A fascinating and very useful report thank you! I liked some of the photos too. These are valuable notes for the rest of us who will be travelling to Iceland. Again, thank you so much. The story about the dog was amusing; I encountered something similar in a different part of the planet. Some years ago I was exploring the Western part of Vancouver island and on the outskirts of a village I found a small beach/bay and sat on the rocks to watch the sunset and salmon leap in the air to catch insects. Then a dog came up to me and brought a tennis ball that it kept insisting that I throw for it to fetch. I looked around but could not see its human companion...perhaps they lived in a cottage that was above the beach. At any rate, to placate the dog, I would throw throw the stick and it would dutifully bring it back and then bark for me to throw it again. It was old and had arthritis but insisted on playing this "game" for an hour.