"I could go on but I won’t. The point is that both these photographs represent a tired and worn cliché of female representation. But it’s not that they objectify women in the most crass way possible. It’s that their execution is actually not that great. Both photographs demonstrate a voyeuristic and salacious approach and one has to wonder what exactly the brief from the art director was. The results can certainly lay no claim to originality."
Perhaps time to catch up on at least part of the OP.
The man is entitled to his opinion, but reading the above quotation makes me think he's not very familiar with the genre beyond the level of jus' lookin' which is not a place from which to pontificate.
Fashion (in magazines, at any rate) has a language. You speak or you do not. It was ever so, decades before and even during my own start within it in the 60s, and while the prose changes somewhat, the grammar remains.
Testino is hardly one I would hold up as a great fashion photographer; he does a great deal of it, but in my view, he's a personality/celebrity shooter which is something else, quite apart from his being a celebrity himself. In the same way, I see Annie as being a sister of his, which isn't a surprise when you consider where and how she cut her teeth.
But in both cases, I think they speak their own language very well and clearly; they are masters of the big production.
As for the two images being clichés, finding anything today that's not one is a miracle; the best you can hope for is a fresh face or a better technique, the pursuit of the latter leading to the PS atrocities found everywhere...
Helmut Newton and fashion today? I agree. As far as I remember, his fashion partnership with Karl ended when the latter began to tell Helmut what he wanted rather than let him be, and get on with it. Newton was in the 'million bucks a year club', and his response seems to have been to suggest Karl do it himself, which he did. To me, it's quite understandable: two artists working together are bound to shipwreck in the end, which is why so few 'artistic' partnerships, not based on love/sex survive very long.
Rob