling function on the camera? Also was your use of the focus confirm sufficient enough to satisfy you?

thanks

barry

[BernardLanguillier]

Bernard
If you remember was there a spirit leveling function on the camera? Also was your use of the focus confirm sufficient enough to satisfy you?

No it wasn't, but the Hassy rep told me they were going to support it on an upcoming firmware.

I didn't try the focus confirmation, I mostly shot with AF True Focus and got good accuracy. The only issue was with the 50mm II that had troubles focusing at times, I was told this was also going to be fixed by firmware.

Overall I got a very good impression of the camera, except for these purple fringing issues with both the 50mmII and 100mm f2.2 as mentioned.

Cheers,
Bernard

[BAB]

As I've commented before, I've been asking Hasselblad for intergrated step focusing many times over the past several years. The best answer from product development was it's on the to-do-list? I sure hope some of the crippled pre existing firmware solutions are very very quickly implemented, before the initial first wave of shipments would be prudent.


The 100mm lens is on my buy list for many reasons. The most important being panoramic images it has been proven to be the sweet spot in focal length for those images, it would be unacceptable if purple fringing was strong using it. Especially if one was not able to remove the fringing with software! I would love to know if any one has any previlaged information regarding minor quality upgrades in the newly announced lenses.


The 50ii which I do own is an incredible lens I'm curious if you got a bad copy as my results with it have been great even with the 1.7x and the HTS 1.5. The only lens that gives me trouble is the 28 when I tilt it up too much...impossible to correct the distortion. Maybe with a 100 sensor being a different X factor it will come to life when tilted a little bit.


Scary to read the post about all the lock ups, "H" must being pulling their hair out trying to get these news beasts to market I know I would be.


Thank you for the input.

[ErikKaffehr]

Hi Bernard,

Thanks for info!

Best regards
Erik

Sorry guys, I was requested not to publish the images I shot, regardless of this issue.

Cheers,
Bernard

[landscapephoto]

The 100mm lens is on my buy list for many reasons. The most important being panoramic images it has been proven to be the sweet spot in focal length for those images, it would be unacceptable if purple fringing was strong using it.

The 100mm is a very good lens, but was not designed for what you want to do. It is a fast double-Gauss design and shows the advantages (for portraits) and disadvantages (for what you intend to do) of that classical design. If you need a lens around that focal length, you will probably be more satisfied with the HD-120 II macro (not the first version), which is very well corrected even at large distances. Unfortunately, the HD-120 II is quite large and heavy.

[BernardLanguillier]

The 100mm lens is on my buy list for many reasons. The most important being panoramic images it has been proven to be the sweet spot in focal length for those images, it would be unacceptable if purple fringing was strong using it. Especially if one was not able to remove the fringing with software! I would love to know if any one has any previlaged information regarding minor quality upgrades in the newly announced lenses.

I had the same issue with the 100mm, but I am not sure if it a lens issue a sensor limitation.

It seems that this is nothing new and that older backs, both on P1 and Hassy, can also exhibit this kind of purple fringing in some circumstances, typically a very bright area close to a dark one.

Cheers,
Bernard

[ErikKaffehr]

Hi,

An intro to Lloyd's article is here: http://zeisstouit.com/blog/2010/20100725_2-Leica70.html

Lloyd says: "The comparison should be of interest to anyone wondering about purple fringing (eg Canon, Nikon or any other brand)."

Brian Caldwell, a well known American lens designer posted this on GetDPI:

http://www.getdpi.com/forum/medium-format-systems-and-digital-backs/18201-more-longitudinal-color-70-2-5-s2-lens.html?highlight=#post231670

And this:

"Yes, I design lenses. But the vast majority of them will never be seen by the public, and the handful that will are hardly competitors to Leica. I'm about as much competition to Leica as Leica is competition to all other photographic companies combined.

The thing that interests me about Lloyd's recent studies is they suggest that purple fringing seems to be mainly due to longitunal color in the deep violet, and has nothing to do with "sensor blooming" or microlenses etc. Knowledge is a good thing, and incorrect myths are a bad thing, in my view.

I found out about Lloyd's CA study early because he had asked me a couple of questions. Honestly, I only posted a link to it because I knew that readers here were interested in the topic. In the future I will be less naive about the likelihood of hostility."

Best regards
Erik

I had the same issue with the 100mm, but I am not sure if it a lens issue a sensor limitation.

It seems that this is nothing new and that older backs, both on P1 and Hassy, can also exhibit this kind of purple fringing in some circumstances, typically a very bright area close to a dark one.

Cheers,
Bernard

[eronald]

Sorry guys, I was requested not to publish the images I shot, regardless of this issue.

Cheers,
Bernard

Bernard,

 If you want to buy a camera, you get to do what you want with your sample images - or else you cannot get that camera. Either the firmware is really immature or the dealer is 

BTW, I had a lot of purple color fringing issues on the 1Ds with my Canon 85/1.2, but not with the later cameras, I believe. It's annoying because it pops up in real-world situations, and I had to sell some prints in B&W because of it

Also, I know (not surmise or believe) that Leica  *knew* about UV issues on the S2, and filtration is built into the original lenses because it was too late to change the sensor. That doesn't mean they had purple fringing.  I don't think the purple fringing issue boils down to one specific factor, but software/firmware can probably mitigate it to some degree.

Edmund

[BAB]

Landscapephoto

The 100mm is a very good lens, but was not designed for what you want to do. It is a fast double-Gauss design and shows the advantages (for portraits) and disadvantages (for what you intend to do) of that classical design. If you need a lens around that focal length, you will probably be more satisfied with the HD-120 II macro (not the first version), which is very well corrected even at large distances. Unfortunately, the HD-120 II is quite large and heavy.

I'm not disagreeing with you but from the images I've made with the 100mm it seem to preform to a degree that was astonishing in the final image. Again we might have a different opinion when tested with the larger sensor without the x factor. I must admit though shooting 40-50 images with a Seitz Roundshot VR head with both the 100mm and the newest 120mm the 120 was a bit more touchy weight wise but the seitz handled it well. More of the issue one can have is with the brackets you use giving unwanted vibrations setting a delay in acquiring the image sequence seem to solve the vibrations but...that brings into play with nature movements of leaves, branches, water and clouds. Can't win for losing? In my experience the purple fringing comes in to play based on the direction of the light. I love to shoot into the sun but several of my lenses don't this is when I noticed the most image issues then the camera, lenses and/or sensors can handle. However maybe the images with sunspots, flare and fringing have there appeal to some people and we shouldn't be so critical.

Changing the channel I even used the 120mm with the HTS 1.5 and it works but as I was told by Hassy its to heavy and not recommended. Also for what I was photographing the tilt for small products didn't make enough of a difference to completely solve the entire problem of depth of field but did knock down my image stacking by about 30%. That use of the HTS 1.5 also creates a new monster with the 1.5x even when backing up you still can't fill enough of the sensor to get the most out of 50MB. (without shooting 80-100 stacked images bring in to play many other issues) Its more like you only get 50% of the sensor covering the image.

On another note if anyone has had some experience with the 100c I sure hope (wish) they would share it on this forum. I know several units have been shipped but it seems the owners are tight lipped at this time.

Regards

Barry

[landscapephoto]

Changing the channel I even used the 120mm with the HTS 1.5 and it works but as I was told by Hassy its to heavy and not recommended.

That is surprising. The 120mm cannot be mounted on the HTS: the lens barrel is too wide and collides with the HTS mechanics.

[BAB]

Might slap an extension tube on yours and try it.

[landscapephoto]

Might slap an extension tube on yours and try it.

That will work mechanically but give poor results optically.

[Dustbak]

I have done this (Extention tube with the 120 on the HTS), indeed the results are pretty poor. The 100 with extention tubes on the HTS performs noticably better.

[BAB]

Yes I agree better results without HTS 1.5 on the 120mm and extension tube.  I heard some photographers have tried the 50mm ii + macro convertor and HTS 1.5 don't know if that set up made a huge difference. That's why I have asked Hassy to make a proper 180mm macro! Or better yet give us a little better HTS.

[ErikKaffehr]

Hi Bernard,

I started a thread on that issue on DPReview, here: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/58587353

In addition, I have checked around a bit on the net. It is hard to tell without seeing your samples, but it seems to be some kind of consensus that correction of axial chroma is the main issue and that it can be handled using proper filtration.

As I said before, excellent correction of axial chroma may be the defining advantage of the Otus lenses.

Just to say, the dominance of the Otuses may not be forever, the folks in Japan know how to design lenses. I have been much impressed with three samples of the Canon 16-35/4L I had the opportunity to shoot, and Canon just released 16-35/2.8 with much superior test data compared to that 16-35/4L.

I don't know that much about Nikon, but I am pretty sure they are not sleeping, and neither is Sigma or Tamron.

Best regards
Erik

I had the same issue with the 100mm, but I am not sure if it a lens issue a sensor limitation.

It seems that this is nothing new and that older backs, both on P1 and Hassy, can also exhibit this kind of purple fringing in some circumstances, typically a very bright area close to a dark one.

Cheers,
Bernard

[landscapephoto]

Yes I agree better results without HTS 1.5 on the 120mm and extension tube.  I heard some photographers have tried the 50mm ii + macro convertor and HTS 1.5 don't know if that set up made a huge difference. That's why I have asked Hassy to make a proper 180mm macro! Or better yet give us a little better HTS.

You are comparing apples and oranges here.

The only practical reason do use the HTS for macro work is when one needs to tilt. A 180 macro would not change that, unless it would be a tilt lens.

The 120 macro (I and II, which are exactly the same size) cannot be directly mounted on the HTS. They can be mounted on an extension tube and then on the HTS or directly on the camera, but mounting a macro lens of the kind on an extension tube gives poor optical results.

If you want to use the HTS with a macro lens, indeed the 50-II + macro converter is the solution suggested by Hasselblad and works very well. Alternatively, use the 80mm lens and the extension tube on the HTS (I think you have these).

[BAB]

This is getting kinda redundant but I need to fill the frame with a 25mm object and also get the most depth of field to reduce the amount of exposures for stacking without going to a view camera.

The 180mm lens would allow me to;
 
1.Move the camera stand farther back
2.Get my lights in a better front position without me crowding the object.
3.Allow me to fill more of the sensor yielding a higher resolution cropped master file to work with.
4.Use the Phocus software to move the internal focusing elements of the mounted lens which creats a better stack and faster shooting for production work.
5 Adding the NEW IMPROVED HTS with tilt would then reduce the amount of stacking by 30%. EX. 1000 items x 50 stacks ea = 15,000 less images per 1000 items. Without counting retouching hours shooting time alone would be a reduction of 250 hours or ten days of my life.
6.It would also be beneficial to have the ability of shift to give me more flexibility to avoid hot spots/reflections.

PS I'm looking for help to reduce the amount of time spent in my workflow making the image with a 50mb back cropped ends up being about 15-18MB at that size they are tough to print 30x40 and hold the desired detail. I'm on this forum to give and take but that doesn't mean I don't have needs and for personal reasons I like to fill those needs. For me its a business if I can persuade myself that I need to buy something to help me do the job better, faster or easier I buy it and if it doesn't work out I sell it. Many times people on this forum and others have been informative and helpful other times not.

This was not the topic of the thread so I apologize for the ranting.

I'm trying not to shut the door on your toe..but you seem to like it.

Barry