The irony is that in a digital sensor, you have, in effect, a -REAL- accurate (and real expensive) light measuring device since the whole sensor is a photon counter...
The way I see it, a half push of the shutter release could lock onto both auto-focus while at the same time shooting a non-recorded sensor capture that would evaluate every pixel in the capture and choose the optimal real capture exposure. A function button could lock the exposure setting until you hit the button again to release and re-meter...
This would be particularly useful to have the camera TELL YOU the scene dynamic range (assuming the camera makers would finally get real and adopt a standard). Then you could dial in a compensation factor based upon whether you want to bias the exposure to the shadows or the highlights-in the case where the scene is beyond the dynamic range.
Unfortunately, camera makers still seem to want to put in a separate light measuring device-a meter-when the real light measuring device should be the sensor itself.
Just a thought...
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It can help to know your sensor range. My 1DsMII for example goes up to + 2 2/3 stop and can recover 1 more stop (most of the time) in ACR making my usable range to + 3 2/3 of a given tone spot metered to normal exposure.
I carry a spot meter because of the inaccuracy of the histogram. In many shot it won't matter much, but in high contrast scenes you just need the last bit of usable range you can get to expose correctly to the right, to have nice clean shadows.
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Unfortunately, camera makers still seem to want to put in a separate light measuring device-a meter-when the real light measuring device should be the sensor itself.
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A RAW histogram would be trivially simple to implement. You wouldn't need to do any Bayer interpolation, white balance adjustments, or any color processing whatsoever.
What's not to like?
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The raw histogram shows that no channel is blown, but is indeed hard to interpret just like Bruce said it would be. Comments are welcome.
The problem, however, is that most RAW converters don't understand exposing to the right. Setting the Exposure slider in ACR to -2, for example, does not necessarily divide the RAW data by 4, as you'd expect. It may do that to the midtones, but the highlights might be divided by quite less, distorting the transfer curve of RAW to RGB.
Exposing to the right is supposed to take advantage of the fact that most of the bits in a RAW file are dedicated to the highlights... Which is unfortunate cause sensors don't really capture that many details in highlights in the first place, no matter how many bits are dedicated to them.
What are you basing that on?If sensors were the best at capturing highlights up to the clipping point you'd be able to pull almost infinite high quality details out of the highlights just before they clip. I'm not an engeneer but it is definitely not what I can observe. The bits are there, the details are not.
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If sensors were the best at capturing highlights up to the clipping point you'd be able to pull almost infinite high quality details out of the highlights just before they clip. I'm not an engeneer but it is definitely not what I can observe. The bits are there, the details are not.
Almost infinite? I think you mean, 'the maximum detail the system can deliver in the shooting circumstances', don't you?
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I was objecting to a description of contemporary sensors as exceptionally adapt at capturing extreme highlight details. Personally I think the sensors are not good at that whatsoever. So you seem to agree with me.This is a misrepresentation of the technique as described here on the LL and on other sites. I can see why you object to following a technique which is obviously in error, but it isn't ETTR you're describing.
Still - the point of ETTR is overexposing as much as possible so you get the most bits possible dedicated to your image information. Not to measure the extreme highlights and push everything else to the left.
The simple lesson to be learned from this is to bias your exposures so that the histogram is snugged up to the right, but not to the point that the highlights are blown. This can usually be seen by the flashing alert on most camera review screens. Just back off so that the flashing stops.
Now of course when you look at the RAW file in your favourite RAW processing software, like Camera RAW, the image will likely appear to be too light. That's OK. Just use the available sliders to change the brightness level and contrast so that the data is spread out appropriately and the image looks "right". This will accomplish a number of things. The first is that it will maximize the signal to noise ratio. The second is that it will minimize the posterization and noise that potentially occurs in the darker regions of the image.
This is a misrepresentation of the technique as described here on the LL and on other sites. I can see why you object to following a technique which is obviously in error, but it isn't ETTR you're describing.
It's not about detail, it's about sensor noise and artifacts, and you definitely shouldn't blow the highlights*:
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It's just a neutral white. ...
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I was objecting to a description of contemporary sensors as exceptionally adapt at capturing extreme highlight details. Personally I think the sensors are not good at that whatsoever. So you seem to agree with me.
If sensors were the best at capturing highlights up to the clipping point you'd be able to pull almost infinite high quality details out of the highlights just before they clip. I'm not an engeneer but it is definitely not what I can observe. The bits are there, the details are not.
"Just don't blow the highlights" exposure is really opposite to trying to shift everything to the right.
It's not the opposite; it's a different paradigm. It's a matter of what it is that you want to put all the way to the right.
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Which means "blown" in colloquial English.
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But what about the centre of the sun? That white spot is bigger than a mere specral highlight. Whatever the setting in ACR, it's 255,255,255, even with -4EC, which is okay by me. I'd expect the centre of the sun to be a blown highlight, but I was curious as to what a linear conversion would reveal and was very surprised to find that even that centre white spot does not seem to be blown. It's just a neutral white. The image appears to be actually underexposed by about 1/4 of a stop. That's close enough for me .
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Ray,
So that we can evaluate your findings, what software did you use for the linear conversion, and what settings did you use. Was white balance applied? What do you mean by linear conversion?
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Bill,
I used the linear conversion option in BreezeBrowser. WB as shot would have been applied. All other settings at default. Not accurate enough?
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In the linear conversion, the centre of the sun appears to be a neutral pale grey with values of 214,214,214,
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I downloaded the trial version of BreezeBrowserPro. Obviously, I don't know the program, but I can not easily get it to display the actual raw file with no white balance, tone curve, or levels applied. My overexposed color checker looks overexposed in the preview but normally exposed in the conversiion.
I can use manual levels in postprocessing, but I am unable to determine how to display the actual data numbers in the raw file. Personally, I prefer DCRaw for this purpose. Have you tried it?
Personally, I prefer DCRaw for this purpose. Have you tried it?Could you tell us your option settings for linear conversion?
But what about the centre of the sun? That white spot is bigger than a mere specral highlight. Whatever the setting in ACR, it's 255,255,255, even with -4EC, which is okay by me. I'd expect the centre of the sun to be a blown highlight, but I was curious as to what a linear conversion would reveal and was very surprised to find that even that centre white spot does not seem to be blown. It's just a neutral white. The image appears to be actually underexposed by about 1/4 of a stop. That's close enough for me .
[attachment=601:attachment]
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Could you tell us your option settings for linear conversion?
I am experimetning with
-v -3 -r 1 1 1 1
The problem with this set is, that it's still scaled, you can't tell for sure, if a channel is blown or not. Should I include
-o 0
to prevent converting it into sRGB, and thus leave the RGB values as they are? Could be a good idea.
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I find it difficult to believe that values of 255 in ACR with -4EC do not represent blown channels.
Well - reread the article. Pay extra attention to the rationale for the technique. It's about bits dedicated to the image data.And what has "bits dedicated to the image data" got do do with detail?
The latest version of CDRaw has a -D switch, which causes totally raw output with no scaling. There is no demosaicing and the output is gray scale 0..4095. If you want RGB output, the above switches with -o 0 should do the trick.Bill,
The output is scaled by a factor of 16 to convert from 0..4095 (12 bit) to 0..65535 for display at 16 bits. The 12 bit output is very dark in Photoshop 15+1 display (0..32768).Oh, yes, thanks for this hint. I was confused, since the values shifted considerably due to the sRGB conversion. The -o 0 or -m otpion solved the problem.
Well - reread the article. Pay extra attention to the rationale for the technique. It's about bits dedicated to the image data.
It's an overexposure technique geared towards heavy post-processing that benefits from extra bits dedicated to image information, not a guide to correct exposure.
Oh. Then it's not blown Sorry for my remark.
I obviously assumed that "white" meant all 255s.
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At base ISO most digital cameras set the gain so that sensor saturation results in a data number near full scale in the analog to digital converter. For example, with my Nikon D200, sensor saturation results in RGB values of 254, 249 and 253 expressed as 8 bits and 4064, 3984, and 4048 in 12 bits as determined by conversion with DCRaw with demosaicing and conversion to an RGB image. In this case, clipping occurs in the sensor. Full scale of 4095 is not reached at base ISO, but AD overflow with a maximum data numberof 4095 would occur at higher ISOs and the clipping would be in the AD converter at 4095.
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Bill,
To sum it up, I recommend the following set for linear unbiased conversion:
dcraw.exe -3 -m -r 1 1 1 1 {file name}
Any comments?
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All 214/214/214 over an area does indicate clipping; something was clipped somewhere in the process, and then darkened in the final output.
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Yes, I think those switches are fine for our purpose, but personally I use the -H 1 option (same as -n), since I do not want any clipping.But if you have some clipping, your color values in the histogram are corrupt due to pink tinting introduced with the -n or -H option activated.
In testing with a heavily overexposed Macbeth CC, I saw little, if any, difference between -H 1 and -H 0 switches when using multipliers of 1 and raw output (-o 0)There is no difference, since any -r setting overwrites any -a, -w or -H (and thus -n) settings. That's what I tried to explain: With -a, -w and -H dcraw set the multipliers to a certain value. But if you set the -r option, those switches are useless, since the -r option now sets the multipliers. So any set like
I then converted the same files but to sRGB (-o 1) and "as shot" white balance (-w) with and without the highlight clipping (-H 0 and -H 1). Here there is a big difference. Also, the multipliers are different. I think the attachments are self explanatory.Here, something is obviously wrong. Your cmd screenshot shows, that you processed two different images, not the same with different settings. Again please check the issue with the -r switch in combination with -w or -H.
But if you have some clipping, your color values in the histogram are corrupt due to pink tinting introduced with the -n or -H option activated.
There is no difference, since any -r setting overwrites any -a, -w or -H (and thus -n) settings. That's what I tried to explain: With -a, -w and -H dcraw set the multipliers to a certain value. But if you set the -r option, those switches are useless, since the -r option now sets the multipliers. So any set like
-n -r 1 1 1 1
or
-H 0 -r 1 1 1 1
or
-w -r 1 1 1 1
are redundand, since -r is stronger than the others.
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Here, something is obviously wrong. Your cmd screenshot shows, that you processed two different images, not the same with different settings. Again please check the issue with the -r switch in combination with -w or -H.
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All 214/214/214 over an area does indicate clipping; something was clipped somewhere in the process, and then darkened in the final output.
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Having experimented with a few conversions using BB's linear mode, I can see no advantage whatsoever in linear conversion. ACR and RSP seem to do at least an equal job of retaining highlight detail, if not slightly better, and without the hassle of devising and applying an appropriate tone curve.
However, I was curious as to how ACR, RSP and BB's linear mode would handle these partially blown highlights. RSP actually seems to produce the most pleasing result. ACR seems to produce patches of almost neutral grey, perhaps due to greater contrast. BB's linear conversion seems to recover less highlight detail in general. (A word of warning: those of a nervous disposition should not click on 'enlarge').
Dave Coffin, the author of DCraw, seems to think that ACR attempts to reconstruct lost highlight detail. That's the impression I also get if I assume that BB's linear conversion mode is providing the true picture.
All D60 images, BTW.
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However, I was curious as to how ACR, RSP and BB's linear mode would handle these partially blown highlights. RSP actually seems to produce the most pleasing result. ACR seems to produce patches of almost neutral grey, perhaps due to greater contrast.I see something different. RSP is rendering the clipped colors to grey. ACR is trying to keep a color and tints some areas in a fleshy pink tone, which are neutral in the RSP picture. Then there's a sudden jump to neutral grey patches in some small spots, where apparently the clipping reached a level, which didn't allow ACR to reconstruct any color. This is a known behavior of ACR. But AFAIK it does a better job in reconstructing highlights than any other raw converter.
Dave Coffin, the author of DCraw, seems to think that ACR attempts to reconstruct lost highlight detail.And this is obviously the case. I just tested out the limits of my Minolta A2 und compared ACR and dcraw's highlight recovery abilities extensivly. My target was the white wall of a house, lit by cloudy sky. I bracketed in 1/3 f stops from +1.7 EV up to +4.0 EV. First, I zoomed to the wall to get an white only frame for using dcraw's capability of analysing a picture and setting the right multipliers (option -a). Using these multipliers, I converted the bracketed shots. The last one with good highlight detail was the +2.7 EV exposure. The next exposure (+3.0 EV) suffered completely blown sections of the white wall. A linear conversion (-r 1 1 1 1 -m) showed the problem: While the red and blue channel contained good details, the green channel was completely blown. I was not able to produce any acceptable conversion - even not using the -H [2..9] option, which is supposed to reconstruct the highlights. All it did, was to introduce a massive pink cast. Looking at the channels, it turned out, that the green channel was simply filled with a way too dark shade of grey (R had an average of 168, B of 117 and G was filled with plain 109). So, what should be white wall with fine detail (rough plaster) got a dirty pink wall with greenish shadows.
So, recovering highlights, ACR wins hands down. It is possible, to get all information out of the Raw file with dcraw using a linear conversion, but the image has a strong color cast then, and I wasn't able to balance the colors.
In terms of resolving of fine detail, dcraw wins by a small margin. If you have some very very fine detail in the picture, as you find it with fabrics, dcraw has an edge, a small one.
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Thanks, bjanes and Dennis for your response. I tend to agree with Dennis that ACR is (some how) able to extract or reconstruct more color detail in blown highlights. I'm not sure if Capture One is able to better these results, but ACR's reconstruction is mostly credible, although the cyan shift in a blown blue sky could be better. (Or maybe not. What do I know!)
I was recently looking at some rain forest shots with sunlight streaming through. This is a very high DR situation. Tree trunks with direct sunlight are likely to be blown, or the shadows are likely to be very noisy, depending on choice of shutter speed.
In terms of detail from the luminous perspective, there's little difference between RSP and ACR. Howver, with a 'daylight' WB, the ACR conversion brings out the green of the moss on the trunk, which I know was there. I've failed to get RSP to produce that credible green.
My impression is, that RSP produces more detail than ACR.
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When dealing with very high DR situations, one should not overlook the possibility of doing a double conversion
Bill,
I use this technique quite often but not to recover highlight detail, which one can do with a single conversion and a negative EC, but to reduce noise and improve image quality in the shadows. For example, I'll often blend 2 conversions, one of which has a -2EC setting and the other a +2EC. However, the improvements are fairly marginal and this technique is no substitute for 2 separate exposures.
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I've always felt that the fact that people need to do this, to get results, is only a reflection on the primitive state of RAW converters or the post-processing software. There is absolutely no reason why a 16-bit TIFF can't carry all the DR of the RAW file. The amount of shadow DR potential in a 16-bit TIFF gamma-adjusted is astronomical, compared to what is in a RAW file, and a linear 16-bit TIFF (a full conversion but without tone re-mapping) is sufficient.
I've always felt that the fact that people need to do this, to get results, is only a reflection on the primitive state of RAW converters or the post-processing software. There is absolutely no reason why a 16-bit TIFF can't carry all the DR of the RAW file.You're right, but a 16bit TIFF is much bigger than a Raw file. Further, you have already interpolated RGB triples in a TIFF, so the real deal is still the raw format. It's the smallest file, containing the most information.
When dealing with very high DR situations, one should not overlook the possibility of doing a double conversion, one for highlights and another for shadows, and then blending them digitally.Yes, if the raw converter is able to produce a good highlight conversion.
Yes, if the raw converter is able to produce a good highlight conversion.
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I don't see the dual conversion method relating directly to recovering highlights.For the dual conversion method, you need one conversion with good highlights, right? See my picture above. With dcraw, there's not much in the highlights worth a dual conversion.
For the dual conversion method, you need one conversion with good highlights, right? [a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=67420\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
.... The problem is, after applying the negative EC to recover highlights (-2 EC or whatever), it's then difficult to recover the vibrancy and general tonality of the lower mid-tones and shadows from the converted TIF, even if it's in 16 bit.
Dual conversion is the best technique I happen to know which can improve the tonality of the darker parts of an image with recovered highlights.
So it seems that all ‘bit information’ silently lies in said ‘virgin conversion’, which can look quite dark at first. Things just have to be pulled-out, while preventing any damage ofthe highlights.
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I need one conversion with good highlightsThat's, what I am saying. The quality of the highlights depends on the raw conversion software, period.
Everything referring to ACR, ProPhoto RGB @ 16 bit.Of course, that's true. There's is no loss in tonalities converting a 12 bit raw into a linear 16 bit .psd file, especially, if you do not convert the gamut. If this is the goal, dcraw is your tool.
...
So it seems that all ‘bit information’ silently lies in said ‘virgin conversion’, which can look quite dark at first.
Whenever I sit down at my computer to process some images, I have a choice of spending the time learning about Photoshop, or processing my images. I have that choice because I'm an amateur, but I generally prefer to spend the time processing my images with the few trusted techniques I'm familiar with.
I only wish that the 20D's metering system wouldn't overexpose so often (maybe I need to get the meter cleaned up ...).
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Well, I can't let this be. ...Seems to be the same with me .
Seems to be the same with me .
Ray,
IF I may add a proposal … with all humility; being well aware that the following schematic approach can’t be ideal for every scene / image:
/> In ACR, all tonal controls: Exposure, Shadows, Brightness and Contrast are initially set to 0 (- zero -; curve tab linear).
/> Alt/click on the Exposure slider, move it left or right, to find this sweet spot of maximum Exposure which does not produce any relevant additional clipping. I mean, some pixel of the sky seem to be already irrevocably clipped and obviously can’t be recovered. So the task is to find the max Exposure setting which does not *significantly* enlarge these areas.
Admittedly, this step is a little bit a matter of feeling and in general the main ‘rule’ is not to clip any textured highlights. Most typically this ends in a +/- 0.75EC range, but that's of course just a my 'single'-experience.
/> Set the Shadows slider somewhere reasonably towards the commencement of the histogram. Leave Brightness & Contrast at zero. Click OK to process the file from ACR to Photoshop (ProPhoto RGB, 16 bit).
The following three steps can be easily recorded as an Action:
/> Ctrl/click on the RGB composite channel to select everything visible
/> Ctrl + Shift + I to invert the selection
/> Add a Curves’ adjust layer (80% Opacity and Normal blend mode) which then will carry the inverted selection as a layer mask. The curve itself is a quite special one; it is defined by the following 6 anchor points for Input/Output = 31/40, 56/78, 83/124, 114/172, 147/212 and 180/240.
Then, manually operated again:
/> Alt/click on the layer mask
/> Apply an appropriate Theshold to cover & protect only the brightest regions by pure black, while the rest of the mask gets white.
/> Apply a crude Gaussian Blur of some pixel width (maybe 10 or so)
/> Change back to normal view to fine-tune Opacity
Frankly, I’m using this technique since some weeks, it’s simple in essence and I’m surprised how often it works without further effort (referring to respective ‘HDR’ cases which can’t be adequately treated by the ACR global controls only). So at the risk that it doesn’t work here and it’s finally me looking – I’d like to invite you to give it a try.
Peter
--
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Add a Curves’ adjust layer (80% Opacity and Normal blend mode) which then will carry the inverted selection as a layer mask. The curve itself is a quite special one; it is defined by the following 6 anchor points for Input/Output = 31/40, 56/78, 83/124, 114/172, 147/212 and 180/240.
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Just to get things into perspective, here's the monitor image with no proof colors, but same adjustments. Satuaration intent seems to be closer to the 'non-proof color' image to my eyes.Ray,
[attachment=674:attachment]
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Out of interest, at which settings did you finally arrive in ACR and in Photoshop?
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I wouldn't say this is the final image. There's a slight blocking of shadows in the foreground which can be avoided. It's a good image to play around with though. I'm not keen on cropping it but I wish I could soften the abruptness of the blown part of the sky.Ray,
But what about the centre of the sun? That white spot is bigger than a mere specral highlight. Whatever the setting in ACR, it's 255,255,255, even with -4EC, which is okay by me. I'd expect the centre of the sun to be a blown highlight, but I was curious as to what a linear conversion would reveal and was very surprised to find that even that centre white spot does not seem to be blown. It's just a neutral white. The image appears to be actually underexposed by about 1/4 of a stop. That's close enough for me .
[attachment=601:attachment]
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Old but interesting post. I wonder if the sun in Ray's linear histogram is really not blown in any channel. The histograms look blown to me (see that little peak right in the end of the histogram line), but this does not happens in the end of the histogram as level values seem to have been corrected afterwards by some scaling (probably WB).
This happens sometimes if a RAW developer with less than 1.0 multipliers for the WB is used (like DCRAW for instance).
Another issue: did you know that scaling from 12-bit RAW to 16-bit in DCRAW uses a slightly greater than 16.0 multiplier?. Maybe this happens only on Canon cameras, but Dave Coffin confirmed this to me as I saw 16-bit histograms with peaks not equally spaced in 16 levels but a bit more (~17 let's say). That means (at least Canon cameras) don't make use of the full 12-bit: 0..4095 range.
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