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 51 
 on: August 27, 2016, 04:10:27 PM 
Started by Doug Gray - Last post by digitaldog
You could take a crop, instead of resizing, and measure before and after denoising.
I could, IF the crop represented the all the colors in the image I wanted to plot. That's rarely the case. So yeah, if I had say a gray card, fine. If I had an image of say a Macbeth Color Checker, nope.

 52 
 on: August 27, 2016, 04:05:55 PM 
Started by Doug Gray - Last post by BartvanderWolf
All I can state is that when I plot the gamut of images in ColorThink Pro, it's impossible to do so on full resolution data (at least from my 5DMII) and I usually resort to something like 300x300 pixels. Resampling a large image down that much reduces a lot of noise.

Hi Andrew,

You could take a crop, instead of resizing, and measure before and after denoising.

Cheers,
Bart

 53 
 on: August 27, 2016, 03:50:58 PM 
Started by Doug Gray - Last post by digitaldog
All I can state is that when I plot the gamut of images in ColorThink Pro, it's impossible to do so on full resolution data (at least from my 5DMII) and I usually resort to something like 300x300 pixels. Resampling a large image down that much reduces a lot of noise.

 54 
 on: August 27, 2016, 03:34:01 PM 
Started by straightbanana - Last post by straightbanana
These are the shots this evening.

I thought it best to show them side by side from Lightroom, though I use Phocus predominantly and export to tiff due to any hot pixels get taken care of in Phocus.

That said, I can totally correct this issue in Lightroom with the shadow setting and a circular grad filter, but then I have the odd random hot pixel.

Could it be the sensor or the 50mm lens?
I'm leaning toward the lens.

Where could I get this thing cleaned in Sweden for a reasonable price?
Normally I'd get this done by Luton Camera repairs in the UK but I've moved to Sweden. (Home of the Hasselblad ;-)

 55 
 on: August 27, 2016, 03:33:14 PM 
Started by bluekorn - Last post by bluekorn
Hello, I'm wondering if anyone has had experience dealing with a firm known as Quickndone, a top rated Ebay seller out of Canada. They are selling the Panasonic 12-35 and the 35-100 at very attractive prices for the pair, some $600.00 less than B&H. Has anyone purchased from the grey market that might have insights? Thank you.

 56 
 on: August 27, 2016, 03:21:52 PM 
Started by straightbanana - Last post by straightbanana
First thing I need to clear up. I've now checked my film shots and I am mistaken there are no flares on any of the film shots I can see, though I nearly always shoot with the 80mm anyway so I probably only had maybe one or two with the 50mm which is why I thought I remember a film shot having this issue, typically I now can;t find them.

OK I just popped out to shoot directly into the sun with all of my lenses at all f stops, including slightly off angle, but still facing the sun.

The 250mm has no orange flare at all f stops.
The 150mm has no orange flare at all f stops.
The 80mm has slight lens flare at f8 and above. Though the kind of flare is the expected type and not this weird orange halo type, with the 50mm.
The 50mm has flare at all f stops most pronounced at f11 above and worse at f22.

 57 
 on: August 27, 2016, 02:35:12 PM 
Started by BobShaw - Last post by NancyP
Depending on the increase in dynamic range, I could have a bit of GAS for this. What I really need is a brain upgrade.

 58 
 on: August 27, 2016, 02:34:45 PM 
Started by N80 - Last post by N80
I've asked this question in the Yahoo QTR forums and have gotten no answer there either. Tried making a print with one of the provided generic curves (labeled as 'raw neutral') and got no better results than with Epson ABW. A good bit worse in fact.

So this means that if there are no shared or tradable curves out there for the R2400 for various photo papers then QTR will not be of much value without the ability to make my own curves.

 59 
 on: August 27, 2016, 02:31:30 PM 
Started by lowep - Last post by N80
I am not suggesting using desaturation as a good way of B&W conversion - only to say that if you really think it's a good idea to use HSL slider after your image is B&W, you can certainly do so in Lr. In that case, you would avoid the B&W panel, desaturate, and then use HSL to fine tune the conversion.

I guess I'm still not making myself clear. Sorry. I'm not talking about desaturating using the HSL slider to produce or even enhance a B&W effect. In fact I usually increase saturation for a color I'm trying to give a darker tone. What I'm talking about you cannot do in LR (unless I'm missing something). Again: Convert to B&W using the B&W panel with sliders. Then use HSL to fine tune a tone in the B&W image, real time, where you see it happen as you do it. If this is possible in LR I would love to know how.

Does this method have real utility? I think it has significant utility and missed it greatly when I left Aperture for LR. Never fully embraced SilverEfex for this reason as well. It could be that I'm trying too hard for little benefit...but again I don't think so.

 60 
 on: August 27, 2016, 02:13:43 PM 
Started by armaniphoto - Last post by Sean H
+1

Nice shot!

We have those beetles here too. Sad to see big stands of old growth die off so suddenly!

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