borderless mounting on foam core

[stever]

I've been borderless mounting to foam core (both standard and acid free) with 3m photo mount for many years.  I always apply the adhesive to both print and board following the directions (spraying in both directions to insure full coating of edges).  Recently a number of prints mounted 5-10 years ago are de-laminating at the corners.

Is this to be expected?

Any recommendation for glue to stick down the corners and save some of my existing prints?

Any tips or alternative recommendations that don't require a big investment (prints up to 17x25 and some panoramas to 36 in wide) ?

[Paul2660]

Yes, sadly the 3M photo mount will pull back over time. 

If you are mounting RC paper, it may happen faster as the RC backing never really gels with the 3M spray. 

3M photo mount is very very low tack, it's designed to allow for re positioning an image.  I have moved to Elmers extra strength spray when I do this type of mount.  So far it seems to hold a bit better. 

You can also use Scotch super 77, which is stronger than 3M photo mount. 

Elmers is acid free also.

Paul

[John V.]

Maybe look at this type of thing http://www.lexjet.com/p-1120-LexJet-GraphicMount-Clear-Adhesive.aspx

I've use it with cotton/fiber papers. Couldn't say for photopapers.

[BobShaw]

I guess that's one of the reasons why prints are framed behind glass.
Anything exposed to the elements is a short term thing.
I generally use self adhesive foam core. Nothing seems to move then.

[stever]

Can you recommend an adhesive foam core?  I had some prints professionally mounted with adhesive foam core 15 years ago, and they have held up.  I haven't found the material readily available.

How do you bring a larger (11x17 +) print in to contact reasonably square to the adhesive foam core?  Using the photo mount as contact adhesive, I put some 3/8 dia dowels on the board, lay down the print and adjust, then remove the dowels starting in the center.  Will this work with the adhesive foam core?

[dgberg]

Its very easy.
Start with a print 1/4" larger then your board.
Fold back 1" of the adhesive cover then line your print up on the exposed adhesive and press your print on the exposed adhesive.
Now just pull your liner off under the print pressing your print down evenly as you go.
I use a laminator but it can be done very easy on the small ones by hand.
Flip your mounted print over and trim the bleed with a razor.
Very simple and takes less then 5 minutes.

[Simon J.A. Simpson]

I had exactly the same problem with an exhibition some years ago.  In the heat and humidity of Turkey I had prints falling off the walls !

The problem lies with the Foamcore which gives-off a chemical which reacts with the adhesive causing it to lose its effectiveness over time.  I discovered this after extensive dialogues with 3M and the manufacturer of Foamcore.  This is, of course, exacerbated by heat and humidity.

The recommended solution from 3M was to try one of their stronger spray adhesives such as that used for fixing carpets, sometimes called ‘Adhesive 77’, which should resist the deprecations of the Foamcore.  Other alternatives have already been mentioned in this post.

[PeterAit]

I have had good results mounting paper and canvas to Gatorboard using Miracle Muck. I haven't tried RC paper, though.

1.   Make print with at least a small border.
2.   Cut GB a little bit larger than the print.
3.   Put print facedown on a clean, flat surface and dust the back with a brush.
4.   Apply MM to back of print.
5.   Position GB on print and press down with fingers.
6.   Flip over and cover the face of the print with clean kraft paper
7.   Use a brayer to ensure the print is adhered to the board all over.
8.   After drying, use a straight edge and box cutter to trim edges.