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Author Topic: Setting up mounting and lamination area for large prints, advice needed  (Read 1565 times)

disneytoy

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Hi gang!

I print on an Epson 9890. Earlier in the year I bought a 1 meter wide cold laminator to mount large prints on sintea for framing. I'm also interested in face mounting and Matt lamination.

I have all my supplies from Drytac, watched all the YouTube vids.

But I'm not sure what is best to set- up for a one man operation.

I have one large table maybe 34x50 I currently use to layout prints after printing. The laminator is heavy, and until now has been on the floor( covered). I did make  bunch of sticky boards that way.

What I'd like to know is how should I have this set up? I can build a stand to bring the lamination bed level with my table. Do I need another table for indeed?

This is for low volume.

Just can't get my head around the set-up for the easiest process.

I will be mounting on sintra, foam core, laminating Matt film to the face of some prints for show. And playing around with acrylic face mounting

Any input would be appreciated
Thanks

Max
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Stephen Ray

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Some shops use readily available wooden doors from their local hardware / lumber stores as table tops. Sturdy tables would be made of solid core doors and the very light, easily movable table tops would me made of hollow core doors. Being a door, they are straight and available in a variety of sizes and many are primed and ready to paint. Very handy.

You may soon realize yourself wanting or needing a light table. You might build that from particle board which you will, at least, paint the inside white and use florescent light fixtures fitted with Chroma 50 tubes. Use white frosted plex to diffuse the light under a 1/4 inch glass top. (Many shops use 4x8 ft light tables.) A light table makes MANY trimming, mounting, framing tasks much easier. Many shops also have these tables mounted on lockable caster wheels.

I hope this helps give you some ideas.
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Richard.Wills

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Max,

I'd build that stand for the laminator - 1/2" higher than (drop to) the out table ( the landing zone). Build it well, on lockable casters, with the ability to fine tune the leveling (non level machines are a pita). That way, you can move it to one side when not in use, and bring it in to play with minimal effort when you want to. Working on the floor is an invitation for dust and back ache, and will stop spur of the moment ideas (an outvitation to creativity?). It'll also leave you with your full table to work on in post. If you're feeling fancy, then design the support to also carry rulers, knives, pens, tapes and the myriad other bits that you like to have within arms reach.

Your LZ is 34x50" - that limits what you can lay up prior to mounting, and trim post-mount. If this fits your working space, then it is good; if you have more space to work, then 8x4' is great for being able to reach around, and having room to rotate smaller work, but for solo mounting, I'd be disinclined to go beyond 30x45", unless you are well above average height, live in a warm dustfree zone, have no pets or body hair....

For a feeding table (and you do want one), we use an old column projector table on casters - similar to http://tinyurl.com/h9hdnzc . This allows us to support the materials going into the laminator, and with a smooth floor, it follows the substrate towards the machine. We set ours 1\8" higher than the in-feed on the laminator. Takes up very little space and makes a handy task table for other activities.

Oh, and you need as much space in front of the machine as you have behind it... A few hours construction, and you'll make the process a lot easier, and greatly up your success rate. And you need to keep the place clean, but you knew that already.

A glass backlit table would be amazing, but I'd take the elements listed above as a higher priority at this (low volume) stage.
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disneytoy

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Richard,  excellent work information! I very much appreciate the t.

Side note:

My first project will be Matt laminate over Epson gloss 250gsm print media mounted to 3 mm sintea with Drytac multitac.

What order should I go?  Laminate the print first, then apply the multitac to the board then the print to the board?

Not sure best practice

Thanks
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stcstc31

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i would always laminate first

and coat the board with the mount film, then stick the two together
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Stephen Crozier

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Richard.Wills

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Same here - set up carrier boards which are larger than your print size, and laminate on to these. Then remove from carrier, trim excess laminate and mount.
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dgberg

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I recently purchased an infeed table from Global Industries. Just roll it out of the way if not needed.
With the addition of the second top the height is perfect.
My smaller 44 Ultra has blocks under the wheels to get it to that perfect height.
I have another one of these Print storage cabinets I  built several years ago for our craft room in the house.
Going to bring it out to the studio to set printers on. Always need another work surface.
« Last Edit: March 24, 2016, 11:11:43 am by Dan Berg »
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disneytoy

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Great info. I'm about to raise the height of my laminator by 10" to match my outfeed table. I have a sheet of melamine alittle narrower than I'd like, but it costs me nothing. Will have to figure out how to mount it
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