Luminous Landscape Forum
Raw & Post Processing, Printing => Printing: Printers, Papers and Inks => Topic started by: Rob Reiter on October 12, 2010, 05:04:52 pm
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Anybody using this canvas wrapping system? I tried the 12x16 sample kit and it worked well. Has anyone used it large prints?
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I just noticed them today, and ordered the two sample kits to give it a spin. I tried doing a few the standard way (stretcher with staplers) and it was just so much hassle to get right I gave up.
When you tried the EasyWrappe (guh, what a name!) did you do mirrored wrap edges? If so, how hard was it to line up the mirrored edges with the edge of the stretcher bars? That seems like the hardest thing to do with the EasyWrappe system.
Neil
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This is the same system as the Hahnemuhle system only cheaper (which is nice). I have done 24x36 with a mirrored edge and did not find it hard to line up. I have done about 5 or 6 with this system. The only thing I personally don't like is the edge not wrapping around to the back. We may try a sample and wrap to the back and staple. I just think it gives it a more professional looking edge. But, the system is very easy to do and well constructed.
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Hi, Neile. I did soft stretched edges and although I didn't do anything special this time, I think in the future I would pencil in lines on the back of the canvas to indicate where to lay the bars. Overall, that small print was easy to wrap-sorry-"wrappe". BTW, Breathing Color is the company who once called their premier inkjet paper "Kisses". If I remember correctly, that was a precursor to their current "Elegance" paper, one of my favorites. It's a good thing they changed the name. I refused to buy a paper I would have to identify as Breathing Color Kisses!
As for stapling a flap of canvas around to the back side, that would not be difficult. I don't know if I will do that-the current method seem quite nice. And the corners are definitely cleaner looking than the typical folded canvas corners I usually see. My biggest concern with the system is that it is made for defined sizes, not for a chop service to fit the more oddball dimensions most of my clients need. I'm going to try and chop to size from the longer bars. Some double-sided tape for the corners and hammering in staples between each corner brace shouldn't add much to the assembly time.
All in all, I like the concept. I never want to try traditional stapling, for just the reasons you mentioned.
Also Neil, I've been really pleased with your folio covers. Several clients have had me produce folios for them and m any more are interested. I hung a piece of 3x8 foot galvanized sheet metal and display a folio cover and twelve pictures on it, held in place with little round BB sized magnets.
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Cool, thanks for the detail on the new stretcher bars. Can't wait for my order to arrive, I got some nice photos from the Washington Coast this weekend, one of which would be perfect on canvas. Not having to have canvas to stretch around the back means I can print a slightly larger canvas (the perils of a printer that's only 17" wide :()
Glad you like the covers. Can you e-mail me a photo of that display? I'd love to see what it looks like.
Neil
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I am working on a review of this product. I bought into the system when it came out.
So far I love it. It is very easy to use
Last night I did 2 20x44 canvas wraps for a client. Total time was around 15 minutes. The best part is no staples on the back...overall I think the end product looks more professional than anything I have done.
If your already invested in a expensive stretching machine this system is more and likely not for you, unless you want to get rid of staples. The added bonus to me is that you don't need the extra blank canvas on all corners for stretching. I am limited because I run a Epson 7900. Before I had to use 3/4inch stretcher bars to get 20x30's, now I can get 20x30's with a 1.75in stretcher bar!
Price isn't to bad if you have bought into high quality stretcher bars
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This "Breathing Color Easy Wrappe" is a GREAT product! Same as the Hahnemuhle system but a better price.
I've tried the traditional Gallery Wrap technique with the wrapped corners and was never really happy with the results.
The Easy Wrappe is just that "Easy" and it finished results look great!
BTW in the Breathing Color video of the "Easy Wrappe" there is a cutter being used that I can't find out anything about. Does anyone know where to get this cutter?
Regards,
Alan
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The cutter used in the videos is in production and will be available at some point, this according to BC.
I placed my first order for the EasyWrappe Pro bars in 60" length. I decided to try chopping them to the size I need since few of my clients will have pieces that fit standard sizes to the inch. Even if I wanted to offer only sizes that fit the lengths provided, I'd have to stock all the sizes to cover my bases. I strongly suggested to my BC sales rep that they offer a design that easily allows for chopping, and at the very least, provide rolls of their archival double sided tape to cover the ends of bars that have been chopped.
This appears to be a great system but still needs a few small improvements. After I try a chop/wrap I'll let this forum know how it went.
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I got my bars and a sample pint of the new coating in the mail yesterday. Challenge will be finding a way to try it before heading to Utah/Arizona for two weeks this Saturday.
Neil
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If you have a canvas ready, Neil, it really does take only 5 minutes or less to
wrappe wrap it.
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Wow just watched the demo video on Breathing Color website This looks great and easy to do. I am going to have to try this myself.
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This appears to be a great system but still needs a few small improvements. After I try a chop/wrap I'll let this forum know how it went.
OK. I have over a dozen canvases to wrap and a large order of EasyWrappe Pro bars of various sizes arrived today. As it turns out, almost all the images have fractional inch sizes in at least one dimension, so I have to chop bars to size, as I expected. Plus, BC doesn't offer bars in some sizes-19", 25" and others that would have worked if they had been available.
Cutting to the chase, it takes about 20 minutes for me to prep, chop, assemble and stretch a custom sized canvas. Let me explain the issues that crop up when not using their precut bars, and the simple solutions.
I have a power miter saw, and it's much better than trying to do the chopping with a hand saw. Some of my cuts were a quarter inch or less from an end. When an end is cut from these bars, the plastic corner braces/guides featured in the demo video no longer work, as a needed notch in the bar is removed or it's placement from the bar end is changed by the cut and that notch will now no longer fit appropriately in the corner brace.
The braces are a convenience but not a necessity. Measure the distance from each edge of the canvas to the point at which the image and border for that side meet and transfer that measurement to the back of the canvas, then draw a rectangle on the back that represents the extent of the image. Everything outside the rectangle is border. Now you can easily lay the bars along the drawn lines, corner to corner and use the double sided tape that is on each bar to hold it to the canvas in the proper alignment.
When chopping off one end, the piece of tape that folds over the cut end is also removed, so buy a roll of heavy duty double sided tape and just replace what you cut off. Easy.
Continue to trim the outside edge of canvas as shown in the demo video and apply the bead of bookbinder's glue that BC sells at along the edge of the bars as they lay on the canvas, then fold as necessary and insert the U-pins/nails supplied with the bars. On an uncut bar, there are slots you can insert and hammer the pins into, but a chopped bar will be lacking these on at least one side of each corner. In any case, simply use a pin to make a little indentation and drill a starter hole for the pins to be hammered into. The started hole itself may not even be needed-the pins are sturdy enough just to hammer in.
While not as fast to assemble as precut bars, chopping these to a needed length is a great boon if you frequently need to accommodate odd sizes and the results are just as good. I should mention that BC sells an extender bar that will allow you to simply cut a piece out of the middle of a longer bar with a straight, non-beveled cut. The extender bar will hold the two new lengths together to create the needed length without destroying the ability to use the corner braces or the need for any of the other work arounds I came up with to deal with the removal of a bar end. But you have to buy the extenders and I don't see the time saved by their use to be significant.
The EasyWrappe system is pretty darn good. The resulting pieces look very clean and avoid the hassle of staples and the sometimes awkward folded corners on traditional stretcher bars. If you just do the occasional stretch and don't mind limiting you images to the sizes you can make from precut bars, it's a super-simple way to finish your canvases. The results are sturdy and the 1.75" thick bars look good even on smaller pieces and are really welcome on the bigger sizes. As designed, the canvas does not wrap around to the back of the bars, but is held by the double sided tape that runs along the edge of every bar. If you want to staple, it's a simple matter to add 1/4" to 1/2" additional border and staple away after the frame is assembled.
Chopping and custom sizing is not at all difficult with this system. Cleaning up all the sawdust from the chop saw after doing a over a dozen frames...that's something else!
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I wonder how long the tape will last? I assume this is the same system that has been advertised before by another company so I guess it has been in the marketplace for a year or two, but having to rely on tape that may or may not be archival and may or may not stick for generations is a bit of a concern. Does anyone know if this tape has ever been tested? And also how well does it hold up in a hot, humid environ? Large canvases sometimes can sag if not stretched enough. Seems like a good alternative for smaller prints that don't need to last a long time though.
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Thanks for the detailed write-up Rob. Makes me even more excited to give this a try when I'm back from vacation!
Neil
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According to BC, the bead of bookbinder's glue is what supplies most of the strength for holding the canvas to the bars, not the tape. If there is a concern about the tape coming undone anyway, just extend the canvas edge behind the bars and staple. Call BC and ask about the archival properties of the tape. When talking to my rep he may have mentioned that, but I don't remember. A hot humid environment can stress any mounting system. Even on large canvases, this system is quite tight. Corner bracing (supplied) and cross bracing (available) will help even more.
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Instead of trying to cut the stretcher bars custom, why not just print out the image to accommodate the sizes? You would probably never notice the minor size discrepancies in the image, due to reformatting the size.
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Instead of trying to cut the stretcher bars custom, why not just print out the image to accommodate the sizes?
Because I print for clients who often supply their own files and it is not my prerogative to alter their work. That and the lack of bars cut to many sizes I could reasonably expect to need, such as 25" (I have four 25" square prints to wrap right now.)
But I certainly would like it if it were a perfect world...
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And also how well does it hold up in a hot, humid environ? Large canvases sometimes can sag if not stretched enough. Seems like a good alternative for smaller prints that don't need to last a long time though.
Is there some tension created on the canvas at all? I have seen similar concepts where by turning the bars there is some tension created on small frames but with increased frame sizes that method will not be enough. Over the last two weeks I made a 55" pneumatic canvas stretcher to make it easier with larger frames. I see 60" bars mentioned in this thread ...
met vriendelijke groeten, Ernst Dinkla
Dinkla Gallery Canvas Wrap Actions for Photoshop
http://www.pigment-print.com/dinklacanvaswraps/index.html
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The system has corner braces that help to tighten the canvas. There are also cross braces if you need them for larger canvases. I have had some up for a year now that are as tight as the day they were put together. It's a nice system. The issue for me is that the artist I work with want the canvas to wrap around the edge and staple. If you are going to staple than you would not use the glue. I do have some 60" bars here but have not gone that large yet.
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The system has corner braces that help to tighten the canvas. There are also cross braces if you need them for larger canvases. I have had some up for a year now that are as tight as the day they were put together. It's a nice system. The issue for me is that the artist I work with want the canvas to wrap around the edge and staple. If you are going to staple than you would not use the glue. I do have some 60" bars here but have not gone that large yet.
The braces make the frame stronger but doesn't increase the tension. On a 1.4x1.4 meter frame the canvas has more slack that you like to take out when the frame is made. Turning over the bars will not be enough then I guess.
met vriendelijke groeten, Ernst Dinkla
Dinkla Gallery Canvas Wrap Actions for Photoshop
http://www.pigment-print.com/dinklacanvaswraps/index.html
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Actually tapping on the corner braces does increase the tension.
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The system has corner braces that help to tighten the canvas. There are also cross braces if you need them for larger canvases. I have had some up for a year now that are as tight as the day they were put together. It's a nice system. The issue for me is that the artist I work with want the canvas to wrap around the edge and staple. If you are going to staple than you would not use the glue. I do have some 60" bars here but have not gone that large yet.
Actually, BC strongly recommends that you use the archival glue with the EasyWrappe system. I also think having the canvas continue around the back edge looks more finished, which is easy enough to do by adding 3/4" of media to each dimension. The glue is what holds the system together (ha ha), but the staples on the back are more for that traditional finished "look." It holds that extra media on the rear down, but really doesn't do much in terms of strenthening the wrap. This is a surprisingly easy system for "standard" canvas print sizes....
:) ken
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This looks so easy (compared to using stretcher bars)
I want to order a starter supply to try this system out.
I know this is subjective but is there a standard (or most used) size for your enlargements?
I have files from Hasselblad which are square and the rest from my 1ds 1 and 1ds mk III
I am trying to figure out what size easywrap bars to order to accomadate the most usage
I am thinking about using 18x24 or 16 x 24 (without serious cropping) for the Canon then using the 16 or 24 bars for my square images.
Any practical experience would be appreciated
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It really is a personal preference. I can tell you by the orders I get that I have not done anything smaller than 24"x36".
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I finished up the 12x16 sample frame (mirror image of 1.75inches on each side) This looks great and has a professonal looking finish.
used the glossy glamour II (actually bought it over five years ago and set on shelf never opened, still looks good). The finish looks great (I did not dilute with matte finish) added about 25% distilled water (heated to 80 degrees). No streaks or other blemishes.
the framing part only took about 15 minutes (first time learners curve, I suppose)
I am now going to try and do larger images My printer is 24" (7600) so probably 20x30 (on 24" stock) leaving 2 inches on each side for the part that wraps around.
Anyone do 20 x30?
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I have framed up 5 20x30" using breathing color "Lyve" and also "Crystaline". They turned out very nice. :)
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This was a good thread and one of the few I've come across for the Breathing Color EasyWrappe Pro 1.75” gallery wrap hardware, so I thought I’d revive it.
I'm looking at doing some panos which are 72” long. Breathing Color says they only make these bars in up to 60” but they have a device called an “extender” which permits joining 2 other pieces together. By using the extender one can get longer wraps.
Has anyone used the extender? Does the extender compromise the strength of the frame or make the piece less than straight?
I'm debating going this way compared to doing a surface mount to gatorboard. Not sure if the gallery wrap would have equal or more market appeal than a surface mount.
Comments appreciated.
Thanks!
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I love the web.
I contacted the vendor and they sent me the following link. Look about half way down the page for a blurb and illustrations on how the extender works. Below that is a note on "fine turning" the finished wrap.
http://www.breathingcolor.com/blog/top-5-printmaking-tipstrickstechniques-%E2%80%93-march-%E2%80%9911/
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I'm debating going this way compared to doing a surface mount to gatorboard. Not sure if the gallery wrap would have equal or more market appeal than a surface mount.
I just did a 40" gallery wrap using the EasyWrappe system and honestly I don't think it holds up as well at the larger size (although I quite like it for smaller pieces). I found it was extremely difficult to get the mirror edge to align with the stretcher bars. I also question in the long run whether their tape plus a small bead of glue will truly hold it secure in the long-term.
Neil
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It seems to me that the tape really doesn't hold much after the frame is assembled as the canvas is stretched along the bar and is held securely at the corners. The little metal staples hold the corners together. Like someone said leaving extra and stapling is an option if one is really concerned about longevity.
I like the system very wel when compared to the traditional method of stretching canvas. I didn't like the price so went into production for myself doing my own stretchers. For those with a modest amount of wood working skill it isn't a tough project. You can get glue and tape from United manufacturers, staples and wood from local hardware distributers.
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I just did a 40" gallery wrap using the EasyWrappe system and honestly I don't think it holds up as well at the larger size (although I quite like it for smaller pieces). I found it was extremely difficult to get the mirror edge to align with the stretcher bars. I also question in the long run whether their tape plus a small bead of glue will truly hold it secure in the long-term.
Neil
I have done about 10 24" x 36" gallery wraps using the IG Wrap (EasyWrappe) system with the 1.75" bars and they have all come out quite well. The mirror edge alignment on the first two was off by about 1/16th of an inch, but that was due entirely to measuring errors by me and the amount of bleed that I initially factored in. (I now add 2.75" of mirror edge, thereby resulting in a full 1" bleed on all 4 sides ... which makes it easier for me to align the bars and trim the canvas). I just did 2 canvases this week and the mirror edge was spot-on. Now, whether the framed canvas will "hold up as well" is another story. I suppose only time will tell. However my customers like the final product.
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I just did a 40" gallery wrap using the EasyWrappe system and honestly I don't think it holds up as well at the larger size (although I quite like it for smaller pieces). I found it was extremely difficult to get the mirror edge to align with the stretcher bars. I also question in the long run whether their tape plus a small bead of glue will truly hold it secure in the long-term.
Neil
How does it not hold up well?
The tape holds the sides to the frame. I use double sided ATG tape with traditionally matted prints and it seems very stable.
Do your customers prefer a wrap or a surface mount on gatorboard?
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It seems to me that the tape really doesn't hold much after the frame is assembled as the canvas is stretched along the bar and is held securely at the corners. The little metal staples hold the corners together. Like someone said leaving extra and stapling is an option if one is really concerned about longevity.
I like the system very wel when compared to the traditional method of stretching canvas. I didn't like the price so went into production for myself doing my own stretchers. For those with a modest amount of wood working skill it isn't a tough project. You can get glue and tape from United manufacturers, staples and wood from local hardware distributers.
The real beauty of this system is the corner pieces that makes the rest of the process easy.
I do agree that a few minutes with a chop saw and either similar materials or an electric staple gun can produce the same results.
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I have done about 10 24" x 36" gallery wraps using the IG Wrap (EasyWrappe) system with the 1.75" bars and they have all come out quite well. The mirror edge alignment on the first two was off by about 1/16th of an inch, but that was due entirely to measuring errors by me and the amount of bleed that I initially factored in. (I know add 2.75" of mirror edge, thereby resulting in a full 1" bleed on all 4 sides ... which makes it easier for me to align the bars and trim the canvas). I just did 2 canvases this week and the mirror edge was spot-on. Now, whether the framed canvas will "hold up as well" is another story. I suppose only time will tell. However my customers like the final product.
Help me here. What do you man by “mirror edge?”
Have you done surface mounting? Do customers show a preference for one over the other?
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Since this thread is alive again I thought I would share some tips I developed during the process of doing a couple of dozen of these.
First, for aligning the frame with the picture. I print the images with mirror-image edges, which almost always makes the exact corners easy to spot on the image side of the canvas. I take a very fine sewing needle and poke it thru from the front at the exact corner and then place an ink dot on the back of the canvas just *inside* where the needle emerges. Then I make light pencil lines between these dots. (Doing the lines just a little inside the true corners keeps the lines visible as you position the bar assembly.)
Second, I don't crop my pictures to any specific aspect ratio, so 2 of the framing bars are never exactly the right length, and depending on what I'm after, sometimes 4 are not the right length. Adjusting the bars is best done in the middle, with a glued splice, not at the ends, where you have to cut at a angle and recreate the brace slot.
Third, after trying both ways, I am now leaving enough canvas to fold over the back. Its a neater and more secure job. However, I'm using glue instead of staples on the back for fear of splitting the relatively hard, thin wood of the frames.
Overall, I think I have to salute whoever did the original invention of this system. It's neat & it's nicely engineered.
--Milt--
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Just thought I'd add a few notes to this thread.
As far as alignment, when we prepare this system we carefully cut the edge a set distance from mirrorred line, and use some cut pieces of gator board to align the print to the edge. We have several of these on canvas that are smaller in size that show no signs of losing the bond that attaches. I believe the glue is critical, and as suggested the corner wedges should be inserted after the glue dries. Once the glue dries there is less tension on the ATG attached canvas, especially if the corners are inserted after it dries.
We only use the system for smaller canvases, we still hand stretched anything larger. The main reason is the cost of the stretcher + labor to stretch is less than the large bars. However, we do have some other products we stretch using the large bars and they have been quite popular.
One other thing I might mention, the system was invented and is manufactured by IGWRAP. In the US there are 3 distributors of the product ... one that many of you might not be aware of is Liberty Photo (http://www.libertyphotoproducts.com/product/pro-gallery-wrap-bars,8190,0.htm). They have been around for a long time (I have been a customer of theirs since the early 90's) and specialize in distribution to the lab industry, but anyone can purchase from them. They offer the IGWRAP system as well as many other items, including dye-sub aluminum systems, and novelty photo product production. They frequently have specials on the easy wrappe items, and I believe offer discounts based on quantities.
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Help me here. What do you man by “mirror edge?”
Have you done surface mounting? Do customers show a preference for one over the other?
A "mirror edge" is basically a digital clone of a defined amount of surface area around the four sides of your print that is then bent or folded over the stretcher bars to create the illusion that the print continues over the bars. While you can do it manually in Photoshop, I use "Perfect Resize" by Genuine Fractals. I don't do any canvas surface mounts.
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... Liberty Photo (http://www.libertyphotoproducts.com/product/pro-gallery-wrap-bars,8190,0.htm). They frequently have specials on the easy wrappe items, and I believe offer discounts based on quantities.
Basically, same list price as Breathing Color, but Liberty Photo currently has a 25% discount on the IG Wrap products. Pretty good deal!
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A "mirror edge" is basically a digital clone of a defined amount of surface area around the four sides of your print that is then bent or folded over the stretcher bars to create the illusion that the print continues over the bars. While you can do it manually in Photoshop, I use "Perfect Resize" by Genuine Fractals. I don't do any canvas surface mounts.
Cool! That way one doesn't give up a lot of the image real-estate, so to say, but gains the wrap around effect.
Thanks all for the other tips!!
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Does anyone know if the Lexjet Sunset HD Pro Wrap is the same as the BC EasyWrappe?
Mike
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Yeah, it looks like it. Way more limited size options though last time I looked.
Neil
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Does anyone know if the Lexjet Sunset HD Pro Wrap is the same as the BC EasyWrappe?
Funny you should ask. I was just on the phone with my LexJet rep and I told him that I was using the IG Wrap (EasyWrappe) system. He said that they had something comparable, but it wasn't from IG Wrap. Here are some links that he sent me:
http://www.youtube.com/LexJet#p/a/39C07570AC3F7152/2/wmKA6_O11JQ
http://www.lexjet.com/p-4217-LexJet-Sunset-HD-Pro-Stretcher-Kit-175-in-x-125-in.aspx
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Interesting. Similar concept but clearly different design. I love how they supply a push pin :) And doesn't look like they use a jig like the IG Wrap does.
Neil
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Interesting. Similar concept but clearly different design. I love how they supply a push pin :) And doesn't look like they use a jig like the IG Wrap does.
Neil
I don't see much difference in the design. Pretty much a copy, including the size, groove, corner wedge and staples holding the corners.
For those doing only a few, the fact you buy a single kit for each stretch is probably a nice thing, since with the others you have to buy several bars of each size, resulting in enough to do 4 stretches is a minimum. If doing a lot, the ability to mix and match sizes is nice for the IGWrap bars. These appear to be a little cheaper, although BC and Liberty discount these aggressively most of the time.
Personally I like the jig. seems to make the placement of the bars to achieve the correct stretch much more accurate. When placing the bars freeform like this I can see problems because you misplace one by a fraction.
Several of the tips in the video might be helpful for those using any of these systems (such as the push pin to locate corners).
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I agree, there's very little difference in the design. Really it looks like they've added another line of tape across the back (unnecessary because you can just staple gun it, which they do in the video anyway), and screws to hold the corner braces in.
I do like using the pin to align and then draw lines to get the jig (or no-jig) placement of the bars perfectly aligned for the mirrored edge.
The difference between the systems are likely just enough to avoid patent infringment lawsuits from IG Wrap :)
It looks like Lexjet now has the bars in boxes of 8 by length, instead of just pre-sized kits.
Neil