Best way to ship 17x22 prints flat

[disneytoy]

Hi guys!

I have to ship a large order of 17x22" prints on Epson WC paper 310 gsm. about 50 prints. I usually ship larger prints in a tube. I was thinking of shipping these flat. This is heavy paper.

Any tips on wrapping these to make it with out damage? luckily they are only going about 200 miles. Most likely USPS Express Mail.

Thanks!

Maxi

[rdonson]

I've never shipped 50 sheets of 17x22.  I do ship 4-5 17x22 prints.  I put them in clear bags and sandwich then in foam core then I take them to my local "PostNet" and they take care of the final packaging and shipping.  I haven't have a problem doing things this way.

[hugowolf]

I have shipped large quantities of the same size print, usually in used paper boxes, then within another box. Both FedeX and UPS will do double boxing if you turn up at a store. It is a lot cheaper if you have a business account with them, maybe a third of the usual rate.

17" x 22" probably doesn't count as over-sized. 24" x 36" definitely does, when double boxed.

For really important prints, going to archival departments at universities, I will sometimes use a sheet of plywood or corrugated plastic as a stiffener. You really want to avoid corners getting dented in.

(About one of three packs of 24” x 36” sheets, from paper suppliers, arrive at my studio with dented corners. They go straight back, but it is a hassle, especially if you are trying to keep stockpiles lean. Hahnemühle’s packing is particularly poor, Canson less so.)

Brian A

[disneytoy]

Yikes, I know that too well. I have terrible luck with 44" rolls ofcepson watercolor paper. There usually is a dent the repeats all the way through the core. So even a light crinkle every 12 inches or so.

[Ernst Dinkla]

Hi guys!

I have to ship a large order of 17x22" prints on Epson WC paper 310 gsm. about 50 prints. I usually ship larger prints in a tube. I was thinking of shipping these flat. This is heavy paper.

Any tips on wrapping these to make it with out damage? luckily they are only going about 200 miles. Most likely USPS Express Mail.

Thanks!

Maxi

I use recycled pallet sheets; 100x120 cm 3.3'x4' 2 layer heavy corrugated carton. Cut them on the board cutter to desired strokes that are glued with simple PVA wood glue to large crosses so the direction of the corrugation waves crosses too, heavy piece of wood on top for 2 hours. Depending on the print quantity, sizes, journeys, there can be more layers and the construction more complex. Usually I add 2" extra to the carton size compared to the print size. With the approx 0.5 inch thickness of your print stack I would add more and fill those sides with some carton strokes too. The prints packed tightly in PE foil, taped at the edges to the inner carton. The total package wrapped in bubble foil to keep moisture out. The nice aspect of this method is that the package can be simple for small prints that are collected by the customer and made stronger but still light in weight for other trips.

Met vriendelijke groet, Ernst

http://www.pigment-print.com/spectralplots/spectrumviz_1.htm
December 2014 update, 700+ inkjet media white spectral plots

[Mark Lindquist]

About the only way I would ship (50) 17 x 22 Flat Prints would be to start with the original paper box, (if I had it).  If not, find one or make one.  Cover with Visqueen or plastic wrap if you're concerned about moisture.  Don't if you're shipping to humid climate.

These are the following steps:

1.  I'd use insulating foam air conditioning type sheets - the foil backed heavier foam about 1/2" thick and make matching sheets to the original box top and bottom.

2.  Side walls of same material around the perimeter of the stack either one or two layers thick - optional.

3.  3/4" Plywood or pine around the perimeter glued and screwed at corners.

4.  1/4" - 1/2" (optional) luan or birch plywood glued and brad-nailed to bottom, same for top but no glue and screwed only.

5.  Attach lifting handles of whatever choice on ends of box with large "UP arrows" on sides of crate.  Also, "DO NOT LAY FLAT" stenciled or written on top and bottom sides of the crate. The idea is to try to make it easy for them to keep the crate upright.

I like the "package tight" so nothing can move around.  The layered corners should be able to take a hit, as should the top and bottom, provided no one puts a fork lift fork through it, which can happen.

I've shipped many crates this way with no damage.

Given that even the smallest amount of damage to just one corner of a stack of paper would ruin the entire job, I would over-kill the  complete packing.  Since a damaged corner can wreck the project - I like the crate tight, so that it is completely obvious, if significant damage occurs to break through the crate.

I'm not a fan of floating materials in boxes when it comes to heavy weights.  Just my experience over the years.  YMMV.

-Mark