Background – I have been to Antarctica 40 times or so (half a year in the Drake Passage
). First as a passenger, then as a tour leader and/or ship photographer. I do 2-4 trips down there every year. Similar experience in the Arctic, some or so (land-based) trips. My wife owns a “polar” booking company, hence we know ships, operators, staff, pricing etc. reasonably well.
IAATO sets visitor guidelines in Antarctica – landing site access (some sites are blocked during certain times to protect wildlife, historical sites), number and size of ships that can visit a site (never more than one at a time) and “policies on land” (e.g., active distance to wildlife).
“We just tell the captain where we want to go” is a myth that some tour companies like to propagate. That is far from the truth. Yes, you can run your ship where you may feel are good conditions, and shoot from the ship. But you cannot just show up at a site that has good weather/light/other conditions and land. The odds of a site being available are small in high season, and only a “trade” with another ship may accomplish a switch.
In South Georgia, the distance and direction of travel (almost all tours start on the east side, in the north) makes changes even more challenging.
You DO have the flexibility stay longer on land, if the captain and EL (expedition leader) and agree (and no other ship is scheduled to land later after you).
The maximum number of people “on land” allowed is usually 100. So, no, do not go on larger ships, as that will be “split” for landings (e.g., 200 passengers -> 100 go first, then the other 100).
There are different seasons, and you have to make a trade-off between “I want to see chicks” and other criteria. I like the early season, since I love penguins on snow, not poopy rock. But – no chicks, except for kings (“okum boys”). But then, you see elephant seal pups early in the season.
Photo tour or not – that is a personal preference. I prefer to not have a lot of people with lots of gear around me. Yes, photographers are more likely to break the rules to get “the shot” (being "too close" is a common complaint). But, more importantly, if you go on a regular tour, non-photographers tend to go back to the ship sooner – you may often have the landing site to just you and a few others. You never see that with a ship chock full of photographers.
Lastly, I get motion-sick on each trip. It is still worth it!
Best,
Thomas
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www.thomaskokta.comwww.alifeoftravel.comPS That video is of a baby elephant seal, aka, “wiener”. They often come close. You would not want to be that close to a fur seal, adult or infant. They can be very aggressive, and sometimes their quantities on beaches block access to landings.