Luminous Landscape Forum
Raw & Post Processing, Printing => Printing: Printers, Papers and Inks => Topic started by: Jack Flesher on November 30, 2006, 07:58:43 pm
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FWIW, my dealer got a shipment of 3800's in today so I scarfed mine up. Easy to set up, installed flawlessly. Not too much to tell yet, as I just printed out a bunch of my profiling test targets on all my favorite media so I can build profiles tomorrow -- oh boy
First impressions are very positive:
1) Printer is smaller than I expected -- think just a bit larger than the 2400. 2) It is quiet and does not wiggle the so-so stand I have it on. 3) Initial print quality looks superb. 4) Swapping between Pk and Mk ink takes maybe 10-15 seconds. 5) Spiffy cartridge design and easy to change. 6) You press a button on the control panel (electronic) to open the ink well cover! 7) Oh yeah, USB2 port AND built-in 10/100 LAN! 8) Auto install was painless and installed a full set of paper profiles along with the drivers (at least on my Win machine).
More to follow once I get the profiles built and spew out a few real prints!
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Jack,
Epson specs show 1:55 / 2:55 to switch PK -> MK / MK - > PK. Are you sure about the 10-15 seconds???
Otherwise sounds very exciting.
--John
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Jack,
Epson specs show 1:55 / 2:55 to switch PK -> MK / MK - > PK. Are you sure about the 10-15 seconds???
Otherwise sounds very exciting.
--John
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=87967\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
No, I'm not sure at all as I didn't time it -- I'm sure Epson's specs are accurate. The change is automatic based on media selected (or it can be done manually) and did not seem to take very long, but I'll time it next time
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Hi Jack, I'm looking to upgrade from my aging 2200 to the 3800 and so I look forward to hearing what you have to say about it. If you end up creating a set of 3800 notes similar to what you did for your old 4800, I'm sure that would be greatly appreciated.
Eric
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FWIW, my dealer got a shipment of 3800's in today so I scarfed mine up. Easy to set up, installed flawlessly. Not too much to tell yet, as I just printed out a bunch of my profiling test targets on all my favorite media so I can build profiles tomorrow -- oh boy
First impressions are very positive:
1) Printer is smaller than I expected -- think just a bit larger than the 2400. 2) It is quiet and does not wiggle the so-so stand I have it on. 3) Initial print quality looks superb. 4) Swapping between Pk and Mk ink takes maybe 10-15 seconds. 5) Spiffy cartridge design and easy to change. 6) You press a button on the control panel (electronic) to open the ink well cover! 7) Oh yeah, USB2 port AND built-in 10/100 LAN! 8) Auto install was painless and installed a full set of paper profiles along with the drivers (at least on my Win machine).
More to follow once I get the profiles built and spew out a few real prints!
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=87965\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I'm so glad to hear real life impressions of the 3800. I have a deposit on one--but it may still be several weeks until I get it. I measured against my 2200---and the biggest difference was that it is 10 inches high--several more than the 2200--and about 4.5 inches deeper which surprised me, but luckily I have the room.
I got my Epson 3800 samples today too--so that REALLY whetted my appetite LOL.
Looking forward to hearing more.
Diane
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Jack,
Would you happen to know if the 3800 id "linearized" like its bigger siblings? I have the 2400, but this new printer is very interesting.
Thanks,
Paul
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4) Swapping between Pk and Mk ink takes maybe 10-15 seconds. 5) Spiffy cartridge design and easy to change.
I think time's flying for you with your new printer ;-)
The change over from Photo-matt black took 1min 42secs here on mine the first time I did it. It also recorded 2% of the matt black ink used in the change.
I'm just in the process of writing up a report on the printer, but there are a few issues that need working out before I want to put too much in print. Getting the right paper settings for non-OEM paper may prove more complex than previous desktop printers, so profiling is taking longer than expected.
Also worth noting that there is a newer driver already on the Epson UK support site than that supplied with the printer, also there are a few errors and incongruities in the PDF manual to add to the lack of information.
Paul Holman
www.colourprofiles.com
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There's also a firmware update listed (o02269).
In typical Epson fashion no info is provided about what the new driver or firmware add or fix.
Also I see that the discrepancy continues with this printer with regards to the driver versions for the US and the European markets. UK site lists version 5.5b and US site lists 5.51 (for Win XP). Also no mention of firmware update on US site.
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Jippy I get mine by monday. Just had a call from my supplier in the Netherlands!!!
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Hi all,
I have 3 3800s in stock right now. We went through a pallette-full yesterday in preorders.
These will go quick, so if you want one, email me quick!
Cliff
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I think time's flying for you with your new printer ;-)
The change over from Photo-matt black took 1min 42secs here on mine the first time I did it. It also recorded 2% of the matt black ink used in the change.
Paul Holman
www.colourprofiles.com
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88006\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Be very interested in your report. On Michael's recorded interview, the Epson guy said (I think -- this is just from memory) -- that the changeover used only one mL (I think he called it "negligible" or some such.) 2% isn't much unless you change a lot, but would it be possible to look and see if subsequent changes continue to be 2%? Whatever, it's a lot better than changing out on older machines...
JC
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Be very interested in your report. On Michael's recorded interview, the Epson guy said (I think -- this is just from memory) -- that the changeover used only one mL (I think he called it "negligible" or some such.) 2% isn't much unless you change a lot, but would it be possible to look and see if subsequent changes continue to be 2%? Whatever, it's a lot better than changing out on older machines...
Takes 1.5 ml PK -> MK, 4.5 ml MK -> PK per Epson specs. The roundtrip is about $4.15 estimated ink cost. See for comparison of 3800, 4800 and Canon IPF5000:
http://www.canonipf5000.wikispaces.com/FAQ#Pros (http://www.canonipf5000.wikispaces.com/FAQ#Pros)
--John
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7) Oh yeah, USB2 port AND built-in 10/100 LAN! 8) Auto install was painless and installed a full set of paper profiles along with the drivers (at least on my Win machine).
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=87965\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Hey, we have something in common here :-) Just got mine today.
I have mine set up on Ethernet port (over a wireless bridge as I don't have space near the PC, and I can possibly spool large files to a print server).
It took a little more time and head scratching to set up as the Ethernet port would not work until it was enabled via the menus on the LCD panels. Is this something that anyone else has had problems with or did the Ethernet port work straight out of the box? Would have been nice to have had clearer instructions on how to set up the machine.
There's also a firmware update listed (o02269).
Mine shipped with 002468, which I am assuming is later firmware version that that listed on the UK website (mine was purcahsed in UK). As to updating the firmware start the Front Panel application and everything looks straightforward - though no clue so far as to difference between network and device driver firmware.
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Okay, profiles built, test images printed and even printed up a real image.
First print impressions are very positive. Image quality is essentially equal to my epson 7800 and using custom paper profiles the continuous tone grayscale slice looks perfectly neutral. Image is very sharp yet remains smoothness. In short, it appears to produce identical prints to my 7800.
~~~
Eric asked about a running diary: I really don't have the time to devote to that this time around, so will rely on this forum to post updates and share ideas.
Paul asked if this printer is "linearized" like the 4/7/9-800: I really don't know -- maybe Michael does?
Ethernet: I did not connect mine that way, but there was a separate set of instructions to DL off the software CD that appeas to explain it pretty well -- they did mention the need to select that port in both the driver and on the printer's LCD menu.
Firmware and Driver updates: Mine shipped with FW 02468 and Win Driver 5.51 and I do not see any updates on the US site for either.
~~~
The only fly in the ointment so far is a minor nit. Standard papers like Premium Luster can be multi-sheet fed through the main feed port. When you print on thick Fine Art paper, you need to single-feed through the rear tray. You also need to manually build and select a custom paper type for the thicker paper. You can build 10 presets via the LCD panel or using the "Remote Panel" where you set paper type and thickness, platten gap and custom align the head-gap to that specific paper -- a spiffy set of options for maximum print quality, especially considering the variables in different fine art papers.
However, when switching from type of paper to the other, the feed tray option will automatically change (you get notified in the print dialog) and the Mk/Pk ink will switch over automatically, but the custom paper parameters do not switch. You need to set them manually, even to get back to the default "standard" setting.
A minor annoyance is all, but one that needs to be considered lest you waste a few sheets of paper if you forget. Nonetheless, an annoyance I'll live with for the abilty to easily switch between paper types and Mk and Pk inks!
~~~
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Okay, profiles built, test images printed and even printed up a real image.
First print impressions are very positive. Image quality is essentially equal to my epson 7800 and using custom paper profiles the continuous tone grayscale slice looks perfectly neutral. Image is very sharp yet remains smoothness. In short, it appears to produce identical prints to my 7800.
~~~
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88137\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Jack, then for all the talk about the new printing algorithms, you aren't seeing anything different I take it. That's okay--what I've seen from the 7800 is wonderful. I got 3800 samples yesterday--a b/w (greg gorman) and color (forgot who) and I was pleased.
May I ask why you added the 3800--is it to give you a bit of flexibility--not having to crank up that much larger printer??
Diane
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Jack, then for all the talk about the new printing algorithms, you aren't seeing anything different I take it. That's okay--what I've seen from the 7800 is wonderful. I got 3800 samples yesterday--a b/w (greg gorman) and color (forgot who) and I was pleased.
May I ask why you added the 3800--is it to give you a bit of flexibility--not having to crank up that much larger printer??
Diane
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88142\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
To your first question -- I think we are seeing something different in that a pro-sumer priced printer is delivering prints as good as a full-blown pro level printer. (I'll also add, but carefully, that there is the impression that the 3800 prints are a bit sharper than the 7800 prints. I have not empirically confirmed this and the difference if really there is very slight, so I do not want to be quoted as saying it's so. I mention it primarily as a point of curiosity if others see it too.)
To your second question -- I added the 3800 so I would have a lower-cost option for printing with Mk ink on art papers than doing an ink swap in the 7800 or buying a second 7800 dedicated to Mk ink. Since I only print on thicker sheet-stock for art papers, I did not need another roll-fed printer. I also liked the option of being able to print a handfull 4x6's or 5x7's on single sheets when desired. Add that it fit on the printer stand next to my computer -- and for as rarely as I need one, it can serve as my everyday desktop plain paper printer. In these last two uses, the 3800 replaces an R800.
Cheers,
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Mine is en-route! I have never done ethernet printing before. I am on OSX, and all three of my computers are networked together through one of those ordinary Linksys 4 port switch/routers you get anywhere. Any info on how one does ethernet printing? I am presently set up as a USB print shop.
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To your first question -- I think we are seeing something different in that a pro-sumer priced printer is delivering prints as good as a full-blown pro level printer. (I'll also add, but carefully, that there is the impression that the 3800 prints are a bit sharper than the 7800 prints. I have not empirically confirmed this and the difference if really there is very slight, so I do not want to be quoted as saying it's so. I mention it primarily as a point of curiosity if others see it too.)
To your second question -- I added the 3800 so I would have a lower-cost option for printing with Mk ink on art papers than doing an ink swap in the 7800 or buying a second 7800 dedicated to Mk ink. Since I only print on thicker sheet-stock for art papers, I did not need another roll-fed printer. I also liked the option of being able to print a handfull 4x6's or 5x7's on single sheets when desired. Add that it fit on the printer stand next to my computer -- and for as rarely as I need one, it can serve as my everyday desktop plain paper printer. In these last two uses, the 3800 replaces an R800.
Cheers,
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88146\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Thank you very much. It answers my questions sufficiently--esp. since you are just starting to print with this printer. Will you print only 16 x 20 as largest in sheet? The rest makes a lot of sense to me. I don't need a very large format printer--my very large (non gallery prints--for commercial clients) are done through a graphics lab. I will print the occasional 16 x 24 (hand cut sheets as I see it now) and smaller.
I've even pulled out a long mothballed 1280 for my 'everyday' printer LOL--I couldn't make much sense of what to buy otherwise for now.
Thanks for your impressions. I'm looking forward to receiving mine--though the list I'm on seems to be long LOL. I'll continue to print monos with QTR on my 2200 until I get it---and then use the 2200 as an 'experimental' printer for fabric and exotic paper printer--and it could end up a dedicated b/w depending upon how I feel about monos with the 3800.
Diane
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Mine is en-route! I have never done ethernet printing before. I am on OSX, and all three of my computers are networked together through one of those ordinary Linksys 4 port switch/routers you get anywhere. Any info on how one does ethernet printing? I am presently set up as a USB print shop.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88150\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
If you have three computers already networked then the printer is no harder to add to the network. As Jack has pointed out above you need to read the intructions on the CD before you install the printer...it would appear the poster included with the printer is not sufficient and logic does not appear to have entered into the equation. Once the printer is set up..you can enter a fixed IP or use DHCP then you can do the rest of the config from the PC.
Only big problem so far is that it is possible to print with the front cover of the printer closed, causing the printer to jam. This is pointless penny pinching when it is possible to network the machine into a different room - I now have to walk round and check the printer before printing anything. Bah!
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Mine is en-route! I have never done ethernet printing before. I am on OSX, and all three of my computers are networked together through one of those ordinary Linksys 4 port switch/routers you get anywhere. Any info on how one does ethernet printing? I am presently set up as a USB print shop.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88150\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
if you are in mac osX, just plug in the printer in your hub, go to printer setup and add your printer....just like you would any other usb or firewire printer....i found ethernet printing to be extremely slow though....printing a large file really takes a long time for the printer to spool....i wish epson would go gigabit ethernet...the 10/100 is too slow
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Only big problem so far is that it is possible to print with the front cover of the printer closed, causing the printer to jam. This is pointless penny pinching when it is possible to network the machine into a different room - I now have to walk round and check the printer before printing anything. Bah!
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88160\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
David: That front cover pops off very easily, just gentily pull one end off the nub on the tray and the whole thing pops off. I pulled mine off immediately after the first print -- what a useless design And yes, the remaning amount of exit tray is long enough to hold a 17x22 sheet, but the end hangs off a bit.
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Will you print only 16 x 20 as largest in sheet? [a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88154\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Hi Dianne: 17x22 Mk on fine art paper is probably the largest single sheet I will print on that printer, but I have the 7800 for my regular Pk papers and larger work. FWIW you can enter custom paper sizes up to something like 37-1/2" long by up to 17 inches wide, so you could cut your own single sheets from rolls if you want. IOW, 16x24 would be easy, but since it isn't a standard paper size, you'd need to cut it from 16" or 24" wide rolls.
Cheers,
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...i found ethernet printing to be extremely slow though....printing a large file really takes a long time for the printer to spool....
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88161\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Slower than the USB port on my 1.5gHz 15" G4 PowerBook? (I think it is a USB1)
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Hi all,
I have 3 3800s in stock right now. We went through a pallette-full yesterday in preorders.
These will go quick, so if you want one, email me quick!
Cliff
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88069\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Smarty that I am----I mentioned this to someone else---thinking that they would all be gone and I didn't email myself. That person got the last one--and here I sit with the retailer whose list I'm on being unsure of shipments--with a VERY long list. I may have to start looking around. I'd really really like it before the end of the year.
Addendum: I believe I have resolved this--will know by the end of next week.
Diane
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Slower than the USB port on my 1.5gHz 15" G4 PowerBook? (I think it is a USB1)
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88188\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
i think bluetooth is faster then USB1:)
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Smarty that I am----I mentioned this to someone else---thinking that they would all be gone and I didn't email myself. That person got the last one--and here I sit with the retailer whose list I'm on being unsure of shipments--with a VERY long list. I may have to start looking around. I'd really really like it before the end of the year.
Diane
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88189\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Sorry Diane, that would be me that got the last one.
I encourage you to call around, I'd bet there still might be one available
somewhere. Might just take some time and effort on the phone.
I couldn't find anyplace on the net that showed them available, not even Samy's,
but as it turned out Samy's did have a few.
And Cliff if you read this, I got the tracking #, thanks.
Diane, good luck in your search,
Bill
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I don't know if it helps, Diane, but Pictureline (www.pictureline.com) shows them in stock for about $1,295. I bought my iPF5000 from them and was very happy with the service. I worked with Ken who was quite helpful.
Good luck,
Dale
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You can build 10 presets via the LCD panel or using the "Remote Panel" where you set paper type and thickness, platten gap and custom align the head-gap to that specific paper --
but the custom paper parameters do not switch. You need to set them manually, even to get back to the default "standard" setting.
What isn't clear to me is if the custom settings made on the printer's menu system over-ride the OS printer driver's instructions.
If they do, it's a potential problem as it isn't flagged anywhere in the driver that it's settings are being ignored.
If the custom settings were made for a thin paper type and you then put a thicker paper in, you would risk the heads hitting the thicker paper and doing some damage.
Is this custom paper setting menu an option on the larger format printers ? If so how does it work there ?
It all seems poorly documented and an area for misunderstandings.
Thanks
Paul Holman
www.colourprofiles.com
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if you are in mac osX, just plug in the printer in your hub, go to printer setup and add your printer....just like you would any other usb or firewire printer....i found ethernet printing to be extremely slow though....printing a large file really takes a long time for the printer to spool....i wish epson would go gigabit ethernet...the 10/100 is too slow
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88161\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I had no issues under OSX either. I don't know it's slower (didn't run tests) but it sure is convenient if you're printing from multiple machines. I'm on 100 bast T, seems to send the data rather quickly. I did have an issue losing the network connection when shutting off the machine. I've just been keeping it on all the time (another one of those Epson debates. Greg Gorman told me he never shuts off his printers, good enough for me).
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I had no issues under OSX either. I don't know it's slower (didn't run tests) but it sure is convenient if you're printing from multiple machines. I'm on 100 bast T, seems to send the data rather quickly. I did have an issue losing the network connection when shutting off the machine. I've just been keeping it on all the time (another one of those Epson debates. Greg Gorman told me he never shuts off his printers, good enough for me).
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88230\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I never turn my computers, printers or any related eqpt off. That being said, the printer should not fall off the network. Did it happen more than once? Try logging into the printer's IP through Safari (or any web browser) and assigning it a static IP. Make it something far from your DHCP pool. In other words, if your machines are all 10.0.1.1, 10.0.1.2, 10.0.1.3 etc, make the printer 10.0.1.50. Some routers also provide for a static IP pool, but simply making it far from the rest of the numbers would accomplish the same thing: prevent 2 machines from having the same IP.
I find network printing fast and have never had much luck with Epsons on firewire. If not networked, I generally go USB.
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What isn't clear to me is if the custom settings made on the printer's menu system over-ride the OS printer driver's instructions.
If they do, it's a potential problem as it isn't flagged anywhere in the driver that it's settings are being ignored.
If the custom settings were made for a thin paper type and you then put a thicker paper in, you would risk the heads hitting the thicker paper and doing some damage.
Is this custom paper setting menu an option on the larger format printers ? If so how does it work there ?
It all seems poorly documented and an area for misunderstandings.
Thanks
Paul Holman
www.colourprofiles.com
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88208\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
First off, it appears it only partially over-rides any driver input, but I cannot confirm this and the documentation appears silent on the issue.
I can tell you I wasted a sheet of Luster because it printed out with a custom setting for Fine Art paper with a wide platen gap setting and the icon for the custom paper was lit on the printer's LCD as the Luster spewed out... However, the colors appeared reasonably good on that sheet of luster, which I would not have expected since the custom setting was for Mk ink and Ultrasmooth FA paper. I had chosen luster in the driver and the software did change the ink, so it probably chose the Luster paper too, but it did appear to leave the mechanical settings of wide platen gap and different alignment setting intact. Bottom line, is you need to be sure to manually set the printer to the correct paper option before printing...
There are also custom paper options on the larger x800 printers and were also on the x600 printers. However since I only print on coated Pk stock with my 7800, I've never had to use a custom paper setting on that printer. I did have to use one for Fine Art papers and Mk ink in my 7600 -- a wider platen gap and longer drying time to avoid roller marks -- and again, that was a manual setting done at the printer LCD.
How to set up the custom settings is reasonably well documented -- what isn't well documented is exactly what is happening in the driver when you use them...
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I never turn my computers, printers or any related eqpt off. That being said, the printer should not fall off the network. Did it happen more than once? Try logging into the printer's IP through Safari (or any web browser) and assigning it a static IP. Make it something far from your DHCP pool. In other words, if your machines are all 10.0.1.1, 10.0.1.2, 10.0.1.3 etc, make the printer 10.0.1.50. Some routers also provide for a static IP pool, but simply making it far from the rest of the numbers would accomplish the same thing: prevent 2 machines from having the same IP.
I find network printing fast and have never had much luck with Epsons on firewire. If not networked, I generally go USB.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88270\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
i never turn my 4800 off...i always use firewire, fast and relyable for me...i guess it is nice to have 3 options! btw: epson told me that having the printer on ethernet and firewire on at the same time would not work....no problem here....when i am at the desk, the firewire conection is active, when i take the powerbook around the studio, ethernet printing is active through airport....
my problem with ethernet printing seems to be the spool time....with firewire it takes a couple of seconds, maybe half a minute, on ethernet it takes 5-10 minutes....never had any dropped connections though...
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Jack,
Is getting the Pro version with ColorBurst RIP software a good idea?
Thanks,
Billy
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Jack,
Is getting the Pro version with ColorBurst RIP software a good idea?
Thanks,
Billy
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88314\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Do you want to proof work that will be printed in CMYK ?
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Jack,
Is getting the Pro version with ColorBurst RIP software a good idea?
Thanks,
Billy
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88314\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
First off, the RIP included with the 3800 Pro bundle is a clipped version of ColorBurst and not ImagePrint (IP is considered the gold-standard of RIPs)... It is a partial version in that it only works with Epson papers, but I think you can upgrade it to the full version at a cost, but I don't know what that cost is or what additional papers are included. In general, if you are not doing proofing, only printing for yourself and only using a few different papers, I think a good paper profiling tool is a better place to spend your money than a RIP. Other opinions may vary on this.
I will say the few canned profiles I tested were very good. Experience tells me my own custom profiles are going to be better so I go ahead and build them as a matter of course for every new printer I get -- but that practice may be getting less necessary as the latest prniters seem to be more consistent and being delivered with better profiles -- at least for their own brand papers.
My bottom line comment is this: The standard version 3800 is an extremely capable imaging tool straight out of the box when using Epson papers and the included profiles. I think anybody who buys one will not be disappointed. I am also a big fan of Epson's encapsulated K3 inks and as such feel this printer brings the best pro quality large format output within the reach of most serious users. In that regard, I feel it is a break-through product -- much like the 2200 was a few years ago -- and will likely have the competition scrambling to play catch up again when 3800 supply lines get filled. How's that for going out on a limb?
Cheers,
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I got my 3800 this morning and installed it with no problem as a USB printer. Installing drivers and the other software was a piece off cake!
Going into CS2 and print my RGB, B&W test print, with a very familiar interface, ( come from a 2100), shows that in the 0 black area I get a 2,45 Dmax!! I used The ColorVision Spectrocolorimeter. I can’t see any metamerisme and the tonality is very smooth and neutral. I printed on Innova F-type and used the Epson Premium Luster Photo Paper setting and the B&W advanced setting with Tint to Normal since I did not had the time to do a custom profile.
So far I am happy as a …. ( what’s the English expression for Ultimate very happy ?)
I choose the Epson 3800 because of the weight, dimensions ( just a bit larger than my former 2100) and because my work is 75% B&W. I expected the 3800 with its K3 ink not to disappoint. Well so far it din’t!
Keep you posted on my findings.
Henk
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My .02 on RIPs- Back in the day, (2000? ) the supplied Epson drivers were ...well..something akin to a redheaded step-child. Enter the third party software developers. ImagePrint is perhaps the best known inkjet RIP and best of the bunch.
Presently, Epson drivers are much better products, and may now suffice for many users. There are still things that only a RIP can do, so carefully evaluate your needs as RIP software is veeery expensive.
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i used to only print with imageprint RIP....but with the new inks most of the BW printing issues are gone, the new canned profiles are much much better and i now use www.inkjetart.com for custom profiles for the papers i use....download the target, print it, mail it in, get the profile via email, costs 25$ absolutely worth it...they told me about it when i wanted to get a calibration device (for 1500$)...now i have had 4 profiles done, spent a lot less and all my future profiles will all be made with the latest and greatest devices....highly recommended....
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I got my 3800 this morning and installed it with no problem as a USB printer. Installing drivers and the other software was a piece off cake!
Going into CS2 and print my RGB, B&W test print, with a very familiar interface, ( come from a 2100), shows that in the 0 black area I get a 2,45 Dmax!! I used The ColorVision Spectrocolorimeter. I can’t see any metamerisme and the tonality is very smooth and neutral. I printed on Innova F-type and used the Epson Premium Luster Photo Paper setting and the B&W advanced setting with Tint to Normal since I did not had the time to do a custom profile.
So far I am happy as a …. ( what’s the English expression for Ultimate very happy ?)
I choose the Epson 3800 because of the weight, dimensions ( just a bit larger than my former 2100) and because my work is 75% B&W. I expected the 3800 with its K3 ink not to disappoint. Well so far it din’t!
Keep you posted on my findings.
Henk
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88627\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Well, you've made me happy too. I'm supposed to be getting mine the end of the week. The fact that you do so much b/w and are happy with it is good to hear---its one of the reasons to move up to the K3 printer from the 2200 (where I use QTR for monos). One of the things I'm hoping for is that I'll be able to tone my own as I please--as RGB---and print 'as is' so to speak (not using ABW where I will have to do some experimentation to get what I want--with no preview). As I understood it--though I could be misunderstanding him--Andrew Rodney believes that I will be able to do this--esp. with a good paper profile. Have you tried this---or just with ABW?
Diane
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Going into CS2 and print my RGB, B&W test print, with a very familiar interface, ( come from a 2100), shows that in the 0 black area I get a 2,45 Dmax!! I used The ColorVision Spectrocolorimeter. I can’t see any metamerisme and the tonality is very smooth and neutral. I printed on Innova F-type and used the Epson Premium Luster Photo Paper setting and the B&W advanced setting with Tint to Normal since I did not had the time to do a custom profile.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88627\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I've got some Innove Fiba F coming this week (and my 3800 shipped out on Friday). I am only familiar with the "NoColorAdjustment"/Profiles method of printing, and am not experienced when it comes to the using the features in the color controls side of the Epson driver itself. Care to elaborate in more detail on your B&W print settings, like media setting, and other color controls?
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One of the things I'm hoping for is that I'll be able to tone my own as I please--as RGB---and print 'as is' so to speak (not using ABW where I will have to do some experimentation to get what I want--with no preview). As I understood it--though I could be misunderstanding him--Andrew Rodney believes that I will be able to do this--esp. with a good paper profile. Have you tried this---or just with ABW?
Diane
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88646\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Your wish is answered
That is how I have printing B&W since I got my first K3 printer! I use my regular color paper profile and print it just like any other color image. If I use no toning, I get an excellent neutral continuous tone grayscale -- lovely! Alternatively I have built some toning actions and can easily warm/sepia or cool/selenium tone the B&W to taste, or even split tone them. And for the kicker, this works just as well on coated photo papers as it does on fine art papers.
In other words, we are essentially getting WYSIWYG B&W printing... Yes, life is good with K3 inks
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Your wish is answered :)
<snip>
In other words, we are essentially getting WYSIWYG B&W printing... Yes, life is good with K3 inks :lol:
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88662\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh...... Now I just can't wait for mine. I have a photo job waiting--monos, my decision as to neutral or toned, 16 x 20 or 16 x 24 (my last work for them I had to have printed on a 7600 )--and had to work with what ink/paper combo the printmaker chose. I'm excited to try it. Its definitely what I've been hoping for--though QTR is great---I still had experimentation to deal with with blending curves, ink density, etc.
Thank you Jack.
Diane
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Hey Jack- is it just me, or is does your lion avatar have one blue eye and one green eye?
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Hey Jack- is it just me, or is does your lion avatar have one blue eye and one green eye?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88696\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Yep -- One green and one blue.
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Just got mine ramped up today. Very easy!
1-Remove about 100 pieces of blue tape.
2-Install ink carts.
3-Turn on, printer charges heads.
4-Connect USB line, load driver CD.
5-Insert paper and press "print nozzle check".
6-Paper does not load because 101st piece of tape is still in feeder tray.
7-Remove last piece of tape.
8-Print nozzle check, run a cleaning cycle.
9-Print nozzle check.
10-Print my favorite test image from Andrew Rodney's site using supplied Epson profile for PLPP @1440.
11-Print comes out in record time with perfect grey neutrality and color.
12-Toss 1280 in the dumpster while shaking my head in disgust that I actually thought that my 1280 was a good printer.
Now onto some custom papers for B&W like Innova and Museo.
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Just got mine ramped up today. Very easy!
1-Remove about 100 pieces of blue tape.
2-Install ink carts.
3-Turn on, printer charges heads.
4-Connect USB line, load driver CD.
5-Insert paper and press "print nozzle check".
6-Paper does not load because 101st piece of tape is still in feeder tray.
7-Remove last piece of tape.
8-Print nozzle check, run a cleaning cycle.
9-Print nozzle check.
10-Print my favorite test image from Andrew Rodney's site using supplied Epson profile for PLPP @1440.
11-Print comes out in record time with perfect grey neutrality and color.
12-Toss 1280 in the dumpster while shaking my head in disgust that I actually thought that my 1280 was a good printer.
Now onto some custom papers for B&W like Innova and Museo.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=89295\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
You could tell us what you REALLY think LOL. I, too, have a 1280--but moved to a 2200 from that. I loved my 2200 (except for monos and used QTR) but when I saw the Epson b/w sample---I wished I had bought a 2400 earlier---then kicked myself because then i wouldn't be buying a 3800 now (mine is due early next week).
I will look out for that 101st piece of tape.
Diane
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.....I, too, have a 1280--but moved to a 2200 from that.....
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=89297\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I was at a seminar several years ago in Chicago put on by Jeff Schewe, Andrew Rodney, and John Paul Caponigro right when the 2200 hit. Almost bought one, but passed. Watched the 2400 come out, passed again. This one seemed too good to be true, but after just an hour, it seems that inkjet printing has really come of age with this baby.
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You could tell us what you REALLY think LOL. I, too, have a 1280--but moved to a 2200 from that. I loved my 2200 (except for monos and used QTR) but when I saw the Epson b/w sample---I wished I had bought a 2400 earlier---then kicked myself because then i wouldn't be buying a 3800 now (mine is due early next week).
I will look out for that 101st piece of tape.
Diane
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=89297\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I too have had a 2100(2200) for some years now. I have been using QTR with the UC inks for my moderate BW.
I just got my 3800 the other day, and just yesterday I managed to do some tests with BW. I used ABW printing on Ilford Smooth Gloss and Hahn. Fine Art Pearl. Wow! the difference was amazing. While the QTR prints had managed to contain the UC inks metamerism 99%, some bronzing and some gloss differential was still quite evident. Happy to report I got no sign of bronzing from the 3800 (absolutely none) and while I could still (very hardly) distinguish a slight amount of gloss dif. on the Ilford, I could see none on the FAP. Nice! Also no metamerism to speak of (magenta- green shifts under different illuminants). Checked this under tungsten, under Solux, under GTI D50 fluorescent, under household fluorescent, indirect daylight, even direct sunlight. None. Could see the expected warmer / colder hues depending on light but no magenta-green shifts.
Having said that, I didn't like at all the toning the ABW defaults would give me (looked too greenish to me) but I didn't have time to experiment with changing the settings. Also, I haven't tested normal color (with color profiles) BW printing on the 3800 yet.
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I've got some packs of 8.5 x 11 Innova FibaPrint F-Type Brilliant White Gloss and Crane Museo Silver Rag coming for some B&W tests. I'll try making some profiles with my GMB i1 Pro with Match 3 software and see what that baby will really do! The Museo is supposed to be run with PK ink, the Innova with PM ink.
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You also need to manually build and select a custom paper type for the thicker paper. You can build 10 presets via the LCD panel or using the "Remote Panel" where you set paper type and thickness, platten gap and custom align the head-gap to that specific paper -- a spiffy set of options for maximum print quality, especially considering the variables in different fine art papers.[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88137\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Please excuse the beginner's question.
I'm almost definitely getting one of these printers when they're released in Hong Kong later this month (as the 3850). I've waited a long time for a printer that can faithfully print the colours in my wildlife (mostly birds) photos.
My question. I purchased some fine art paper when I was in L.A. a month ago. The paper is not cheap! How do I go about discovering or calculating the best settings for my papers, and how do I do it without using more paper than necessary?
(and what is a platten gap?)
regards,
Gregory
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I've got some packs of 8.5 x 11 Innova FibaPrint F-Type Brilliant White Gloss and Crane Museo Silver Rag coming for some B&W tests. I'll try making some profiles with my GMB i1 Pro with Match 3 software and see what that baby will really do! The Museo is supposed to be run with PK ink, the Innova with PM ink.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=89394\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
If by "PM" you mean the matte black ink, then I think you're incorrect here. The Innova FibaPrint White Gloss paper is most definitely intended to be used with Photo Black (PK) ink. That is not to say that you cannot use MK ink, just that you most likely will not achieve deep blacks.
Eric
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If by "PM" you mean the matte black ink, then I think you're incorrect here. The Innova FibaPrint White Gloss paper is most definitely intended to be used with Photo Black (PK) ink. That is not to say that you cannot use MK ink, just that you most likely will not achieve deep blacks.
Eric
[{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a] (http://index.php?act=findpost&pid=89434\")
Acording to the info from the Innova folks, they recommend Matte Black Ink.
[a href=\"http://www.anwcrestwood.com/innova/innova_icc.cfm]http://www.anwcrestwood.com/innova/innova_icc.cfm[/url]
If there is other published data regarding use of Innova with Photo Black, I'm all ears. Don't want to have to switch between blacks anymore than needed!
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Acording to the info from the Innova folks, they recommend Matte Black Ink.
http://www.anwcrestwood.com/innova/innova_icc.cfm (http://www.anwcrestwood.com/innova/innova_icc.cfm)
If there is other published data regarding use of Innova with Photo Black, I'm all ears. Don't want to have to switch between blacks anymore than needed!
My understanding of the difference between Photo Black and Matte Black is that Matte Black is a darker ink because using matte stock with Photo Black ink does not result in the blacks being "black" enough, and if you use Matte Black ink on glossy stock, the ink will lay unevenly and unpredictably because it is to intense.
From Ink Jet Art's website:
"......if you had the Photo Black loaded and wanted to print on matte paper you got an image with less density and richness......."
[{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a] (http://index.php?act=findpost&pid=89437\")
Hi John, that site is referring to the older FibaPrint Ultrasmooth 280 matte paper by Innova, which is designed for Matte Black inks. The newer FibaPrint White Gloss F-Type is a different paper altogether, which takes Photo Black ink. Part of the confusion is that Innova has a lot of papers with the name FibaPrint in them, but they are not all the same. Here is Eric Kunsman's review over at BookSmartStudio, for more info:
[a href=\"http://www.booksmartstudio.com/services.php?section=85&a=33]http://www.booksmartstudio.com/services.php?section=85&a=33[/url]
Eric
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Eric-
Thanks!
What is the recommended media setting for Innova FibaPrint White Gloss F-Type on a 3800? The folks at Crane recommend Premium Lustre Photo Paper for Museo Silver Rag.
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Eric-
Thanks!
What is the recommended media setting for Innova FibaPrint White Gloss F-Type on a 3800? The folks at Crane recommend Premium Lustre Photo Paper for Museo Silver Rag.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=89450\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Unfortunately, I don't know! I don't actually have a 3800 myself. I'm hoping to upgrade at some point from my old 2200 to the 3800, but haven't done so yet. I think you'll have to experiment with using either Premium Luster, Premium Glossy, Premium Semi-Matte, or Premium Semi-Gloss. One way to make this reasonably economical (since the paper itself is pricey) is to print some small hue targets (say, 4 to a page, each with a different paper type setting) and compare them side by side.
If you go to Bill Atkinson's page, then go to the Color Profiles download, you'll see a set of Profile Test Images. In there you'll find a RGB Hues Target that may help you get an idea of which settings produce the deepest blacks and the most saturated colors.
Eric
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Eric-
Thanks!
What is the recommended media setting for Innova FibaPrint White Gloss F-Type on a 3800? The folks at Crane recommend Premium Lustre Photo Paper for Museo Silver Rag.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=89450\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I use Prem. luster as setting because I stiil had no time to de a custom profile and I am very pleased with the results. Further settings are: neutral end dark with High speed off.
I will have some more time to experiment, also with color,in the last week of the year. I will report on that.
Henk
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Your wish is answered
That is how I have printing B&W since I got my first K3 printer! I use my regular color paper profile and print it just like any other color image. If I use no toning, I get an excellent neutral continuous tone grayscale -- lovely! Alternatively I have built some toning actions and can easily warm/sepia or cool/selenium tone the B&W to taste, or even split tone them. And for the kicker, this works just as well on coated photo papers as it does on fine art papers.
In other words, we are essentially getting WYSIWYG B&W printing... Yes, life is good with K3 inks
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88662\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I wonder if anyone (Jack?) might know how to fix a problem I am having with printing BW on the 3800. I seem to get vertical banding throughout the image when its printed whether I print "color' or with ABW.
In CS2 for windows.
With color, I choose Print with preview and settings as follows:
Let PS determine colors
Pro38 EMP
Relative colorimetric
then under print properties I choose:
enhanced matte paper
color
then choose custom
select the advanced button
turn off high speed
choose Off (no color adjustment)
and then print
I get banding no matter what I seem to do.
Tried aligning the heads, no effect
what could the problem be?
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Well, I now get to answer my own question, but it reveals something I wouldn't have expected in a brand new printer I have had for two whole days.
I did a print head alignment on the 3800 from the printer control panel. Then I did an automatic nozzle check and the printer went through a long cycle of cleaning the nozzles. Put in a fresh sheet of paper and printed the same image and, voila!, no banding and everything looks great.
EXCEPT, I never would have expected to have to do all that- two days and only about 6 prints after I turned on the machine for the first time. My ink levels are already down to 75% and my maintenance cartridge is at 54%! The images look great but I'm not impressed with these other issues so far.
Jeff
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FWIW, obvious banding on an Epson printer almost always is an indication of a nozzle clog where micro-banding is usually a head alignment issue.
The fact that it happened on a new printer early on is probably not cause for alarm. If you continue to have problems, then I'd give a call to Epson service and get it looked at.
Cheers,
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FWIW, I had the same problem (but I hadn't made any prints yet). My nozzle checks and manual cleaning cycle failed, so I put it into auto nozzle check/clean. I didn't want to do that initially, afraid that the automated mode would use more ink, however ultimately it was the mode that worked. In retrospect, I wonder if the auto clean/check is smart and will only clean the nozzle that's clogged, but there's no way to tell.
My levels ended up at around the same place as yours, But after a bunch of letter size prints haven't moved appreciably. The reports are pretty cool. I wish they included how much ink is used in the cleaning cycles.
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. I wish they included how much ink is used in the cleaning cycles.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=89698\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
You can figure that out by printing the status and job history after the cleaning
cycle. It adds the ink used to clean to the last print you made. I've had mine
for about 5 days, been turning it off every night, when I turned it on yesterday
it did a long cleaning cycle on its own at start up. Checked the job history, it used
almost 16ml of ink for the cleaning cycle. Sure hope that doesn't happen often
as it will make it an expense printer to operate for the kind of volume I expect
to be printing.
Bill
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... been turning it off every night, when I turned it on yesterday
it did a long cleaning cycle on its own at start up. [a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=89707\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Then leave it turned on. It won't clean as often and power consumption while it's idle is insignificant.
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You can figure that out by printing the status and job history after the cleaning
cycle. It adds the ink used to clean to the last print you made. I've had mine
for about 5 days, been turning it off every night, when I turned it on yesterday
it did a long cleaning cycle on its own at start up. Checked the job history, it used
almost 16ml of ink for the cleaning cycle. Sure hope that doesn't happen often
as it will make it an expense printer to operate for the kind of volume I expect
to be printing.
Bill
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=89707\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I'm with you on that- we'll see what kind of ink it goes through compared to other printers but so far- still early days- it's not looking so good cost wise.
As for clogged nozzles, I'm not sure about leaving this printer on all the time however. I think I read somwhere that the head parks itself when the printer is turned off so as to prevent clogging. It may that leaving the printer turned on when not using it may in fact cause more clogging than otherwise.
I turned mine off again last night and on again late this afternoon and it didn't do a cleaning cycle so maybe there is some fuzzy logic built in to this printer that determines when to auto-clean. Not sure if anyone knows more....
Jeff
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I believe that one should turn Epson printers off when not in use. It will reduce occurences of clogging.
The Epson rep interviewed by Michael in a recent video interview said the same.
Canon recommend their printers to be left on all the time.
Epson and Canon use different ink head technology (piezzo vs. thermal).
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There was special mention of turning off the 3800 as the head cap is redesigned for a better seal. Now whether or not this is a lotta bunk just so Epson can sell more ink, we do not know until some of the printing gurus get under the hood of this baby.
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Just finished some basic testing, ran my favorite architectural shot with a dusky sky with subtle gradients. That files brings all but the most perfectly set up printers to their knees. My 3800 printed that file on PGPP fine, the sky looked fine with no profile banding, no microbanding, no feeder banding, etc. My initial observations are that compared to my trusty 1280, it has a slightly reduced gamut (So far, I have only run PLPP and PGPP, no art stocks yet), but it sure is a speed demon. A 13x19 @ 1440 is out in less than 5 minutes! I haven't even done any alignment, messed with feed rates, or platten stuff, just turned it on and printed. As I get into the third party papers, I will report back.
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This is what Epson told me when I emailed them last week onwhether I should leave on or turn off.
From a mechanical standpoint the positon of the Printhead whether the
printers at rest or powered off, as it pertains to the potential for
nozzles drying out makes no difference. I always recommend powering the
printer off to avoid potential issues with power surges. As with any
inkjet printer the longer you go without using the printer the more likely
you are to need head cleaning to achieve a high quality print. The only
real option you have to mitigate this issue is to print/clean the printer
on a regular basis like once a week.
Pete
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I've got some more 3800s in stock now, if anyone is still looking for one.
Thanks.
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As someone who has always used the Epson profiles with my 2400, and plan also to use with a 3800 making its way across country to my door, I'm interested in the custom profile you get from Inkjetart.com.
Tell me, once you get the profiles back from them, how do you make changes in how your printer is set up? Thanx!
i used to only print with imageprint RIP....but with the new inks most of the BW printing issues are gone, the new canned profiles are much much better and i now use www.inkjetart.com for custom profiles for the papers i use....download the target, print it, mail it in, get the profile via email, costs 25$ absolutely worth it...they told me about it when i wanted to get a calibration device (for 1500$)...now i have had 4 profiles done, spent a lot less and all my future profiles will all be made with the latest and greatest devices....highly recommended....
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88637\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
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This is what Epson told me when I emailed them last week onwhether I should leave on or turn off.
From a mechanical standpoint the positon of the Printhead whether the
printers at rest or powered off, as it pertains to the potential for
nozzles drying out makes no difference. I always recommend powering the
printer off to avoid potential issues with power surges. As with any
inkjet printer the longer you go without using the printer the more likely
you are to need head cleaning to achieve a high quality print. The only
real option you have to mitigate this issue is to print/clean the printer
on a regular basis like once a week.
Pete
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=89917\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Since I have heard so many different opinions on the leave it on turn it off thing
thought I would also email Epson and see if they were consistent with their recommendations
on this. I also asked if the auto cleaning cycle I mentioned earlier was normal.
Here is their reply:
"Mechanically speaking there is no difference how the print head rests
whether the machine is off or on the biggest factor in reducing required
cleanings is consistent use of the printer. The process is usually referred
to as a Priming cycle and is used to ensure ink is available in all
nozzles. The printer does not have a sensor in each nozzle to determine if
ink is there so as a preventative measure the engineers have designed the
printer to occasionally prime before prints, when powering on/off, and
occasionally during printing to cool the print head. These cycles are all
necessary to keep the printer running in optimal condition and cannot be
disabled. The alternative would be to always leave the printer on but over
time the printer would perform the same sort of cleaning as it does when
you turn the printer off. So in the end the same amount of ink is likely to
be expended in operation of the printer. The wide format printers are
designed for high volume printing and as such are at their most efficient
when used consistently."
Sounds like the same guy answered. So it doesn't matter if you leave it on or
off. Expect it to do and occasional auto cleaning cycle to the tune of about 16ml
of ink.
Occasional for me was after 5 days 20 8x10's and 30 4x6's . These cleaning cycles
will need to be factored in to your cost per print.
Bill
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Sounds like the same guy answered. So it doesn't matter if you leave it on or
off. Expect it to do and occasional auto cleaning cycle to the tune of about 16ml
of ink. :(
Occasional for me was after 5 days 20 8x10's and 30 4x6's . These cleaning cycles
will need to be factored in to your cost per print.
Bill
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=90115\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Bill, the other place a number of us heard to 'park' the printer (shut it down) was on the podcast that Michael had with one of the execs from Epson Canada--and he was pretty explicit about shutting it down as I recall--to 'seal' the nozzles. Interesting that EC and EUS have differing recommendations about this.
Diane
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Bill, the other place a number of us heard to 'park' the printer (shut it down) was on the podcast that Michael had with one of the execs from Epson Canada--and he was pretty explicit about shutting it down as I recall--to 'seal' the nozzles. Interesting that EC and EUS have differing recommendations about this.
Diane
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=90117\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Yes Diane I saw that, its one of the reasons i decided to contact epson myself.
I haven't decided which way I'll go yet, will probably try both ways for a while
and see if I can see any difference. Time will tell I guess. While I love the output
of this printer, it doesn't look like it is going to be very economical for my limited
volume of printing.
Bill
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Your wish is answered
That is how I have printing B&W since I got my first K3 printer! I use my regular color paper profile and print it just like any other color image. If I use no toning, I get an excellent neutral continuous tone grayscale -- lovely! Alternatively I have built some toning actions and can easily warm/sepia or cool/selenium tone the B&W to taste, or even split tone them. And for the kicker, this works just as well on coated photo papers as it does on fine art papers.
In other words, we are essentially getting WYSIWYG B&W printing... Yes, life is good with K3 inks
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88662\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
I had to come back to this thread and add my first impressions. I received the 3800 yesterday, set it up (easily), printed my first toned mono using RGB (WYSIWYG as Jack says) and I'm absolutely thrilled. No more RIP, no ABW either. I went on to print others plus color---and its spot on with just the Epson profiles. I used mostly Epson papers, but also IJA microceramic (as that's what I have coming in 17" roll) and the Premium luster profile was very good on it also. While the Epson luster paper is a bit warm, the IJA is white, but otherwise very very similar.
So--I just wanted to add---WYSIWYG is just about it as far as I'm concerned. I've tried matte papers (just printed a 13 x 19 with borders on Watercolor)--matte papers, at least the ones I've tried so far, are equally as good. I may end up getting some custom profiles done---but these are awfully good in a color managed system. Oh, and the printer is fast (esp. compared to the 2200), the 3 paper paths are easy to use----all's good in my world today *smile*.
Diane
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Your wish is answered
That is how I have printing B&W since I got my first K3 printer! I use my regular color paper profile and print it just like any other color image. If I use no toning, I get an excellent neutral continuous tone grayscale -- lovely! Alternatively I have built some toning actions and can easily warm/sepia or cool/selenium tone the B&W to taste, or even split tone them. And for the kicker, this works just as well on coated photo papers as it does on fine art papers.
In other words, we are essentially getting WYSIWYG B&W printing... Yes, life is good with K3 inks
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=88662\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Jack, thats good news. I was looking for the RIP QTR from Roy Harrington but it seems that this is not needed any more. I wil do some testing myself after Christmas.
Are you willing to share your actions with us?
Henk
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I just primted some B&W portraits (straight grayscale, but as AdobeRGB files, with no PS toning) on Innove FibaPrint F-Type Brilliant white. Amazing! Dead-on neutral gray, great d-max. I also showed it to an old B&W darkroom guy. He was amazed as well!
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Hehe... told you guys you finally get WYSIWYG B&W!
Henk: My toning actions are nothing special -- I just call up the photo filter on an adjustment layer over the base B&W image. I've tweaked color and opacity to my personal liking so I get a repeatable selenium and sepia toning layer, that's all they do, so these are easy to make custom for yourself to suit your style. I split tone using masks on each toning layer.
Cheers,
Jack
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I don't know if it helps, Diane, but Pictureline (www.pictureline.com) shows them in stock for about $1,295. I bought my iPF5000 from them and was very happy with the service. I worked with Ken who was quite helpful.
Good luck,
Dale
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Dale ,
I am new to everything. I want to print uo 60 B+W 10x15inch rag/watercolour prints scanned from 1960's era 35mm street scenes of grim Liverpool UK. Not sure what printer to buy Epson 4800 or 3800 or Canon 5000?
Any Thoughts?
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Dale ,
I am new to everything. I want to print uo 60 B+W 10x15inch rag/watercolour prints scanned from 1960's era 35mm street scenes of grim Liverpool UK. Not sure what printer to buy Epson 4800 or 3800 or Canon 5000?
Any Thoughts?
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It depends what you'll want to print after you print your 60 10x15s. If you don't want to print large and you'll print rarely, may be you should consider a smaller printer like the 2400. Or none at all, and have your 60 prints printed professionally.
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It depends what you'll want to print after you print your 60 10x15s. If you don't want to print large and you'll print rarely, may be you should consider a smaller printer like the 2400. Or none at all, and have your 60 prints printed professionally.
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Yes, if you aren't going to print anything larger than the 10 x 15's, the 13" printers do that easily on 13 x 19 paper--or even roll paper. There are 2 pigment 13" printers available now (the 2400 and HP 9180) and the Canon version is to be out in 2007 sometime. I would consider other things---like space, how often you will print, what sizes, if you want to use roll paper or sheet--and if you aren't going to print a good bit, if you are better off to outsource your printing. The larger printers will be more economical as far as ink usage, but--after the 60 prints, how often will you print--and what.
Saying all that, I am loving the ouput of the 3800---and I'm sure I would the Feel the same about the Canon iPf5000--and of course, the 4800---if you feel you 'need' the larger printer for whatever reason.
Diane
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Sounds like the same guy answered. So it doesn't matter if you leave it on or
off. Expect it to do and occasional auto cleaning cycle to the tune of about 16ml
of ink.
Occasional for me was after 5 days 20 8x10's and 30 4x6's . These cleaning cycles
will need to be factored in to your cost per print.
Bill
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For me it was also after five days, and only about 12 8x10s and maybe the same number of 4x6s. Also 16ml :-( Hopefully it's not a five day timer. My printer was left on for most of that time... I'm wondering if there's an "on-time" relationship to when the cleaning cycle runs. Time will tell.
Howie
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Hello all,
I've got some more 3800s in stock now. Please give me a call if you are having problems finding one.
Thanks.