FUJI GX-680 lenses on tech camera & various image areas (MFDB - FF α7)...

[Theodoros]

Fuji GX-680 lenses are known to be used on GX-680 camera bodies only, but can they be used on view/tech cameras?

Oh yes they can!

There are three ways of using them depending on your choice for image area...

1. You choose to use an FF mirrorless for the job, so you have your own shutter.... In this case you have to stop down the aperture to the desired value which is the easiest thing in the world to do... You just have to hold down the stop down lever of the lens... You can even use an elastic string as to keep it down and prevent the lever for returning... very easy to do.

2. You choose to use an MFDB.... then you need an external shutter...  but the lens shutter is electronically controlled and only operative from the camera one may claim... Actually that's not the whole truth! 

Fuji GX-680 lenses are housed in simple to remove housings and are using Seiko 1 shutters.... To remove the lens from the housing, one has to unbolt the rear part of the lens and the rear block of the lens comes off! The front part requires for one to turn counter clock wise the circular front part of the housing (don't be affraid to use force - it's very tightly bolted) and then the front block of the lens comes off... Now you have a lens but no shutter... Only thing you have to do then is to use an old  mechanical Seiko 1 shutter (unfortunately Copal 1 is not compatible) for 50-60 euros and use that instead!

3. You choose to use an MFDB but with electronic shutter (or in multishot mode which requires electronic shutter).... Then you let the lens as is.... You buy yourself a Fuji GX-680 camera for 150-200 Euros and take the mount off... You attach the lens mount on a lensbord of the camera you are using (some simple self involvement here) and keep the Fuji GX-680 box (naked from rails, finders, backs or lens mount for ....control!  The chord that transfers the lens interface is detachable on the base of the lens board and can be extended easily to whatever length one wants... The only other thing one needs is is to use what he already has, meaning the cable of the back that connects to the bodies remote release shocet...

Done!

I hope you find this helpful... You'll be surprised how capable Fuji GX-680 lenses still are... and that's by not considering the price for having them!  Enjoy!

[Theodoros]

Now may I surprise a bit more? ...You can have all 3 above (exactly the same) if you use a Mamiya RZ system and lenses for the job... Mamiya RZ is also using Seiko 1 shutter...

I even suspect that if one wants to use electronic interface control with his lenses, the interface can go both ways... Meaning that both shutters can be controlled by the same circuit!  Even if one has to remove completely the pc board from one lens maker and use the PC board of the other in place of it!

This would means that one can have a combination of Fuji GX-680/Mamiya RZ lenses depending on his lens preference for the respective focal length and have them both with full electronic shutter and aperture control...

Another thing to note... Fuji GX-680/Mamiya RZ lenses have the longest mounting distances... this means that they are among the best to use with modern CMOs MFDBs with small pixels and microlenses... (even with extreme movements).  As for resolution you'll be surprised on how well the lenses hold with the FF mirrorless of today... 

[Peter Devos]

hi Theodoros,
I have been shooting with my GX680III with 180mm all day. I have a Hasselblad H adapter for my H3d-39MS with the special focussing screen that accepts a Hasselblad V viewfinder. Works great. For depth of field i need to shoot F32 :-)   but still tack-sharp images ;-)

[Theodoros]

hi Theodoros,
I have been shooting with my GX680III with 180mm all day. I have a Hasselblad H adapter for my H3d-39MS with the special focussing screen that accepts a Hasselblad V viewfinder. Works great. For depth of field i need to shoot F32 :-)   but still tack-sharp images ;-)

Hi Peter, you are using much the same back as I do (I'm using a CF-39MS fitted on Contax 645 plate and have a C645 plate permanently on my Fuji), I also use a Sinarback 54H... Indeed the results on the Fuji are impressive, but please try the same lenses on the same image area without having the influence of the vibration due to the mirror.... Especially in multishot mode on a tech camera, I'm sure you'll be thrilled!

[Peter Devos]

Hi Theodoros, for that i have a Hartbeicam with all sorts of lenses :-)  But i really like the fast way of focussing and working with the GX680. With the Imacon / fuji adapter, focussing wass like hell but with the capture group Hasselblad H adapter it focusses even better than any other camera, except for my RZ67. The only negative is that i loose focussing at infinity with the 50mm...... but i never use the GX outside the studio :-)

[Theodoros]

Hi Theodoros, for that i have a Hartbeicam with all sorts of lenses :-)  But i really like the fast way of focussing and working with the GX680. With the Imacon / fuji adapter, focussing wass like hell but with the capture group Hasselblad H adapter it focusses even better than any other camera, except for my RZ67. The only negative is that i loose focussing at infinity with the 50mm...... but i never use the GX outside the studio :-)

Peter, it's good to see that people still use the GX-680 and find it up to the requirements for professional use... I am using it too although I've converted my Sinar P2 as to use it with the same GX-680 lenses and even a mirrorless (other than my MFDBs) on the rear standard, but this is not a post as confirm how good the GX-680 system is (nearly everybody knows that it is a classic)... It is rather a post for informing people on how they can improve on the quality (and accuracy) of their images by using the same lenses  and additionally, save investment money on buying new lenses by using the very capable ones they already own...  I didn't destroy my GX-680 system as to convert my Sinar to use with the same lenses with the same interface... I added another body, took the guts and mount out of it and now I can share the lenses and interface on both systems.... 

As the O/P in this discussion, I would prefer if people would post their experience on GX-680 (RZ too) lens sharpness, image circle, range of movements, ability to cope with small pixels, compatibility with modern backs ...etc... There are many discussions in memory of the GX-680 system over the last decade for us to repeat another one...

The proposal here is how can one adapt the benefits of this same system in modern use, the performance that one could expect out of it and the savings he could end up because of his choice...

Additionally, the aim is to familiarize starters on the benefits of self involvement with the equipment they use for their photography...

[bpepz]

I use the Fuji GX680 for about 75% of my food photography. Really wonderful lenses. People bash the H system because they left behind ziess, but the H lenses have a similar color/contrast and rendering to the Fuji lenses since they are also made by Fuji, so I am glad the H system is the way it is.

[Theodoros]

It seems to me that Fuji GX-680 lenses have some characteristics that could make them a very attractive alternative to Rodenstock or Schneider tech camera lenses on a tech camera with digital sensors. They are sharp across the frame if stopped down to f11-f22, they are very well corrected for distortion, there's hardly any vignetting with them and they have a long flange mounting distance which should cause good compatibility with sensors with microlenses if combined with movements.

That said, I would be very much interested as to know how well the Fujinon 50mm f5.6 (which I've no personal experience of) copes with a digital sensor... Anybody that is using a Fujinon 50mm/5.6 with MFDB that can comment?

Mamiya RZ 50mm/5.6 should also be of interest as to be informed on...

[DanielStone]

Theodoros,

Just be aware that there are (2) versions of the 50mm RZ lens, one with a floating front element and one that doesn't have it. When I had an RZ kit(with film) with the 50 floating element, it was a SUPERB performer. I've made 5000+ dpi drum scans from negs/chromes shot with that lens, and I was very impressed with the sharpness, even out in the far corners. The only other 50mm MF "non-tech" lens that beat it(IMO) is/was the Mamiya 7 50mm. Truth be told, I'd rather use those Mamiya 7 lenses with either a 35mm DSLR/A7/etc or a MFDB. They are electronic leaf shutters, very small/lightweight in size, HIGHLY corrected and are natively designed to cover 6x7.

I'm actually surprised no one has come up with an adapter/controller box that can electronically control the M7 lenses.

Mamiya 7 lenses(43,50,65,80,150,210, all leaf shutter) with a controller box and a custom lensboard, used on a Cambo Actus, that would be my personal choice. I have zero hesitancy paring it with a 100MP digital back, I feel the M7 lenses could provide enough resolution for that big Sony sensor. PLUS a big image circle for movements if needed.

[Theodoros]

Theodoros,

Just be aware that there are (2) versions of the 50mm RZ lens, one with a floating front element and one that doesn't have it. When I had an RZ kit(with film) with the 50 floating element, it was a SUPERB performer. I've made 5000+ dpi drum scans from negs/chromes shot with that lens, and I was very impressed with the sharpness, even out in the far corners. The only other 50mm MF "non-tech" lens that beat it(IMO) is/was the Mamiya 7 50mm. Truth be told, I'd rather use those Mamiya 7 lenses with either a 35mm DSLR/A7/etc or a MFDB. They are electronic leaf shutters, very small/lightweight in size, HIGHLY corrected and are natively designed to cover 6x7.

I'm actually surprised no one has come up with an adapter/controller box that can electronically control the M7 lenses.

Mamiya 7 lenses(43,50,65,80,150,210, all leaf shutter) with a controller box and a custom lensboard, used on a Cambo Actus, that would be my personal choice. I have zero hesitancy paring it with a 100MP digital back, I feel the M7 lenses could provide enough resolution for that big Sony sensor. PLUS a big image circle for movements if needed.

Hi Daniel...

I'm aware of the later version lenses for the RZ with floating elements... Obviously that's what I refer to but forgot to mention it... 

Mamiya 7 lenses are a different story... To start with there can't be an adapter that will let them mount on an MF DSLR for the 43, 50 & 65mm focal lengths... These lenses have a protruding rear element that would require for no mirror in the mirror-box to exist as to fit... I believe the 43 (and possibly the 50 too) can't even physically fit the Sony a7 either as there is less than 40mm difference between the two mounting distances and the rear element seems to protrude more than that!   

Obviously the most interesting lenses of the system are the wider ones and especially so  the 43mm due to its wide image circle and focal length, it being the wider lens... I suppose it could be very interesting for one to try on a view camera, but it would have to be on a recessed board and then with the leaf shutter of the lens being operative since its mounting distance and protruding rear element would only leave a few millimeters left from the image sensor as to work with...

Does anybody happen to know what kind of electronic shutter Mamiya 7 lenses use?
I know Mamiya RZ and RB use Seiko 1 as Fuji GX-680 and Bronica GS-1 does... Is it the same with Mamiya 7 or is it other?

[DanielStone]

Theodoros,
I was referring to using the Mamiya 7 lenses on a technical camera, such as the Alpa or (IMO preferable) Linhof Techno or Cambo Actus. When combined with a CMOS digital back and live view, or even a sliding back on the Techno, I feel the lenses (could) prove to be a great option for those of us needing corrective movements.

I wasn't referring to using them on a MF DSLR

[Theodoros]

Theodoros,
I was referring to using the Mamiya 7 lenses on a technical camera, such as the Alpa or (IMO preferable) Linhof Techno or Cambo Actus. When combined with a CMOS digital back and live view, or even a sliding back on the Techno, I feel the lenses (could) prove to be a great option for those of us needing corrective movements.

I wasn't referring to using them on a MF DSLR

Yes, I agree with you it would certainly worth trying, but as I said before, the wider lenses would only be usable if one can operate the internal leaf shutter they have, or disassemble them and replace the shutter with a compatible one...
This is due to the protruding rear element which won't allow (with the wideangles) the use of a mirrorless as image area since the rear element would mess with the mount. Thus, an MFDB has to be used, but again, one can't use a a focal plane shutter with an MFDB because the focal plane shutter needs a 2cm casing as to house its mechanism inside which would again cause the rear element of the wider angle lenses to mess with the focal plane shutter casing. So there is only one solution... This is for one to use an MFDB and then operate the lens using its own shutter, or to find an alternative shutter that is compatible to it and replace the one originally used on the lens!

That's why I made this enquire: "Does anybody happen to know what kind of electronic shutter Mamiya 7 lenses use?
I know Mamiya RZ and RB use Seiko 1 as Fuji GX-680 and Bronica GS-1 does... Is it the same with Mamiya 7 or is it other?" in my previous quote to you...