Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Mirrorless Cameras => Topic started by: rollsman44 on March 14, 2017, 10:52:55 pm
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Just want to speculate on which one you would use for the Best IQ for Portraits, Travel and landscapes and social events.
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Hard call, however if you own Nikon glass a bit easier.
The 7200 has a wonderful sensor and Dynamic range, where as the X-T20 will most likely not be able to get to the same amount of DR with one shot. I pretty sure the Fuji will start at ISO 200 due to the X-trans array. You will also see better higher ISO performance on the Nikon especially if you push it.
Fuji is smaller, lighter, and if you add the 56mm 1.4 and 35mm F2.0 you have a nice set of lightweight and optically excellent lenses.
Paul Caldwell
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Just a minor quibble about Fuji ISO ratings.
Fuji ISO calibration is based on Standard Output Sensitivity (SOS) and very much in line with other current and previous Fujifilm APS-C camera models. Please note that cameras from Canon, Nikon and Sony use a more liberal ISO standard named Recommended Exposure Index (REI). Thus you cannot compare ISO ratings between Fuji and other cameras that use REI ISO values.
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Where did "Standard Output Sensitivity " come from?
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Where did "Standard Output Sensitivity " come from?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Film_speed#ISO_12232
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Just want to speculate on which one you would use for the Best IQ for Portraits, Travel and landscapes and social events.
Best? The Nikon will be far more versatile, giving you access to a much larger selection of lenses, flash, and accessories. Image quality will be superior in many situations, and getting the best results from raw files is easier. Shooting moving subjects with continuous autofocus will be faster and more accurate.
The Fuji system has fewer lenses available, especially long fast telephotos, though the basics are well covered and many of the lenses are simply fantastic. Flash is still an issue with the Fuji system, as is continuous AF.
All that said, I shoot about 90% of my work assignments and 100% of my personal work with a Fuji kit. The image quality of the Fuji is more than good enough for portraits, travel, and social events (and shooting events with fast primes and no flash makes me very happy). Landscapes are a bit trickier with the X-Trans Fuji sensor, but I have been getting good results.
In my experience I prefer shooting the Fuji with the smaller primes, and I can get a Fuji kit that covers a wide range of situations into a very small and light bag. This can be a significant advantage for travel, or even everyday work. But I do have the larger zooms and they are quite good. I don't feel at all constrained by the Fuji system unless I need to shoot a sports assignment or I need especially high resolution in one shot.
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I have a good friend with a Nikon D7200 while I have a Fuji X-T2. In most cases performance and features between the two are quite similar. We have found one area where the Fuji seems to stand out though. That is in manual focus. With the X-T2 focus peaking and digital split window are available to aid focus. We couldn't find these available anywhere in the manual for the D7200. Perhaps we missed something though.
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Long time ago I started with Fuji because of lack of DX lenses on Nikon APS-C. I don't think this changed much. There is a paucity of wide and normal/ short telephoto lenses for Nikon DX. For zooms let's say they are similar.
Image quality will likely be close enough not to worry about.
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Both systems will probably do the job.
Just be aware that if you put a full frame lens on a Nikon APS-C the image quality will likely go down, and if you are doing portraiture some of the zooms focus breathe. May or may not be an issue for you.
David
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Long time ago I started with Fuji because of lack of DX lenses on Nikon APS-C. I don't think this changed much. There is a paucity of wide and normal/ short telephoto lenses for Nikon DX. For zooms let's say they are similar.
Image quality will likely be close enough not to worry about.
Still is like this. Prime DX lenses are right now just 4 from Nikon: the 10.5mm fisheye, two macros and the 35mm 1.8.
Thankfully Sigma stepped up their game and you can get the 18-35mm 1.8, 50-100mm 1.8 and 30mm 1.4 Art. I also recommend the 10-20mm 4-5.6 (sharper than the 3.5 version) for ultrawide goodness.
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Both systems will probably do the job.
Just be aware that if you put a full frame lens on a Nikon APS-C the image quality will likely go down, ..
Could you elaborate why the image quality would go down? A full frame lens on an APS-C should improve vignetting, distortion, chromatic aberration and edge sharpness. The denser pixels on APS-C may require a better lens, but I guess not all lenses would have problems.
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Still is like this. Prime DX lenses are right now just 4 from Nikon: the 10.5mm fisheye, two macros and the 35mm 1.8.
Thankfully Sigma stepped up their game and you can get the 18-35mm 1.8, 50-100mm 1.8 and 30mm 1.4 Art. I also recommend the 10-20mm 4-5.6 (sharper than the 3.5 version) for ultrawide goodness.
I was thinking of Sigma when I said the zooms are similar. I also used and still have the Sigma 8-16.
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I pretty sure the Fuji will start at ISO 200 due to the X-trans array.
this has nothing to do w/ x-trans CFA color layout and everything to do with Sony Semi as sensor manufacturer and Fuji's decision how to implement it in the camera regardless of CFA color layout... Sony's current 24mp ASP-C sensor can allow for camera's manufacturer to implement a base ISO @ nominal /as dialed on camera/ ISO100 which will be a stop from nominal ISO200 on the same camera ( for example = http://photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm#Sony%20ILCE-6300 )... that was even the case with 16mp Sony sensors before ( for example = http://photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm#Nikon%20D7000 )...
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I was thinking of Sigma when I said the zooms are similar. I also used and still have the Sigma 8-16.
Ah yes, I was considering it a couple years ago but got a great deal on a 10-20 (open box) for half the retail price!
Regarding quality from full frame lenses, I use them all the time on APS-C because I really don't have much of a choice in some focal lengths. As soon as I stop them down enough to get the highest sharpness possible I haven't seen a single issue regarding IQ. Even a lens from 1975 can resolve way more than my sensors do (http://forum.luminous-landscape.com/index.php?topic=75783.msg962022#msg962022) (Nikkor 85mm f/1.8K AI modified).