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Author Topic: Switching from E-M1 to A7?  (Read 11332 times)

DougB

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Switching from E-M1 to A7?
« on: February 12, 2016, 01:13:17 am »

About a half a year ago I made the decision to switch from my Canon 7D to an E-M1 with Pro lenses (thanks, in part, to advice from members of this forum).

However, the last week or so I’ve had full frame on my mind.

While I really do love the camera and Pro lenses I also purchased, I can’t help but wonder about going full frame. I had shot APS-C for years, with many friends and colleagues shooting full frame. The reason I never switched when I was a Canon shooter was the cost.

After a photographic awakening (thanks to a Canon G16), I decided to go smaller with my next system — enter Micro Four Thirds. It seemed to be the obvious choice as a one-system solution. The size, weatherproofing, speed, amazing lenses … perfect.

After almost seven months of use, I can honestly say I’m very happy with the great IQ I’m getting from my MFT … but I can’t help wondering if there’s not something out there that can help me create even better images.

Enter the Sony A7. I had discounted this option when I decided on MFT because I just didn’t think it was in my price range. And it’s true that with the equivalent lenses and A7 body, it would be more expensive than the equivalent MFT system. But lately I’ve been thinking a lot about which SYSTEM I’m buying into.

My Olympus body is fantastic. While it took a while to figure it out and really bond with it, I can’t say enough good things about it. However, I kind of feel duped realizing I could get a very similarly-sized system through the A7 with 24-70 F4 and 70-200 F4.

I’m at the point where I’ve invested very little in the system at present, other than a few lens filters — not even a spare battery. I also got black market versions, so I could sell my Oly kit at a relatively small financial hit.

While I’d be giving up a great body for a mediocre one, I could start a potentially future-proof lens collection in a surprisingly lightweight system. I’ve been thinking about this a lot the last couple of days, but there’s no clear cut answer. I do have a few questions, if anyone has any input:

1. Is Sony pulling a fast one on us with body size? The A7 is noticeably lighter/smaller than the A7ii. Who thinks future cameras A-series cameras will continue to grow in size/weight? If so, that’s a mark against the Sony.
2. Resale value: Will my Oly and Pro lenses be worth more now or later? How will MFT fare long-term versus Sony’s full frame system?
3. Will Sony’s AF system (current and/or future) hold up to professional use? While I don’t currently shoot professionally, there’s definitely a possibility I’d like to shoot weddings, headshots, or editorial assignments in the future. With the Sony system, it seems like I could have a smallish travel system and a real professional rig all under one roof.
4. Anyone think the price of the A7 will come down further? When is the A7iii expected?

Another option would be to hold onto my Oly system for now and either a) buy an A7ii when the price drops, or b) pray Oly releases a full frame system (because I would totally be down for that).

Anyhow, if you’ve read this far and have any thoughts, I’m all ears. Perhaps the best thing for me to do at this point is to shoot and enjoy the gear I have.
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nma

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Re: Switching from E-M1 to A7?
« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2016, 03:33:18 am »

Doug,

I too covet a full frame, weather proof, camera with a set of excellent lenses. My problem is I can no longer carry them due to an arthritic neck. I had the Canon 5Dii with a set of L-zooms covering from 16-400 mm. I traveled with the gear in a big Pelican case. Like you I bought the E-M1 (and also the E-M5ii) with the 12-40 and the Pany 35-100 and the 60 mm Macro. Same experience as you with image quality; it loses nothing to the 5Dii for prints up to 21x28 inches. Most of my prints are in the 16x20 inch range. Very satisfactory.

You have posed a lot of good questions. Here is another question to answer. Do you print larger than 21x28? If so, you might need full frame. I am also not sure the Sony lenses you mentioned compete well with the Oly lenses. The 24-70 does not seem to be the best performer. Comparing the 70-200 to the Pany 35-100, the Sony is much heavier and the reviews are not great. Will you be satisfied, or tempted to move up to the Sony pro lenses?

I have to admit, that I am very tempted by the Sony AR7ii. I just want it because it is so capable. The specs are fantastic. I could see buying it for use near home, money no object. The beauty of the Oly system is it travels well in a much smaller case.

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Paulo Bizarro

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Re: Switching from E-M1 to A7?
« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2016, 04:06:11 am »

Doug, you forgot to mention what type of photography you do. I tried m43 for a while, and I shoot mostly landscapes/seascapes, and travel/people. I had the EM1 plus a couple of lenses. What bummed me was the poor sensor performance in long exposures, compared to other cameras.

In the meantime, I kept my Canon system (6D and a few lenses), and watched the Alpha 7 system mature. Last year I made a full switch to Sony, getting a used A7 (for a good low price), and an A7II (great camera). I don't know how Sony did it, but these cameras are the same size as the EM1, while providing a much better sensor (for my use). Couple that with the Zeiss Batis and Loxias, and I was convinced (I used to shoot with Zeiss 21 2.8 and 25 2.0 in the Canon).

So, for me, it is the system that hits the sweet spot. For you, only you can decide. IMO, a good m43 camera with good quality lenses, is about the same ballpark price as a good Alpha 7 kit, so it is a no brainer.

Of course, one can get really cheap and good lenses for m43, something which is more difficult to do with the Sony... but once you start thinking Oly Pro lenses, or PanaLeica, the prices are even.

Telecaster

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Re: Switching from E-M1 to A7?
« Reply #3 on: February 12, 2016, 03:34:48 pm »

My advice for anyone in the throes of "full frame" fever: by all means indulge, and either get it out of your system or discover that the 35mm format works well for you.

-Dave-
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AFairley

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Re: Switching from E-M1 to A7?
« Reply #4 on: February 13, 2016, 06:42:24 pm »

My advice for anyone in the throes of "full frame" fever: by all means indulge, and either get it out of your system or discover that the 35mm format works well for you.

-Dave-

Yeah, rent a camera (and the lens you think you'll use) for a week.  My own story was that after being a 4/3 shooter from early on (E520, E30, E5, E-M5) and loved - loved - shooting with the E-M5, once I tried the D800E it was game over, even with the size and weight penalties.
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Eric Brody

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Re: Switching from E-M1 to A7?
« Reply #5 on: February 14, 2016, 03:59:42 pm »

I too suffer from the disease of yearning for something I do not have and THINK might be better. I rented an A7RII with the 50mm f/1.8 to see if I wanted to switch from my fairly complete Fuji X system and concluded I was just fine, thank you very much. Print size plays a role along with the myth of "full frame." As a former 4x5 user, 35mm "full frame" always seemed pretty small. So it's all in the definition. It's true you can't beat physics and all things being equal, bigger is better. The problem is that all things are NOT equal. So, the long and short is that when considering moves that will cost upwards of US$10k, rental is REALLY cheap. Be a big spender, rent for two weeks if that's what it takes. And no, I have no connection to any rental company, except as a paying customer. When you're done, look at prints, not 100% pixel peeps.
Good luck whatever you end up doing. It's supposed to be fun anyway, isn't it?
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Bob Rockefeller

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Re: Switching from E-M1 to A7?
« Reply #6 on: February 14, 2016, 04:07:07 pm »

Doug, you forgot to mention what type of photography you do. I tried m43 for a while, and I shoot mostly landscapes/seascapes, and travel/people. I had the EM1 plus a couple of lenses. What bummed me was the poor sensor performance in long exposures, compared to other cameras.

In the meantime, I kept my Canon system (6D and a few lenses), and watched the Alpha 7 system mature. Last year I made a full switch to Sony, getting a used A7 (for a good low price), and an A7II (great camera). I don't know how Sony did it, but these cameras are the same size as the EM1, while providing a much better sensor (for my use). Couple that with the Zeiss Batis and Loxias, and I was convinced (I used to shoot with Zeiss 21 2.8 and 25 2.0 in the Canon).

So, for me, it is the system that hits the sweet spot. For you, only you can decide. IMO, a good m43 camera with good quality lenses, is about the same ballpark price as a good Alpha 7 kit, so it is a no brainer.

Of course, one can get really cheap and good lenses for m43, something which is more difficult to do with the Sony... but once you start thinking Oly Pro lenses, or PanaLeica, the prices are even.

But don't forget the weight differences if you're after f/2.8 lenses. For those, you'll need Sony's GM lenses and the 24-70mm f/2.8 weight 2 pounds! The M.Zuiko 12-40mm f/2.8 weighs 0.8 pounds.
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Bob Rockefeller
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TonyVentourisPhotography

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Re: Switching from E-M1 to A7?
« Reply #7 on: February 15, 2016, 01:11:58 pm »

I always have that full frame bug.  I have a full frame system and a medium format system.  At the end of the day, I always find I make better images with my E-M1 system.  It allows me to do what I do better.

I really find though ide rather have the smaller and lighter lenses.  Body size is not a HUGE difference. The lenses make a lot more of a difference.   A 70-300, 24-70, and a Macro in M43 fits in a vest pocket.  Full frame versions make me feel like I have a ball and chain around me. 

The lenses close focus way closer than equivalent full frame lenses.  This to my personal shooting (nature, macro) is a huge difference.  Also, the weight of the system allows me to carry other items instead of camera gear and be at the same weight, or just carry less and not be encumbered.  I can stay out in the field longer and enjoy.

Alien Skin Blow Up makes great up-sized images if I need to print larger than 30".  I've done 30" at 5000 ISO from a well shot and prepared file just fine.  For me, the E-M1 just always beats the competition.  Plus its body is the most usable for how I prefer to work.

That being said..I still carry a very large heavy duty carbon tripod with a RRS BH-55.  I find that is the most wonderful place to spend the money on.

It all depends on what it is you shoot, and how you like to shoot.  Bottom line.  My own experiences, and others, may not apply to you personally.  Either way, you won't go wrong with these new cameras!
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capital

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Re: Switching from E-M1 to A7?
« Reply #8 on: February 16, 2016, 03:51:07 am »

Hi Doug,

I have been contemplating something similar, I ran a price check against similar systems with a standard lens to see what my costs would be to buy into a new system, here are the results:

Canon EOS M3 24MP + Canon EF-M 11-22mm f/4-5.6 IS STM Lens | $429 + $399 = $828
Sony A6000 +  Sony 10-18mm f/4 OSS Alpha E-mount Wide-Angle Zoom Lens  | $498 +$748 = $1246
Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark II + Olympus M.ZUIKO Digital ED 7-14mm f/2.8 PRO Lens | $899 + $1099 = $1998
Fujifilm X-Pro2 + Fujifilm XF 10-24mm f/4 R OIS Lens | $1699 + $999 = $2698
Sony A7II + Sony Vario-Tessar T* FE 16-35mm f/4 | $1698 + $1348 = $3046
Nikon D810 + Nikkor 16-35 F/4 | $2797 + $1097 = $3894

I am unsure if there is almost $2000 more value in going with a top end full frame option. nor does the Fuji system pricing seem that great. The only all weather sealed option is the m4/3 system, and has me considering it over the others, especially since it would allow for taking images in more weather conditions. If weather sealing were not an issue, I would probably go with the Canon, since the pricing is so attractive.

If you chose the original A7 model, do recall the mount on the camera is subject to flexing (only the A7r had a full metal connection to the chassis) and there were light leaks reported on long exposures taken during daylight. Not to mention the reduced bit depth lossy compression.
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mediumcool

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Re: Switching from E-M1 to A7?
« Reply #9 on: February 16, 2016, 04:37:19 am »

“… something out there that can help me create even better images.

Define better.
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Bob Rockefeller

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Re: Switching from E-M1 to A7?
« Reply #10 on: February 16, 2016, 06:28:41 am »

Perhaps the best thing for me to do at this point is to shoot and enjoy the gear I have.

That. Spend money on some trips to great places, instead of changing systems.

I wish I had followed my own advice over the years. :(
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Bob Rockefeller
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scooby70

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Re: Switching from E-M1 to A7?
« Reply #11 on: February 16, 2016, 10:36:02 am »

If you chose the original A7 model, do recall the mount on the camera is subject to flexing (only the A7r had a full metal connection to the chassis) and there were light leaks reported on long exposures taken during daylight. Not to mention the reduced bit depth lossy compression.
And it could be that all of these things are complete non issues :D
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BobDavid

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Re: Switching from E-M1 to A7?
« Reply #12 on: February 16, 2016, 11:05:19 pm »

Having shot with MFD, 35mm FF, APS-C, and mft, I prefer mft. The Oly EM-5 II is capable of capturing stunning images, especially with the pro lenses and the fast primes. Of course the big drawback is noise at high ISOs. Fortunately, I mostly shoot at ISO 200.

In high-res mode, it is possible to get clean files up to ISO 800.

I like having a light and comparatively affordable kit. I also prefer a 4:3 aspect ratio over 3:2.

Selecting the right format can be challenging. Maybe I'll buy a used A7r II a few years down the road. I owned an A7 I for a few months. I didn't like the way it handled and I wasn't blown away by its high ISO performance. The A7 II employs the same sensor as the original. I'd opt for the EM-5 II. If you require blazing fast S-AF, the EM-1 is super nice.
« Last Edit: February 16, 2016, 11:16:15 pm by BobDavid »
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Paulo Bizarro

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Re: Switching from E-M1 to A7?
« Reply #13 on: February 17, 2016, 04:10:18 am »

And it could be that all of these things are complete non issues :D

Indeed... I shoot my A7 in long exposures, never had a problem. Never had a problem also with the lossy RAWs.

Dan Wells

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Re: Switching from E-M1 to A7?
« Reply #14 on: February 19, 2016, 04:34:43 pm »

Canon EOS M3 24MP + Canon EF-M 11-22mm f/4-5.6 IS STM Lens | $429 + $399 = $828
Sony A6000 +  Sony 10-18mm f/4 OSS Alpha E-mount Wide-Angle Zoom Lens  | $498 +$748 = $1246
Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark II + Olympus M.ZUIKO Digital ED 7-14mm f/2.8 PRO Lens | $899 + $1099 = $1998
Fujifilm X-Pro2 + Fujifilm XF 10-24mm f/4 R OIS Lens | $1699 + $999 = $2698
Sony A7II + Sony Vario-Tessar T* FE 16-35mm f/4 | $1698 + $1348 = $3046
Nikon D810 + Nikkor 16-35 F/4 | $2797 + $1097 = $3894

At least in my mind (different people will, of course, feel differently about desirable versus undesirable cameras and lenses), these cost comparisons are a little misleading... There are camera bodies in here ranging from "utter junk with no viewfinder at all" to " possibly the world's finest pro DSLR". Similarly, the lenses range from a low-end consumer zoom up to several fully professional options with superb image quality.

The EOS-M3 body, lacking a viewfinder, is an unlikely consideration against the others here. A Fuji X-M2 or a Sony a5100 are more likely competitors for this Canon than an X-Pro 2 or an a7II.

The a6000 body is certainly a lot more camera than the EOS-M3, but it's not in a range with any of the others, either (limited controls, no weathersealing)

The remaining four are all very well-built bodies. Which one you like is absolutely a matter of personal preference. I'd give a few points off to the A7II for partial weathersealing and a less versatile interface, but there are certainly plenty of a7 series fans who'd disagree with me. I'd also note that the Olympus is somewhat lighter than the other pro bodies (it's heavier than the M3, and maybe the a6000, but lighter than the cameras with comparable build), and the Nikon is significantly heavier than the rest.

In terms of image quality, they probably rank:
Olympus
Canon
Sony a6000
Fuji
Sony A7II

Nikon
With the three cameras in italics probably in that order, but quite close in quality (the Fuji's new sensor may even beat the A7II under some conditions). Nothing is going to catch the Nikon with its significant resolution advantage (although it will take a big print to see it). The Olympus (small sensor, low resolution, dynamic range) and Canon (dynamic range, cheap lenses only) are probably well behind the pack.

Many of the lenses are fairly comparable (excellent), but I can't imagine the little Canon (which, by the way, is actually an 11-22 - the 10-18 is an EF-S lens for SLRs) competing with the rest of this group for half the price or less (it's certainly not in the same league for build quality). I'd also worry a little about the Sony 10-18 (certainly build quality, maybe optical quality as well.

Dan
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Bob Rockefeller

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Re: Switching from E-M1 to A7?
« Reply #15 on: February 19, 2016, 05:53:53 pm »

In terms of image quality, they probably rank:
Olympus
Canon
Sony a6000
Fuji
Sony A7II

Nikon
With the three cameras in italics probably in that order, but quite close in quality (the Fuji's new sensor may even beat the A7II under some conditions). Nothing is going to catch the Nikon with its significant resolution advantage (although it will take a big print to see it). The Olympus (small sensor, low resolution, dynamic range) and Canon (dynamic range, cheap lenses only) are probably well behind the pack.

Are you looking to fire up the Olympus fans? :)
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Dan Wells

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Re: Switching from E-M1 to A7?
« Reply #16 on: February 20, 2016, 05:14:31 pm »

I give Olympus a LOT of well-deserved credit for the smallest and lightest pro bodies around (and make no mistake, the E-M1 and E-M5 II ARE pro bodies), for a bunch of great lenses (mixed in with quite a few mediocre ones, but anything they designate PRO is superb, as are some of the primes), and for one of the two sets of 'best designed cameras and lenses around" - the other one is Fuji. If cost, lens selection and image quality were out of the picture, photographers would argue between Olympus and Fuji endlessly as to what's more pleasant to shoot with, but those two would probably take 80% of the votes between them! Olympus adds "Hand of God" image stabilization to this - there's very little stabilized quite as well as an upper-end Olympus (although some newer lens-based systems come close, and some of the long telephotos may even equal it) - nothing else will stabilize a 50 year old Leica M lens like that, though!

One really interesting way to look at the size and weight advantage - four of capital's six systems offer a 24-70 or 24-80 equivalent f2.8 pro-quality zoom. All four are excellent lenses (well, no real tests on the Sony G-master yet, but preliminary results are very encouraging).  There is no Canon mirrorless lens in that range (no high-end Canon mirrorless lenses exist at all), and the Sony Zeiss 16-70 (APS-C) is a stop slower than the others and not up to the same standard.

Olympus E-M5 mk II (14.4 ozs) or E-M1 (17 ozs) with Olympus 12-40 f2.8 PRO (14 ozs). Even with the E-M1, the total weight is under 2 lbs, and the lens takes a 62mm filter!

Fuji X-Pro 2 (17 ozs) and Fujinon 16-55 f2.8 (23 ozs). 2.5 lbs, 77 mm, unstabilized (neither body nor lens) - note that Fuji makes a very nice stabilized 18-55 f2.8-4 that is significantly lighter - not QUITE in the same optical quality range as the others, but fairly close). Choosing the Fujinon 18-55 f2.8-4, a compromise in aperture and weather sealing gets the Fuji into the same weight range as the Olympus.

Sony A7II (20 ozs)and Sony G-Master 24-70 f2.8 (31 ozs). 3.25 lbs, 82mm filter size.

Nikon D810 (31 ozs) and Nikkor 24-70 f2.8 VR (37 ozs). 4.25 lbs, 82mm filter size.

Add multiple lenses and the weight discrepancy gets larger between full frame and smaller formats - an A7II body weighs less than 1.5 times as much as an E-M1, but most of the lenses are more than twice as heavy as their Micro 4/3 equivalent (with Fuji somewhere in the middle). The advantage of Sony FE over FF DSLRs also declines - the lenses are similar in size and weight, and there are numerous focal lengths where Canon or Nikon have significantly lighter options (often with some other disadvantage). The half pound of body weight difference disappears as you add lenses.

Unfortunately, image quality runs more or less counter to compactness. If someone developed a Micro 43 sensor with the noise and dynamic range characteristics of a full-frame sensor, it would be child's play to build a full-frame sensor that was effectively FOUR of them, giving twice the linear resolution with the same noise and DR characteristics.

Right now, the sweet spot in sensor design seems to be the newest generation of Sony 24 MP APS-C sensors (Fuji X-Pro 2 and Sony a6300 - no DSLRs yet, but I suspect we'll see some this year) and the 42 MP full-frame sensor in the A7rII, which has a similar pixel pitch and also uses copper wiring and other newer manufacturing methods (the 42 MP sensor is also BSI, mainly to deal with lens compatibility, rather than improve IQ). These sensors seem to have a generational improvement in per-pixel characteristics over the earlier generation 24 MP sensors and the 36 MP full-frame sensor (although the 36 MP sensor uses superior resolution to come in ahead of the best 24 MP APS-C sensors in overall image quality). A Micro 43 sensor of similar pixel pitch would only be in the 10-12 MP range, which the market doesn't seem to want, so all Micro 43 sensors use smaller pixel pitch (with a resulting decline in dynamic range and increase in noise) to achieve 16-20 MP. When technology permits a 16-20 MP Micro 43 sensor that doesn't compromise noise or DR, it'll also be possible to make a ~36 MP APS-C sensor and a 64-80 MP full-frame sensor with the same technology.

At least to my eye, maximum print sizes run as follows (the bigger the print, the farther you view it from, so it scales a little differently than you might expect). I'm a landscape photographer, so other disciplines may also find this scaling different:

16 MP Micro 43: 12x18 on high detail subjects, 16x20 on most subjects, as large as 20x30 for a certain kind of highly atmospheric image.

16 MP Fuji: 16x24 on high detail subjects, 24x36 on some,but not all images.

Really good 24 MP (24 MP full frame, almost certainly the new 24 MP APS-C):  24x36 on most subjects

36 MP (I've never used the 42 MP A7rII, which I'm sure goes larger still): Significantly above 24x36 - how big is your printer?!!

Another important consideration is lens selection:

Truly complete systems (anything is available, including exotic telephotos out to 800 mm and multiple tilt-shift lenses): only Canon and Nikon full-frame - Canon and Nikon APS-C can use the full-frame lenses, so the whole range is out there at the cost of needlessly heavy lenses and some odd fields of view, both in primes and in zooms starting and stopping in unexpected places (a 24-70 has no wide angle capability on APS-C). These also have the widest selection of rental options, including big-city camera shops.

Essentially complete systems (everything EXCEPT a few exotic lenses): Fuji and Micro 43 (especially with a stabilized Olympus body). Both have most options you might want, with multiple choices at many focal lengths - neither has the oddest lenses available for the two big systems (tilt/shift, fast extreme telephoto, manufacturer fisheye (both have Samyang/Rokinon fisheyes, though)). Micro 43 has an advantage in affordable lenses, while Fuji has an advantage at the high end - either one is quite comprehensive. Significant rental availability, almost entirely online.

Adequate systems (wide selection, but depends on adapted lenses or lenses built for a different format): Canon and Nikon APS-C (using FF lenses), Leica M (very comprehensive within rangefinder limits), Sony FE (especially the A7rII with its full functionality with adapted lenses). Sony could really help their cause here with Sony-branded adapters. The brand-new Sigma Canon-mount adapter is a great start - there is finally an adapter that can be bought in camera stores, rather than primarily through eBay. Does anyone know if that adapter maintains the weathersealing? If you're willing to mess with adapters, the A7rII is the only camera that will mix and match Canon and Nikon glass at full performance...

Limited Systems (check and make sure the lenses you want are available and meet your quality standards): Pentax (both FF and APS-C), Nikon 1, Sony APS-C, Sony FE bodies that perform poorly with adapted lenses.

Dangerously Limited Systems (likely to be discontinued, limited selection and/or limited availability):  Samsung NX, Canon Mirrorless (may expand with new bodies),  Sigma SA (actually a surprising number of lenses "available", but no distribution - most are special orders even at B+H), Leica mounts other than M

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capital

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Re: Switching from E-M1 to A7?
« Reply #17 on: February 20, 2016, 10:36:08 pm »

Dan, I like your detailed break down of the different formats and capabilities.

It would be wonderful if m43 did everything but it doesn't. I recall Michael Reichmann did a post several years back about his then current Canon G10 p&s comparing it against his rather expensive MFD system, the results from those who looked at them suggested the G10 and P45+ were comparable at the rather moderate print size (I think it was little less than 13x19), the largest difference being depth of field and perhaps color rendition. Fast forward now, we have m43 which is even better quality-wise relative to the G10 and has very nice IBIS, weight and weather-sealing advantages, making it very attractive for certain applications. The allure of larger formats will always be there, whether it is for practical or emotional reasons is another thing.
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nma

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Re: Switching from E-M1 to A7?
« Reply #18 on: February 21, 2016, 04:31:45 pm »

It seems to me that the horse has been beaten to death. If you print really big, even the best Nikon or Sony is not going to be good enough; you need 8x10 or at least MFD. The FF pro bodies with the best lenses are essentially flying submarines. They can do an excellent job at most things but also at the cost of being unnecessary and unwieldy for most things. The Olympus M43 camera with Pro bodies and lenses are an interesting compromise. They can't do everything as well as FF done right. But I happen to think that there are a lot of Lula members  have bought the Kool Aid and gone full frame (just in case) but do not ever print their own photos. Instead, they are mainly interested in electronic viewing where they currently do not make use of the IQ of their cameras. It would be interesting to know what fraction of Lula members have printed, say in the last year, a photo larger than 13x19. Thoughts?
« Last Edit: February 21, 2016, 05:17:11 pm by nma »
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Denis de Gannes

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Re: Switching from E-M1 to A7?
« Reply #19 on: February 21, 2016, 05:00:14 pm »

It seems to me that the horse has been to death. If you print really big, even the best Nikon or Sony is not going to be good enough; you need 8x10 or at least MFD. The FF pro bodies with the best lenses are essentially flying submarines. They can do an excellent job at most things but also at the cost of being unnecessary and unwieldy for most things. The Olympus M43 camera with Pro bodies and lenses are an interesting compromise. They can't do everything as well as FF done right. But I happen to think that there are a lot of Lula members  have bought the Kool Aid and gone full frame (just in case) but do not ever print their own photos. Instead, they are mainly interested in electronic viewing where they currently do not make use of the IQ of their cameras. It would be interesting to know what fraction of Lula members have printed, say in the last year, a photo larger than 13x19. Thoughts?
I agree my printer can print to a max of 13x19 and I get excellent prints with my EM1 and also from the files from my E 510 and E 300 using Qimage Ultimate for printing ensuring premium quality output.
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