Japan was a total failure (even though I'm still here).
It was a long weekend, so Friday-Monday brought out huge crowds anywhere I wanted to shoot, and the clouds never lifted, making it overcast the whole time. Monday was a public holiday, meaning that many things - even parks - were closed.
In addition, for the whole time I've been/will be in Tokyo, tonight is the only evening forecast to have any chance of a sunset (rain/clouds every other day). Which is unseasonable for this time of the year. Unfortunately, being the day after a long weekend, all the high points I wanted to shoot from are closed (since they normally close on a Monday, which was already a public holiday this week). Even the parks were closed today.
Finally, the autumn leaves came early this year - most of them in every area had already fallen by the time I got there.