Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Medium Format / Film / Digital Backs – and Large Sensor Photography => Topic started by: Frank Doorhof on August 17, 2007, 05:25:06 pm
-
I have recently switched my back for one with a newer firmware.
The old one I used on ISO200 and ISO400 several times with good results.
Today I used the new back (new firmware) for the first time on ISO125 and higher, the strange thing is I get a very strange effect in the picture.
It's best described as random strings of purple, it looks like VERY VERY large dust area's but longer streched and with a slightly purple color.
Also with the NEW back I have a slight green shift in the bottom in portrait setting.
The old back was almost perfect with coloruniformity.
I heard from one other user about the purple anomalities so I wonder if there are more.
I have an appointment with Mamiya next week to see if they can solve this for me, but the more people I bring in the better case I have, instead of just changing the back for one that maybe will have the same problem.
-
Frank,
I have not come across same on my new ZD camera with later serial number FD. Nor have I read of it in forums or other writings during all my research of the ZD camera. They must be able to fix.
Regards
Anders
-
Frank
I am about to send my ZD camera in for a firmware upgrade to Japan. What firmware upgrade is it that is causing the problem. Even with the problem the iso 400 is outstanding compared to my ZD camera. My ZD is from March 2006 one of the first cameras released. Keep up the good work.
Denis
-
I haven't seen any of the purple/green blobs as described with my ZD camera.
I did notice some uneven colours in some shots, so I did some test shooting of white foamboard outside in open shade to figure out what was happening. I found a consistent red/cyan unevenness across the frame as per the attached jpeg. I tried several different lenses and apertures and all showed the same thing. Also took some shots with my Canon 5D at the same time, just to be sure..... They were perfectly even across the frame.
With the centre of the frame set to neutral, Lightroom reports about 1% higher red on the extreme LH side of the frame, a bit less than that on the RHS.
I'd bought my camera from a well known internet dealer with a sterling reputation, so I advised them of my results. They advised that they had seen a similar thing in all the other ZD cameras they had tested and also in their Hassy H3D 39. They said that they felt this was a characteristic, not a fault, but that they would be happy to investigate further if I sent the camera back to them. They also claimed that Mamiya Digital Photo Studio's lens correction function rectified it. I couldn't see that it made any difference, but I didn't look too hard as I've got no intention of using that particular software in my normal workflow.
The problem is readily fixed with a masked adjustment layer in Photoshop, so at this stage I've left it at that.
Anyone else seen something similar? My camera is an FD serial (I understand FE is the latest) using Camera Firmware 1.00 and Firmware 1.03.
[attachment=3033:attachment]
Regards
Frank
-
Eeeek, that purple blobing looks harsh. First the M8 issues that cause me to return it now the ZD back is having problems before I pull the trigger.
I saw that ZD back in Nashville too. Have you asked the pro shop what they thought about it? Some of the fellas in that shop seem rather unmotivated to sell me a piece of high dollar kit and that always annoys me.
I'll keep following this thread. Thanks for sharing with us and good luck!
-
The coloruniformaty is rather normal indeed, when you measure a tv set you will see the same, and that is not the problem, I have included the file I have send to Mamiya here.
Attachment didn't work
http://www.doorhof.nl/vb/purple.zip (http://www.doorhof.nl/vb/purple.zip) don't mind the picture it's not a good one but on this one it was most easily seen.
-
@Anders,
You have the same problem, sorry.
Check your ISO400 shots from the factory on the lower part you can clearly see the purple discollerarisation, look for example at the plateau in the metal standing plate and to the right of that, it's less obvious in those shots but it can be seen.
-
@Anders,
You have the same problem, sorry.
Check your ISO400 shots from the factory on the lower part you can clearly see the purple discollerarisation, look for example at the plateau in the metal standing plate and to the right of that, it's less obvious in those shots but it can be seen.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=133972\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Frank,
Yikes! Thanks (+ unfortunate thanks... ). Hm... is this serious problem or are we pixel peeping too much? I mean... I sure will check my photo when evening because during day too much light for my display. For most, are we speaking serious problem or simply like implied above perhaps the nature of the sensor (hence UK dealer H3D)?
Regards
Anders
-
Well follow my link on www.doorhof.nl/vb/purple.zip
I have half my session like this, and for me that means throwing them away.
I can't photoshop this.
A small coloruniformaty problem is a non issue, just select the part and colorbalance, my 20D had the same problem and in 99% of the shots it's not seen, except on gray graduates it's annoying.
But this is MUCH worse.
And in my old back I had clean shots.
-
Frank, Sorry to hear about your current problem. I enjoy your contributions on these forums very much. I also like your work. It would be nice to see you come on over to the dark side and see what you can do with 16 bits.
David
-
At the moment I'm looking at what leaf has for options.
However I would have to pay 6000-7000 euros more and at the moment that budget is not available how much I would love to.
Mamiya just has to solve this, this is a ridicilous problem.
-
The coloruniformaty is rather normal indeed, when you measure a tv set you will see the same, and that is not the problem, I have included the file I have send to Mamiya here.
Attachment didn't work
http://www.doorhof.nl/vb/purple.zip (http://www.doorhof.nl/vb/purple.zip) don't mind the picture it's not a good one but on this one it was most easily seen.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=133971\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Frank and others:
I just purchased by ZD back from K&M Camera in NYC. Good guys there.
In the retail box, I found a "Read Me First" card. It states, "The first time you use your Mamiya ZD Digital Back, first put the ZD Back on the camera, hen place the battery into the battery compartment of the ZD Back. If not done in this order, you may have the following experience:
In some cases, the first few images may have a green cast visible on the screen. If so, simply do this:
1. Turn off the camera
2. Open and close the battery cover, but do not remove the battery
3. Turn on the camera
4. Begin your picture taking
You should see images with the proper colors."
When I took my first test shots on the back, I noticed a green/purple cast on the right side of the shots. But, after taking the back off, taking the battery out and then putting it back in, I don't see this particular cast.
This begs a few questions:
1) Are these "Read Me First" cards new or have they always been included in the retail packaging?
2) Does this "trick" remove the color cast issues that some of us are seeing or is this a different issue?
3) If there are color issues (casts, blobs, etc), is Mamiya working on a solution or not?
I can't imagine that they'll leave us in the dark forever. I just made sure to submit my warranty card and if there are issues, I trust they'll take care of them.
Here's hoping. I still love the back, however.
-Josh
-
Trust me that's not my problem
I have using the back for over 2 months now.
My first back did not have these problems.
I'm not posting this after my first shots.
I have the new back for 3 weeks now and noticed it yesterday.
During a session the system has been powered down several time.
The purple worms are not something that is solved by removing a battery, in that case I should not have it every session, during the session the battery compartment has to be openend several times because I'm experiencing at the moment big problems with shooting tethered.
It seems like the system is falling apart under my fingers the last few days.
I could not properly test tethered shooting because my cable was not in, it has been in for a week now and have been trying to get the system working ever since.
It does work.....
But it can hang during a session on the first or 40th shot.
The camera will NOT shut down, untill the last picture is send to the PC than it will shut down and I can restart and use it again.
It's not the buffer because it happens during the first or second exposure in a series or the 10th or 8th (totally random).
I have tried everything :
Restarting the back
Restarting the whole system (which seems to work)
A firewire booster straight under the cam with a 15cm cable
A highend 4-5-6-9,9mtr cable
Everything without solving the problem.
Mamiya is working on it I'm told, but now the purple worms and I see that now with other ZD's also, so I'm beginning to get a bit worried.
Again my old back was not showing them
-
I'm demoing a ZD back courtesy of Steve Hendrix and PPR and so far the only thing I've seen that is close to the weird purple blobs was when opening up a shadow area in PS ACR on a dark colored piece of furnture. I opened the shadows up at least 2 stops and there was a purple-ish noisy blob. When normally proccessing the file in the Mamiya software I get zero blobs and little to no shadow noise.
The files I've correctly exposed at ISO 100 don't contain any out-of-the-ordinary noise when processed with ACR. The firmware version on the back I have is 0.01.
I'm impressed so far with the ZD back. The buffer doesn't seem to be an issue as I don't hammer on the shutter and normally I shoot on lights so I'm waiting for the pack to recycle.
The LCD on the other hand is nearly useless. If not for the histogram it wouldn't even be worth using. The Canon S850 point and shoot my buddy just bought for $300 has a better LCD! Not sure what Mamiya was thinking.
Frank: what difference did the firmware upgrade make besides purple worms? Is there even a reason to upgrade the firmware?
-
Hi
Has anyone tried Raw Developer with these files ( problem ones )?
-
Has anyone tried Raw Developer with these files ( problem ones )?
I ran the file that I was getting the blob through RD and saw similar results when opening the shadows up. If I process the file normally and add the appropriate amount of contrast, sharpening and noise reduction the file looks gorgeous.
Same goes for non-problematic files as well. I forgot just how nice RD is.
-
Can you please expose at ISO200 ?
When I shoot at ISO50 the files are clean.
When I shoot at ISO100 it's hardly seen.
On ISO200 there are almost in every shot (depending on how obvious you can see them of course, on a nature shot they are hardly seen.
The first back I got crashed on me about every 20-30 frames, the shutter would not fire and the error no dB was shown very much.
This was however something I knew about and did not mention in my review because it was already told by me it would be solved when I got a final release back.
Also firewire was not connected on that back, again something I knew.
The new back has not crashed on me when shooting on the card, to be honest when shooting on the card everything is wonderful on ISO50/100 I absolutly LOVE the quality of the pictures, nothing wrong there
However I had to trash 50% of my location session I shot on ISO200 and that's unexceptable of course.
I will for 95% shoot on ISO50 but I do NEED ISO200 for some location and difficult light work.
-
Can you please expose at ISO200 ?
Shooting at ISO 200 I am seeing some funky purple noise. I just exposed a frame and I'm seeing some purple banding in the shadows and a strange purple bubble-like spot of noise.
I don't expect to shoot this back at anything other than ISO 50 and 100 so the noise doesn't concern me that much. I saw some noise with my Valeo 22 Wi at ISO 100 and 200 was totally unusable. Applying Noise Ninja eliminated the majority of the noise in the shadows but it will not clean up the banding or the wierd bubble.
Something that I'm very concerned about is the purple line down the far right side of the frame.
I'm going to do some serious testing today. I'm still sold on the back but the weird purple noise does have me a bit freaked out.
[attachment=3050:attachment]
-
Pinkish-purple fringe on right I noted.
-
Pinkish-purple fringe on right I noted.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=134135\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Bob,
This is exactly the same banding that I saw with my first few test shots upon receiving my zd back. As I stated in a previous post, I "reset" the back by taking out the battery, removing the back from my afd, and then reattaching and the banding seems to be gone. While, I agree with Frank that this is not the same issue all together nor is this "temp solution" probably addressing the issue entirely, I wonder if there's something about "residual' noise build up when the back is used over time. Has anyone heard of this?
I even noticed this purple fringe on the back's screen which, given the poor quality of the screen, is all the more worrisome if we can even see it there.
I'll do a bunch of test shots today too to see if there are any patterns to this behavior. Lastly, I wonder if there are connections/patterns between the equipment and lenses we are using. Do we see the color anomalies using certain lenses, or the afd rather than the afdII?
I'll test today with multiple lenses. I'm shooting on an afd.
-Josh
-
Do we see the color anomalies using certain lenses, or the afd rather than the afdII?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=134145\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I'm shooting with an AFD and AFDII with an 80, 200 and the new 75-150 and I'm seeing the same results across the board. I just shot a series of tests outdoors in shade and the results look just as good as my old Valeo 22 with the ISO 200 shots looking amazing. In open light outdoors I'm not seeing any funky noise in the shadows even at 200.
I have a feeling the ZD has to be carefully exposed indoors in crappy light. My Leaf back wasn't any different. I was already reaching for my Canons anytime I had to shoot natural light indoors and with the ZD it won't be any different.
-
When you don't use exposure compensation like I did with my example shot it should NOT show up.
I'm by the way not talking about noise, I don't care about that to be honest.
But the worms are terrible and are unshoppable.
-
Frank - I agree. It looks like you've got a bad back.
-
Pinkish-purple fringe on right I noted.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=134135\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I was getting that same kind of problem from my Kodak 35mm dslrn camera. Just a bad bunch of sensors I guess.
db
-
First the purple worms and now someone reports a "centerfold'ish" issue in another thread. The shop here in Nashville does not inspire confidence in me that they would help me resolve an issue should I find one. I really want to take the plunge so Frank thanks again for keeping us posted. I will continue to follow this thread until this proves to be an isolated issue or until mamiya addresses the warts.
-
First the purple worms and now someone reports a "centerfold'ish" issue in another thread. The shop here in Nashville does not inspire confidence in me that they would help me resolve an issue should I find one.
Two things:
1 - I have a demo ZD unit that doesn't have the problems Frank or the other poster has reported. I think Frank just was unlucky to get a bad back.
2 - Why is it the shop's responsibility to resolve the issue? You buy the back and should have a reasonable amount of time to return the unit if it's defective. Beyond 14 days or so it would be Mamiya's responsibility to fix or swap the back. If you're interested in buying a ZD back with a reasonable amount of support you ought to contact Steve Hendrix at PPR in Atlanta.
The ZD backs are just now finding their way into the hand of photographers. Only time will tell if they're a good bang for the buck. I plan on buying a unit tomorrow. Nothing I've seen so far is any different from what I've seen from other medium format backs and dslr's when the first batch of equipment is tested.
-
I agree that its not the shop's responsibility to help me forever but these guys just don't inspire me to do business with them. I will probably call up PPR and get their input on the situation and going to Georgia would save me a bit of sales tax.
Your also right about this being no different than any other new release. I went through the whole Leica M8 thing and found it terribly irritating. I expect the mamiya back to be perfect but I do expect it to be usable. I suppose I will have to sit on the sidelines for a few more weeks and make sure everything is OK.
I do appreciate everyone's input and I am very excited about this product. I think it offers several things that I wouldn't get in the CFV. Those qualities being sensor size, more resolution and a bit lower price.
-
@Anders,
You have the same problem, sorry.
Check your ISO400 shots from the factory on the lower part you can clearly see the purple discollerarisation, look for example at the plateau in the metal standing plate and to the right of that, it's less obvious in those shots but it can be seen.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=133972\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I have now gone through all me near 300 images from my ZD camera at 100% magnification. On the factory scene that Frank mentions it appears to be noise spread over the photo. I do not see that this can be same as the purple worms even looking at full size processed image. Remember that it was 400 ASA +1.5 stops in Silkypix. Processing in CS3 and running Noise Ninjia the purple noise disappears, but... photo is cleaner with SilkyPix noise reduction.
There were three other photos that I suspected for the purple worm syndrome. For two of those it was simply blurred objects, per verification with other frames.
The fourth one does not seem like the purple worm syndrome, but I attach a 100% crop from it here. Perhaps someone knows what it is and why?
Much kind thanks.
Regards
Anders
-
I have now gone through all me near 300 images from my ZD camera at 100% magnification. On the factory scene that Frank mentions it appears to be noise spread over the photo. I do not see that this can be same as the purple worms even looking at full size processed image. Remember that it was 400 ASA +1.5 stops in Silkypix. Processing in CS3 and running Noise Ninjia the purple noise disappears, but... photo is cleaner with SilkyPix noise reduction.
There were three other photos that I suspected for the purple worm syndrome. For two of those it was simply blurred objects, per verification with other frames.
The fourth one does not seem like the purple worm syndrome, but I attach a 100% crop from it here. Perhaps someone knows what it is and why?
Much kind thanks.
Regards
Anders
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136527\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Hi Anders,
Do you have a Gretag Macbeth Color Checker or even a 8 x 10" gray card? If you do and if you can find the time, maybe shoot a full frame (covering the whole card) of both and share the MEFs if you can. Exposure need to be as accurate as you can get it. Then you can start to stop down by 1, 2, 3, 4 stops etc and then over-exposed by 1, 2, 3, 4 stops etc. on the gray card. If the ZD is having any issues with the sensor reacting to over or under exposures, I think it will show very clearly in one of those shots. Game to give it a try?
Henry
-
Hi Anders,
Do you have a Gretag Macbeth Color Checker or even a 8 x 10" gray card? If you do and if you can find the time, maybe shoot a full frame (covering the whole card) of both and share the MEFs if you can. Exposure need to be as accurate as you can get it. Then you can start to stop down by 1, 2, 3, 4 stops etc and then over-exposed by 1, 2, 3, 4 stops etc. on the gray card. If the ZD is having any issues with the sensor reacting to over or under exposures, I think it will show very clearly in one of those shots. Game to give it a try?
Henry
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136530\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Hello Henry,
Color checker and gray card would be useful to have! When reading your post last nigh I meant to drive in morning to nearest place to buy them about an hour away, but rain this morning made me lazy! Instead I took the gray side of my Domke wrap, a slightly off white board and a large flat neoprene pouch and posted on a wall. That is a simulation of what you suggest .
Conditions were following:
Diffused light on subjects from large windows behind my back and cloudy sky just before noon time.
Tripod+cable release.
80mm f1.9 at f22 and about 70cm away from subject.
ISO 100
Processing in SilkyPix
Film color V2 to give more saturation, in order to MAGNIFY any problem.
Shooting photos with exposure compensation -3, -2, -1.5, -1.0,-0.5,0,+0.5,+1.0,+1.5,+2.0,+3.0 Then doing reverse by compensation in SilkyPix.
Off white showed nothing.
Gray showed nothing.
However, at black neoprene I got results as attached, 100% crops.
Of course, PLEASE NOTE: I very rarely use Film color V2 because it makes too overly saturated photos, AND SilkyPix in their manual recomments to individually desaturate specific colors when using such overly saturated color setting.
THIS IS SIMPLY ONLY A TEST OF THE SENSOR.
Is what we see normal? Is this normal noise?
To magnify the issue further in order to make it more visual, in addition to color setting V2 I also slid the saturation adjustment to max +3. PLEASE NOTE: doing same on a normal photo with colors would result in very overly highly radiant saturated colors. Again this is only a test for the sensor!
With above in mind, is my sensor acting normal???
I should say that having spent so much more on a camera than my D200, I did not expect this condition. Yet, the test is EXTREME conditions, so with that in mind is this normal to expect from a medium format sensor?
Much thanks.
Regards
Anders
-
Hello Henry,
Color checker and gray card would be useful to have! When reading your post last nigh I meant to drive in morning to nearest place to buy them about an hour away, but rain this morning made me lazy! Instead I took the gray side of my Domke wrap, a slightly off white board and a large flat neoprene pouch and posted on a wall. That is a simulation of what you suggest .
Conditions were following:
Diffused light on subjects from large windows behind my back and cloudy sky just before noon time.
Tripod+cable release.
80mm f1.9 at f22 and about 70cm away from subject.
ISO 100
Processing in SilkyPix
Film color V2 to give more saturation, in order to MAGNIFY any problem.
Shooting photos with exposure compensation -3, -2, -1.5, -1.0,-0.5,0,+0.5,+1.0,+1.5,+2.0,+3.0 Then doing reverse by compensation in SilkyPix.
Off white showed nothing.
Gray showed nothing.
However, at black neoprene I got results as attached, 100% crops.
Of course, PLEASE NOTE: I very rarely use Film color V2 because it makes too overly saturated photos, AND SilkyPix in their manual recomments to individually desaturate specific colors when using such overly saturated color setting.
THIS IS SIMPLY ONLY A TEST OF THE SENSOR.
Is what we see normal? Is this normal noise?
To magnify the issue further in order to make it more visual, in addition to color setting V2 I also slid the saturation adjustment to max +3. PLEASE NOTE: doing same on a normal photo with colors would result in very overly highly radiant saturated colors. Again this is only a test for the sensor!
With above in mind, is my sensor acting normal???
I should say that having spent so much more on a camera than my D200, I did not expect this condition. Yet, the test is EXTREME conditions, so with that in mind is this normal to expect from a medium format sensor?
Much thanks.
Regards
Anders
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136698\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Dear Anders,
Looks like some colour noise to me but if you have to push SAT so high to see something like this, MHO is just go and enjoy your camera.
IMHO some cameras are just meant to be used at low ISOs and some can go higher. Like film, we always try to push the envelope when we expose and process but reality is if you want good images, you must first respect the capability of your media and then you work within their latitude. Digital should be no difference.
Of course some other backs may be able to give you cleaner files at higher ISOs but the question is how much would you pay to have that ability. If as a commercial photographer you need that capability and having that will bring you sufficient rewards, then I think the answer will be obvious. On the other hand, I think there are more photographers who are struggling just to pay off their Canons and Nikons and can only lust for better equipment. These photographers spend more time trying to be good at their craft because they do not have the luxury of errors.
Rant aside, I think you have a good working camera.
Best wishes,
Henry
-
Looks fine, but make ONE shot correctly exposed on ISO400 please.
-
WOW, I sure am glad I read this this morning. I was almost out the door to go buy one here in LA. Think I'll Wait a while. The Mamiya Rep here is a friend of mine. Gonna have a talk with him. Thanks everyone.
-
Dear Anders,
Looks like some colour noise to me but if you have to push SAT so high to see something like this, MHO is just go and enjoy your camera.
....
Like film, we always try to push the envelope when we expose and process but reality is if you want good images, you must first respect the capability of your media and then you work within their latitude. Digital should be no difference.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136705\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Henry,
I think you pointed out something very true here, perhaps we try push too far and pixel peep too much, while it is all about learning the extent of the limitations of our tools.
Same time.... below are two more samples.
Regards
Anders
-
Looks fine, but make ONE shot correctly exposed on ISO400 please.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136706\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Frank, Henry and others,
Attached are two samples at ISO 400 and ISO 50. This time I used CS3's ACR to save to JPG, all default settings. It also shows up same in SilkyPix using Standard Color mode and no saturation boost, I tried that also. As my previous shots I let the camera meter. Left half of image was off white, right half was black neoprene (as seen here), lower hald was a gray. Same condition with large windows in my back providing diffused light from overcast skies, windows about 4m from subjects, subjects on wall parallel to windows.
I am surpriced I see this noise (or what it is) also at ISO 50 alreaedy. Granted this is similar to a very dark shadow.
Is this typical behavior of the Dalsa ZD sensor and a limitaiton extent in dark shadows? Or is it abnormal?
Much thanks.
Regards
Anders
Woops... no label; left on should be ISO 400, right ISO50 (ISO 50 the better one)
It should also be stated that out of 300 photos I only suspected similar on about 2, both those posted in higher up under this thread. And.. last one of those I am not even sure if exact same thing... So most of time I not observed this problem but the ZD is capable of very high quality photos!
-
Frank, Henry and others,
Attached are two samples at ISO 400 and ISO 50. This time I used CS3's ACR to save to JPG, all default settings. It also shows up same in SilkyPix using Standard Color mode and no saturation boost, I tried that also. As my previous shots I let the camera meter. Left half of image was off white, right half was black neoprene (as seen here), lower hald was a gray. Same condition with large windows in my back providing diffused light from overcast skies, windows about 4m from subjects, subjects on wall parallel to windows.
I am surpriced I see this noise (or what it is) also at ISO 50 alreaedy. Granted this is similar to a very dark shadow.
Is this typical behavior of the Dalsa ZD sensor and a limitaiton extent in dark shadows? Or is it abnormal?
Much thanks.
Regards
Anders
Woops... no label; left on should be ISO 400, right ISO50 (ISO 50 the better one)
It should also be stated that out of 300 photos I only suspected similar on about 2, both those posted in higher up under this thread. And.. last one of those I am not even sure if exact same thing... So most of time I not observed this problem but the ZD is capable of very high quality photos!
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136833\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Dear Anders,
I believe you have the IR filter attached but I suspect that the sensor is still picking up some IR. If you have a B&W 486 IR/UV blocking filter, we can certainly find out by shooting with the filter on your lens.
Henry
-
Anders,
I see the "purple worms" in your ISO 400 sample. They are subtle but there. It seems to me the firmware is making some colour smoothing assumptions during its high ISO processing that are not well designed. This is too bad; this kind of blotchiness is unacceptable in my work.
-s
-
Do any of you think you might be asking a little too much from the sensor in the ZD? The same chip in my Valeo wasn't even usable at ISO 200.
I've shot tests on lights with the ZD back at ISO 400 and the results weren't bad but I would never use it for a client.
If you need a high ISO back look at the new Leaf, Phase and Sinar backs. Or better yet, a Canon 5D....
-
Do any of you think you might be asking a little too much from the sensor in the ZD? The same chip in my Valeo wasn't even usable at ISO 200.
I've shot tests on lights with the ZD back at ISO 400 and the results weren't bad but I would never use it for a client.
If you need a high ISO back look at the new Leaf, Phase and Sinar backs. Or better yet, a Canon 5D....
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136961\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Bob,
In all respect, I belive you may be missing my point. Granted it would be lovely if the ISO performance of the ZD at 200 & 400 ISO would be better. My point is not the normal noice but the colored purple that on my ZD camera body even shows up at ISO 50! There seem to be a problem, does it not?
For high ISO seems the upcoming D3 will beat anything, but that is NOT the issue here...
Regards
Anders
-
Before people get too scared, please check my sample again (posted in this thread), it's not noise on a black surface I'm talking about, but it's like there has been stamps all over the photo.