...you'll get a better result by increasing the exposure a little bit to the right, which is the same thing as lowering the ISO...I don't understand this. the purpose of exposing to the right is to get more levels in the middle of the histogram because the first stop provides 4096 levels, the second stop 2048, etc. if you shoot at ISO 800 and expose to the right, you're getting more levels for the middle and low regions. how does this equate to shooting at ISO 400 without exposing to the right in terms of levels and detail? i.e., ISO 800 ev +1.0 == ISO 400 ev 0.0
you shouldn't follow the 'expose to the right' religion if you're shooting at high ISO. there's no point in shooting at ISO 400 and exposing to the right. you may as well drop to ISO 200.
"Lets say you find that exposing plus one stop over the meter does indeed give you plenty of highlight detail to pull back in a Raw converter."
I'm not looking for more detail in the highlights. I want more detail in the lowlights, hence ETTR.
how did you find that extra 1 ½ stops? I'd be interested to know. in my images, any highlights above 255 are blown out and irretrievable.
I don't think it is the same. in terms of overall exposure, it's the same. in terms of levels per stop, it's different, at least from my understanding.
right, but the histogram would be in the middle instead of to the right and you'd have less detail in the shadows. right?
and then it's a matter of balancing detail and levels in the shadows with ETTR against the extra noise that might come with the higher ISO.
thank you again digitaldog. you've been patient and helpful.
regards,
Gregory
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In both scenario’s the ISO of the camera is the same. You set it for ISO 100, you get a fixed amount of noise at normal exposure (normal being what the meter tells you, not based on ETTR). You keep the unit at ISO 100 but open one stop (the effective equivalent of shooting at at ISO 50). You don't blow out highlights and move more levels from last stop of shadow to first stop highlight, the result being less noise in that last stop.
I think the point made on the DVD is if you need higher ISO, its because you don't have enough light and using ETTR reduces the effectiveness here so get the shot and live with a bit more noise (more due to the exposure and the ISO).
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I was a little confused by one statement in the tutorial regarding exposing to the right (which I'm familiar with).Quote...you'll get a better result by increasing the exposure a little bit to the right, which is the same thing as lowering the ISO...I don't understand this. the purpose of exposing to the right is to get more levels in the middle of the histogram because the first stop provides 4096 levels, the second stop 2048, etc. if you shoot at ISO 800 and expose to the right, you're getting more levels for the middle and low regions. how does this equate to shooting at ISO 400 without exposing to the right in terms of levels and detail? i.e., ISO 800 ev +1.0 == ISO 400 ev 0.0
you shouldn't follow the 'expose to the right' religion if you're shooting at high ISO. there's no point in shooting at ISO 400 and exposing to the right. you may as well drop to ISO 200.
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In order to use ETTR, you have to find the point of full sensor saturation and back off a tad. So you need to use the adjustments in the Raw processor to see if you can get just shy of 255 in all three rendered channels. I'm not referring to highlight detail, I'm referring to shooting so that specular highlights might be 255 but anything you wish to reproduce is just below that. ETTR isn't about over exposure, its about proper exposure and that means deciding where you want to clip and not clip. The results are more data in the shadows.
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If you are shooting at ISO 400 rather than ISO 200, then presumably you need a higher shutter speed, smaller aperture, or both. If ETTR requires a positive exposure adjustment of +1 EV then you are back to where you started with ISO 200 exposure settings. However, if you decide to use ISO 200, then the histogram would indicate that an exposure adjustment of +1 EV is still needed, so the same argument would indicate that you should drop back to ISO 100.confused!!! let me see if I can understand this.
confused!!! let me see if I can understand this.
"exposure settings" means aperture and shutter speed without regard for the ISO speed? so:
with ISO 400, the camera calculates that correct exposure would require f8 @ 1/125.
you add 1 EV by increasing the aperture to f5.6.
with ISO 200, the camera calculates the correct exposure would require f5.6 @ 1/125; i.e., the same aperture and shutter speed as that required at ISO 400 +1 EV.
SO... to understand this, I need to know how ISO speed affects the light received by the sensor and how it affects the number of levels per stop. to my uneducated mind, your explanation seems to infer that the sensors pick up the same amount of light and levels per stop regardless of the ISO speed, and that the ISO speed affects the ADC's 'multiplier' effect rather than the sensors; i.e., how it multiplies the original analog signal to produce the final digital data.
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I need to know how ISO speed affects the light received by the sensor and how it affects the number of levels per stop.
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The other thing you gotta understand is that ETTR is a technique to maximize the quality potential of a capture. ETTR isn't really something that is useful for an ISO other than the camera's optimum ISO. So, there would be no reason to increase the ISO and then also ETTR. You would be better off (I'm pretty sure) simply using a lower ISO.
The other thing you gotta understand is that ETTR is a technique to maximize the quality potential of a capture. ETTR isn't really something that is useful for an ISO other than the camera's optimum ISO. So, there would be no reason to increase the ISO and then also ETTR. You would be better off (I'm pretty sure) simply using a lower ISO.
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That's what my tests showed. IF you need higher ISO (to capture the scene), you need a higher ISO.
The proper exposure based on ISO requires you know the actual sensitivity of your chip based upon exposing for highlights such you produce as much useable data in the shadows as possible.
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Two notes to the above.I don't know what the above is in reply to, but my analysis clearly showed that noise is related almost entirely to exposure, not ISO. However, you can not expose at full well much above base ISO because you will get clipping in the ADC. Some cameras place the highlights some distance below ADC clipping, and you might be able to increase ISO somewhat and still expose at the full well of the sensor if you have one of those. In addition, there is often less read noise at high ISO and that could improve the S:N in the deep shadows. However, highlight S:N would be worse owing to the effect of shot noise.
1. Higher ISO does not mean automatically more noise. saw a demonstration on DPReview (one of the authors was John Sheehy) proving, that not the higher ISO but low light causes noise.
The consequence of this is, that in such situations, when the lighting is enough but the exposure can not be increased to achieve ETTR because of other considerations, then increasing the ISO helps gaining more detail in the shadows.
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2. The optimal ISO is not always the base. Example: the Canon D40. The DR with ISO 200 is about 0.2 EV larger than that of ISO 100. This is due to the fact, that the range of pixel values is larger with ISO 200 than with ISO 100. 0.2 EV is not much wort (though it could be important), but perhaps other cameras will follow suit and offer a much higher value range with higher ISOs. 14 bits should be plenty enough for that.
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Quote...you'll get a better result by increasing the exposure a little bit to the right, which is the same thing as lowering the ISO...I don't understand this. the purpose of exposing to the right is to get more levels in the middle of the histogram because the first stop provides 4096 levels, the second stop 2048, etc. if you shoot at ISO 800 and expose to the right, you're getting more levels for the middle and low regions. how does this equate to shooting at ISO 400 without exposing to the right in terms of levels and detail? i.e., ISO 800 ev +1.0 == ISO 400 ev 0.0
you shouldn't follow the 'expose to the right' religion if you're shooting at high ISO. there's no point in shooting at ISO 400 and exposing to the right. you may as well drop to ISO 200.
please explain. details and levels in the lower region of the histogram are important to me because many of the birds I photograph have dark regions which don't contain as much detail as I would prefer.
and... is this level structure carried into the RAW processor and beyond? i.e., after processing, is the lowest stop still restricted to only 128 levels?
and... the Canon Mark III shoots in 14-bit (from Canon's page: "The extra power of dual DIGIC III processors has also allowed analog-to-digital conversion to improve from 12 to 14 bits per channel, meaning better tonal gradation for RAW images."). would this increase the levels of the lower stop in the histogram by 2^2 from 2^7 to 2^9 == 512 levels?
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The amount of IQ benefit that comes from 14-bit data is maximum at the lowest ISOs, and is nearly infinitesimal. There is too much analog noise before and during digitization for the extra bits to carry any significant extra signal. However, being in a format with a higher precision, the extra bits may force converters to use more precision in the conversion process; something that could be done, also with 12-bit data.
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The question on which I would appreciate more clarity is how best to do ETTR when the camera's automatic metering is not doing so. As I see it, I have two choices (switching to manual exposure); (i) increase the ISO leaving aperture and shutter speed unchanged, or (ii) increase exposure by leaving the ISO unchanged and either opening the aperture or slowing the shutter speed. Let us say compensation worth 1 to 1.5 stops is generally needed to achieve this (though it could vary by scene). Which of these approaches (i.e. (i) or (ii) ) will give me an image with less visible noise and why?
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You may find this research of interest: 12 vs 14 bit (http://tinyurl.com/2e4nss)
The question on which I would appreciate more clarity is how best to do ETTR when the camera's automatic metering is not doing so. As I see it, I have two choices (switching to manual exposure); (i) increase the ISO leaving aperture and shutter speed unchanged, or (ii) increase exposure by leaving the ISO unchanged and either opening the aperture or slowing the shutter speed. Let us say compensation worth 1 to 1.5 stops is generally needed to achieve this (though it could vary by scene). Which of these approaches (i.e. (i) or (ii) ) will give me an image with less visible noise and why?
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Ray - some qualifications on aspects of your suggestions, I think. Firstly, if the camera is in an auto exposure mode, changing ISO inversely changes the exposure so one shouldn't get closer or further to/from the desired ETTR setting unless one bumps into a constraint. If the approach is to change ISO, I do believe one must move into manual mode to preserve the exposure settings and move the histogram rightward, or again in manual mode over-ride the auto setting at a given ISO and expose more.
Secondly, when shooting raw of course, contrast, saturation and sharpening is not relevant - it should all be turned off/neutral so one imports an image as raw as it gets from the camera to the raw converter. Working from camera-baked jpegs I can see may be another story.
My experience is, the amount of highlight warning flashing that takes place is significantly affected primarily by the contrast setting. All you have to do is try shooting an ETTR of the same scene with contrast at a minimum and contrast at a maximum. When contrast is at a maximum, you could have an entire sky flashing in the preview. But the same exposure, with in-camera contrast set at a minimum, will produce a preview with just a small area of the brightest part of the sky flashing.
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Interesting, both you and Ray are saying that higher ISOs are less noisy - specifically in John's post - less read noise. But do they not also produce more "shot" noise? Is it not normally the case that we see more noise in images shot at high ISO?
Ray - some qualifications on aspects of your suggestions, I think. Firstly, if the camera is in an auto exposure mode, changing ISO inversely changes the exposure so one shouldn't get closer or further to/from the desired ETTR setting unless one bumps into a constraint. If the approach is to change ISO, I do believe one must move into manual mode to preserve the exposure settings and move the histogram rightward, or again in manual mode over-ride the auto setting at a given ISO and expose more.
(John, I believe, perhaps incorrectly?, that there are trade-offs between these options.)
Secondly, when shooting raw of course, contrast, saturation and sharpening is not relevant - it should all be turned off/neutral so one imports an image as raw as it gets from the camera to the raw converter. Working from camera-baked jpegs I can see may be another story.
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I often use the 2.5 MB embedded JPEGs to make small images
Ray, this is interesting - do you find in general the minimum contrast setting produces an impression of clipping that is closer to what you would eventually observe in the raw converter?
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Ray, this is interesting - do you find in general the minimum contrast setting produces an impression of clipping that is closer to what you would eventually observe in the raw converter?Andrew Rodney, in his [a href=\"http://www.digitalphotopro.com/index2.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=316&pop=1&page=0&Itemid=41]Exposing for RAW[/url] article, has someting interesting to say about contrast & settings:
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