Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Medium Format / Film / Digital Backs – and Large Sensor Photography => Topic started by: DanielStone on November 01, 2013, 08:58:56 pm
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Hey all,
A friend of mine(he doesn't get online much, hence my asking for him) has been looking to move to using a MFD setup. He's been an ardent HB user for many years, in addition to Leica M. He knows quality, but doesn't "baby" his equipment. He owns what he uses on a regular basis, no frills, so to speak.
So I'm here, as somewhat of an "emissary"... He still shoots film 100% of the time, and makes optical enlargements. He is not 100% swayed towards using digital tech, as he only shoots for himself, but he's seen ads in magazines, and online(when he goes on that is :D)
Anyhow. I've told him what I'm aware of about the "choices" available these days, including P1 DF cameras, a back for his already-owned HB 500CM system(with CF lenses), and the other options from Leaf/Sinar/Mamiya, etc.
He wants to be tether-free, shoot to card. So a higher quality screen would be req'd.
I instantly thought of the Leica S(non S2P) bodies, with a Hasselblad V adapter to use his HB lenses on it.
He isn't 100% "go" on the idea of digital(for aforementioned reasons above), but he's willing to spend if he feels it'll make his photography easier(he's over 70) and still as enjoyable.
thx for your help,
Dan
p.s. Remember, he IS NOT shooting commercially, so no tethering capabilities are req'd, more the UI and ability to review/assess/edit on the screen of the back in the field
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Hi as usual there a are a LOT of aspects and details he'd need to weight in and also test the cameras themselves.
Ive used, owned (Hasselblad H / Phase One Back and Pentax 645D) and or handled (Leica S, Phase DF+, H5D and Rollei Hy6 Mod2) mostly all of the currently made medium format solutions.
Leica S: As an SLR Camera body the Leica S is the best since it was designed from the ground up as a medium format digital slr body. So the feel of the body is great (quiet and smooth shutter, VERY little mirror slap, feels high quality). It is like a refined 1 series Canon or Nikon. The viewfinder on the Leica S is the best for AF and Manual Focus. It has a split screen / micro prism in the center to aid manual focusing. That said it is a heavy body (it is weather sealed) and the image quality is good but resolution it is similar to a Nikon D800E. The lenses are superb. They have a quality feel to them that is just unmatched by any AF lens I have seen. The lcd screen is good. You can use other brand lenses with adapters but the sensor is not that close to being full frame medium format so you loose quite a bit of focal length. Very good service and support.
The PhaseOne IQ backs are the Best option if image quality is paramount. The large sensors of the 60 and 80 MP backs produce stunning results at base ISO. The IQ backs have an amazing touch screen that is great for reviewing images and it is very easy to use. (I own an IQ160). The Phase backs have legendary reliability. The Leaf Credo have a similar screen I believe and use similar sensors. Service and support for the Phase backs is probably industry leading.
The Phase and Leaf backs can be used in a number of bodies:
Hasselblad H1/2/4: Feels very good in hand and has a great viewfinder for AF use. Not so great for MF at least with the standard focusing screen. The shutter feels somewhat clunky/noisy and has a bit of mirror slap. Overall the body is very solid but the exterior has a lot of plastic that feels somewhat low rent due to it being lighter in color and smooth. The lenses are very good and feel solid and smooth. Good service and support.
Phase One DF+: Feels good in hand and the shutter is a touch smoother than the Hasselblad. The Viewfinder is similar. The body is black which makes it look better. It feels just as solid as the Hasselblad. The exterior is still a bit plasticky looking but much less so than the Hasselblad. The lenses are a mixed bag they feel good but not as nice as the Hasselblad and obviously the Leica S lenses which feel the best but perform very well according to the reports and user experiences. There are also lots of options in regards to lenses. Really good service and support.
Both bodies are large and somewhat heavy. They need to be held with 2 hands most of the time.
Rollei Hy6 Mod 2: Very Nice Viewfinder. The body feels great in hand and it is easy to use. The lenses feel great they af well but are designed to be used manual also so MF feels very nice. The Waist Level finder has a quality feel and is the closest thing to a classic Hasselblad finder out there in new cameras. Only Leaf digital backs mount on the Rollei so the PhaseOne backs do not mount.
Pentax 645D: Great integrated solution with a wide range of lenses the body feel like a top end DSLR and the shutter is smooth. The viewfinder is really good although best for AF use only. The body feels light for the size. Image quality is good but not amazing like with the Phase/Leaf backs. It may be a hair below the Leica S. The lenses are a mixed bag. The new lenses feel quite plasticky (certainly for the price) but are good and you can use a LOT of the very affordable used lenses available out there. Service and support is not that great on this system.
H5D: I handled the bodies and they look and feel like a refined H1/2/4 body (which is what they are). Very nice. Have not judged image quality. The rear lcd screen is nice.
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Rollei Hy6 Mod 2: Very Nice Viewfinder. The body feels great in hand and it is easy to use. The lenses feel great they af well but are designed to be used manual also so MF feels very nice. The Waist Level finder has a quality feel and is the closest thing to a classic Hasselblad finder out there in new cameras. Only Leaf digital backs mount on the Rollei so the PhaseOne backs do not mount.
Not sure whether this is possible or not but it would be nice if there was a Hasselblad V adaptor for the Hy6.
It would allow Hasselblad V users to switch to a more modern and still supported body while keeping a very similar shooting experience and their existing lenses.
Joris.
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If he isn't shooting high iso, then I'd say either Leica a S2 or a M9, both because they are CCD's both are high quality, the rear lcds are good and the M9 offers a more analog experience in shooting, plus Leica menus are simple, simple.
It's just set speed, set wb and shoot. Not much more to it, except if he goes with an M9 buy two, they can be quirky.
IMO
BC
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Hi,
A phase back on the V is an option. I have a P45+ on a 555ELD.
But, I would really look into the Nikon D800/D800E and also at the new Sony Alpha 7. I would think the D800/D800E is a good match for the P45+ and I don't think the Leica S2 is really superior to say Nikon D800, specially as I have seen evidence to the contrary. http://diglloyd.com/prem/prot/DAP/NikonD800/compare-LeicaS2-mosaic.html or http://echophoto.dnsalias.net/ekr/index.php/photoarticles/38-observations-on-leica-s2-raw-images
Shooting with P45+ on the Hasselbald 555ELD with a few lenses I find that the advantage the Hassy/P45+ has is resolution, when compared with my Sony Alpha 99.
http://echophoto.dnsalias.net/ekr/index.php/photoarticles/76-my-medium-format-digital-journey
http://echophoto.dnsalias.net/ekr/index.php/photoarticles/77-two-months-of-mfd-looking-back
The Leica S2 is great, if you want the greatest lenses. If your friend wants to spend his money wisely, it may be good the visit the links above.
Best regards
Erik
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To be quite honest, if he's been shooting film well into his 70's and he's not shooting commercially I don't see a single reason to switch now. It doesn't get much simpler than film, especially if you've already mastered the darkroom process.
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Hi,
That is OK, but many people find shooting digital a better choice. In reality, if you shoot film you need to scan it, unless you have a wet darkroom.
Best regards
Erik
To be quite honest, if he's been shooting film well into his 70's and he's not shooting commercially I don't see a single reason to switch now. It doesn't get much simpler than film, especially if you've already mastered the darkroom process.
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Shooting digital may not please your friend at all. He may not enjoy working on the computer at all and prefer to work with an optical enlarger. The two processes demand very different skills. Changing the camera is the smaller part of the story, the bigger part is what you do with the files.
I would advise against going digital in that case. Silver halide photography still works very well and the time spent to learn to use the computer to process the files is time not spent actually producing pictures. Digital is convenient for the pro shooter under pressure to deliver in time but silver halide photography is probably still a better choice if one aims for the art market, as silver halide prints are still perceived to be of higher value.
It would be different if your friend was scanning his negatives to process them on a computer. But if he is still using an optical enlarger, he actually has skills that are prized higher than computer skills considering today's film revival on the art market.
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That is OK, but many people find shooting digital a better choice. In reality, if you shoot film you need to scan it, unless you have a wet darkroom.
You should try to visit an exhibition from people like Hiroshi Sugimoto. Really.
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Not sure whether this is possible or not but it would be nice if there was a Hasselblad V adaptor for the Hy6.
It would allow Hasselblad V users to switch to a more modern and still supported body while keeping a very similar shooting experience and their existing lenses.
Unfortunately not possible. At the risk of angering those users, its hard to believe but the Schneiders for the Hy6 date back to early 1990s and are actually superior (said to be just behind the Leica S lenses), and right there with the best view camera lenses. There are some Zeiss lenses for that platform, if so inclined, including the 110 f2, a favorite of the Hassy V world.
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To be quite honest, if he's been shooting film well into his 70's and he's not shooting commercially I don't see a single reason to switch now. It doesn't get much simpler than film, especially if you've already mastered the darkroom process.
If he has a darkroom stick with film.
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Leica S. Just for the viewfinder alone.
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Why does he want to go digital?
For serious images he should stay with his film equipment and get a Fuji X system or MFT for lighter travel and faster shooting.
But if he has an "M" - why change anything?
The learning curve for digital is not to be underestimated - on the other hand - with solid analogue skills he'll learn it quickly.
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I don't post here very often, but I thought I should chime in as someone who, although a lot younger than your friend, has travelled a similar road.
I would suggest two options:
1: Keep shooting film but invest money into an Imacon / Hasselblad Flextight scanner, an Eizo monitor and large format inkjet printer. This option would save dollars over buying an S2 kit alone, and he'd be able to archive his back catalogue while he's at it. This is the road I have travelled, with an eye to adding a Phase back to my Linhof Techno setup in the future.
2: The Leica S system is brilliant, all be it presenting a lower pixel count that the competition and without the ability to use tilt-shift lenses. I loved this camera when I demoed it and if I didn't need technical movements, this is the way I'd go. Brilliant, bright and sharp viewfinder, amazing lenses and beautiful handling, although I'm suspect of Leica's after sales service having some bad experiences in the past. Still, the S system seems more solid than the competition as all of them tend to throw up random faults from time to time.
TJV
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... 1: Keep shooting film but invest money into an Imacon / Hasselblad Flextight scanner, an Eizo monitor and large format inkjet printer. ...
Exactly my setup (Eizo CG243w, Epson 7890), except I have the Nikon Scanner (LS 9000).
For an amateur with existing MF Film equipment best bang for the buck - if there weren't that dreaded scanning - but the back catalog is the killer argument - opening old negatives/slides to digital gives so many possibilities ....
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Unfortunately not possible. At the risk of angering those users, its hard to believe but the Schneiders for the Hy6 date back to early 1990s and are actually superior (said to be just behind the Leica S lenses), and right there with the best view camera lenses. There are some Zeiss lenses for that platform, if so inclined, including the 110 f2, a favorite of the Hassy V world.
Geoff understood, and I certainly did not want to re-open the Schneider vs. Zeiss debate.
I was just wondering whether it would be technically feasible to offer an easy upgrade path to V users to a camera which offers a similar experience.
The viewfinder on the Leica S is the best for AF and Manual Focus.
Leica S. Just for the viewfinder alone.
Brilliant, bright and sharp viewfinder, amazing lenses and beautiful handling...
I visited the Leica store in NYC today. The Leica S viewfinder is indeed very bright. AF was snappier than I expected as well.
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If cameras we're cars the Leica S would be a 335 bi turbo 3 series. Amazingly competent and nobody knows just how good it is but the owner.
Problem is you can buy a 335 for about the same price, actually less.
I can see moving from film for more reasons than I can see sticking with it, but if I didn't have to tether, shoot motion, have rentals in every market, I'd sell all those pelican cases we drag around the world and buy the s2 and just smile everytime I used it.
IMO
BC
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hey all,
Thanks for the tips.
He shoots landscapes, close-ups, and also sees the occasional local "photo day" with amateur models and the like ;)... He's been a lifelong bachelor, and is now contending with arthritis. He has Nikon F stuff, but he's found the M6 to suit his physical abilities best, as of what he can do now.
No commerical shooting. Never has, never will. Purely for the fun of it.
He hasn't used his Hasselblads in quite some time, probably at least a year or two. Mostly his Leica M6 and a nice collection of lenses(21,28,35,50,75,90,135apo)...
He isn't really "looking to 'go' digital", as his workflow is not fast-paced at all. He enjoys the simplicity of wet printing from negatives(mostly color), and he isn't super technical despite owning some nice equipment :)
He knows about the tech, that's for sure. He doesn't have an email, barely uses a cell phone, and yes; no gps either :)
So yes, it's probably best if he sticks with what he knows, and that's film.
Me, at 25yo, on the other hand, I do have an interest in digital, but still enjoy shooting my 5x7 and GX680 systems so much that film is the best medium for me at this time in my life. Albeit drum scanning and digital post, but the occasional wet print still satiates my darkroom desires for a handmade print when I want one :)
-Dan
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Hi,
If your friend has a Leica M6 an M would be a good option. It is expensive, of course, but much cheaper than MF.
Staying with the wet process may be a good option, if your friend cannot easily adopt to new technology. The LuLa forums are pretty much digital, it is easy to forget that the wet darkroom still exists.
Best regards
Erik
hey all,
Thanks for the tips.
He shoots landscapes, close-ups, and also sees the occasional local "photo day" with amateur models and the like ;)... He's been a lifelong bachelor, and is now contending with arthritis. He has Nikon F stuff, but he's found the M6 to suit his physical abilities best, as of what he can do now.
No commerical shooting. Never has, never will. Purely for the fun of it.
He hasn't used his Hasselblads in quite some time, probably at least a year or two. Mostly his Leica M6 and a nice collection of lenses(21,28,35,50,75,90,135apo)...
He isn't really "looking to 'go' digital", as his workflow is not fast-paced at all. He enjoys the simplicity of wet printing from negatives(mostly color), and he isn't super technical despite owning some nice equipment :)
He knows about the tech, that's for sure. He doesn't have an email, barely uses a cell phone, and yes; no gps either :)
So yes, it's probably best if he sticks with what he knows, and that's film.
Me, at 25yo, on the other hand, I do have an interest in digital, but still enjoy shooting my 5x7 and GX680 systems so much that film is the best medium for me at this time in my life. Albeit drum scanning and digital post, but the occasional wet print still satiates my darkroom desires for a handmade print when I want one :)
-Dan
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FWIW, I think your friend would be best off using film.
I didn't find digital printing difficult per se, I found computers difficult. However, as I had spent my career with shooting, printing and transparency work I felt that to be a distinct advantage in that I came to the digital party with a pretty good idea of what a print should/could look like regarding attainable quality.
However, though the production of a pleasing monitor image is relatively simple (if mechanical), getting that same quality onto digital printing papers isn't so straigthforward. Personally, I find that nothing I've seen since matches the absolute delight of a well-glazed double-weight sheet of Kodak balck/white. If your pal wet-prints on matte papers, then I'd say the argument is reversed, and digital paper works much better.
In his seventies, I'd advise staying happy and avoiding unnecessary frustration, and digital photography and computers provide enough of that to make you lose the few strands of hair you might have left. Far better to wander into the darkroom with one shot in mind, work with it and retire happy with your labours than spend hours hunched in front of a monitor playing with a hundred also-ran images. Sadly, that's the way the maths seems to run.
Rob C
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Hi,
So what equipment would you suggest from your stand of view?
I am shooting an Hasselbald 555 ELD and I would say MLU is mandatory, but I may be wrong.
Best regards
Erik
As someone who regularly shoots using shutter speeds in the range of 1/15 sec to 8 sec I wouldn't even consider the Leica S2. I know of landscape photographers who have given up on the S2 for landscape and other work due to vibration and it's no better when using the leaf shutter lenses.
The following is the firing sequence when using the leaf shutter lenses.
1.Shutter released
2.Mirror goes up
3.Aperture diaphragm closes down to desired f-stop
4.Focal plane shutter opens
5.Camera starts exposure electronically
6.Central shutter closes
7.Aperture opens
8.Focal plane shutter closes
9.Central shutter opens
10.Mirror returns
A recipe for vibration. Such a pity the leaf shutter can't be used in isolation.
Used with big light in the studio, no problem - apart from tethering - but landscape, nah.
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Hi,
So what equipment would you suggest from your stand of view?
I am shooting an Hasselbald 555 ELD and I would say MLU is mandatory, but I may be wrong.
Best regards
Erik
Film + Good IQ + lightweight = Mamiya 7 II
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As someone who regularly shoots using shutter speeds in the range of 1/15 sec to 8 sec I wouldn't even consider the Leica S2. I know of landscape photographers who have given up on the S2 for landscape and other work due to vibration and it's no better when using the leaf shutter lenses.
The following is the firing sequence when using the leaf shutter lenses.
1.Shutter released
2.Mirror goes up
3.Aperture diaphragm closes down to desired f-stop
4.Focal plane shutter opens
5.Camera starts exposure electronically
6.Central shutter closes
7.Aperture opens
8.Focal plane shutter closes
9.Central shutter opens
10.Mirror returns
A recipe for vibration. Such a pity the leaf shutter can't be used in isolation.
Used with big light in the studio, no problem - apart from tethering - but landscape, nah.
One can't use mirror lockup on the S2? That seems like a silly omission indeed. On the Hasselblad H cameras, it goes this way:
1.Mirror lockup pressed
2.Mirror goes up
3.Aperture diaphragm closes down to desired f-stop
4.Focal plane shutter opens
5a: press release button
5.Camera opens central shutter and starts exposure
6.Central shutter closes and exposure stops
6a: one can repeat 5a, 6 and 7 as often as one wants for a series of pictures, the only thing that move is the central shutter and that does not add noticeable vibration.
6b: press mirror lock up button to release mirror
7.Aperture opens
8.Focal plane shutter closes (maybe 8 happens before 7, I don't know)
9.Central shutter opens
10.Mirror returns
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I use a Leica S2 for landscape and similar work. I was in Iceland this past summer and routinely
took images up to 120 sec. I took many in the 1/30th to several second range of exposure.
I did NOT have any issues with vibration despite fierce wind on at least
one day. I didn't even use MU routinely. I have made 40x60 inch prints from these images and
stitched panos up to 96 inches long with no issues regarding focus, etc. I do NOT have leaf shutter lenses.
I do have a very sturdy gitzo tripod.
This is not to say the person asking the original question should go digital vs. film, only that I politely
disagree with the person who stated you couldn't use the S2 effectively. It definitely works for me.
I have the images posted on my website, although of course, being the web, they are merely reduced jps.
www.rudlinfineart.com->galleries->portfolios->iceland
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thanks, I'll show him this thread and we'll see what happens :)
I know that for ME, if I were to be looking to buy into a system myself, I'd go with the Hy6 system. Pricey, but from the comparisons I've seen of the glass, probably the best thing short of a tech camera/lenses.
-Dan
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Of course there is the mirror lock up option on the Leica S2 and S.
On GetDPI there's also a lot of praise how well damped the mirror is. And as an owner of an S2P I can confirm this. Sure, if one wants to use all reolution a MF camera can give, one has to use good techique, which means ML, tripod, high shutter speed.
Klaban, you make it sound as if the S shutter is somehow faulty, which is not the case. The CS is there for high speed flash sync, up to 1/1000.
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Hi,
What is your take on the Hartblei DCam and Alpa FPS? Both use the Mamiya shutter but both are said to be very well dampened.
Best regards
Erik
A trawl through the archives of sites such as GetDPI will find reports of vibration issues using the S2 and MFD focal plane systems in general when using slow shutter speeds.
Given the choice I'd always go for a leaf shutter system.
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Hi,
I don't think you can have it all. Myself I shoot medium to small apertures, say f/8 on the best lenses and f/11 - f/16 on the less good ones. When needing DoF I stop down a bit. ISO is kept at 50, so shutter time is the main variable and it tends to be on the long side.
MF and high shutter speeds don't mix well, unless using flash.
Best regards
Erik
Or one could use a leaf shutter system at any speed.
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I never use high shutter speeds when using MF.
Interesting - I've not seen this mentioned before.
Obviously in many scenarios the shutter speed is a result of a desire to shoot at base ISO (often low in MF) and optimum lens aperture (typically around the f/8 mark), which means even with lots of light, you're going to end up with a slow shutter speed. Even "sunny 16" with an IQ180 and f/8 is only 1/140th of a second.
But surely there are scenarios where it's preferable to compromise a bit on ideal ISO and aperture in order to get the shot with MF, rather than using an alternative format?
Would you mind explaining the rationale behind your statement?
Kind regards,
Gerald.
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Known subject matter in known conditions.
Different formats/cameras for differing work.
Not quite sure I follow.
If it were necessary to use a shutter speed of 1/1000th of a second for a particular shot, and you could expose correctly with ISO100 and f/5.6, you'd choose not to use MF?
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Indeed it is, but it's such a pity that those wonderful CS lenses can't be used in isolation from the focal plane shutter.
Doug Peterson has suggested that the new Phamiya replacement camera for the DF will probably allow leaf shutter lenses to be used in this way. This is as it should be. More power to their elbow!
Yes, this imaginary camera will be soooooo good. Imagination is always better than reality.
Will Doug go on the record with features and a release date? No? How strange.
Edmund
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Don't buy promises.
sleep with dogs, get fleas :)
Edmund
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Or one could use a leaf shutter system at any speed.
Which MF camera would that be?
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Hi,
I am with Keith (?) here. I feel that DSLRs are better at high ISO than MFD and I tend to shoot minimum ISO also my DSLRs. For me, MFDB is on tripod, careful manual focus, minimum ISO, medium aperture, MLU and cable release. Otherwise DSLR. But, I rather use DSLR on tripod, manual focus (LV at 11X), minimum ISO, medium aperture, MLU and self timer/cable release.Under those ideal conditions the MFD system gives sharper images. Better images? That is another discussion, but I obviously think MFD has it merits, else I would not use it.
Best regards
Erik
Interesting - I've not seen this mentioned before.
Obviously in many scenarios the shutter speed is a result of a desire to shoot at base ISO (often low in MF) and optimum lens aperture (typically around the f/8 mark), which means even with lots of light, you're going to end up with a slow shutter speed. Even "sunny 16" with an IQ180 and f/8 is only 1/140th of a second.
But surely there are scenarios where it's preferable to compromise a bit on ideal ISO and aperture in order to get the shot with MF, rather than using an alternative format?
Would you mind explaining the rationale behind your statement?
Kind regards,
Gerald.
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Difficult to predict the future is…
Yes, this imaginary camera will be soooooo good. Imagination is always better than reality.
Will Doug go on the record with features and a release date? No? How strange.
Edmund
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May the farce be with you
Difficult to predict the future is…
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Hi,
I am with Keith (?) here. I feel that DSLRs are better at high ISO than MFD and I tend to shoot minimum ISO also my DSLRs. For me, MFDB is on tripod, careful manual focus, minimum ISO, medium aperture, MLU and cable release. Otherwise DSLR. But, I rather use DSLR on tripod, manual focus (LV at 11X), minimum ISO, medium aperture, MLU and self timer/cable release.Under those ideal conditions the MFD system gives sharper images. Better images? That is another discussion, but I obviously think MFD has it merits, else I would not use it.
Best regards
Erik
I'd rate the IQ180 in a totally different league to any of the Canons I've used (7D, 5D II, 5D III, 1D4, 1Dx), even at ISO100.
As an example comparison, the pixel pitch on the IQ180 is pretty close to that of the 1DIV. So for a given focal length, if you need to stop any "action", or compensate for any possible movement or vibration of the camera, you're going to need the same shutter speed on both. I've recently shot with both IQ180 and 1Dx from a helicopter. There is simply no comparison whatsoever between the two. The IQ180 blows the 1Dx out of the water (or I guess, sky, in this case).
Obviously you need good light, but when if it's possible to pull the shot off with the IQ180, I cannot for the life of me understand why anyone - given the choice - would use a DSLR.
"MF and high shutter speeds don't mix well" is not the case in my (admittedly, limited) experience.
Kind regards,
Gerald.
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Hi,
I see your point.
Just adding that I have a P45+ on a Hasselblad 555ELD, the IQ180 on a technical camera would have a larger advantage. My exposures times seem to vary widely in the 1/4 - 1/250 s range, so I am shooting in a region where mirror and shutter flap may be a problem. The Hasselblad is central shutter, but I have seen shutter induced vibration on my Pentax 67, so I know it can be a problem. Main main DSLR right now is the Sony Alpha 99.
Best regards
Erik
I'd rate the IQ180 in a totally different league to any of the Canons I've used (7D, 5D II, 5D III, 1D4, 1Dx), even at ISO100.
As an example comparison, the pixel pitch on the IQ180 is pretty close to that of the 1DIV. So for a given focal length, if you need to stop any "action", or compensate for any possible movement or vibration of the camera, you're going to need the same shutter speed on both. I've recently shot with both IQ180 and 1Dx from a helicopter. There is simply no comparison whatsoever between the two. The IQ180 blows the 1Dx out of the water (or I guess, sky, in this case).
Obviously you need good light, but when if it's possible to pull the shot off with the IQ180, I cannot for the life of me understand why anyone - given the choice - would use a DSLR.
"MF and high shutter speeds don't mix well" is not the case in my (admittedly, limited) experience.
Kind regards,
Gerald.
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Hi,
I see your point.
Just adding that I have a P45+ on a Hasselblad 555ELD, the IQ180 on a technical camera would have a larger advantage. My exposures times seem to vary widely in the 1/4 - 1/250 s range, so I am shooting in a region where mirror and shutter flap may be a problem. The Hasselblad is central shutter, but I have seen shutter induced vibration on my Pentax 67, so I know it can be a problem. Main main DSLR right now is the Sony Alpha 99.
Best regards
Erik
Main reason why I let my own 67ll go after about a year; it was beautiful to hold and look at, but even with MU the shutter was the killer. I loved the way it handled Velvia... something about a big Kodak lightbox and transparencies can never be matched on a hot-damned monitor. Just so tactile-looking under one's Schneider lupe!
Downsides? Always used a tripod with the Pentax. It was why I bought it: hoped for best conditions results for stock...
Rob C
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Hi,
I replaced my Manfrotto C55 with a Velbon Sherpa Pro and that did help a lot. So tripod matters, obviously.
I have a 67 projector, from Götschman, glorios images. Perhaps I should get a film magazine for the Hassy and shoot some film.
Best regards
Erik
Main reason why I let my own 67ll go after about a year; it was beautiful to hold and look at, but even with MU the shutter was the killer. I loved the way it handled Velvia... something about a big Kodak lightbox and transparencies can never be matched on a hot-damned monitor. Just so tactile-looking under one's Schneider lupe!
Downsides? Always used a tripod with the Pentax. It was why I bought it: hoped for best conditions results for stock...
Rob C
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Hi,
I replaced my Manfrotto C55 with a Velbon Sherpa Pro and that did help a lot. So tripod matters, obviously.
I have a 67 projector, from Götschman, glorios images. Perhaps I should get a film magazine for the Hassy and shoot some film.
Best regards
Erik
My Pentax lived permanently on top of a Gitzo G 410 that I can hardly lift! The two-way tilting head is just as heavy. All the mass and inertia you could wish for - an asistant would have been nice. Or a coolie (no offence intended, for the politically correctly sensitive in the LuLa woodpile).
Rob C
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What the cost of switching to MF digital will be would buy an awful lot of scans. I've yet to see any digital look as nice as Portra film scanned.
If I did not have to shoot to pay the bills, my digital stuff would be on ebay and I would be happy to be off the camera/computer merry-go-round.
Imagine just having one camera to last you a lifetime, one enlarger to last a lifetime.
Stick with the film you know, life will be so much simpler.
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What the cost of switching to MF digital will be would buy an awful lot of scans. I've yet to see any digital look as nice as Portra film scanned.
If I did not have to shoot to pay the bills, my digital stuff would be on ebay and I would be happy to be off the camera/computer merry-go-round.
Imagine just having one camera to last you a lifetime, one enlarger to last a lifetime.
Stick with the film you know, life will be so much simpler.
Amen!
Rob C
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http://static.timparkin.co.uk/static/tmp/cameratest-2/large.html (http://static.timparkin.co.uk/static/tmp/cameratest-2/large.html)
Amen!
Rob C
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http://static.timparkin.co.uk/static/tmp/cameratest-2/large.html (http://static.timparkin.co.uk/static/tmp/cameratest-2/large.html)
Wow sheet film looks really nice, especially in highlights.
I'm surprised that the Phaseone does not do better in the highlights, it looks like all digital does at the top end. Check out the shot of the money and it's silver strip. Compare that with the film of the same. The shot with the bridge in the highlight, the bridge is just not there on the digital.
It's always been my major bug with my digital cameras, what happens at the highlight end. Especially white cloud or into the Sun shots, specular reflections etc. Resolution is not the only factor in making images, having more tones is just as important as counting more leaves imho.
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From what I am seeing, that is a 70 yo with arthritis, I would say stick with film. My friend is 70 and intelligent, but stick him in front of a computer and try to teach him some photoshop basics and it's a whole lot of pain.
My suggestion would be to sell the blad and to buy a Contax G2 and lenses. Just saying…
Cheers,
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For the OP's friend:
Mamiya 6/7 + Scan Cafe + Lightroom = be happy.
- N.