Hi Landscapes,
OK, this is more in line with the question I had in the beginning. I also only use Epson Exhibition matte canvas. Are you talking about when you printed the target file on canvas, you coated the canvas with your mixture and then had a profile made? Please explain in more detail. Very important to me.
Gar
Yes... exactly right. Print out the target with your settings, no color correction, and then coat. For me, I tested all the different settings and found that Special 6 works best. Special 6-10 uses the matte black, which you need, and it lays down the least ink. I looked at some of the other settings like watercolor or matte canvas, and those actually used considerably more ink, maybe 20-30% more, and some of the patches I ran, the darks didn't have enough seperation. Darks are still in issue with canvas I would say though. The other things about special 6 is that it allows you to use 3mm margins. Other paper types have restrictions on feeding sheets and all that jazz, but special 6 seemed most free.
So I printed up the targets using special 6, high quality, no color correction. Then sprayed the targets as I would my canvas, 2 heavy coats, and shipped it off. Was only $25 at inkjetart which I think is now IT supplies and I think they still do profiles for $25. Since its canvas, you have to use their heavy media targets since its a different machine they use, not as many patches, so you only print out 2 sheets versus 3, which would be their higher end spectro I think.
If I change my coating to be more glossy than matte, I still use the same profile and it comes out just as good. Also, sometimes I use a Simply Elegant canvas, and this turns out fairly close as well, but there might be differences of course since the white of the canvas is different. But the biggest thing is that the profile is made after the coating. The coating itself is perhaps even less than 95% reflective, so you've losing 5% of the light, which means everything is 5% darker already after the coating.
