The importance of yaw free operation is much more than most people think... Especially when the subject is close or for interior architecture photography and even more so if stitching is involved. Literally, no image is distortionless unless if the camera is completely yaw free and the lens is completely free of distortion. The result out of using a "perfect" combination, won't only be successful and distortionless, but sharper too as there will be no "mud" added due to stitching... Further more, if the camera is completely yaw free, one can use stitching by rotating the camera around the axis that passes through the lens entrance pupil and other than achieving much wider angles, use swings between shots as to achieve an impressive result for perspective.
For completely yaw free operation to be achieved, the lens entrance pupil must be positioned at exactly at the center of the circle of which the tilt arc is part of the perimeter and then the swing movements mechanism center to be on the same axis as the entrance pupil of the lens and the center of the tilt arc... Therefore, for the M2 or other camera to be yaw free, it is not a matter of camera design, but more a matter of lens positioning on the frame.
Ideally, for a camera to be of completely yaw free operation with any lens attached on it, the front and rear frames should be adjustable back and forth on the standard so that the user positions the frame so that its entrance pupil is at the correct position despite the lens used (of course the same applies for the center of the image area on the rear frame) and additionally, if the camera has shift mechanisms on the same standard, up-down shift mechanism should be UNDERNEATH the tilt mechanism and side shifts should be underneath the swing mechanism... otherwise combination of these movements should be avoided because they'll destroy yaw free operation.
Personally, I use a Sinar P2 (one of the few cameras that have all shift mechanisms bellow all tilts and swings) and have the frames and bellows completely removed and replaced by new ones that can slide back and forth on the standards, got rid of Sinar's parallel axis system (the new frames are centered), I use a self made bellows that can squeeze to less than 5mm and can extend to 400mm and used circular frames of Φ 85mm for the front standard and Φ 72mm for the rear standard so that I can even mount a Sony mirrorless and have its grip recessed by the frame... I've also converted a Kapture group sliding frame and mount it on the rear frame's external diameter (Φ82mm external -72mm internal) so that the image area of an MFDB is also operational on the rear frame.