I really cannot understand why Sigma is not building in a viewfinder for obvious pro or passionate users.
This is not a mom-pop camera.
I really cannot understand why Sigma is not building in a viewfinder for obvious pro or passionate users.cost and then slow AF and video parameters in DP cameras are telling that they just can't get/process data fast enough from that sensor to feed any decent viewfinder.
with a 75mm VF on this little camera this is obvious that the lens will appear in the VFoh, optical VF, not EVF...
With this this new DP, SIGMA will unleash a new version of SPP : SIGMA Photo Pro Monochrome Mode
Is this camera essentially the same as the DP1M and DP2M with a different lens?
I really cannot understand why Sigma is not building in a viewfinder for obvious pro or passionate users.
This is not a mom-pop camera.
And here is a first shoot with the best, to show how creamy and bokehlicious is this lense (Credit photo Kenji Mori) >> right click and show for full resolution.
(http://www.sigma-photo.co.jp/sppmonochrome/img/photo_gallery/_SDI0284_2.jpg)
Well... I can't wait to have my unit but be sure I will have it.
Have a better look at this camera and specially at the size of the lens. With a 75mm VF on this little camera this is obvious that the lens will appear in the VF, or, if they make the DP bigger to fit it, the DP will defo loose all his compactness. I do not want to have a Xpro1 sized DP. I shoot with Dp since they exist and I personally find it very easy to compose a picture with the back screen.hulyss,
A DP with view finder already exist, this is the SD1 :)
hulyss,
It will be very difficult to shoot this without a VF...chances of shake...
DOF will be equal F4 at 75mm? For a head shoulder shot, and being a portrait focal length, it should have been faster i think.
But i am happy.
Not a true macro (1:1 capable) lens, but a close-up lens.
Not a true macro (1:1 capable) lens, but a close-up lens.
I do not know but for sure, this is the most complete DP of the line, IMHO.
I'm very excited. finally a camera that doesn't blindly hunt for desirable attributes like super fast lens, super fast af, super low iso performace and so on. just a camera that does one thing superbly (like the two dp merills as well of course) for an really affordable price. way to go sigma!
Hello,
I know for sure that filter diameter will be 52 mm, the same diameter as the Nikon 50 f.14 :)
(Just for the one who wanted to know).
What an amazing high speed lens :D :D :D
I wonder how the foveon sensor would deal with a Singh Ray blue and gold polarizer I just happen to have one in 52mm
I am also excited by the DP3 Merrill and will be looking forward to your review and sample shots!
I had a chance to play with the DP-3M at CES. One thing of note if anyone has used the other DP-M cameras is that the focus ring is much easier to work with on the DP-3M - on the 1M & 2M cameras, the focus ring is close to the body and so you have to reach a bit for it. On the 3M the the focus ring is really wide, making it quite easy to adjust.
There's also a continuous autofocus mode, which the other DP cameras do not have (might come to the other cameras in a firmware update?).
Also as the 3M supports a closer range of focus, the degree of change in focus adjustment slows down as you get closer - making manual adjustments to close subjects very precise.
The whole DP-M series will be getting a real boost with the Monochrome conversion when that comes to SPP. The B&W prints around the booth were fantastic, and it seems to make shooting a much higher ISO practical.
Also as the 3M supports a closer range of focus, the degree of change in focus adjustment slows down as you get closer - making manual adjustments to close subjects very precise.
now that is a great idea, do you know if any other cameras/lenses do this? That makes so much sense (so much that I think focus by wire might some day be much more comfortable to use than direct mechanical focus). (would be cool if the new sigma mirrorless lenses that will hopefully soon be announced also did this, maybe even user adjustable)
It would be cool yes. As a Zeiss glass user, I might say that "focus by wire" have some road to do before getting even close to real smooth and precise mechanical focus (like Zeiss or old AIS Nikkor Lenses).
So yes, it can be more precise when coupled with scale in live view (like the DPs) but mechanical focus isn't just about precision, it is also about feeling and coupling. So, lens manufacturers should work on focus ring feeling coupled with the electrical rotor. AT the end, focus by wire might be the future, as well; I think it is really possible.
And, for the mirror-less branch of SIGMA lens, I'm not sure they will provide docking support as they do for DSLR lens, at all.
So what am I missing here? Why 3 different cameras? Why not interchangeable lenses?
Here we go my friends :)
http://www.sigma-dp.com/DP3Merrill/ (http://www.sigma-dp.com/DP3Merrill/)
Full size Sample here :
http://www.sigma-dp.com/DP3Merrill/samplephoto.html (http://www.sigma-dp.com/DP3Merrill/samplephoto.html)
There is a load of sample and they blow my mind away. What a camera !
Ho, and don't forget those shoots was made with prototype unit and firmware back in November; production unit might have some little glitch sorted.
Yes, I'm no pixel-peeper typically, so I'm surprised when I see some significant vertical banding in the DP3M-02 image, especially visible all along the bottom of the frame. Hopefully they'll have that sorted out prior to launch.
I also see a little softness in the extreme corners, more visible at wide apertures of course. Shots at f/5 and above look good in this respect but perhaps not on par with the DP2's brilliance corner-to-corner.
I really like this focal length, and am anxious to get my hands on one!
I agree with you. I will not buy it immediately. After some though, I think I will let some ppl to buy it first, to see how it goes on human skin because, before all, I shoot humans.
I'm curious about the lens hood. It looks like it adds another couple inches to the form factor. Does it collapse into the lens when not in use or should we prepare for the added bulk?
I'm really not seeing the eye popping detail of the DP2M in these tests. Is it the lens or just the photography?
So, don't rely on this early shoots and wait till one of us have it.
Here is the 4 actuals JPEG displayed out of the DP3m, cleaner. Note that the photographer is not anyone : It is Tomio Seike ! (I love Tomio's work).I do too, and had not seen it before. Thank you. Amazing.
I really cannot understand why Sigma is not building in a viewfinder for obvious pro or passionate users.
This is not a mom-pop camera.
Hulyss, this difference in the way the files are do you think it is possible that a Sigma firmware update could make the 2 and 1 act as the new 3 does or do you think it is due to different hardware inside of the camera?
Hulyss, thanks for the info. I can't view the shots from your last post for some reason; no problem with other posts.
Some fresh news :
Second, and do not ask me how I know that, it seems there will a cash back outside Japan borders after all . It is just a bit long to set all the system, at least in Europe, and I speak for France. More news between the 1st and 3rd of March.
hi hulyss, do you have any more news on this since I am just about to order a dp1m and dp3m ?
I have been a long time sigma user starting with a sd9 when it first came out - still an awesome camera (most pictures on this page (http://www.stefanmarquardt.de/stefan_marquardt/this_%26_that.html) and here (http://www.stefanmarquardt.de/stefan_marquardt/architecture_1.html) and here (http://www.stefanmarquardt.de/stefan_marquardt/architecture_2.html) are from the sd9 or dp1s)
thanks and regards
stefan
Yes, maybe tonight we will have some more news and then more photos will be available. In the weekend, we will be able to discuss more about it :) (And I really like your work !!)
hulyss, thanks for the info so far! I just looked at your website(s) - great portraits! did you use sigmas for those?
Just read your review, Hulyss. Thank you for sharing it. DP3m is another marvellous compact camera delivering stunning IQ like its siblings. Unfortunately, its slow lens (f2.8 and smaller), poor high iso performance, lack of IS, so-so ergonomics (for me) all are begging for a mandatory tripod and external light (flash) use. Combined with slow write speeds, I hardly see it as a competitor to any FF camera with a prime 85mm. What am I missing in DP3M that could make me abandon Sony a850?
Good report, Hulyss :) Another success for Sigma. Given my last two D800E lenses were also made by Sigma (85 F1.4 and 35mm F1.4) they really seem to be on a roll.
What am I missing in DP3M that could make me abandon Sony a850?
Sorry for the OOT comment, but as much as I agree with the Sigma 35mm f1.4 being a worthy challenger, IMHO you are really missing something by not using the 85mm nikkors. Both the f1.4 (I own one) and f1.8 (a good friend is shooting with one on his 5DIII, he sees it as the best 85mm ever made by anyone) and out of this world good.
To keep this Sigma, I still love my DP2m, but I am not sure I'll fall for the 3... yet.
Cheers,
Bernard
I traipsed around all yesterday afternoon with a good tripod and the DP3M, and didn't use the tripod once. It was just too much fun to hold the DP3M to my eye. With the Voitlander 75mm silver viewfinder, which looks nothing short of great on the camera, you can catch the green focus confirmation out of the corner of your eye. I set focus at the center of the field of vision, and recompose if needed. Worked great. --Barbara
I traipsed around all yesterday afternoon with a good tripod and the DP3M, and didn't use the tripod once. It was just too much fun to hold the DP3M to my eye. With the Voitlander 75mm silver viewfinder, which looks nothing short of great on the camera, you can catch the green focus confirmation out of the corner of your eye. I set focus at the center of the field of vision, and recompose if needed. Worked great. --BarbaraBarbara, I have the Sigma viewfinder on my DP2 and it makes it so much easier to use the camera well. Would like to get the 75 mm Voitlander. The thing I like about the merrill is its so small and I'm afraid I might be put off my the size of the Voitlander. Any chance you could post a pic of the DP3 with the viewfinder?........Max
Can someone post a picture or details of that cable release being mentioned in the article? Hulyss?
Thanks Quentin. Yes the 35 and the 85 are marvellous but I would like to know when they will release the new 85 "Art" and how it will perform :)
Marvelous, Hulyss.
Norm Nicholson
Hulyss, I have a few questions:
Which hot shoe adapter are you using to connect the PC sync cord from your studio flash units to the DPM cameras?
I'd like to use the DP2M and DP3M as studio cameras on a tripod with my monolights. I don't want to use wireless MicroSync transmitter/receiver because I'll be limited to 1/125th shutter speed (I think). I want to use the PC sync cord so I can use the faster shutter speeds on the leaf shutter.
I think this would work, but who knows: http://www.paulcbuff.com/hsa.php
Are you using the camera in Manual mode when you shoot with the studio lights? I read in the instruction manual that it has a "Flash" mode. Do you have to use "Flash" mode when shooting with studio lights with the cord connected (I think flash mode is only for on-camera flash)?
I don't have my Sigma cameras yet... thinking about it, and I might sell all my Canon gear. I want to go Nikon/Sigma in the future anyway.
EDIT: Whoops, didn't notice someone already asked about the hot shoe adapter, but I'd like to know which one that is?
For maxgruzen, and anyone else interested: I haven't figured out how to upload photos (of course, I haven't taken the time to try, so perhaps soon), but I measured the Voitlander 75mm viewfinder. It sits exactly 27/32nds of an inch above the top level of the hotshoe, and is exactly that same amount wide. It is round, with a very attractive styling, posh looking, kind of Art Deco. And, befitting its lovely appearance, it actually comes in a little cobalt blue velveteen drawstring bag like a piece of jewelry. It fits very snugly into the hotshoe, more so than the black Voitlander I got for the DP2M (which wasn't an exact match focal length-wise, but close enough). I wear about a size 7 ring, and that is the size and appearance of the viewfinder, just this small ring sitting atop the camera. --BarbaraThanks Barbara, The Merrill viewfinder I have on the DP2 is 24/32 X 24/32; just a hair smaller then the Voitlander. I'll give the Voitlander a try.I really want that " little cobalt blue velveteen drawstring bag". Getting expensive having to buy one of this for each Merrill. I miss Port Townsand.....Max
...in studio, it blow away any camera under 30 MP, your poor a850 die hard face to him, sorry (just because you a850 do not have any kind of LV).Hulyss, amazing studio results with DP3M! I have no doubt DP3M produces better IQ @ iso100-160, it's the comfort of use and external light support that don't favor the DP3M camera (for me).
They're all different creative tools.Thanks K.C. I 100% agree with you.
Hulyss, amazing studio results with DP3M! I have no doubt DP3M produces better IQ @ iso100-160, it's the comfort of use and external light support that don't favor the DP3M camera (for me).
Thanks K.C. I 100% agree with you.
Why is nobody using the Sigma dSLR with the same sensor?
Edmund
Why is nobody using the Sigma dSLR with the same sensor?
Please friends, does anyone know anything about the Cash Back Campaign from Sigma for buy or for any who currently owns any Merrill Cameras from Europe ??
Thanks and best.
Why is nobody using the Sigma dSLR with the same sensor?
Edmund
I think it's because you can get the DP2M and DP3M for $1,800 with very high performance lenses included, while the DSLR is currently $1900 (normally $2300) and is limited to Sigma SLR lenses, which don't seem to be even close to the DPM lenses, except maybe the new 35mm f/1.4. Also the functionality of the Sigma SLR isn't so great compared to a Nikon or Canon.
So people who are skeptical or new to Sigma will want to test the waters with a cheap "point-and-shoot" (except it's not a point-and-shoot, it's more like a secret weapon). LOL
Why is nobody using the Sigma dSLR with the same sensor?
Good question Edmund. The answer is that the SD-1 with the interchangeable lenses simply doesn't give the same results as the DP-2 (and now 3). It has been suggested by those who should know that a couple of the newer lenses get the SD-1 close, but there is real magic in a lens matched so perfectly to a sensor, it seems.
- N.
It's interesting that the DP* owners are posting so much more interesting pictures than the M240 owners :)
Sigma may not be capable of selling $7K 50 mm lenses, but they sure seem capable of making good point and shoots.
Edmund
This camera excites people. It excites me.
Currently I am going to search for my RRS "universal" camera plate.Exactly the setup, I've decided, that suits me best. I extend the universal bracket to the hole where it clears the battery. It kind of gives me a left handed handle. It allows me to function all the controls with my right fingers as well as my thumb as I've got large hands. Also when holding the camera, manual focus is as easy as extending my left index to adjust the lens. This same system works very well with my RX100. I now find the right sided grip useless. ;D
Exactly the setup, I've decided, that suits me best. I extend the universal bracket to the hole where it clears the battery. It kind of gives me a left handed handle. It allows me to function all the controls with my right fingers as well as my thumb as I've got large hands. Also when holding the camera, manual focus is as easy as extending my left index to adjust the lens. This same system works very well with my RX100. I now find the right sided grip useless. ;D
davidbogdan
received my dp3 yesterday - really happy with the purchase. got it particularly for near macro work:
(is it normal that the lens makes a wee noise when you focus manuel?)
Ho by the way I get attacked by "Loyd Chamber" about my professionalism because I said in my report that colors out of the DP3 Merrill are more accurate than DP2 Merrill.
I stay in my positions, as I'm not a professional reviewer but a Professional photographer who have an artist and painter eye. When there is a difference I see it and I'm not the only possessor of DP3m to have noticed a change (beneficial).
But, as I say, I am not a reviewer (yet) and I don't give into forum ego/polemics.
With all due respect to this reviewer.
Don't worry about that Hulyss, at least you didn't charge us money to read your review.
Haha yea !! What a strange Idea to charge ppl for reading a personal point of view...
I have to say, in his case, he works very hard for the money. And he covers some very useful issues that others don't cover in detailed fashion. If I were buying a high-end kit from scratch, I think the price would be worth it in terms of money and headaches saved.
... This is just sad that all is monetised today.
As opposed to yesterday (and the last couple of millennia), when writers and other artist never got to work for money ;)
I have not yet observed a color difference among the DP Merrill cameras, and I have all three of them. If I were to make such a claim, I would back it up with evidence as a matter of professionalism.
The DP3 Merrill's colors are more accurate (by far)
An interesting conundrum in fashion photography is that women are often the designers and models, and they are often the art directors and editors, however the photographers are mostly men. And statistically men tend to have much less discernment of colors than young women.
On the matter of color of any of the DP series, I would as a color consultant do the same thing as I would do for any other significant color issue - have a young woman check my judgement :)
Edmund
I called you troll ?? 8) ;D
Yes the DP2m is hard with skins. Merrill sensor was hard with skin but the DP3m changed the game. I do have examples and can compare but this is not my role and this my wife, in example. She is not a test target for the mass.
Only the future and the users will prove what I see and what I say about this "color enhancement" and I'm pretty comfortable with my claims.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/yfdaykwy0hrbp3a/Sensible.jpg)
a. Lucky man
b. you can hardly use her to illustrate your work, but claim papal dispensation at the same time;
c. yes, the skin tones and shadows are not flattering of a good-looking woman.
;-)
Rob C
I don't think that the Sigma DPxM line would be my cameras of choice for fashion photography, but the gritty analytical end results can be good news for some people shots, where you want to see every nook and cranny.
Quentin,
Did I hear you say "The ideal camera for dermatological records" ?
I would protest that, the color of the blemish is very important to doctors.
Edmund
PS. See, even an old Troll can learn new tricks :)
I took a self-portrait once with my DP2M to see what the fuss is all about. I was wondering if my skin was actually disgusting or if the camera enhances the imperfections...
That said, I'm getting more and more convinced and interested by this DP3M.
Lots of beautiful photos !!
That would also rule it out for some industrial needs: jet engine flame tubes are very colour-dependent for analytical purposes. Oddly, I enjoyed flying when young, but now I've had time to think...
Rob C
The Dp3m is an another beast. Can't be used as we use the DP2m, need a little learning curve too. He does not have the same character.
As I said ... lot of gorgeous photos :)
Ok ... Now the DPxms are compared to spectra-photometers !! ;D
Hi all and thanks Hulyss;
I don't mean to the performance of the autofocus because I usually shoot in manual mode.
I'm referring to the focus performance at infinity when you use hyperfocal distance.
Is this camera sharp enough ??
Thanks and best,
Joni.
I used it. But the lack of LV is a very big problem ...
The fine art photographer Vieri Bottazzini did a pretty accurate test
accurate ? his illumination was very uneven... both between shots and within a shot... total BS.
Hello,
No, not total BS, on the contrary. Besides looking at the images, reading the text would have told you that the purpose of the test was to see if there were differences between the colours of the DP1M, DP2M and DP3M, not determining absolute colour response of any of the three cameras.
Therefore, to check this particular aspect out, I HAD to use the SAME manual exposure with every camera, which resulted in DIFFERENT luminance values because of the different response to light of each camera.
but it to be THE SAME for each camera
SPP using hidden expocorrection/tone curves?
If so, then no test is reliable according to you.
that's a strange conclusion... if the purpose of his tests was to show that different cameras, with different lenses (different T-stops), w/o a guarantee of the same processing by a proprietary raw converter, under not stable and uneven illumination will most probably give you different results in your workflow then yes... it is kind of obvious...
Dear Vladimirovich,
I know that in your country it is cold actually, and that your president is somewhat authoritarian but it is not an excuse to come here with such blabla. Do not transform this nice place in Dpreview... it is not Dpreview. As Vieri said, if you can do better your are welcome with your test and skills. Otherwise stop. If it disturb you then, walk away.
- Same processing, same proprietary RAW converter software (SPP), same general settings, same WB / colour wheel settings, etc both in the converter and in all cameras;
- Same light, stable and even, same flash position, same power (in manual);
- Same cameras in all respects except for the lenses (according to the manufacturer);
Pretty controlled.
Pretty reliable conditions in order to determine whether the 3 Merrill cameras do or do not process colours differently, which was the purpose of the test.
Note to Vladimirovich and Hulyss
Persist in this and you will both be banned from posting. Stick to the Topic or be gone.
Who the hell stand here to try to keep this thread clear Dear Chriss ??
Ban me a kill my post/threads, even my "report" if I'm a "problem".
I assume.
Well, this thread has certainly gone quiet after the recent 'incident'.................(sound of crickets chirping in the dark). ;)
link
Great minds etc...
;-)
Rob C
... edit tone in ps..
No woman deserves that ;)
I'm still getting used to this camera and have a couple of questions.
The DP2M needed a bit of positive exposure compensation - +.3 to +.7 I am finding just the opposite on the DP3M, these shots seem to come out of the camera overexposed. Is anyone else experiencing the same and if yes, how are you compensating for it?
Excellent, Hulyss!
I'm still getting used to this camera and have a couple of questions.
I am also finding that both cameras are using the same filename convention. This is wrecking havoc on my storage as I've overwritten some old files before I realized what was happening. How can I change the file name on one of the cameras so as to avoid this problem?
I don't know what is going on with the processing/jpeg conversion but you are getting some strong posterisation in the model images. :-\
Unless its my iPad screen?
I call this rig my "GigaSig". The Sigma DP3M mounted on a GigaPan Epic 100 robotic panorama head. Easy setup and works very well. Sample pano below was stitched from 12 frames using AutoPano Pro 3 (highly recommended).
(http://www.pbase.com/scho/image/149672755/original.jpg)
This is very impressive. I thought Gigapan was useful only with their software and was intended for a large number of stitched images. You're using it with 12 shots....is this just gear overkill or does it serve a useful purpose for the less than 20 shot stitch?The software supplied by Gigapan was quite basic and prone to crashing frequently on my Mac so I switched to AutoPano Pro which is really excellent. This sample pano was one of my first trials using the GigaPan with the Sigma DP3M. I will be doing larger panos soon where the automation and precision will be quite beneficial. Its is also fun to use. ;D
I call this rig my "GigaSig". The Sigma DP3M mounted on a GigaPan Epic 100 robotic panorama head. Easy setup and works very well. Sample pano below was stitched from 12 frames using AutoPano Pro 3 (highly recommended).
(http://www.pbase.com/scho/image/149672755/original.jpg)
Would the Epic base model be enough with a Sigma DP-M?
Can the buffer keep up with your Epic's shooting speed?
You shoot RAW b.t.w.? At full res?
How well does your software take care of blending issues at the edges of the frames? I have this slight problem with panos shot with a DP2M using a rotating head on my tripod.
thanks!
I'm not sure if the basic Epic is OK for the DPxM. I asked which model to purchase and was told Epic 100 for the Sigma DPxMs. The Epic 100 will also work with my Leica M9. There is a timing setting that needs to be adjusted for the camera processing speed (extremely slow with the DPxMs). I had mine set initially for 12 seconds but had some overrun problems but now at 16 seconds per frame I haven't run into any problems yet. Yes, I shoot raw at full res. I haven't seen any blending issues with AutoPano Pro.
Hi,
Looks to be an excellent compliment to the Merrill's, to get extreme high resolution plus the pixel sharpness of the Merrill's should be able to reproduce very large prints.
I am in the middle of researching which pano system to purchase RRS or Nodal Ninja in order to do stitching, panos to print very high resolution files and I bumped into your post, your panos looks impressively sharp.
An automated system might be an overkill for 2-4 stitched images but the Epic 100 is cheaper than RRS or NN.
Can you elaborate more on your workflow/setup.
Thank you
Abe
Hi Abe,
I don't think that I would need anything more than a tripod for only 3-4 shots, but if you want to make very large prints at high resolution then the gigapan might be worth looking at. Set-up is easy and if you are only using one camera with the epic 100 then it is a one time thing for set-up/calibration. Instructions are here (http://www.gigapan.com/cms/manuals/setting-up-the-gigapan-epic-100). When I start a new pano just mount the epic 100 on a sturdy tripod and level the device with camera mounted on the unit. Check camera alignment when attaching. Turn on camera, set fixed ISO, WB, exposure, and focus. If you are using a very slow shutter speed you could also set the 2 sec selftimer for shutter release. If you do make sure that your preset processing time in the epic 100 is adjusted to account for this. Turn on the epic 100, and when "New Panorama" appears on screen press OK, go through the checklist that pops up, using the directional arrow buttons direct the camera to the scene area that you want as the upper left corner of your pano (using LCD live view), next do the same for lower right corner, you will see info on pano dimensions and number of shots, press OK and let the epic 100 do its' thing. After a shoot I just dump the sd card files to a folder on my computer, batch them through SPP with preset WB, color mode, etc. and output 16 bit tifs to another folder. Open AutoPano Pro, point it to the output folder, it will find and organize all of your pano files (can be for just one or several panos), present previews for each pano, and then you have the option to either edit or render the panos for your desired output. Quick, easy, and good quality.
Have fun,
Carl
An automated system might be an overkill for 2-4 stitched images but the Epic 100 is cheaper than RRS or NN.
Thank you Carl
How do you mount the Epic 100 on the tripod? Does it have a plate? I have a RRS Ballhead with a gitso tripod, also can you mount the camera vertical?
Thanks again
Abe
I also use a RRS bullhead and just attach a small flat RRS camera plate to the epic for mounting. No you cannot mount vertically and no need to do that. The epic shoots multi rows and columns to cover your pano area.
Thank you
What small flat RRS plates are compatible with the Merrill's?
Hey this is pretty interesting for a pano newbie.
RRS user(s): why is it faster and easier to do a large panorama with RRS freehand rotation equipment vs EPIC or a Nodal Ninja - Fanotec rotator with detents? (eg, a deluxe RD16, with 16 angle interval detent options 3.75% to 120% available without having to swap out detent rings)
Currently I am attempting single-row pano with manual rotation of the ball head base (yes, rotator would be handier, but I am not sinking money into it until I learn the software - Hugin - and manage to produce OK single row panos of some local scenery).
Epic/Epic100 looks pretty simple, but may be heavier than other options. I note that RRS has a replacement bracket with central Arca-Swiss-like clamp for GigaPan products, allowing more precise No Parallax Point placement.
I don't think I would want to be doing multi row and column panos manually.
Have you every shot a multi row pano manually ? It sounds like your GP is the only way you've ever shot.
It's so simple and there are advantages to working manually.
Have you every shot a multi row pano manually ? It sounds like your GP is the only way you've ever shot.
It's so simple and there are advantages to working manually.
Hi Abe,
I don't think that I would need anything more than a tripod for only 3-4 shots, but if you want to make very large prints at high resolution then the gigapan might be worth looking at. Set-up is easy and if you are only using one camera with the epic 100 then it is a one time thing for set-up/calibration. Instructions are here (http://www.gigapan.com/cms/manuals/setting-up-the-gigapan-epic-100). When I start a new pano just mount the epic 100 on a sturdy tripod and level the device with camera mounted on the unit. Check camera alignment when attaching. Turn on camera, set fixed ISO, WB, exposure, and focus. If you are using a very slow shutter speed you could also set the 2 sec selftimer for shutter release. If you do make sure that your preset processing time in the epic 100 is adjusted to account for this. Turn on the epic 100, and when "New Panorama" appears on screen press OK, go through the checklist that pops up, using the directional arrow buttons direct the camera to the scene area that you want as the upper left corner of your pano (using LCD live view), next do the same for lower right corner, you will see info on pano dimensions and number of shots, press OK and let the epic 100 do its' thing. After a shoot I just dump the sd card files to a folder on my computer, batch them through SPP with preset WB, color mode, etc. and output 16 bit tifs to another folder. Open AutoPano Pro, point it to the output folder, it will find and organize all of your pano files (can be for just one or several panos), present previews for each pano, and then you have the option to either edit or render the panos for your desired output. Quick, easy, and good quality.
Have fun,
Carl
Hello Carl,
I would like to know you said that you use AutoPano Pro, whats your reason you chose this over PTgui and others?
Already got the Epic 100 waiting to arrive is the plate for the Epic from RRS, should arrive today and will try it on Sunday, will try to post some examples some NYC skylines.
Just finished preparing my PC to handle the huge files, fitted with 24GB of RAM which on a Win 7 Pro 16GB is usable the rest is allocated for something which I don't know, still trying to figure out why and how can make use of all the ram without massing up the whole system which happened.
Thank you for your guidance
Abe
Hello,
Here is my first samples of the DP3
I continue to be absolutely astounded by the detail rendering of these little bricks.
(http://rsadams.smugmug.com/Other/Fine-Art-Photos/i-vzc5Dwh/0/L/_SDI0110-L.jpg)
(http://rsadams.smugmug.com/Other/Fine-Art-Photos/i-Qj8ZMwB/1/XL/_SDI0110-XL.jpg)
Here's a link to a full size image: http://rsadams.smugmug.com/Other/Fine-Art-Photos/i-vzc5Dwh/0/O/_SDI0110.jpg
you should shoot in raw, it will look even sharper.
What makes you think I don't shoot RAW? These are uploads to SmugMug.
I shoot RAW to Sigma SPP to 16 bitt tiff to LR5 to "publish to" SmugMug for net display.
Rand
(http://img.ihere.org/uploads/e9c086dcbf.jpg) (http://img.ihere.org)
(http://img.ihere.org/uploads/9d8bd69437.jpg) (http://img.ihere.org)
(http://img.ihere.org/uploads/45f560c67f.jpg) (http://img.ihere.org)
(http://img.ihere.org/uploads/762bbdd051.jpg) (http://img.ihere.org)
(http://img.ihere.org/uploads/995e21ea73.jpg) (http://img.ihere.org)
(http://img.ihere.org/uploads/99b69de9a9.jpg) (http://img.ihere.org)
(http://img.ihere.org/uploads/60e084f26d.jpg) (http://img.ihere.org)
... gmant's photos deserve a top of page too, and we want more!
I really cannot understand why Sigma is not building in a viewfinder for obvious pro or passionate users.
This is not a mom-pop camera.
That's really fine lighting, composition and colors! Excellent1
Fall is coming, I'm looking forward to using the DP3M for nature and landscapes.
(http://www.mkuhlmann.net/DP3-LL/DP3M0410.jpg)
francois:
This is in Switzerland, near Jaun to be precise. More pics will follow soon, the colors here are getting just amazing!
Eight-frame focus stack in Helicon.
(http://rsadams.smugmug.com/Still-Life/Still-LIfe/i-pJz2KRz/0/XL/Stack%20Two%20Final-XL.jpg)
So I assume that there is no way of automating the individual focus points in the stack with these cameras, right? Meaning you used live view and manually set focus for each of the shots? Was that a difficult process, and do you think it could be achieved in the field shooting landscapes?
I'm renting one of these devils for a few days next month. Too expensive for me to just take the plunge without knowing if it's something I could use for sellable work, in a practical sense.
Let me add that the Foveon sensor is very sensitive to under exposure. So when your rental arrives make your first tests be to dial in an appropriate ex-comp setting. E.g. w/ my DP2 I start at +.7, and w/ the DP3 it is +.3.next public release of rawdigger (www.rawdigger.com) will support Merrill's raw files, so you can see raw histogramm for the current generations of Sigma cameras and see how your metering + exposure compensation corresponds w/ raw channels saturation.
I am thinking about buying a DP3 for landscape photography, but I am a little bit concerned about the color accuracy produced by the Foveon sensor.Colors usually look very true to personal impression, unless one of the channels gets clipped. If that happens they're totally off. Unfortunately the red channel clips very fast with the Merrills. Subjects like red flowers need consideration in this regard, subjects like bright lights are virtually impossible not looking severely clipped without rendering the rest of the scene unusable due to extreme underexposure needed for the lights.
I am thinking about buying a DP3 for landscape photography, but I am a little bit concerned about the color accuracy produced by the Foveon sensor. I use a Pentax 645D, so I have high expectations in this regard. How do autumn colors look with this camera?I'd stick with the Pentax 645D!!!
Jan
That sounds like an interesting option. But I would like to reduce the weight even more, so the Merrill, combined with a Sony RX1R and/or a Ricoh GR is probably going to be my travel gear. The whole 645D setup with 3 lenses, big tripod and all accessories is really nice but weights more than 10kg.Well, then let's make a deal. You get my DP3M + RX1R and I will only take your 645D setup... ;)
I have another question about the Merrills. If I buy a Merrill in Japan, can I switch the menu to English or is it Japanese only?According to the official japanese website, the japanese version of the DP3 features the same languages as anywhere else.
Yes, manually set. At any given aperture and distance-to-subject, a little practice makes it fairly easy & repeatable. Even easier for landscape distances and takes fewer frames at optimum aperture (for sharpness) for good front to back depth. I use a Hoodman loupe sometimes when I need to see my points more precisely. For this image, a couple of practice runs got me dialed in. I hate fly-by-wire manual focus in general, but the the sound produced by the Sigma's focusing actually helps me be more precise - go figure!
I think you'll easily get the feel for it. I'd reccomend testing at home for landscape distances at you preferred aperture. Being able to check stack quality immediately will go a long way toward getting a routine that will be dependable in the field.
Let me add that the Foveon sensor is very sensitive to under exposure. So when your rental arrives make your first tests be to dial in an appropriate ex-comp setting. E.g. w/ my DP2 I start at +.7, and w/ the DP3 it is +.3.
Under exposure will produce an inordinate increase in shadow noise, and when severe, ugly and uncorrectable banding. These cameras have stunning image quality, but within very limited parameters. I truly love mine and would probably give up my other gear before I did the Merrills. Addictive.
Rand
So I had a rented DP2M to use last weekend, and a Canon 6D. I like the 6D (and may still buy one at some point), but I ordered a DP2 immediately. The sharpness is hardly to be believed, and the tonal smoothness compared to my other digital gear reminds me of the difference between 35mm and 6X7 MF film.
Actually, working with the DP2 reminds me a bit of using MF and 4X5 film cameras in another way: You have to be extra attentive to exposure and composition. The Foveon highlight clipping can be very sharp, and the 6D seemed to have quite a bit more dynamic range than the Sigma. But, when you get exposure taken care of properly, the resulting file is a thing of beauty.
People complain about Foveon color balance, but I find it no more difficult to handle in raw conversion than any other sensor, other than the fact that SPP itself is so slow and cumbersome. As soon as Adobe begins supporting the Merrill raw files, that problem will go away.
So now I have to decide which DPX to get next. I really see a DP3M as inevitable, and probably a DP1M as well. Would most of you suggest the DP3M next, or the DP1M, for typical landscape use?
T minus 20 hours......until First Official Light for my just-arrived DP3M. Batteries are charged, Milich grip/L bracket attached, 52mm hood and polarizer located, can't wait! Happily, this weekend is likely the height of fall color.
Has anyone determined the entrance pupil / "No Parallax Point" (wrongly AKA "nodal point") for DP3M?
I agree, I love my DP3M so much I'm not using my DP2M that much any more. God I love this thing.
(http://www.mkuhlmann.net/DP3-LL/DP3M0535.jpg)
Always pleasing seeing new satisfied users :)
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1375925_10200813505088056_1269561392_n.jpg)
I measured 'nodal point' while rotating camera with stopped down diaphragm and using a slit laser. For a stable laser across the diaphragm, I found these measurements, based from center of tripod mount:
DP1M = 38mm
DP2M = 32mm
DP3M = 36mm
I then CNC machined and powder-coated a mounting bracket using Front Panel Express. I can post of photo later. It works well with all 3 bodies.
I recently used the bracket hiking around Lake Louise and the Burgess Shale; it was very convenient.
absolutely no financial interest here, but this is my solution for a my MP-2M and 3M
http://reallyrightstuff.com/Items.aspx?code=NodalSlides&key=cat
I bought the 192 since the you can also rotate the clamp and use it as a bracket for any purpose.
Note the MPL's work too, and are a bit less, but you move the camera in one and the slide in the other. Also a level in the II
next public release of rawdigger (www.rawdigger.com) will support Merrill's raw files, so you can see raw histogramm for the current generations of Sigma cameras and see how your metering + exposure compensation corresponds w/ raw channels saturation.
sorry - there's 3 RRS '192 packages' on the page you link to - which one did you buy/recommend?
Incredibly striking. what processing did you use the get the eye like this?
Thanks,
Bill
A bad photo:So bad it's brilliant.
(http://www.mkuhlmann.net/DP3-LL/DP3M0664.jpg)
On the other hand, once enthusiasts and pros have tried a Foveon sensor, they get quite interested. I am a mere enthusiast, and despite the PITA of having dual workflow for x3f and Bayer CFA RAW data, I am enjoying the camera the more I work with it and SPP. First DP2M, then after a year, DP3M (WOW), and now I am looking at eBay and dealers for used or new DP1M. I noticed that there are VERY FEW used DP#M on the market. Few cameras have been sold new, but if first time users are being alienated, I would expect to see more used copies. Nope - there might be one new posting of a used camera, worldwide, per week at best.
Sometimes, buying immediately is better: witness the Rootes Group's Hillman Imp.
My maw'n'lo bought one of the very first off the line - they were built within ten miles of her house. I had a little Ford Popular at the time, and it was reaching its fifth or sixth birthday and I wanted something newer, more radical. I tried out her Imp and it was a revelation in acceleration and the benefit of an opening tailgate window. (Think 9ft Colorama background rolls.) So, off went the Pop and in came the Imp. Except. Except that the Coventry Climax engine that had allowed the excitement has subsequently been detuned, and the suspension altered somewhat too, I felt.
Sometimes they do get it right first time and then eff it up later.
Rob C
Amazon craziness. I don't like it: On the German amazon until a few days ago the DP3M sold for about EUR 800, then it suddenly dropped to EUR 730 (so I bought one), and later the same day it dropped to EUR 530, now it's up at 570.Wow, I just checked www.amazon.de and the DP3 Merrill is going for Euro 475 (for orders shipped to the U.S.) plus shipping for about Euro 17. Taking the purchase all the way to the end, the total is Euro 493 for the Sigma DP3 Merrill and 5-10 business day shipping to the U.S., which comes to about US$667, as of November 23.
...
B&H (and maybe others) is selling it for $699.The DP2 Merrill is $699 as well, though the DP1 Merrill is $799-discounted $200 from its original full price rather than its previous sale price.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/909800-REG/sigma_sigma_dp3_merrill_compact.html
I've had the same question before so I looked a bit in possible workflows. This one here seems to work for me:
1. Take out Sigma DP3M.
2. Focus on eye under good lightning conditions.
3. Press shutter.
4. Done.
Meanwhile :
... image ...
Great shot - but why to people always have to make additional holes in their bodies?I used to agree with you, but after looking (more than once) at Hulyss's wonderful shot (has Lula ever hosted anything more intelligently erotic?), I think I might have been wrong...
Never understood that ....
Great shot - but why to people always have to make additional holes in their bodies?
Never understood that ....
For the same reason that some people have to list the gear they shoot with in their signature on a forum.
Never understood that...
Both are about some level of vanity, I'd guess.
To each his own.
OFF TOPIC:
Ear piercing is very quick, being performed with a modified staple gun loaded with the starter earring stud, and feels like a quick pinch. The ear lobes are mildly tender to touch for about 6 weeks until the hole is healed. It is not too different from having a shallow scratch - not noticeable except when doing the obligatory twice-a-day washing of the lobes. After the six weeks are up, the lobes are completely normal. Other sites may be more problematic.
Hey, I like wearing earrings and other jewelry. Clip-on earrings are incredibly uncomfortable for any long period of time, whereas the pierced-ear earrings are perfectly comfortable and unnoticeable by the wearer.
Back on topic.
I want to use graduated ND filters on my DP#Ms.
Is the standard 100mm/ 4" holder "too big" to fit on the camera when attached to a tripod?
Do people hold up bare filters? Use small holders?
Back on topic.
I want to use graduated ND filters on my DP#Ms.
Is the standard 100mm/ 4" holder "too big" to fit on the camera when attached to a tripod?
Do people hold up bare filters? Use small holders?
Why would you do that?
Rob C
I'm very satisfied of those cameras, but sometimes I have some color consistecy problems:
sometimes blue has cyan or magenta cast. (easy to recover in photoshop)
sometimes deep yellow becomes red. (very difficult to recover in photoshop)
Do you have the same problem? Do you have a solution?
Beyond this I love those cameras for images fully of color detail and sharpness.
I use the DP3 only when I use LED. I found that Foveon react better than the D800 to led lights, especially in transitions between light and shadows.
Hi Hulyss,
I am curious of what LED you use for studio work with your DP3, I would like to use my DP3 in studio setup, for product and fineart photography not portraiture or fashion.
Thank you
Can the DPxM cameras be connected to an iPad or iPad mini so that you can have a larger screen with which to compose a photograph?
It is absolutely impossible. It is hardware restriction. But it might change in the next DP generation ;)
SIGMA SP specifications: Code name "Brickma"
- New Merrill+ "dragon" Foveon sensor , ISO range 100-6400 (pushed 50-8000). 18Mp x 3 = 54 Mp.
- 1000 ISO shoots as clean as 100 ISO shoots.
- New processor TRUE III engine for faster processing and video.
- Video H264 - 30fps / 60fps
- Batteries life up to 600 frames.
- First grade aluminium body and magnesium chassis.
- Extensively weather-sealed, all joins and ports featuring protective lips and bungs.
- 3" TFT LCD monitor with brightness/color adjustment and AR coating - 921,000 dots.
- Double SDXC card slot.
- New 3Focus feature : AF, MF by the lens or MF by a custom wheel on the back (à la DP2s). Continuous Focus for video and sport action.
- Customisable back wheel.
- Swappable IR filter.
- Electronic level.
- Wifi remote control + tethering options (remote not included).
- Electronic finder - orientable 2.4m dot OLED display pluggable on the hotshoe (not included).
- AF assist lamp.
- No curtain, no mirror, no mechanical pieces for an extra long life.
SIGMA SX lens line specifications:
- The world first Leaf shutter compact lenses.
- For now, 3 lenses available - 19mm f2.8 - 35mm f1.4 and 50mm f1.2
- Electronic leaf shutter 30 sec to 1/8000 + bulb mode possible.
- First grade aluminium.
- Extensively weather-sealed
(http://www.hulyssbowman.com/tempo/tempopro/SIGMA/BrickMa.jpg)
It is absolutely impossible. It is hardware restriction. But it might change in the next DP generation ;)
SIGMA SP specifications: Code name "Brickma"
- New Merrill+ "dragon" Foveon sensor , ISO range 100-6400 (pushed 50-8000). 18Mp x 3 = 54 Mp.
- 1000 ISO shoots as clean as 100 ISO shoots.
- New processor TRUE III engine for faster processing and video.
- Video H264 - 30fps / 60fps
- Batteries life up to 600 frames.
- First grade aluminium body and magnesium chassis.
- Extensively weather-sealed, all joins and ports featuring protective lips and bungs.
- 3" TFT LCD monitor with brightness/color adjustment and AR coating - 921,000 dots.
- Double SDXC card slot.
- New 3Focus feature : AF, MF by the lens or MF by a custom wheel on the back (à la DP2s). Continuous Focus for video and sport action.
- Customisable back wheel.
- Swappable IR filter.
- Electronic level.
- Wifi remote control + tethering options (remote not included).
- Electronic finder - orientable 2.4m dot OLED display pluggable on the hotshoe (not included).
- AF assist lamp.
- No curtain, no mirror, no mechanical pieces for an extra long life.
SIGMA SX lens line specifications:
- The world first Leaf shutter compact lenses.
- For now, 3 lenses available - 19mm f2.8 - 35mm f1.4 and 50mm f1.2
- Electronic leaf shutter 30 sec to 1/8000 + bulb mode possible.
- First grade aluminium.
- Extensively weather-sealed
There are rumors for this camera to have an Arca-Swiss compatible rail on two sides.
Uwe ;-)
Ordered mine yesterday. for £290 (ex-vat) it's rude not to.
but it's not shipping till next week, annoying when it says 'in-stock' when it obviously isn't.
I'm looking forward to seeing what this sensor/lens combo is capable of.
Hello,
I would like to know if anyone has any experience with Watson IA-BH125C / DB-65 / BP-41 / D-Li106 Lithium-Ion Battery Pack (3.7V, 1000mAh)
Link to B&H
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/835961-REG/watson_b_3903_ia_bh125c_battery_pack_f_samsung.html (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/835961-REG/watson_b_3903_ia_bh125c_battery_pack_f_samsung.html) replacements for the Merrill's, one review says its the same as the manufacturers but more then half the price.
Thank you
Jasper National Park, Alberta, CA
This camera must come from a parallel universe. The machinery is crazy, software unbelievably horrible and unique, but images can be out of this world.
Hyluss, what's the flash you're using? the one on the Fujigma ;D ?
EDIT: got it, actually, Fuji EF X20 am I right?
What do you mean by "using correctly the focus functions"?
Just got my DP1M today, BTW ;D
Right, but this works with all Merrills I reckon? I was thinking of getting a flash, I'll check the Fuji out then.
BTW Hulyss, do you have an example of a shot taken with DP3M + flash?
I'm still not sure if I want a flash for the DP3M. I'm considering buying an SD1 and then I could borrow my brother's cobra if needed. BTW have you tried the SD1? It is available for less than 1000 euros now and I have to say, it's very tempting...
Well I am new to the DP3M, I like the details from the images when they are shot with care, but one feature in particular I could not believe it behaves the way it does. When in Manual mode, the on screen histogram goes away and there is no way to enable it! The histogram will be there in any mode but M. Shocking that they did not allow the histogram in M. I know it has quirks but this is almost unforgivable, especially for a camera that was only released in early 2013.
Alan
Color cast show when sensor is aging...
Color cast show when sensor is ageing. My Dp3m start to show color cast but after 30k shoots.
i start to suspect it;s sigma's glass.
I have the Sigma 18-35 (Nikon mount) and it's superb. No colour cast.is that new 18-35mm? i was referring to glass aging over time. :)
Glass aging yellow over time: that is due to either 1. cement between elements aging over time or 2. radioactive components in glass aging the actual glass
I am not talking about a uniform color cast, as in white balance, but a lack of uniformity from left to right across the frame. My DP3m has had this problem from new out of the box.