I'd like to add my perspective/experience to this topic. I have a Fuji X-2 converted to IR, the super-color 590nm conversion. I also bought an Olympus OM-5 mkii, planning to convert it as well, seeking to expand my lens choices, and to use the one feature that I keep my Olympus system for; the focus stacking. After conversations with both life pixel and KolariVision, I think I've changed my mind and will sell the camera, instead of converting it. Not to besmirch Olympus offerings but apparently the lenses that I'm interested in, the wides, don't perform quite up to the same standards as several other brands, and thus my decision (which is still tentative btw)
I am interested in black and white only, I don't really like false color, except in the case of some very subtle false color and the right subject. But that is my preference. I also don't want to bother fiddling around with filters for both regular shooting, IR cutoffs and UV. I'd probably have to buy at least three sizes, and those suckers are expensive! So the Fuji X-T1 is a system I'd never want for the above reasons plus the heavy price. I too have found that they want to limit to law enforcement, though I don't get it, why should that be, when one can simply order a full spectrum conversion by Lifepixel or by KolariVision. What's the secrecy and restriction here? But I've got cameras for every-day shooting, why need to have one full spectrum conversion and have to slap a filter to get it to shoot the regular way? Not for me, though I guess it's nice to have a lot of choices.
I have to admit that I think I wish I had gone for a stronger cut-off. Perhaps not the 830 but likely the 720. I wanted the control, and more color lets you achieve that with a lot of post processing, but the odd thing (for me) is that I find it problematic in the strangest way. I can't "see" at all the merit, or the lack of - until after I've processed every single file. That sucks. I get some great results but there is a lot of guessing in Camera, by looking at the viewfinder and not having any sort of clue, Thats because the scene renders so completely differently in IR and is so colored, even with a custom white ballance, that I just don't have enough experience. I feel like I'm shooting blind.
Now if you set my camera to black and white - then I'm in business, I can kind visualize quite well and set up my shots with much more likelihood of getting into the ballpark of what I'm after. That of course beggars the question, why bother with the super color. I may send it in and go for the 720. That looks near the end results, the white ballance is not as critical (thought it should always be set) and I think I'll be more productive. It's nice that the folks at Lifepixel will convert a camera back to original state for half price, should one be unhappy. I have to check if that applies to changing the filter to a stronger one? Hope so.
I respectfully disagree with the stated idea, that one can just go to Capture One and build a custom profile. The hot spot obliterates details and focus, the same way that strong lens flare does. You can't fix it. That is why I wanted to broaden my horizons out and convert one of my Olympuses.
On the Fuji side I've tested the 14, 23 F1.4, 23 F2.0, the 35 F 2.0, the 90 F 2.0 and the 55-200 zoom, personally and all perform fabulously up to F 11, with no hotspots that intrude. Well the 55-200 may require F 8 for someone with very hight standards, but that is still a very useful aperture. I've tested my 16, 18-55 and they are completely unsuitable whereas the 56 is useable up to F2.0. I feel.
I've also tested, with a converter the Nikon 105 micro VR and it is very very good, while the 60 micro is not useable except wide open. Horrid hotspot. A couple of the AIS lenses are good as far as hotspots are concerned. Specifically the 24 f 2.8, the 80 f 2.0 and the 135 f 2.8 AIS lenses. But they are soft, to the point of being strangely dream like (to put it nicely
) wide open and don't really get all that good at any aperture, with the exception of the 135 which sharpens up by F 5.6 through to F 11. So there is a lot of room to tinker and experiment, and get different looks. I find it a lot of fun.
If I figure out how to post photos here, and get organized a bit, perhaps I can post examples, if there is any demand for them.
If one is looking for something fresh and new, something to explore and learn with, I think IR is just perfect and a small investment when weighed against the fun of it. One thing that is great about it, is that once the morning light has changed and it's time to go home or wait for the golden hour at the end of the day, the IR camera comes out and is then, in the middle of the day, in it's "golden five hours". That sure stretched the shooting day out, nicely.