Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Cameras, Lenses and Shooting gear => Topic started by: MarkH on February 10, 2009, 09:48:44 am
-
I've used the Search functions already and have seen much discussion on camera/lense selection for many types of Safaris but most refer to shooting form a Vehicle.
My wife & I are headed to Tanzania in June for a 13 day walking safari with Hoopoe( http://www.hoopoe.com/treks (http://www.hoopoe.com/treks) walk on wild side.htm).
This particular safari concentrates on getting out of the vehicle and walking about, so the lens choices are potentially different.
I was wondering whether anyone here has experienced such a safari and has any recommendations? We have been shooting mostly underwater stuff for the last 8 years and really have no idea where to start.
I'm contemplating rental of a 500MM lens but it will cost over a grand for the 4 weeks I'll be gone. A new Canon 5D Matk II may be in the plan as well.
Been looking at urchase of a zoom telephoto but can't seem to make a choice so maybe someone can sway me.
We already own the following gear:
2 Canon 5D bodies
All canon glass:
24-105MM F4 IS (L)
14MM F2.8 (L)
16-35MM F2.8 (L)
135MM F2 (L)
85MM F1.2 (L)
300 F4.0 IS (L)
1.4X extender
100 MM macro
Thanks!
Mark
-
I've used the Search functions already and have seen much discussion on camera/lense selection for many types of Safaris but most refer to shooting form a Vehicle.
My wife & I are headed to Tanzania in June for a 13 day walking safari with Hoopoe( http://www.hoopoe.com/treks (http://www.hoopoe.com/treks) walk on wild side.htm).
This particular safari concentrates on getting out of the vehicle and walking about, so the lens choices are potentially different.
I was wondering whether anyone here has experienced such a safari and has any recommendations? We have been shooting mostly underwater stuff for the last 8 years and really have no idea where to start.
I'm contemplating rental of a 500MM lens but it will cost over a grand for the 4 weeks I'll be gone. A new Canon 5D Matk II may be in the plan as well.
Been looking at urchase of a zoom telephoto but can't seem to make a choice so maybe someone can sway me.
We already own the following gear:
2 Canon 5D bodies
All canon glass:
24-105MM F4 IS (L)
14MM F2.8 (L)
16-35MM F2.8 (L)
135MM F2 (L)
85MM F1.2 (L)
300 F4.0 IS (L)
1.4X extender
100 MM macro
Thanks!
Mark
The 100-400L would seem to fit into your lineup quite nicely, particularly for a safari. I speculate that if you're on foot, much of the wildlife (the dangerous kind, anyway) is going to be some distance away! You seem to have rather more at the wide end than you're likely to need on this trip.
Jeremy
-
I did a week of walking/hiking in Tanzania in 2007. I went with a 1D2, 70-200 f4is, 17-40, 1.4 extender, Monopod and that was about it. put it in a Dryzone 200 pack and it worked well and was light weight. In the areas where we walked, the large animals were long gone before you could see them, however, birds, monkeys, reptiles, some enormous bugs, Masai, we saw a lot of. I wish I had taken a 100 macro, and maybe a 400 f5.6. I agree with the previous post, that 100-400mm might be the ticket! You don't want to be changing lenses a lot. The national parks seem to have many more large animals near you, but I don't think they will let you walk in any of the major national parks. Have a great trip, Rob
-
Good shoes.
Someone slower than you.
Though, I second the macro. Sometimes tiny stuff is just as interesting. Good choice on the 14mm prime. You'll probably use this a LOT.
Oh also consider the newer 2x type II teleconverter. This might give you a little more reach without having to get a massive zoom, especially since you can stack them if required. Sure you lose 2 stops this way, but digital plus the fact that there's often too *much* light outdoors during the day...
-
The 100-400L would seem to fit into your lineup quite nicely, particularly for a safari. I speculate that if you're on foot, much of the wildlife (the dangerous kind, anyway) is going to be some distance away! You seem to have rather more at the wide end than you're likely to need on this trip.
Jeremy
Got lots of wide glass due to my previous Underwater Photo hobby
Appreciate the info on the 100-400 but one of the things I don't like is the push/pull zoom instead of a zoom ring like all the others.
So, I think the wife would like the either the 70-200 2.8L and would probably run 1 1.4x extender on it. Any opinions on this option?
Also, Given that I will probably rent a long lens for the trip and will carry it "hobo style" on the end of a monopod... I'm torn between the 400 2.8L and the 500 4L.
The rental cost difference is negligible but the weight difference is 1500 grams!
I like the faster glass but at the expense of 100MM focal length and almost 3.5 pounds might be excessive...
Opinions??
-
I'm torn between the 400 2.8L and the 500 4L.
Opinions??
Have you considered Canon's 400 f/4 DO? Would be smaller and lighter than your two options above. A friend of mine who has gone on a number of African photography trips uses one to good effect. However, I do seem to remember that early copies had a sharpness issue.
Paul
-
Good shoes.
Someone slower than you.
Paul
-
I think the 70-200 2.8IS is a good option with extender. I own a 500 f4 and use it on trips here in the U.S. I thought about taking it on my past african trip, but decided against it due to the amount of walking/hiking we did. It's a pain to carry long distance, with or without monopod attached and I assume you will also have a backpack? Their was a couple of times I could have used it-a distant Cheetah, or lion, but the big cats seem to stay just out of sight when you're on foot. If you happen to check out Ngorongoro Crater, Tarangire, or one of the parks by vehicle, then a 500 would be a plus(big creatures all around you!) The walking/hiking trips are very good about taking you where you won't get eaten or trampled!
Rob
-
Some comments:
- Have you considered taking with you an APS body (50D for instance)? This will reduce by 1.5 times the need for a super tele zoom. Your 300 f4.0 on the 50D will behave like a 450 f4.0 on the 5D/5DII. You can nearly buy one 50D for the cost of big guns rental. The it is just a question of figuring out whether there is a quality gap between your 5D and the 50D that would impact your results,
- If you walk without a porter, weight is a critical factor, that might make the long teles unrealistic anyway,
- You might want to check whether hand held panoramas could not be a good alternative for your super wide lens. If you intend to focus on remote subjects like the horizon line then this technique should work very well but you will need to devote sufficient time to practising before going (I would say at last 10 hours or so),
- A real tripod might be a big plus for these dawn/dusk images, don't forget also a release cable,
- My experience of these high opportunity/high stress (once in a life time shot) assignements is that the more simple the gear you carry, the more efficient you will be. I would not take too much stuff and concentrate on what you can shoot with what you have instead of thinking about what you could have shot if you had brought something else.
Cheers,
Bernard
-
Some comments:
- Have you considered taking with you an APS body (50D for instance)? This will reduce by 1.5 times the need for a super tele zoom. Your 300 f4.0 on the 50D will behave like a 450 f4.0 on the 5D/5DII. You can nearly buy one 50D for the cost of big guns rental. The it is just a question of figuring out whether there is a quality gap between your 5D and the 50D that would impact your results,
- If you walk without a porter, weight is a critical factor, that might make the long teles unrealistic anyway,
- You might want to check whether hand held panoramas could not be a good alternative for your super wide lens. If you intend to focus on remote subjects like the horizon line then this technique should work very well but you will need to devote sufficient time to practising before going (I would say at last 10 hours or so),
- A real tripod might be a big plus for these dawn/dusk images, don't forget also a release cable,
- My experience of these high opportunity/high stress (once in a life time shot) assignements is that the more simple the gear you carry, the more efficient you will be. I would not take too much stuff and concentrate on what you can shoot with what you have instead of thinking about what you could have shot if you had brought something else.
Cheers,
Bernard
I like the idea of a tripod, but I think this will be too heave given the luggage limitations.
I'm always confused when folks talk about the cropped sensor making the lens "longer". Maybe I don't understand the concept very well, but it seems if you have a 5D and crop post-production you end up with effectively the same number of pixels in your image as you would if you used a 50D. Plus, you lose the capability to take a really stunning 13MP shot with the 50D.
I agree with the comment about simplicity. I think we have decided upon 3 cameras shared between the two of us.
#1 will have a tele-zoom.
#2 will have a prime long lens
Cameras 1 & 2 will never have the lens removed for the duration of the trip (or so we say now)
#3 will have one of several lenses: 85MM, 16-35MM , 14MM or 100MM macro depending upon the day/evening.
On the prime tele I'm leaning toward the 400 2.8L. It is IS and I figure I can put a 1.5x extender on it and still have a good combo if need be. Extenders are cheap and light
On the tele-zoom I think we are leaning towards the 70-200 2.8L. Same thoughts on the extender but we are also thinking the new 5D Mark II with the 21MP sensor might crop well if we stay with the 200MM
We also already own the 400 F4L so who knows... that just might make the trip instead of renting the F2.8L version. Money is not a BIG concern but bucks is bucks
Thoughts?
-
I can't speak with authority to your particular situation, but in the camps I've been to in Africa, someone does your laundry every day. I would find out about those details and then decide to take fewer clothes in favor of a tripod.
-
...decide to take fewer clothes in favor of a tripod.
Funny. I'm fighting with my wife on this already. She seems to think that more than 2 pairs of underwear is necessary.
I feel that 1 to wear and one to wash is good enough. In a pinch, you can simply turn 'em inside-out
I plan to use the clothes to pack the lenses and stuff in.
Trust me, I'm a diver and an UW photographer so I know how to pack light clothing-wise.
I think that my current tripod might be a bit heavy but it was purchased to support the camera and a long lens.
-
I like the idea of a tripod, but I think this will be too heave given the luggage limitations.
A good tripod (Gitzo 3 series for instance) and head (RRS or Arcaswiss for instance) weight around 2.5 kg. How heavy is your bag itself?
I'm always confused when folks talk about the cropped sensor making the lens "longer". Maybe I don't understand the concept very well, but it seems if you have a 5D and crop post-production you end up with effectively the same number of pixels in your image as you would if you used a 50D. Plus, you lose the capability to take a really stunning 13MP shot with the 50D.
This has been written about a lot. What matters in the end is pixel density. A 50D packs 15 megapixels in an area that is 2.5 times smaller than that of a 5D's sensor. It means that the 5D only has about 5 megapixels in the central part of its sensor corresponding to the area of the 50D's sensor.
With a given lens, say your 300 mm f4.0, if you crop the central part of a 5D's frame so as to fous on a distant subject, say a lion trying to eat a giraffe, you will end up with a 5MP image with the 5D and a 15MP image with the 50D, same crop, same lens.
This explain the so-called zoom factor that you enoy with an APS body.
You can of course believe that the pixels of the 5D have a higher quality that those of the 50D, but:
- this is mostly not true due to the fact that the 50D's sensor is 2.5 years newer technology,
- there is no way slightly better 5D pixels could compensate for 5 times more pixels in the 50D (15MP vs 5MP)
So de facto, you can really consider that the actual focal lenght of your 300mm on the 5D becomes a 450mm on the 50D. Ask people shooting birds... most of them use APS bodies.
The day Nikon releases a 15MP D400 I will buy it in a heart beat as a backup for the D3x for those assignements where I need to go longer.
So globally my view remains that, considering your walking scenario, you will probably have a better experience with a 5D, 50D, 300mm f4.0 and a tripod that you would with 2x5D, 400mm f2.8 and monopod.
I am not a safari expert though, but this is what I would do in such circumpstances. Andy Biggs and others should be able to help you more with this.
Cheers,
Bernard
-
A good tripod (Gitzo 3 series for instance) and head (RRS or Arcaswiss for instance) weight around 2.5 kg. How heavy is your bag itself?
...
This explain the so-called zoom factor that you enoy with an APS body.
You can of course believe that the pixels of the 5D have a higher quality that those of the 50D, but:
- this is mostly not true due to the fact that the 50D's sensor is 2.5 years newer technology,
- there is no way slightly better 5D pixels could compensate for 5 times more pixels in the 50D (15MP vs 5MP)
...
Bernard,
Thanks for the education. Actually the 5D Mark II is a 21MP sensor and I would hope it is at least as modern as the 50D but I do understahd yourpoint.
I'm limited to 15Kg baggage total so you can see why even a 2.5Kg tripod is an issue
-
Bernard,
Thanks for the education. Actually the 5D Mark II is a 21MP sensor and I would hope it is at least as modern as the 50D but I do understahd yourpoint.
I'm limited to 15Kg baggage total so you can see why even a 2.5Kg tripod is an issue
All things being equal, you would need a 37.5 megapixel FF sensor to have the same pixel density found in the 50D.
Cheers,
Bernard
-
All things being equal, you would need a 37.5 megapixel FF sensor to have the same pixel density found in the 50D.
Cheers,
Bernard
Well, I had hoped that this would not degrade into a pixel war.
I'm not looking at a 50D and personally I believe (right or wrong) that the size of the pixel matters more than the density to a certain degree.
I do like that the 50D nd the new 5D use the new sensor technology and I really like that the 5D has better dust management than my old one.
So, I've made the decision on camera body for now.
-
I hear you on your decision to stick with the 5DMKII, but I need to second the sentiment that both a cropped sensor and a full frame sensor camera should be in your kit. The extra reach from the APS-C sensor is substantial...it is like adding a teleconverter but without the quality degradation. As a matter of fact, that 300 f/2.8 you have on a cropped sensor 50D with a 1.4x teleconverter is a really fantastic combination for everything from small critters and birds to long range scenics out on the horizon.
I also agree with Bernard on the panoramic technique. For wide angle landscape work, there really isn't an enormous need for very wide lenses. A two, three, or four image panoramic using a normal range lens will far exceed most wide angle lenses. Couple that with the fact that panoramics allow you to avoid so much foreground and sky and you have a great combination.
-
...As a matter of fact, that 300 f/2.8 you have on a cropped sensor 50D with a 1.4x teleconverter is a really fantastic combination for everything from small critters and birds to long range scenics out on the horizon...
You guys do make a really good point. I'm not stupid, just a little stubborn.
When you mention that combo I can really see the advantage! So I end up with an Image Stabilized 588MM F4 lens that weighs not too much and I can shoot 6fps and to top it all off it doesn't weigh a ton!
All this for the cost of about $1200 plus another 1.4x converter
Am I understanding correctly? Seems like a pretty good Safari solution to me
Now someone please play devil's advocate and tell me why I would NOT want to make this selection???
-
You guys do make a really good point. I'm not stupid, just a little stubborn.
When you mention that combo I can really see the advantage! So I end up with an Image Stabilized 588MM F4 lens that weighs not too much and I can shoot 6fps and to top it all off it doesn't weigh a ton!
All this for the cost of about $1200 plus another 1.4x converter
Am I understanding correctly? Seems like a pretty good Safari solution to me
Now someone please play devil's advocate and tell me why I would NOT want to make this selection???
The most relevant counter-argument is that you will suffer in low-light, high-ISO conditions. But if you have both a 50D and 5DMkII in your kit, that will be easy to rectify by using the full frame camera.
For that setup, I would suggest some sort of lightweight tripod or monopod too.
-
The most relevant counter-argument is that you will suffer in low-light, high-ISO conditions. But if you have both a 50D and 5DMkII in your kit, that will be easy to rectify by using the full frame camera.
My intent would be to leave the lens on the 50D for the duration... I'm afraid of the low light.
what are the particular issues?
I guess I could simply drop the extender or as you say, simply move the whole rig to a 5D if I knew I would see such conditions...
-
Just one note....I realized that the 300mm lens you have is the f/4, not the f/2.8. You can still mount the 1.4x teleconverter on it and have the autofocus work at the effective f/5.6. On the other hand, the 300mm f/2.8 lens I mentioned is a bit larger and far higher quality. It is still a pretty decent possibility for you, but I think that lens is somewhere around $3,000.
As for the low-light performance of the 50D versus the 5DMkII, on the 50D you will see a small amount of noise set in at around 400 ISO and it will become a bit distracting in the shadows at somewhere around 1000 or 1600 ISO while the 3200 ISO is pretty poor. On the 5DMKII you won't notice substantial noise until closer to 800 or 1000 and it is only distracting at 3200. These numbers are gross generalizations, but generally speaking the 5DMKII will give you about 2-3 stops better noise performance.
-
If you don't mind losing a couple of more stops, you can buy the 2x converter. and even stack the two together for close to 3x. (would be like f/11 or something though...)
-
Just one note....I realized that the 300mm lens you have is the f/4, not the f/2.8. You can still mount the 1.4x teleconverter on it and have the autofocus work at the effective f/5.6. On the other hand, the 300mm f/2.8 lens I mentioned is a bit larger and far higher quality. It is still a pretty decent possibility for you, but I think that lens is somewhere around $3,000.
Still, I can rent the f/2.8 version for about 500 bucks for the month.
I've also done some reading and it appears that both the 1.4x and 2x extenders work well with this lens.
I think I may be circling in on a solution... maybe I'll see if I can rent this lens for a day locally....
-
Well, my local camera shop has the "old" non-IS version of the F2.8 300MM lens and daily rental is $50
I'm thinking that the purchase of a 50D is gonna happen anyhow because we already own the F4 300MM.
I also already own a 1.4x extender so I guess I'll do a test and decide for myself if I want to schlep around the heavy fast lens or to simply bring my lighter albeit slower 300MM.
Hopefully I can catch some surf action and maybe some stuff at the local bird sanctuary. I think I might take it to dog park to test on fast moving wildlife Or perhaps head down to San Diego at the Wild Animal park for some pseudo-safari testing...
-
BTW, I'd be interested in corresponding with anyone that has been on a safari with Hoopoe.
Thanks!
-
i've used and believed that a crop-frame camera with the 100-400 is the best single camera/lens combination for wildlife- i've used it from vehicles, boats, and some walking (the problem with walking is getting even within the effective 640mm range of many animals). i also use a better beamer and Quantum turbo compact with a 550 or 580 for fill flash and night shooting. my 300 f4 + 1.4x is distinctly inferior to the 100-400 (although this may be the badness of my 300 rather than goodness of my 100-400. even if the 300+1.4x were as good as the 100-400 the flexibility of the 100-400 will get a lot more shots - removing and replacing the converter in the dusty conditions of Africa is a serious issue.
i purchased a 50D at year-end hoping to improve on 40D IQ for a trip to Tanzania this year. in testing, i found no noticeable improvement over the 40D with the 100-400 and returned the 50D (as some reviews have pointed out, the 50D demands very good glass - it did perform better with my 100 macro, but not much else).
since my trip will be vehicle-based, i'm planning to take 40D, 5dII, 50 1.4, 24-100, 100-400, rented 400DO, and 1.4x converter - and probably a monopod. i've tried the 300 2.8 and the IQ with 2x seems to be about the same as the 400DO with 1.4x which i can hand-hold (although with a 40D and 1.4x a monopod or rest is necessary for framing)
-
Good shoes.
Someone slower than you.
A good cannon like the H&H 600 double Nitro Express.
-
How about a multi-socket A/C plug on a short cord? When you get to some guest house / camping shelter, everyone will be gunning for the few available outlets. You will win friends.
Two sets of the travel synthetic undies is all you need for travel (exofficio). Plus those nice (expensive) wool t-shirts from folks like Ibex which never feel dirty. One pair of shorts. One pair of those thin pants, and and if you want to go ugly, those zip-off ones (don't do it!). One sweater. No shoes. No kidding. The Africans do well with sandals, so will you. There, now you don't have to wash any socks. Alright, I'll admit that Africans wear shoes. But bring your sense of adventure... i.e. never refuse an offer to go to someone's house for tea or dinner.
Don't discount the monopod. Recon it is much more useful for wildlife than a tripod. The shorter and lighter the better. How about a $20 Manfrotto 676B? For a 12# lens? It works for me. For landscapes, I'm really impressed with the GT0541 with travel RRS ballhead (1kg total).
For the wildlife, I wouldn't be afraid to go long. 600mm equivalent plus, or maybe that 400f/2.8 +TC for versatility. You could use the 100-400L, it's image quality is the same as the 70-200f/2.8 on FF in my tests, but neither will take the 1.4X well. That Gura Gear backpack will hold it all just fine. It's my guess that any walking safari doesn't have high density of big game. You might be on one of those with a guide w/rifle.
How about buying the big lens or crop body used and sell it used? You should take minimal depreciation hit and spend less than renting ($50 in my case, tho the economy is something to factor). The only real risk here is the situation where you can't part with it afterwards. Insure it all with a personal items policy, not necessarily for Africa, but for travel thru big cities in general.
You can contact someone who went with Hoopoe here: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/thre...sageID=15434894 (http://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/thread.jspa?messageID=15434894)
Enjoy!
-
Thanks for all the advice.
I do indeed intend to bring a multi-plug. I'm also considering a tripp-lite inverter that has 2 plugs for sharing in the vehicle.
Funny you mention about the clothes. I'm joking with my wife that one really only needs 1 pair of underwear. One day right side out, one day inside out, third day commando while in the laundry
I'm definitely bringing a monopod. I can probably manage to prop it up somehow for the early morning sunrise photos.
I don't plan on bring a flash right now but am not sure.
The real issue right now is the 15Kg weight limit. My camera gear weighs almost that much.
-
OK one pair then. One week right side out, one evening commando while it dries. Those spendy travel undies do work pretty well, and if you get all black you'll be set for swimming at Zanzibar.
+ A big rocket blower, considering the 5DI and safari life. The 5DII sensor stays pretty clean.
-
Take an empty bean bag with you and then fill it up with lentils/rice or whatever when you're there. It makes it very easy to use almost anything as a 'tripod'. I'd also take some good insect repellent, serious sunscreen, wide hat that covers your ears and neck and sunglasses.
-
Take an empty bean bag with you and then fill it up with lentils/rice or whatever when you're there. It makes it very easy to use almost anything as a 'tripod'. I'd also take some good insect repellent, serious sunscreen, wide hat that covers your ears and neck and sunglasses.
+1 for the beanbag. And the rest for that matter.
You must be stronger, faster and taller than me. Because as much as I love my cameras there's no way I'm walking kilometers with any of the Canon super teles. Personally, having done a few Safaris I would simplify as much as possible. Less is more when your time is limited. Shooting from a vehicle will be great but I think walking and shooting would be a pain with anything heavier than a 100-400. Carrying 15kg (34lbs) of camera gear is going to get tired really fast and will interfere with your ability to get the shot as well as your enjoyment of the trip. It's all well and good to see guys like Andy Biggs etc. and the gear they carry, but they are there for extended periods of time and often after only one subject per trip. You'll be looking to get the most variety in the shortest time frame. And unless you are on a private safari, you'll also have to move with the group. 5 hours at a single waterhole just isn't going to happen.
For a walking Safari I'd have 2 bodies (1 cropped) or 3 bodies between 2 people, 16-35 (or a Sigma 12-24), 24-105 IS, 50mm 1.8, 70-200 2.8, 100mm macro and a Sigma 50-500. I'd have UV filters on all my lenses, polariser (77mm and 86mm), a carbon monopod with a small ball head, plenty of memory, at least 500GB of backup storage and plenty of cleaning equipment. You may still take a 500 f4 for vehicle days.
just my 0.02
Gordon
-
i mostly agree with flash except for the Sigma 50-500. the Sigma long zooms have pretty sad IQ and are unreliable in addition (see interesting lens reliability info on lensrentals.com site). Unfortunately there isn't a better long zoom than the Canon 100-400.
i recommend the RRS MH-01 for a monopod - works well even with quite large lenses and far superior to a ball head on a monopod
-
i mostly agree with flash except for the Sigma 50-500. the Sigma long zooms have pretty sad IQ and are unreliable in addition (see interesting lens reliability info on lensrentals.com site). Unfortunately there isn't a better long zoom than the Canon 100-400.
i recommend the RRS MH-01 for a monopod - works well even with quite large lenses and far superior to a ball head on a monopod
Is your judgement of the Sigma lenses based on personal experience, factual information or your opinion? My 50-500 has been to 15 countries, is at least as sharp as the 100-400L I sold to get it and has been perfectly reliable in that time. Personally I found the 100-400 quite dissapointing for an "L" lens. The reviews I have read of the "Bigma" and my own experience over the last 2 years with it would dissagree with your opinion. I also believe a review is coming from Michael, eventually. Though I'm sure he already has an opinion on the one he has for his Sony system.
Gordon
-
You must be stronger, faster and taller than me. Because as much as I love my cameras there's no way I'm walking kilometers with any of the Canon super teles.
Gordon,
Probably not taller, but perhaps stronger and faster;) I'm pretty fit so the thought of carrying gear doesn't bother me too much. I was able to go Grand Canyon rim to the River and back in 5.5 hours.
I am giving serious thought to this though.... but given the fact that I'm unlikely to do this trip again so I will probably simply suck it up !!
-
Gordon,
Probably not taller, but perhaps stronger and faster;) I'm pretty fit so the thought of carrying gear doesn't bother me too much. I was able to go Grand Canyon rim to the River and back in 5.5 hours.
I am giving serious thought to this though.... but given the fact that I'm unlikely to do this trip again so I will probably simply suck it up !!
Is that good :-) . I wouldn't know. I live a loooooooong way from the Grand Canyon (other side of the world). Enjoy your trip. I'd love to be in Africa again.
Gordon
p.s. Whatever you do in Tanzania, make sure you get to the Ngorngorro Crater. One of my favourite places in the world.
-
Is that good :-) . I wouldn't know. I live a loooooooong way from the Grand Canyon (other side of the world). Enjoy your trip. I'd love to be in Africa again.
Gordon
p.s. Whatever you do in Tanzania, make sure you get to the Ngorngorro Crater. One of my favourite places in the world.
The Bright Angel Trail at Grand Canyon begins near the main visitor complex, at the start of the Hermit's Rest road, and follows the course of Garden Creek, reaching the Colorado after 9.5 miles and a descent of over 4,500 feet. starting at 6860 feet and ending at 2400 feet it is basically a "reverse mountain climb" ...
Here is what I got from the Hoopoe folks on the trip:
The hikes on the Walk on the Wildside itinerary vary with the hikes at West
Kilimanjaro extending to 13 kms which can be done in half or full day. The
terrain is mainly down hill through cattle grass lands and acacia woodlands.
Some parts tend to be rocky through cattle trails. On the crater rim walk
this is from point to pain and the first day stretches 15 - 16 kms on a full
day's hike and the next day on a 3 hour stretch. The terrain is relatively
flat which takes you through Maasai trails. On the hikes you will mostly
meet small game but in the Ngorongoro crater rim walk buffalo can be spotted
and that is why you will be accompanied by an armed ranger. The most part of
the itinerary will be in a vehicle during the game drives at West
Kilimanjaro, Tarangire, Lake Manyara, and Ngorongoro Crater & Serengeti
National Park. Charging batteries is available at West Kilimanjaro with
power supplied from a generator, Kikoti - solar power, Kirurumu - current
electricity, Ngorongoro Sopa and Serengeti Camp - generator.
Water will be supplied during the hikes and game drives and the supply track
will carry this at West Kilimanjaro and donkey in the Ngorongoro highlands.
-
that makes a lot more sense, i've been scratching my head imagining how much walking is practical and what you'd see on those walks
my recommendation is to take gear normally recommended for a vehicle safari and treat the walks as a pleasant bonus to absorb the atmosphere of Africa and maybe shoot some landscapes and macro while you're about it (for safety, and i believe park requirements you're going to be doing these walks in the middle of the day so the comment about seeing small game is probably optimistic). they're not going to let you take the time to shoot serious macro, so i'd recommend a 500D rather than packing a macro lens. if you're a serious wide-angle shooter then take the wide angle - i'm not, so planning to shoot panoramas
a monopod is a good idea for vehicles as is a bean bag (sometimes vehicles will have been bags)
no, i don't have personal experience with the Sigma, and until i see some objective evidence of satisfactory IQ it will stay that way. i'll also admit that there has been quality variation with the Canon 100-400 (as with a lot of other lenses)
-
I found the 100-400 not so good on the long end and that was after it going to canon. since you have 2 bodies I would use the 70-200 f 4 lis and your 300 f4 on a 50 d that would get you through most shooting. Also the 400 5.6 is a great lens. David PS. the new 16-35 is miles aheaed of the original. David
-
Dangit! You guys all mentioning long lenses have got me waffling between the Canon SuperTele 300 and 500.
If longer is better then why not? The rental cost isn't that much more incrementally.
Were it not for the size of the 500mm as a travel consideration that'd be what I choose but it even makes the 300mm F2.8 seem light!!
I think i did decide on a 50D as my second body though. As soon as I saw that the new 5D Mark II takes different batteries it made that decision easier.
-
Well, I finally made my decision.
After much hand wringing and discussing with many folks I decided on the following:
Canon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS
Canon 300mm f/2.8L IS (possibly w/ the 1.4X)
Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS
Canon Speedlite 580EX II
Canon Drop-in Polarizer for the 300mm
Better Beamer
Now I haven't made the decision on what camera to add. I've got 2 5Ds (one for the wife w/ 100-400)
and one for the 70-200.
For the 300mm I can't decide whether to spring for the new 5D II or save a chunk of change and get the 50D...
also now debating in whether to pack the 16-35 or the 85 as my extra lens....
Oh, and it looks like we may be the only ones booked on this safari
-
buy a 5d2!
i've been pixel peeping my new 5d2 and the results with my 100-400 (which appears to be a pretty good copy) are significantly better than my 5d. i'd recommend using the 5d with the 100-400 and the 300 and 2x extender with the 5D2 (with the opportunity to switch)-- the 300 2.8 seems to be one of the few lenses happy with the 2x. with the 100-400 my 5dii is a bit sharper cropped than the 40d (i also tested a 50d and found it no better than the 40d even with micro focus adjustment)
i'm still planning to take the 100-400, rented 400DO, 1.4x, 24-105, and 50 1.4. definitely the 5dii, and will decide between the 40d and 5d shortly before leaving when the 400DO arrives.
if you have a good 100-400, i wouldn't bother with the 70-200. a 24-105 is a much better compliment to the 100-400.
i also don't think the 16-35 will be very useful unless you are a hardcore wideangle guy. i'm taking the 50 1.4 because it's small and light with super resolution (at f2+) - great for low light and panoramas
i don't think a polarizer for the 300 will be particularly useful as you'll be using this lens mostly when light is a premium. i will take a polarizer for the 24-105 and probably a 77mm 500D which will fit the 24-105 and 100-400 if a macro opportunity arrises (don't expect much use of this)
-
if you have a good 100-400, i wouldn't bother with the 70-200. a 24-105 is a much better compliment to the 100-400.
i also don't think the 16-35 will be very useful unless you are a hardcore wideangle guy. i'm taking the 50 1.4 because it's small and light with super resolution (at f2+) - great for low light and panoramas
i don't think a polarizer for the 300 will be particularly useful as you'll be using this lens mostly when light is a premium. i will take a polarizer for the 24-105 and probably a 77mm 500D which will fit the 24-105 and 100-400 if a macro opportunity arrises (don't expect much use of this)
I selected the 70-200 as a complement to the 300 since the wife will be unwilling to give up the 100-400 I'll bet
The polarizer is just in case I decide to succumb to the desire to shoot stuff mid-day.
I do love the WA stuff but as you noted the lens will be of limited use.
We do own a 24-105 and may take that as the extra lens but I love the 85 f1.2 for so many reasons...
-
Well, all the gear showed today.
I'm packing for a Wednesday departure.
Got a question about AF modes and such... I'm a UW photo guy and clearly understand which to use there with my 5D and wide lenses... but the 50D with the F1.8 300MM has me stumped!!
Any guidance on mods form the default for this camera/lens combo given that I'll be in Africa shooting form a vehicle???
-
i assume it's the 300 2.8, but that really isn't important. i set the focus for center point so i know it's focusing on the subject and AI Servo to follow movement. i normally use Av to control depth of field, but in low light there's an argument for Tv and setting the shutter to stop action, normally about 1/250. with the 50D i'd try to keep ISO at 400 or 800 if possible (although 1600 is usally pretty good with the 5D and no problem with 5D2). I use continuous drive (except at night with flash) and take bursts of 3-5 images both in low light at minimal shutter speeds and to capture action (where you may want high speed)
i just talked to my travel agent today who recommended a short, lightweight tripod that can be set on the roof of the vehicle (i've been playing with 5D2 video which clearly requires greater stability than shooting stills). he also said that i could expect the vehicle to have a couple beenbags (and if it doesn't i'll fill a sock or ziplock with sand or something)
-
Well, all the gear showed today.
I'm packing for a Wednesday departure.
Got a question about AF modes and such... I'm a UW photo guy and clearly understand which to use there with my 5D and wide lenses... but the 50D with the F1.8 300MM has me stumped!!
Any guidance on mods form the default for this camera/lens combo given that I'll be in Africa shooting form a vehicle???
For bird and wildlife work on a 50D I recommend using your AF-On button in AI Servo mode while programming the shutter release NOT to focus. On the 50D, the AF-On button lands nicely under your thumb and allows you to deal with moving foreground objects that temporarily obscure your view (trees, cars, people, obstacles) without having the lens searching back and forth for focus, during which time you frequently miss the shot. This also allows you to separate the frame that you use to meter and the frame you choose to focus.
The other thing I do with the 50d is to set the joystick as my method for selecting focus points. 75% of the time, I leave at the center point, because wildlife isn't predictable, but when I have a chance to think before I execute a shot, I will use the joystick selector to pick a focus point that will allow me to have...say for example...a bird flying towards the center of the frame from a side, instead of centered in a boring fashion.
I can't remember all the custom function settings that allowed me to get this to work in this way, but I am sure you can figure it out. Most importantly, you want to decouple the shutter release from focus. That alone, will set you, or your wife, free.
For best results (as far as sharpness goes) I shoot my 100-400 using shutter priority mode with auto ISO on. Then I shoot at at least 1000th of a second. If you have some good stationary support, you may be able to get down to 500th, but for real tack-sharp focus, stay over a 1000th---and yes, that includes having IS on. Also, make sure to use the Auto Focus Micro-adjust feature. It works well, and I have increased my keeper rate by using it. Making a quick focus calibration adjustment isn't too hard with the AAA battery trick.
-
For bird and wildlife work on a 50D I recommend using your AF-On button in AI Servo mode while programming the shutter release NOT to focus. On the 50D, the AF-On button lands nicely under your thumb and allows you to deal with moving foreground objects that temporarily obscure your view (trees, cars, people, obstacles) without having the lens searching back and forth for focus, during which time you frequently miss the shot. This also allows you to separate the frame that you use to meter and the frame you choose to focus.
I'm familiar with that mode. We use that in UW a lot.
...
For best results (as far as sharpness goes) I shoot my 100-400 using shutter priority mode with auto ISO on. Then I shoot at at least 1000th of a second. If you have some good stationary support, you may be able to get down to 500th, but for real tack-sharp focus, stay over a 1000th---and yes, that includes having IS on. Also, make sure to use the Auto Focus Micro-adjust feature. It works well, and I have increased my keeper rate by using it. Making a quick focus calibration adjustment isn't too hard with the AAA battery trick.
This is interesting.
I guess as long a the camera doesn't select ISO 3200 all is well
-
using 1/1000 with the 100-400 at 5.6 is a nice ideal, but there's not enough light to do this in the early morning and late afternoo where most of the action is. on the other hand, if you allow overide, the camera will reduce shutter speed as required and you need to shoot at least 3 images in a burst. if the 50D allows IS0 3200 in auto ISO, then you're probably better off setting 1600 and switching to auto when there's more light. wouldn't worry about ISO 3200 with the 5D2 though
-
using 1/1000 with the 100-400 at 5.6 is a nice ideal, but there's not enough light to do this in the early morning and late afternoo where most of the action is. on the other hand, if you allow overide, the camera will reduce shutter speed as required and you need to shoot at least 3 images in a burst. if the 50D allows IS0 3200 in auto ISO, then you're probably better off setting 1600 and switching to auto when there's more light. wouldn't worry about ISO 3200 with the 5D2 though
If I recall correctly, it only goes to 1600 in Auto ISO mode. 3200 is an expanded ISO setting. My 1000th second guideline is generally for birds that are frequently moving or in flight. For stationary or slower moving critters, I imagine 500th would probably be okay. I would still recommend shutter priority. You are likely to be switching back and forth between 500th-1200th second settings. Otherwise, for wildlife you generally want as high an aperture as possible at the lowest ISO possible. I find the 100-400 is best at f/11 or f/8, though I rarely get up that high and still get fine results.
-
Mark, if you're back could you spare the time for a quick comment on what did and didn't work.
I'm leaving Tue
-
Mark, if you're back could you spare the time for a quick comment on what did and didn't work.
I'm leaving Tue
I shot the big F2.8 300mm with a 1.4x on a 50D and was very happy. Shutter speeds were fast enough to hand hold most of the time.
I found myself shooting Aperture priority mode and set this to F4.
The wife loved her 100-400 zoom.
There were a few cases where she didn't have enough light, and some cases where the critters were too close for my lens but I also had the 70-200 on another 5D as a backup.
Also packed the 24-105 and that also had its uses. Didn't shoot as much video as I had planned because the migration had mostly moved north by the time we got to Serengeti.
I carried the 300mm for a 30Km walk one day. It sure got heavy after a while
Here is what I would change were I to do it again:
a) The 300 x 1.4x x 50D was great but only necessary 30% of the time.
The 100-400 on the 5D was the sweet spot and I'd also add the 24-105 for some of the WA and closer up stuff.
c) Charging was not so much an issue. I brought too many batteries and multiple chargers because I thought I'd not see power most places. (even brought an inverter for the car)
d) Flashes were not useful. Took 2 plus better beamers and found that I didn't use them much.
e) Most places had connections for US plugs. Only used my adapter at one Lodge. The lodges have loaners too.
f) I bought a Colorspace UDMA drive form Hyperdrive (http://www.hyperdrive.com) and it is the sweetest unit for downloading and backing up the cards. It turned out that the fastest way to download was to load the Colorspace drive and then set it into USB mode to transfer to the Computer. I didn't use my FW800 card reader after I figured this out.
g) 8Gb cards were fine. Shot about 5000 total frames between the two of us and we threw away about 100-1200 before we landed in LA.
-
thanks, looks like i'm ready then
-
Haven't had much time to edit/cull the photos, but here is an uncropped/unretouched sot fo a pair of lions shot using the 50D, 1.4x and 300MM combo:
[attachment=14979:lions.jpg]
Also one of the bird shots I was able to get....
[attachment=14980:roller.jpg]
-
I am waiting my vacation next your to Africa, and then i will see what i need, only one lens i am thinking about, either 500 or 600, money is not issue, weight is not an issue as i will use always tripod and not thinking for handhold, even that 500 which is lighter than 400 and 600 i will not handhold it more than 1 minute or longer even i can.
-
I am waiting my vacation next your to Africa, and then i will see what i need, only one lens i am thinking about, either 500 or 600, money is not issue, weight is not an issue as i will use always tripod and not thinking for handhold, even that 500 which is lighter than 400 and 600 i will not handhold it more than 1 minute or longer even i can.
I found that there was little room in the vehicle for such a large setup.
The tripod would be a challenge (albeit really nice) and swinging such a large lens will be tough depending upon what type of top the truck has.
I assume you will be going in a truck by yourself as to avoid a mutiny when you setup each time.
There is no opportunity to leave the vehicle while in the Tanzanian parks nd the small intra-aftica flights have both weight and space restrictions.
But, if you can get past that, and don't mind shooting larger animals that are too big for your frame you can get a lot of nice shots. The bird life was wonderful!
-
Got back from Tanzania and Rwanda almost a month ago to an over-full plate at home.
Fantastic trip - from Arusha, went to Tarangire, Ngorongoro, central Serengetti, and northeastern Serengeti near the Kenya border - between the 4 camps, great variety of scenery and wildlife.
We had an enclosed land cruiser with pop-top for the entire trip except northern Serengeti where we had an open vehicle with a top. The pop-top had 6 seats in back and limited storage. We put one non-photographer in front and had 3 photographers and one non in the back. I'd say 3 photographers in one of these "6-passenger" vehcles would be the practical limit. There really isn't room to set up a tripod with a long lens - best to hand-hold or rest it on the roof (beanbags would have been nice) - i did set up the tripod for video. The open vehicle was worse to shoot from - no possibility of using a tripod and the top was supported by posts that were always in the way - fortunately we were in an area where i could get out and set up the tripod to video wildebeasts.
What worked -
- Think Tank airport acceleration held 5D2, 40D, 50 f1.4, 24-105, 100-400, 400DO, 1.4X, Flash, etc. and weighed about 25# -- completely impractical to add a computer to the loaded bag. Tripod, head, and some miscellaneous stuff got checked with clothes in a medium sized duffle. Computer went in wife's carryon. No issues with overweight (wife and i together were at least 15# over the 66# allowed together on the flight from northern Serengeti to Arusha) - according to the camp manager, the pilots have scales but don't take the time to weigh luggage. If you check in at an airport with a gate agent and scales you may be charged overweight, but he's not had a problem in many years carrying eqivalent gear. Airport Acceleration was also pretty good bag to work out of in vehicle
- 5D2 and 100-400 good combination for the variety of wildlife and "landscape with wildlife" shots from a vehicle, particularly when the vehicle has to stay on the road as was the case everywhere but the northern Serengeti. We'd all like something better than the 100-400 but a good copy gives better results than i was led to expect on the 5D2 and it's nice to have some extra pixels to crop.
- 24-105 worked fine for people, broad landscapes, etc.
- adding the flash with better beamer for fill flash really improves results - ideally would have both cameras set up with flash, but it's a nuisance to secure the second camera and flash when it's not being used
- after trying a couple different flash brackets, i've settled on the Wimberly M-9 and M-3 attached to the RRS angle bracket. this is a lightweight combination that keeps everything attached to the camera so you can change lenses without getting tangled up in cords. Putting the flash and beamer on the hot shoe is pretty sure to damage the camera when bouncing around on dirt roads
- Feisol CT-3441S with short column - this is about as light and compact as anything useful (with care) for a long lens (but i wouldn't use it with anything heavier than the 400DO or maybe the 300 f2.8). the short column is necessary to set up on the roof of a vehicle and you wouldn't want a long column with a long lens on this tipod anyhow. Mostly i used the tripod for video with the 5D2, starting and stopping the camera with a R1 and not touching it during shooting.
- 4th Generation Design Mongoose M2.3 gimbal head. about the same weight as a good ball head but way better with long lenses (any lens?) and a great pano head. only bitch is that the bubble level should be standard. would have been really nice to have a leveling base as it was pretty nearly impossible to level the tripod in the vehicle so video pans didn't work. i'm finding very few uses for ballheads
- Kingston and Transcend 32 and 16GB cards - no problems
- 40D and 5D2 dust removal - manually cleaned the 40D once, later found a few 5D2 images with spots which were cleaned when the camera was power cycled. Should have done a periodic cleaning during each day. This was a vast improvement over my experience with the 20D and 5D in similar dusty conditions
- Hyperdrive Colorspace - my expensive backup in case something happened to the computer - fortunately it only had to function as a usb drive that cost 1/4 as much. The Colorspace works fine backing up to other usb drives, but the instructions that come with it and the extra-cost usb connector are seriously deficient
- cheap 6 ft extension cord - have found many rooms with outlets in the strangest locations
?
-400DO this close to the equator, the window of time you need f4 is minimal. performance with the 1.4x and 40D was unacceptable (may be 1.4x focus issue) and didn't use it. used DO for birds and a few distant subjects with the 40D. if you don't need f4, i don't think it's enough better than a good 100-400 to be worth the cost and trouble. However, something with an equivalent focal length of 600mm or greater is really necessary for birds, small animals, distant subjects.
- Amod geotagger - seems like a great idea, but i've never learned anything particuarly interesting when i Google the location after the fact
Didn't work/not needed
- monopod completely useless
- polarizer - at the equator, not much time when the sun's angle works even when there's enough light
- 500D close up - not dung beatle season, found no macro opportunities
What was missing
- bean bag
- central Serengeti filming pass - costs $1000/ day and lets you go off road and shoot at night. Need to apply for the pass 2 weeks in advance.
- 70-200 f4 - a better lens for "landscape with wildlife" than the 100-400 would have been nice, but also would have required a 3rd body as time and dust is very much against switching lenses
- bay battery for computer. the large file sizes from the 5D2 for still and video meant that everything needed to be backed up on external drives - this didn't work well without more battery in computer at camps without power in the rooms/tents (charging was available at all camps)
- soft 2 inch paint brush to dust of equipment