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 on: Today at 05:21:46 AM 
Started by biker - Last post by Jim Pascoe
Margins vary enormously depending on the product.  I'm no expert but I used to work in a bicycle shop and the mark-up on clothing was about 50%, but on bicycles only around 17% I seem to remember.  So when a customer was trying to haggle a 10% discount he was looking to take half the profit margin.

I believe electronics including cameras are even worse.


 on: Today at 04:53:21 AM 
Started by PhotoMini - Last post by PhotoMini
Hi all,

First off I am new to the forums here but have been following LuLa for a number of years and taking photographs even longer so I am not a complete alien to photography. However I am somewhat new to printing.

I have been printing images for nearly 18 months but have only just started to dive into 'fine art printing' as the paper that my university provides to print our work on I have not been completely happy with. As such I have purchased sample packs of paper from various manufacturers (Breathing Color, Moab, Harman, Canson) to try out and hopefully move to a paper that i prefer.

Each sample pack only gives 2 sheets of each type of paper and I want a try and see which papers i like and which papers suit my images (both colour and B&W). At this stage I do not want to get into the technicalities of each paper such as which colours are out of gamut for which paper and which paper has a higher D-MAX etc (I will be finding out this and doing more paper testing once i have narrowed it down to a few select papers). I just want to test the papers to see which ones I like and which ones I don't like.

I have done up 2 test sheets (one colour, one B&W) with a selection of my images on each that i feel best represent my work in general, however when consulting the 'master printer' at my university about them, he said it would be better to simply download a 'printer evaluation image' from the web and print that out. However the image i found online i felt did not represent the sort of images i print on a regular basis. I want to try and get the best general representation of each paper without printing out countless test images. I am simply not in a position financially to buy several packs of each sample pack and have them shipped to me. (Shipping along is $80 and lets not mention the exchange rate).

With this in mind, what is the best way to try out and test the papers. I am open to all suggestions and welcome any advice.


 on: Today at 04:53:03 AM 
Started by JoeKitchen - Last post by gmfotografie
of course with speedlights you will get also fast flash duration - but if you need lightformers or working with mod light it will be difficult...for me - broncolo scoro does the best job when it comes to fast flash duration.
look a karl taylor or manuel mittelpunkt but there are also others who does this quite well.

 on: Today at 04:31:08 AM 
Started by Theodoros - Last post by Theodoros
Hi all, I came through a discussion on web, where it was claimed that Seiko 1 shutters can't be interchanged with Copal 1 shutters... What is the reason for that? Is it the spacing between front and rear cells of the lens that differs?

If it is the spacing, which is the shutter with the minimum distance between he two lens cells? Obviously if one uses the shutter with the minimum distance, he can then shim the difference... Isn't it the case?

-Which shutters are 100% compatible with each other?
-Which shutters are compatible with the Rollei 1 electronic shutter mechanism?
-Which shutters are compatible with Seiko 1?
-Which shutters can be shimmed as to become compatible with Seiko 1?
-Can the electronic Rollei 1 shutter replace (either with shimming or not) replace a Seiko 1 shutter?

Thanks in advance...

 on: Today at 03:46:06 AM 
Started by chuckn - Last post by stamper
Very nice, moody but subtle at the same time.

 on: Today at 03:27:39 AM 
Started by BernardLanguillier - Last post by Beano_z
Just goofing around, trying out a couple new lenses...boy is the new blue ring 80mm lens sharp  :o

YY At South Bund 07 - 26-Aug-2016 by BB, on Flickr

YY At South Bund 02 - 26-Aug-2016 by BB, on Flickr

 on: Today at 02:48:35 AM 
Started by Eric Myrvaagnes - Last post by Patricia Sheley
~from Little Island.

 on: Today at 02:28:03 AM 
Started by bpepz - Last post by bpepz

 on: Today at 01:42:35 AM 
Started by straightbanana - Last post by straightbanana
Anyone come across this before?

Seems to be an issue mostly with my Hasselblad 50mm C (non *T) lens.
See attachments.
Directly into the sun for picture 0166 (though facing down) and 70 degrees to the sun on right for picture 0156.

I have all chrome C lenses for my 500cm Hassy and have not really noticed this with the 80mm, 150mm or 250mm in film or Digital Sensor (CFV16II).
Though having checked some film and digital photos into the sun, the 80mm also does seem to lightly do this but the picture were crap anyway so did not notice this before.

Because of this I bought a 6093 hood and this solved the issue with the 80mm but this did add tons of extra contrast with the 80mm, 150mm and 250mm, which I tend to not like doing as I add this after if I feel like it.

I've never really used the 50mm in favour of the 80mm for most occasions especially as I did not have and could not find a 67mm Hasselblad thread to fit the 6093 hood.

So it languished in the cupboard until I eventually made a 67mm thread adapter with bayonet fitting so I could fit the 6093 hood to the 50mm, which at least fits.
But does not seem to fix the flare? at all (in any direction with bright sunlight) if that's what it is?
Incidentally in order for me to fit the 67mm filter thread I made I removed the original filter holder thread that came with the lens.

Could this be the issue?

Anyone come across this issue and a fix?
Should I get a 67mm UV filter to fit the lens so I can keep using my DIY bayonet mount?

Help would be greatly appreciated.

 on: Today at 01:36:49 AM 
Started by mtakeda - Last post by rent
B&H is now showing preorder shipping date of Sept. 15.  >:(

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