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Author Topic: Five days in Havana  (Read 7904 times)

David Watson

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Five days in Havana
« on: May 04, 2015, 04:41:17 pm »

Well Michael you don't need to apologise in any way for having an option or being biased.  In fact one of the great aspects of this site is that you get to read interesting opinions written by interesting people.

I spent 10 days in Cuba 2 years ago precisely because I wanted to see it before the borders opened and it all changed - for the better?  I don't know.  What I do know is that I agree totally with you Michael - my heart ached for the Cuban people.  Not so much for their lack of commercial opportunity or their failure to have the latest iPhone (and even if they had it they couldn't use it) but for the fact that they were fundamentally so nice - and I worried that the lure of money would change that.  I guess that there must be a place where economic activity and a happy well cared for people exist in harmony but I have yet to see it - at least where it works for everyone.

Here are some of my images of "commercial" activity in Cuba.

 
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LesPalenik

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Re: Five days in Havana
« Reply #1 on: May 04, 2015, 05:10:52 pm »

Quote
Today, beneath the nostalgic facade of shiny 1950’s Chevy Belairs, and a healthy and educated population, lies a capital city that looks in parts like Dresden after the fire bombings of WWII.

Michael, your Cuban essay goes well with the pictures, and the comparison with bombed-out Dresden is very fitting. That was also my immediate impression when I saw some of the derelict buildings in Havana. I was in Dresden in 1970, and at that time I couldn't believe all the carnage and ruined buildings there, fully twenty five years after the war ended.

Seeing the many once-beautiful buildings in Havana crumbling and collapsing is heart-breaking and even more difficult to fathom.

« Last Edit: May 05, 2015, 12:15:23 am by LesPalenik »
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paulbk

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Re: Five days in Havana
« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2015, 08:14:06 pm »

Great eye Michael.
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paul b.k.
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ValerieMillett

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Re: Five days in Havana
« Reply #3 on: May 06, 2015, 10:40:52 am »

Love the article and insights, beautiful images!
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Valerie Millett
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Dennis Jones

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Re: Five days in Havana
« Reply #4 on: May 06, 2015, 04:47:29 pm »

Yes, my country has often times acted as a petulant child toward Cuba. And the Florida/Cuban right wing is rabid about the issue. But reading a very fascinating book, After Fidel, written by Brian Latell, a former CIA analyst who spent his life studying Fidel and Raul, you come to realize that they both share significant blame in causing the shape of US policy over these past decades. Beautiful images Michael. Thank you for sharing.
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JackWinberg

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Re: Five days in Havana
« Reply #5 on: May 06, 2015, 08:24:54 pm »

WONDERFUL article, Michael, thanks so much.

I was last in Cuba in 2012, will return for a week on May 22nd, and am very eager to see it all again.

"My heart is with the Cuban people" - echos my heartfelt sentiments exactly.  In 2012 limited commercial activity had just been authorized, venders sprang up everywhere, and the people were as you describe, open, friendly, and welcoming.  I will be most interested to see if those venders have flourished, I certainly hope so.  This is an art-centric trip, I hope to see, and bring back, some wonderful things, in addition to my images.

Thank you for putting YOUR heart into this piece............ Jack Winberg
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gitaahs

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Re: Five days in Havana
« Reply #6 on: May 07, 2015, 03:12:30 pm »

It's hard not to feel a certain nostalgia for an earlier Cuba when looking at photos of the buildings in disrepair, the lack of diversity in all manner of commodities, and the insulation of the Cuban people from a free information flow that we all enjoy.  And, like you, I hope desperately for better days for the Cuban people.  Unfortunately, it can't all be rectified or set back on course by turning back the calendar and hitting a reset button.  Neither of the eras that preceded Communism could possibly serve as successful models for how to reshape Cuba.  The island would be transformed into yet another country that the Cuban people couldn't benefit from or truly enjoy having a stake in.

It's really up to Raoul Castro and whoever to manage the transition in an exceedingly patient, careful manner so that the influx of capital and technology actually serves the priorities of the Cuban people.  They really do deserve more than a rebirth of the country as someone else's playground.
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JackWinberg

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Re: Five days in Havana
« Reply #7 on: May 07, 2015, 08:06:23 pm »

One of our group was given a very hard time about bringing back some art, which most of us had happily acquired.  It took the intervention of the group leader to get them finally passed through.   We attrubuted that to one overzealous customs agent.

Jack Winberg
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Philmar

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Re: Five days in Havana
« Reply #8 on: May 11, 2015, 05:37:31 pm »

As a frequent visitor to Cuba I was both happy and sad when I heard Obama was restarting diplomatic ties with Cuba. I was happy for the Cuban people who suffered horribly and needlessly by the senseless punitive policies of many foolish American administrations. For years corrupt murderous Central American dictatorships were supported, yet Castro was held forth as a maniacal evil leader. American was doing big business with Communist countries in Vietnam and China yet Cuba was claimed to be a pariah state that needed to be punished. Hopefully the Cuban people will see yet more improvement to their economic status as the embargo ends. I was also sad though because I knew it was the end of a unique place. A place that time had placed in a capsule. There is no mass culture in Cuba - no cable TV with hundreds of channels, no stores of glossy magazines or newspapers. Cubans spend there time outdoors whereas North Americans and Europeans retreat to their TV sets at night behinds closed doors. Cubans take to the streets to visit family, friends and neighbors and know the art of being able to make conversation - truth is they have little else to do. People don't fritter their time away at malls but rather in the company of friends laughing joking, dancing, singing. It seems overly romantic but it is true. They can start and sustain a conservation with strangers they meet waiting in line for a bus that may never come. We struggle to talk to strangers. No doubt big changes are comoing to Cuba and selfishly I wish they wouldn't  - I'd love for this place to be the same for my own personal amusement but luckily for them this embargo should bring about needed economic improvement. I bid you farewell Cuba - land of no shopping malls, idiotic advertisements and commercial music.
fun times on the streets of Old Havana by Phil Marion, on Flickr

Hola amigo by Phil Marion, on Flickr

tobacco fields and fog - Vinales, Cuba by Phil Marion, on Flickr

Havana high school students hanging out after school in front of El Capitolio by Phil Marion, on Flickr

recycling - Havana, Cuba by Phil Marion, on Flickr

Vinales, Cuba by Phil Marion, on Flickr

Havana, Cuba by Phil Marion, on Flickr

Elderly woman of Vinales, Cuba by Phil Marion, on Flickr



ndevlin

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Re: Five days in Havana
« Reply #9 on: May 14, 2015, 06:45:52 am »


Beautiful work Phil...and you express my sentiments precisely.

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Robert Roaldi

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Re: Five days in Havana
« Reply #10 on: May 14, 2015, 01:20:36 pm »

I know very little about Cuba, but you all might enjoy the historical novel Cuba Libre by the late Elmore Leonard.
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ednazarko

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Lovely works of a lovely people
« Reply #11 on: May 17, 2015, 09:03:58 am »

I've been to Cuba twice, two weeks each time, and loved each trip.  I found the people to be more open than anyone would think - I've heard a number of very cogent (and unhappy but accepting) explanations of how the current repressive regime has stayed in power.  (The best one, and one most frequently heard, revolves around rum and condoms, and I'll leave it there.)  No doubt for me that the US and Cuban governments share blame for the falling out but as someone who's traveled to a few dozen countries, I've learned that governments are not always the best expression of the people who are governed.  Yes, I've met a few who resented the well sneakered and digitally kitted out tourists, but more frequently I met people who were proud of what they had, and not resentful for what they didn't have.

I've traveled to a lot of tropical countries, and what you see in Cuba's decaying physical infrastructure is perfectly characteristic of what every tropical country would look like if it lacked the capital to do upkeep.  Trips through Cambodia, Vietnam, Sri Lanka, even Puerto Rico, will show you that a lot of Cuba's "bombed out" look is simply how mold, rot, and tropical weather take their toll on infrastructure.  The phenomenal investments of the Spanish and then the American gambling kings and gangsters built up an infrastructure that is spectacular to look at, but at the same time, costly to maintain.  What's unique about Cuba (and Puerto Rico) is the crazy color that underpins the decay.  Photographer heaven.

My favorite memory kind of sums it up.  Was in one of those lovely franken-car convertibles riding down the Malecon with three other photographers.  Two sitting up on the back, one standing, another holding a camera down over the side at almost street level, all shooting away - no one sitting nicely in our seats.  Suddenly we're at a traffic light and notice that right in front of us is an old wood-sided truck FULL of police.  The driver of our car went into a mild panic - he's supposed to keep his passengers under control.  We were panicked - we thought we were in for an unpleasant lecture at best.  What happened instead was the truck full of police convulsed with laughter, both at how foolish we looked, and how frightened we looked.  And for the remainder of the red light, they posed for us in various ways both threatening and hilariously goofy, and when the light changed, they motioned sternly for us to sit down, and waved goodbye.

People are people.  Cubans are poor in material things but rich in spirit, which makes them such wonderful photographic subjects.  I've been to many countries rich in material things but poor in spirit, and that makes for poor photography.
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AnthonyM

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Re: Five days in Havana
« Reply #12 on: May 18, 2015, 02:05:02 pm »

Great photos, Phil.

But I am not entirely in tune with all your comments.

I was there at the end of last year.  I rented a car (a Chinese Geeley) and drove around half of the country.  We stayed mostly in Casas Particulares (what in the UK we would call B&Bs, bed and breakfast, except that they also offer dinner).  So we could communicate with people in their own homes, with no state spies around.  There is a yearning for freedom.  One day we went on a boat trip.  Our hostess said she would not be allowed on that boat - the government banned it because of fear that people might escape.  Another hostess asked if we had liked the fish she had cooked for us for last night's dinner (we did).  "It was illegal.  The fishermen are only allowed to sell fish to the government. But we Cubans find a way".

Cuba's poverty is a result of the policies of its government over more than half a century.  Until Raul took over, it was illegal for a Cuban to employ anyone but a family member.  How can an economy grow if employment by businesses is banned?

But now things are loosening up.  Restaurants are allowed, and sometimes really good meals are available.  This restaurant in Trinidad has been furnished from second hand shops, and the (Cuban) owner is training his staff to apply western standards of service and quality.  The food is cooked on the 19th century range - and was delicious.  Of course, only foreigners could afford it.  But it is essential that Cubans re-learn how to be part of the modern world.


The US embargo is stupid, and has actually helped the Castros to maintain their tyranny.  But the real cause of Cuban poverty is Castro's insane policies.

I hope that the Cuban people will be allowed time to adapt to the modern world, from which their government has excluded them.



« Last Edit: May 18, 2015, 02:06:36 pm by Londoner »
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Jlister

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Re: Five days in Havana
« Reply #13 on: June 01, 2015, 04:01:34 pm »

How do you get permission to go to Cuba from the USA?  I am a proffesional Photographer but not a journalist.  I would like to go with my wife for a few days to do portraits of the locals.  Anyone who has done this recently I would appreciate any feedback. 
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David Watson

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Re: Five days in Havana
« Reply #14 on: June 01, 2015, 04:14:10 pm »

Hi

the great thing about going to Cuba is that they are pragmatic about these issues.. cuban visas are not stamps in your passport but two part pieces of paper.  All you need to do is to fly somewhere that has direct access to Cuba e.g. the UK and get a visa.  Various travel agents offer facilities and services to do this.  Audley Travel in the UK are an example.  The other option is to book a dedicated educational or photographic tour. e.hg http://www.cubaphotographytours.com.

Go before the rush.
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David Watson ARPS

Jlister

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Re: Five days in Havana
« Reply #15 on: June 01, 2015, 06:31:54 pm »

Great Thanks so much!
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